Pavlova by Payot c1976

"Pavlova" by Payot was a fragrance launched in 1976. It's named after the Russian prima ballerina Anna Pavlova. The perfume is known for its elegant and delicate floral scent, capturing the essence of grace and femininity associated with the world of ballet. 

Pavlova, a fragrance named after the Russian Prima Ballerina, Anna Pavlova, was introduced by ITT's Payot Division at fine department stores throughout the United States. ITT Payot was one of 20 International Telephone and Telegraph companies with operations and services in Pennsylvania. They acquired the Payot Division and decided to launch the fragrance in 1977.

"It is with the greatest pleasure that Payot introduces a fragrance created in honor of the grace and beauty of the great prima ballerina - Pavlova," announced Gerard Semhon, president of ITT's Payot Division. A fragrance legend in its own time. Pavlova is a lush blending of tuberose and night blooming jasmine, heady hyacinth and the delicate petals of rose.

The Pavlova fragrance is a formula similar to the one created in 1922 by Dr. Nadine Payot, a close friend of Anna Pavlova and world-famous director and founder of Payot Institut de Beaute, with branches in twelve countries. Legend has it that Dr. Payot was urged to go into the face treatment business by Pavlova, for whom she had concocted special creams during the 1920s. "A woman should think of her face and body as her most precious possessions. She should protect and care for and learn about her skin, as if it were an irreplaceable treasure," said Dr. Payot.

The narrative surrounding Pavlova by Payot is rich with history and sentiment. Gerard Semhon's announcement captures the essence of the fragrance's inspiration—Anna Pavlova's grace and beauty—as well as its significance as a timeless legend in the world of perfumery.

The description of the fragrance itself, with its blend of tuberose, night-blooming jasmine, hyacinth, and rose, evokes an image of elegance and femininity. It's fascinating to learn that the formula for Pavlova is similar to one created by Dr. Nadine Payot, a close friend of Anna Pavlova and a renowned figure in skincare and beauty. The connection between Pavlova and Dr. Payot's face treatment business, inspired by Pavlova herself, adds another layer of depth to the fragrance's story, emphasizing the importance of caring for one's skin as a cherished asset.

Overall, Pavlova by Payot seems to be more than just a fragrance; it's a tribute to friendship, beauty, and the enduring legacy of Anna Pavlova.

The collaboration between Pavlova and Les Grands Ballets Canadiens in its introduction to Canada in 1978 adds a captivating dimension to the fragrance's launch. Distributing 3,000 samples of Pavlova to the audience of Les Grands Ballets Canadiens demonstrates a thoughtful connection between the fragrance and the world of ballet, further emphasizing its inspiration from Anna Pavlova and her legacy as a prima ballerina.

This partnership not only highlights the cultural resonance of the fragrance but also serves as a creative way to engage with audiences who appreciate the artistry and elegance associated with ballet. It's a wonderful example of how fragrance can intersect with various forms of artistic expression to create a memorable and immersive experience for consumers.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Pavlova by Payot is classified as a lush floral fragrance for women. A fascinating fragrance reminiscent of the early 1900s and Twenties era perfumes.

• Top notes: Dutch hyacinth, Persian galbanum, Moroccan mandarin orange, African blackcurrant bud, Calabrian bergamot, raspberry and Mexican grapefruit
• Middle notes: Florentine orris, Dutch narcissus, orchid, Bulgarian rose, Indian tuberose, Grasse jasmine, Sicilian neroli, Manila ylang-ylang and Spanish geranium
• Base notes: Ethiopian civet, Canadian castoreum, Lebanese cedar, Siamese benzoin, Mysore sandalwood, Tonkin musk, Madagascar vanilla, Tyrolean oakmoss, ambergris and Haitian vetiver

Scent Profile:

Pavlova by Payot is a fragrance steeped in the elegance and romance of early 20th-century perfumery, evoking the luxurious scents of the Belle Époque and the vibrant 1920s. It unfolds as a symphony of rare and precious ingredients sourced from around the world, each contributing a distinctive olfactory facet that transforms on the skin like a finely choreographed ballet—perhaps a nod to its namesake, the legendary Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova.

The opening is a luminous bouquet of floral and citrus notes, where Dutch hyacinth unfurls its crisp, green, and subtly spicy aroma, reminiscent of early spring mornings. Its piercing freshness is amplified by the bittersweet, resinous depth of Persian galbanum, which adds a verdant, slightly earthy bite. Moroccan mandarin orange introduces a honeyed citrus brightness, its tangy sweetness mingling with the sharp, slightly sulfurous nuance of African blackcurrant bud, known for its fruity yet intensely green facets. The zest of Calabrian bergamot, with its uniquely floral and slightly peppery citrus aroma, melds with the tart vibrancy of Mexican grapefruit, while the ripe, sun-warmed juiciness of raspberry adds a playful, almost mouthwatering sweetness to the composition.

As the heart unfolds, the fragrance blooms into an opulent floral arrangement, dominated by the powdery, violet-like richness of Florentine orris, one of the most prized perfumery ingredients, lending a velvety texture and soft, woody elegance. The narcotic intensity of Dutch narcissus, with its heady, slightly animalic undertones, contrasts beautifully with the creamy, exotic sweetness of orchid. 

Bulgarian rose, regarded as the finest in the world, imparts a deep, honeyed warmth, its petals unfolding with a touch of fruitiness and spice. Indian tuberose, intensely floral with a buttery, almost carnal sensuality, intertwines with the luminous radiance of Grasse jasmine, a symbol of French haute parfumerie. The crisp, citrusy green bite of Spanish geranium adds a balancing freshness, while Sicilian neroli, distilled from the bitter orange blossom, brings a bright, effervescent sweetness. The composition is rounded by the golden, sultry embrace of Manila ylang-ylang, whose intoxicatingly rich, almost banana-like floralcy deepens the heart’s opulent complexity.

The base is a masterpiece of warmth and sensuality, where rare animalic and resinous elements create a deeply lingering aura. Ethiopian civet, known for its musky, leathery intensity, intertwines with the smoky, slightly tar-like depth of Canadian castoreum, evoking the luxurious sensuality of vintage perfumes. The stately presence of Lebanese cedar lends a dry, resinous woodiness, while the balsamic sweetness of Siamese benzoin enhances the composition with a warm, vanilla-like depth. 

The creamy, almost sacred scent of Mysore sandalwood, revered for its unparalleled smoothness, adds a meditative richness. Tonkin musk, legendary for its warm, velvety sensuality, fuses with the marine, sunlit smoothness of ambergris, creating a soft yet radiant finish. Madagascar vanilla, with its deep, creamy, and slightly spicy warmth, lingers alongside the earthy, smoky green bite of Haitian vetiver, while Tyrolean oakmoss provides a damp, forest-like mossiness that ties the fragrance back to the grandeur of classic chypres.

Pavlova is a fragrance of contrasts—bright yet deep, floral yet animalic, fresh yet opulently rich. It is a scent that evokes the refined glamour of a bygone era, a fragrant ballet that pirouettes between delicate and powerful, soft and commanding.

Bottles:

The presentation of Pavlova by Payot is truly exquisite, with each detail reflecting the elegance and sophistication of the fragrance itself.

• One-Ounce Parfum: The one-ounce parfum is housed in a lavish black lacquered box, reminiscent of the famed Russian enamel boxes from the Palekh region. Its interior is lined with pink satin, adding a touch of luxury to the packaging. This presentation, retailing for $70, showcases the prestige and allure of Pavlova.

• 0.25 oz Purse Spray: The purse spray of parfum is presented in a hand-painted music box that plays Tchaikovsky's "Swan Lake." This enchanting presentation doubles as a jewel box, with its interior lined with pink velvet. Available for $12.50 with a purchase of $12.50 or more of Eau de Toilette, this offering combines musical delight with visual charm, offering a delightful experience for consumers.

• Pink Dusting Powder: The pink dusting powder, accompanied by a swan's down puff, is elegantly packaged in a black porcelain urn adorned with delicate flowers. This sophisticated presentation adds a touch of refinement to the ritual of applying powder, enhancing the sensory experience of using Pavlova.

• Pavlova Potpourri: Introduced in 1980, the Pavlova Potpourri offers a unique and charming way to enjoy the fragrance. Delicately wrapped in a lace handkerchief and encased in a hand-painted box, this presentation includes a vial of Pavlova for refreshing, allowing consumers to infuse their surroundings with the scent of Pavlova in a subtle and elegant manner.

Altogether, the packaging and presentation of Pavlova reflect the fragrance's association with grace, beauty, and luxury, providing consumers with a delightful sensory experience from the moment they encounter the product.

Pavlova was available in fine department stores in the following:

• 0.25 oz Parfum (retailed for $25, raised to $35 in 1980)
• 0.50 oz Parfum (retailed for $40, raised to $55 in 1980)
• 1 oz Parfum (retailed for $70, raised to $110 in 1981)

• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (retailed for $12.50, raised to $19.00 in 1980)
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash (retailed for $22.00)

• 1 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray (retailed for $11.00 in 1981)
• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray (retailed for $12.50)
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray (retailed for $25.00 in 1981)
• 4 oz Eau de Toilette Natural Spray  (retailed for $22.00)

• Bath Oil
• Refill for Bath Oil (retailed for $12 in 1981)
• Body Lotion
• 6 oz Dusting Powder  (retailed for $40.00)
• Refill for Dusting Powder (retailed for $17.50 in 1981)
• Bath Soap, sculpted as a swan  (a pair retailed for $13.50)

Fate of the Fragrance:

By 1988, it was distributed by the Cantilene Division of Parfums de Payot. It has been discontinued for many years. It was still being sold in 1993. It's interesting to note the evolution of Pavlova's distribution over the years, particularly with its transition to the Cantilene Division. Despite its discontinuation, the fragrance continued to hold its allure and remained available for purchase as late as 1993. This longevity speaks to the enduring appeal of Pavlova and its significance in the world of perfumery, even after its initial production ceased.

While Pavlova may no longer be readily available, its legacy lives on through the memories and experiences of those who cherished its enchanting scent. Its discontinuation adds a layer of nostalgia for enthusiasts and collectors who appreciate its unique blend of elegance and romance, making it a coveted treasure for those fortunate enough to encounter it.