Antinea by Rosine c1922

Antinea, launched by Paul Poiret in 1922, was a bold and evocative fragrance that drew on both myth and modernity, perfectly capturing the spirit of its time. The name "Antinea" is derived from the legendary character in Pierre Benoit’s novel L'Atlantide, published in 1919. In the novel, Antinea is a captivating and enigmatic queen who rules over the lost city of Atlantis. She is portrayed as a powerful femme fatale, mysterious and dangerously seductive, embodying both the beauty and perils of the ocean’s depths. The name Antinea itself is pronounced “An-tee-eh-nah” (with a soft emphasis on the second syllable), and in this context, it evokes images of ancient ruins, a mystical underwater world, and a woman whose allure is both intoxicating and perilous. It conjures emotions of longing, curiosity, and a sense of foreboding—drawing parallels to the attraction and danger inherent in the unknown.

The early 1920s, when Antinea was launched, were a time of significant social and cultural transformation. The aftermath of World War I gave rise to the "Roaring Twenties," an era marked by dramatic shifts in fashion, art, and social norms. The spirit of modernity and liberation, coupled with a growing fascination for the exotic, influenced not only the visual arts but also the world of perfumery. This was the age of Art Deco—a style characterized by geometric elegance, vibrant colors, and the blending of opulence with industrial design. Women of the period were rejecting traditional roles and embracing a more daring and independent lifestyle, epitomized by the flapper. Antinea, with its name and fragrance, was a perfect match for this moment of bold reinvention and exploration of the unknown, as it captured a sense of adventure, mystery, and exoticism.

The scent itself, with its salty and pungent notes of seaweed and the briny aroma of salt marshes, was certainly ahead of its time. At the heart of Antinea was a chypre-like structure, with elements that would later become more common in fragrances, such as moss, citrus, and aldehydes. The presence of C-12 MNA aldehyde imparted a fresh, amber-like quality with a metallic, waxy edge, which was unusual for fragrances of the time. The fragrance also incorporated tuberose, adding a floral sweetness, and coumarin, which provided a soft, powdery, and sweet undertone. This combination of sharp, fresh, and bitter notes—while floral and aromatic—was distinctive and carried an avant-garde feel that set it apart from more traditional floral perfumes of the period. Women of the time may have seen Antinea as a fragrance for the bold, those who wanted to project an image of mystery, strength, and allure, much like the novel’s femme fatale. The fragrance, both in concept and scent, likely appealed to women seeking a perfume that mirrored the complexities of their own personalities, moving beyond conventional ideals of beauty and femininity.

Poiret’s choice to name the fragrance Antinea was a reflection of his mastery as a designer and his ability to anticipate cultural shifts. As the leader of his fashion house, Poiret was known for embracing the unconventional and pushing the boundaries of both fashion and fragrance. He was famous for creating perfumes that matched his extravagant and revolutionary designs, such as his introduction of the modern perfume bottle. Antinea, with its strikingly unusual composition and evocative name, showcased his visionary approach to scent, capturing both the mystical allure of the legendary queen and the growing sense of freedom and modernity of the 1920s. The perfume was unique for its time in its bold use of salty, briny, and floral notes, making it stand out against the more traditional fragrances that dominated the market. Rather than following trends, Poiret created a fragrance that was as daring and innovative as the era itself, setting Antinea apart from others as a perfume for the avant-garde woman.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like? Antinea by Rosine is classified as a chypre fragrance for women.  It was described as having the scent of "salt marshes and the sharp, bitter and pungent seaweed." Antinea had a low level of the C-12 MNA aldehyde which gave it facets of fresh amber, aldehydes, moss, citrus, tuberose, metallic, waxy, and coumarin.

• Top notes: C-12 MNA aldehyde, Calabrian bergamot, Mediterranean seaweed, Mediterranean sea salt, Sicilian lemon
• Middle notes: Bourbon geranium, Portuguese tuberose, Grasse rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Canadian artemisia, Egyptian lotus, Sumatran patchouli, Provencal honey
• Base notes: Persian galbanum, Colombian tolu balsam, Indian musk ambrette, Bohemian oakmoss, Java vetiver, Venezuelan tonka bean, South Seas ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Mexican vanilla, Abyssinian civet, Cyprus labdanum, coumarin, vanillin

 Scent Profile:

Antinea by Rosine unfurls its layers of complexity with each individual ingredient, transporting you to the heart of the Mediterranean and the exotic realms beyond. As you first encounter the fragrance, the sharp, mineral-like essence of C-12 MNA aldehyde catches your senses, imparting a fresh amber quality that radiates a cool, waxy, metallic edge. This aldehyde whispers a clean, almost metallic crispness—vibrant, yet balanced by a subtle, powdery warmth that sets the tone for the rest of the composition. 

The fragrance swiftly evolves, revealing the tangy, zesty brightness of Calabrian bergamot—its citrus scent sharp yet sweet, coming from the sun-drenched groves of southern Italy, known for its intensely aromatic oils that offer a refreshing burst of citrus, more intense than many other varieties. Alongside it, the invigorating tang of Sicilian lemon bursts forth, a note that’s less tart and more fragrant than common lemon varieties, capturing the essence of the Mediterranean sun. Complementing these citrus accords, the bracing scent of Mediterranean seaweed weaves in, its green, salty tang mingling with the wind-swept marine air. The Mediterranean sea salt carries that same saline freshness, like the breeze off the coast, imbuing the fragrance with a touch of the wild, untamed sea.

As the fragrance deepens, the middle notes introduce a more floral and herbal richness. Bourbon geranium, hailing from the lush plantations of Réunion, brings a fragrant, almost green scent—earthy yet with a hint of rosy sweetness. This is tempered by Portuguese tuberose, a heady, creamy floral note that perfumes the air with its opulent richness, known for its seductive, almost intoxicating scent that has been cultivated to perfection in Portugal’s sun-soaked fields. The Grasse rose absolute, one of the most precious ingredients in perfumery, adds its unmistakable richness—a lush, velvety floral aroma that feels timeless and pure, its petals harvested from the heart of the famed French region. Alongside it, the Grasse jasmine absolute offers its deep, indolic sweetness, evoking the warm summer nights of the south of France, its creamy, honeyed richness balanced by a delicate animalic undertone. 

Canadian artemisia brings a herbaceous sharpness, a cool, almost camphorous edge that cuts through the sweetness, creating a delicate contrast to the more floral elements. The intriguing Egyptian lotus adds a soft, aquatic floral note—light, elegant, and almost ethereal, it evokes a sense of mystery, like the floating blooms on a still river. Sumatran patchouli, with its dense, earthy aroma, adds depth to the composition, its sweet, woody richness recalling the misty forests of Southeast Asia. A touch of Provencal honey softens the heart of Antinea, offering a subtle sweetness with an ambered warmth that makes the composition feel inviting and almost sensual.

The base notes of Antinea are where the fragrance's power lies, grounding the ephemeral top and heart notes with rich, complex elements. Persian galbanum, a resinous note with a sharp, green, and slightly bitter edge, offers an earthy, almost herbal facet to the fragrance, reminiscent of the aromatic, sun-baked landscapes of Iran. Colombian tolu balsam brings its rich, resinous warmth—deep and slightly balsamic with nuances of vanilla and honey, giving the fragrance an enveloping, comforting richness. Indian musk ambrette lends a musky, powdery warmth, with its sensual, slightly animalic note that is both earthy and airy, offering a nuanced softness. 

Bohemian oakmoss, one of the quintessential elements of a classic chypre fragrance, adds its deep, earthy, green scent—moist and mossy, with a grounding, forest-floor complexity that is both timeless and nostalgic. The smoky, woody depth of Java vetiver introduces a dry, almost dusty nuance, evoking the forests of Southeast Asia, where its roots are harvested to produce this deeply aromatic note. Venezuelan tonka bean weaves a layer of sweetness, reminiscent of rich, dark vanilla and almond, which contrasts beautifully with the drier, more resinous elements. A touch of South Seas ambergris adds an animalic complexity, both musky and sweet, with a marine quality that deepens the fragrance with its smooth, salty richness. 

Mysore sandalwood, renowned for its soft, creamy, and woody scent, adds a luxurious, velvety texture, imbuing the composition with a deep, sensual warmth that lasts for hours. Mexican vanilla, one of the most revered varieties, offers its sweet, comforting richness, rounding out the fragrance with a deep, warm sweetness that lingers on the skin. The touch of Abyssinian civet adds an exotic, animalic warmth, its slightly pungent, musky scent contributing to the fragrance's mysterious aura. The labdanum from the island of Cyprus, with its leathery, resinous quality, adds another layer of depth, while coumarin and vanillin—vanilla’s sweet, comforting cousins—introduce a soft, powdery sweetness, lending the fragrance a smooth and almost powdery finish.

Antinea is a fragrance of contrasts—salt and sweetness, lightness and depth, freshness and warmth. Each ingredient, sourced from all corners of the globe, comes together to evoke the mysterious allure of the mythical queen Antinea, a complex and powerful presence that lingers long after she’s gone. The fragrance speaks of the sea’s windswept shores, the warmth of the sun, and the hidden depths of the earth, making it a scent that is both enigmatic and inviting, offering layers of discovery with every wear.

Bottles:

The presentation of Antinea by Rosine encapsulates a harmonious blend of Eastern allure and Western sophistication, resonating deeply with the artistic sensibilities of its time, particularly influenced by Paul Poiret's fascination with exotic cultures and mythical lands such as Atlantis. Housed in a polished metal flask resembling a traditional Japanese inro box, the fragrance's packaging is a testament to Poiret's love for Oriental aesthetics. This choice not only reflects a cross-cultural appreciation but also elevates the allure of Antinea to a realm of luxury and artistry.

The flask itself, crafted in silver-toned metal, mirrors the intricate design and practical elegance of an inro box, traditionally used to hold small treasures suspended from the obi sash of a kimono. This homage to Japanese craftsmanship imbues Antinea with a sense of exclusivity and exoticism, transporting users to a world where beauty and mystery converge.

Enhancing the flask's appeal is its stopper, tinted in translucent rose and yellow hues and adorned with a green satin cord. These delicate touches not only evoke the fragrance's themes of sea and nature but also underscore its luxurious presentation. The choice of materials and colors speaks to a meticulous attention to detail, reflecting the artistry synonymous with both Poiret's designs and Rosine's perfumery.

Further complementing the flask is its packaging—a cardstock box enveloped in gold paper and lined with satin. This opulent casing not only protects the precious contents but also enhances the overall sensory experience, inviting anticipation and admiration before the flask is even opened.

For those preferring an alternative to the metal flask, clear glass bottles are available, echoing its design and adorned with the same elegant stopper. This consistency in presentation ensures that every facet of Antinea's allure is meticulously curated, from its inception as a fragrance to its final adornment in the hands of its discerning users.

In sum, Antinea by Rosine stands as a testament to timeless elegance and cultural appreciation, encapsulating the mythical allure of Atlantis through its fragrance and presenting it in a package that seamlessly merges Eastern tradition with Western luxury. It invites admirers to indulge in a sensorial journey where myth, art, and fragrance converge into an experience both unforgettable and evocative.

1921 ad

Atomizers:

In 1912-1913, Rosine introduced a groundbreaking innovation in the world of perfumery with the launch of atomizers paired with matching saucers for their fragrances. This concept was not only a mark of luxury but also a testament to the brand's dedication to elegance and sophistication. The saucers, crafted from delicate blown glass reminiscent of hookah bases, represented a fusion of artistry and functionality. Hand-painted at the prestigious Martine workshop, each saucer was a masterpiece in its own right, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail.

The introduction of these atomizers and saucers marked a significant milestone for Rosine, offering customers a refined way to display and use their favorite scents. This innovative approach elevated the sensory experience of perfume application, turning it into a ritual of beauty and indulgence. The decision to debut this luxurious accessory alongside the perfume Antinea, ou au fond de la Mer, underscored the fragrance's special status within the Rosine collection. Known for its mythical allure and evocative scent inspired by the depths of the sea, Antinea was a fitting choice to inaugurate this new era of presentation.

By launching these atomizers and saucers, Rosine positioned itself as a pioneer in perfumery, setting standards of excellence in both product design and customer experience. The blend of artful design and practical elegance embodied in these sets not only enhanced the allure of Rosine fragrances but also cemented the brand's reputation as a leader in luxury beauty. This innovative spirit continues to resonate through Rosine's legacy, reflecting a timeless commitment to innovation, craftsmanship, and the art of scent.

Fate of the Fragrance:

 Discontinued in 1930, Antinea by Rosine faced the common fate of many fragrances which cease production due to evolving consumer tastes, ingredient availability, or strategic decisions by the brand. The clearance sale of its remaining stock at drastically reduced prices was a standard practice aimed at clearing inventory and making way for new products in the market.

While the discontinuation of Antinea in 1930 was regrettable, the clearance sale presented an opportunity for fragrance enthusiasts to acquire the scent at more affordable prices. Such events typically draw in aficionados eager to replenish their collections or explore new fragrances without the usual financial commitment.

Despite no longer being actively produced, Antinea's legacy endures through the memories and experiences of those who cherished its unique blend of mythology, craftsmanship, and olfactory artistry. The fragrance remains a poignant reminder of Rosine's rich history in perfumery and its ability to weave narratives through scent.

Today, bottles of Antinea are rare finds, and when they do appear in the market, they often command premium prices due to their scarcity and the allure of owning a piece of fragrance history. This scarcity further enhances the fragrance's mystique, ensuring that its story continues to captivate and inspire fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike.