Andron for Women by Jovan c1981

Andron for Women by Jovan, launched in 1981, is a perfume that stands out not only because of its unique ingredients but also due to the cultural and scientific context in which it was created. Jovan, a brand renowned for offering affordable yet appealing fragrances, chose to introduce Andron at a time when the fragrance market was evolving, and consumer interest was piqued by innovative compositions and concepts. The name "Andron" itself is a curious one, evoking a sense of masculinity or power, as the term “andron” derives from the Greek word "aner," meaning "man." This suggests that Jovan might have intended to conjure thoughts of strength, dominance, and allure—qualities traditionally associated with masculinity but applied in an intriguing, feminine context. By naming the fragrance "Andron," Jovan likely sought to fuse these traditionally male-associated traits with the idea of attraction, creating a perfume that might appeal to women seeking empowerment or a fragrance with a provocative edge.

One of the most remarkable aspects of Andron is its use of alpha androstenol, a synthetic compound that plays a key role in the fragrance's effect. Alpha androstenol is a pheromone, a chemical substance believed to trigger social or sexual responses in members of the same species. In humans, pheromones are thought to influence attraction and behavior subconsciously, particularly in terms of sexual appeal. The inclusion of this compound in Andron sets it apart from many other fragrances on the market at the time, giving it a musky, animalistic, and subtly intoxicating quality. The perfume's creators claimed that the cost of synthesizing alpha androstenol made it the most expensive ingredient ever used in perfumery, underlining the brand’s bold foray into scientific innovation.

However, the effectiveness of pheromones and their ability to trigger attraction in humans remains a subject of debate within the scientific community. While some studies suggest that pheromones can have an impact on human behavior, the definitive proof of their influence on sexual attraction in everyday life is not conclusive. Despite this, the idea of a scent that could subtly influence attraction is undeniably appealing, and Andron capitalized on this notion by blending alpha androstenol with a bouquet of florals, including jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom, and black narcissus, creating a fragrance both sensual and intriguing.

When Andron was introduced in 1981, the world was in the midst of a cultural and social shift. The 1980s was a decade marked by bold fashion choices, the rise of consumerism, and a growing emphasis on personal empowerment—especially for women. This was the era of power dressing, when women were entering the corporate world in greater numbers, and fragrances that exuded confidence and assertiveness were in demand. In this context, a perfume like Andron, with its musky undertones and sensual appeal, might have resonated with women who were eager to project an aura of confidence, allure, and mystery.

Fashion in the early 1980s was defined by exaggerated silhouettes, strong lines, and an emphasis on status, and fragrance followed suit, with many perfumes becoming more complex and assertive. Chypres, known for their green, citrusy openings and mossy, earthy bases, were a staple of this era, but there was also a trend toward fragrances with synthetic musks and unique, experimental notes. Andron fits comfortably into this narrative, blending the floral chypre structure with an innovative and scientifically intriguing ingredient like alpha androstenol. It was unique for its time, especially in how it merged natural floral elements with a synthetic, biologically charged compound designed to heighten attraction.

The word “Andron” itself, with its masculine undertones, may have resonated with women of the time who were navigating a world that increasingly valued strength, independence, and assertiveness in women. It could have been interpreted as a bold declaration of empowerment, something that both evoked sensuality and confidence. The floral chypre structure—aldehydic top notes, followed by sweet florals and a powdery, sensual base—balanced the musky pheromone quality with a feminine, floral softness, making the fragrance both powerful and approachable. The initial aldehydic brightness could have conveyed a sense of freshness and modernity, while the heart of jasmine and tuberose lent the fragrance a romantic, sensual quality, and the base, enriched with musk and balsams, provided a lasting sense of warmth and depth.

In comparison to other fragrances of the early 1980s, Andron for Women stood apart by offering a scientifically inspired concept—pheromones—while also tapping into the trend of bold, complex florals. The fragrance did not simply fall in line with other perfumes of the time, which often emphasized either fresh, floral notes or earthy, mossy bases. Instead, Andron blended these elements with something new, marking it as innovative for its time. Whether or not the pheromone-inspired concept had a direct, measurable effect on human behavior is open to question, but Andron certainly left its mark by offering a unique and memorable sensory experience, one that was in tune with the cultural trends of the 1980s and the growing desire for fragrances that promised both power and allure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Andron for Women by Jovan is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with an aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart of jasmine, tuberose, orange blossom and black narcissus, resting on a sensual, powdery, balsamic base infused with the scent signaling pheromone, Androstenol.

• Top notes: aldehydes, citrus oils, Georgian peach, Chinese gardenia, spice note
• Middle notes: Alpine lily of the valley, Egyptian jasmine, Indian tuberose, Grasse rose, Florentine orris, French carnation, Manila ylang ylang, Tunisian orange blossom, black narcissus
• Base notes: Andron, Tonkin musk, Singapore patchouli, Haitian vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, leather, Madagascan vanilla

 

Scent Profile:

Andron for Women by Jovan opens with an effervescent rush of aldehydes, those sharp, almost metallic notes that immediately awaken the senses. It’s a sparkling, soapy clarity that cuts through the air, a burst of cleanliness mixed with citrus oils that tingle on the skin, evoking the sensation of a brisk, fresh breeze. The citrus oils—typically vibrant, sunny, and zesty—might bring to mind a sun-drenched Mediterranean grove, where the zest of freshly sliced oranges seems to burst forth in the warm air. There’s an almost mineral-like quality here, a clean, bright energy that introduces the fragrance with clarity and precision.

As the aldehydes begin to soften, the heart of the fragrance reveals itself, enveloping you in the lushness of Alpine lily of the valley, so fresh and green, its delicate, bell-like blooms unfurling like dewdrops in an early spring morning. This is immediately balanced by the full-bodied warmth of Egyptian jasmine, its sensual, sweet floral notes caressing the air with an intoxicating depth. Egyptian jasmine is especially notable for its richness, its waxy petals releasing a heady, almost creamy fragrance that sets this particular jasmine apart from others. It evokes the essence of the warm Egyptian soil, where the jasmine is allowed to grow with intense sunlight and the dry, aromatic air that permeates the region. 

Then, there’s the lush opulence of Indian tuberose, creamy, heady, and undeniably feminine, wrapping its intoxicating sweetness around the wearer's senses. Tuberose from India has a particularly rich, opulent quality, one that feels almost narcotic, exuding a sense of untamed beauty. As the fragrance progresses, the sharpness of French carnation and the subtle warmth of Manila ylang ylang deepen the floral bouquet, adding spicy and exotic nuances. The Tunisian orange blossom brings an elegant, fresh sweetness, rounding out the heart with a light, delicate orange scent reminiscent of blossoms caught on a warm, Mediterranean evening breeze. Finally, black narcissus—a rare and mysterious bloom—adds an intriguing edge, its almost bitter, smoky floral tones a contrast to the more overtly sweet flowers.

The base of Andron for Women is where its true complexity lies, transitioning into a sensual, powdery, and balsamic territory. At its heart, Andron, a synthetic compound designed to mimic pheromones, infuses the fragrance with a musky, animalic warmth, offering a subtle yet undeniable allure. This addition evokes the idea of attraction without being overt, making the fragrance feel both intimate and inviting, as if calling to a deeper, instinctual side. The Tonkin musk enriches this base with its velvety, animalic warmth, giving it an almost sensual depth that lingers on the skin. Singapore patchouli brings an earthy, spicy woodiness to the mix, its deeper, more robust scent offering contrast to the sweeter floral elements. 

Haitian vetiver introduces a smoky, green undertone, its rooty depth evoking the dense earth of the tropical island, where the scent of wet soil and wood permeates the air. The luxurious, smooth creaminess of Mysore sandalwood wraps the fragrance in its soft, woody warmth, a soft, dry, creamy scent that has been revered in perfumery for centuries for its ability to evoke calm and contemplation. The ambergris, with its rich, marine, musky qualities, infuses the fragrance with a lingering, animalic touch, giving it both longevity and a deep, almost sensual warmth that’s hard to pinpoint. The Madagascan vanilla introduces a sweet, comforting note, balancing the base with a subtle creaminess and warmth that whispers gently in the background, completing the fragrance with an inviting, lingering sweetness.

In the context of its time, Andron for Women was pioneering in its use of pheromone-like elements, combining florals, spices, and musks with an edge of scientific intrigue. The perfume's use of ingredients from around the world—Egyptian jasmine, Indian tuberose, Tunisian orange blossom, Haitian vetiver—speaks to a global interest in unique and authentic raw materials, each one carrying the distinctive characteristics of the region from which it hails. Whether it’s the crisp freshness of Georgian peach, or the creamy, floral richness of Manila ylang ylang, each element in Andron for Women is designed to evoke a sense of sophistication, complexity, and allure. The scent signals both a connection to the natural world and an evolution of synthetic innovation, providing a fragrance that feels both timeless and forward-thinking.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Andron for Women by Jovan, a fragrance noted for its sophisticated blend of floral and chypre elements along with the use of the rare synthesized alpha androstenol (Andron), has been discontinued. However, like its counterpart for men, the specific date of discontinuation remains unknown. Despite no longer being in production, its unique scent profile and the inclusion of the costly Andron ensure its place as a notable fragrance in the brand's history.

Andron for Men:

Andron for Men by Jovan, launched in 1981, was a bold and innovative fragrance that carried the name “Andron,” which directly evokes a sense of masculinity and primal allure. The name “Andron” is derived from the Greek word "aner" (ἀνήρ), meaning "man." This linguistic origin is significant, as it connects the perfume to a sense of virility, strength, and masculinity, which the fragrance clearly sought to embody. Pronounced “An-dron” (with the emphasis on the first syllable), the name hints at something mysterious and commanding, immediately calling to mind images of power, confidence, and an almost animalistic nature.

When Andron for Men was released, it was during a time of significant cultural change, and the 1980s were marked by bold experimentation and individualism in both fashion and fragrance. The early ’80s were a decade of excess, marked by lavish styles, extravagant tastes, and an embrace of power dressing. Politically and economically, the era was characterized by optimism, and consumer culture was on the rise, especially with the advent of mass-market fragrances. This was a time when personal identity became more strongly tied to the products people consumed, and fragrances like Andron for Men were designed to make a statement. The emphasis on masculinity in fragrances was prominent during this period, as the scent aimed to reflect an assertive, self-assured man who was unapologetically confident and commanding in his presence. The introduction of Andron was also notable in that it tapped into the emerging fascination with pheromones, particularly synthetic ones like alpha androstenol, which promised to heighten attraction and influence the behavior of others.

In terms of fashion and trends, the 1980s saw the rise of bold, signature scents for men, breaking away from the more classic or traditional fragrance compositions of the previous decades. The scent profiles in men’s fragrances became more daring, with Andron for Men falling into the category of animalic leathery chypre—a classification that was not widely embraced at the time but was perfect for those seeking something outside the mainstream. Fragrances such as Andron for Men appealed to a man who viewed himself as distinct, sophisticated, and confident in his masculinity. Women in the 1980s who would have encountered the men’s version would have been drawn to its power and complexity, as the scent mirrored the social dynamics of a time when boldness and assertiveness were highly valued.

The scent of Andron for Men itself reflects its name and the cultural moment it represents. The complex blend of floral, woody, and animalic notes embodies a fragrance that exudes strength and rugged masculinity. The use of alpha androstenol, a synthetic compound that mimics human pheromones, added an element of intrigue and mystique to the scent, suggesting an almost magnetic allure. This emphasis on attraction and power was distinct from other fragrances of the time, which often focused on fresh, citrus-heavy or wood-based profiles. Andron for Men set itself apart by appealing to deeper, more primal instincts with its combination of leather, amber, and the musky, animalic undertones of musk and patchouli. It was a fragrance that did not just smell pleasant but made a statement about the man wearing it, reflecting a desire to stand apart from the crowd and embrace one’s most assertive, confident self.

In the broader context of 1980s perfumery, Andron for Men was a unique entry. While many men’s fragrances of the time were pushing the boundaries of what was considered traditional masculinity, Andron took a more radical approach by incorporating pheromones—something never before done on such a scale. Its use of alpha androstenol, marketed as the most expensive ingredient in perfumery, gave the fragrance a scientific edge, positioning it as not only a scent but also a tool for attraction. It was a bold declaration that scent could be both seductive and primal, a reflection of the bold and ever-changing nature of the 1980s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Andron for Men is classified as an animalic leathery chypre fragrance for men. Top notes of fresh green and citrus, warmed with floral complexes and woody notes of sandalwood and patchouli. Dries down to a combination of animal complexes, including civet, musk, ambergris and castoreum with the pheromone, Androstenol. It starts off with a fresh top of aldehydes and artemisia, followed by a floral woody heart of jasmine and patchouli, resting on a warm, leathery, mossy base of leather and oakmoss. 

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, aldehydes, Moroccan artemisia, Hungarian clary sage, fresh green note
• Middle notes: Egyptian jasmine, Singapore patchouli, Bourbon geranium, Virginian cedar, French carnation, Spanish thyme
• Base notes: Andron, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss, leather, Tonkin musk, Haitian vetiver, ambergris, Abyssinian civet, Siamese benzoin, Canadian castoreum

Scent Profile:

 

Andron for Men is a fragrance that opens with a sharp, invigorating burst, drawing you in with its top notes of Calabrian bergamot and aldehydes. The Calabrian bergamot, hailing from the coastal region of Calabria in Italy, offers a bright, zesty citrus punch that immediately awakens the senses, its effervescent freshness cutting through the air. This bergamot is not like the typical citrus notes; it’s deepened, with a slight bitterness that speaks of its Mediterranean roots, grounding the scent with its distinctive clarity. The aldehydes introduce a sparkling, soapy quality, which is both clean and luminous, creating a sense of openness and airiness in the fragrance’s opening.

As the aldehydic brightness begins to settle, the fragrance reveals the warm, herbal complexity of Moroccan artemisia and Hungarian clary sage. Artemisia—from the arid regions of Morocco—brings an herbal, slightly sweet, and dry nuance, reminiscent of a sun-warmed, windswept desert. It introduces a spicy edge that whispers of exotic landscapes, while clary sage, harvested in the fertile lands of Hungary, adds a smooth, almost balsamic depth, with its earthy yet slightly floral qualities bringing warmth to the heart of the fragrance. There’s a subtle fresh green note that ties these elements together, adding a hint of chlorophyll, reminiscent of dewy foliage after an early morning rain.

The heart of Andron for Men shifts into more florals and woody complexities, where Egyptian jasmine stands at the forefront. Egyptian jasmine, known for its full-bodied, creamy sweetness, enhances the fragrance with its rich, heady floral note. It adds a layer of sophistication, opening up a sensuous floral complexity that’s never too overt, but rather deeply embedded in the scent’s structure. Singapore patchouli, which grows in the humid climates of Southeast Asia, is another standout ingredient, with its earthy, smoky, and slightly sweet scent that adds an undeniable depth and balance to the florals. 

Patchouli here is not just grounding but almost balsamic, weaving through the fragrance with an intriguing power that lingers throughout. 

Bourbon geranium, from the lush lands of Réunion Island, further elevates this heart with its green, rosy undertones, adding a refreshing touch that brightens the heart and contrasts the deeper, darker tones. The heart also carries hints of Virginian cedar, a wood known for its crisp, dry, slightly smoky essence, which gives structure to the composition and blends seamlessly with the balsamic richness of French carnation, adding spice and warmth. Spanish thyme contributes a light, herbaceous quality, rounding out the heart with a soft, earthy greenness that doesn’t overpower, but rather complements the deeper tones.

As Andron for Men settles into its base, it transforms into a complex and animalic symphony. The distinctive Andron, a synthesized form of alpha androstenol, takes center stage. This pheromone-like molecule imparts a musky, almost primal essence, giving the fragrance a distinct, body-heat quality that’s both intimate and alluring. This synthetic pheromone introduces a mysterious edge, elevating the fragrance to an almost magnetic level. 

The base continues with the animalic warmth of Mysore sandalwood, one of the most coveted woods in perfumery, hailing from India. The Mysore sandalwood adds its signature creamy, rich, and woody fragrance, offering smooth, velvety richness that envelops the wearer in its comforting embrace. Paired with the earthy, damp depth of Yugoslavian oakmoss, a highly prized ingredient known for its rich, mossy, slightly musty quality, the base takes on a natural, woody darkness that feels both grounding and sophisticated.

The leathery nuances of leather, combined with the balsamic sweetness of Siamese benzoin, evoke a warm, resinous feel, like the scent of well-worn leather paired with the comforting, smoky sweetness of incense. The muskiness of Tonkin musk adds another layer of sensuality, amplifying the primal appeal of the fragrance with its animalic, warm, and slightly sweet characteristics. Haitian vetiver provides a final, earthy edge, its dry, smoky, and woody aroma creating a refined base that contrasts with the sweetness of ambergris, which adds a touch of salty richness and marine depth, blending with the slightly sweet and warm musks and leathery accords.

Lastly, the fragrance is laced with the earthy, animalic presence of Abyssinian civet and Canadian castoreum, both of which add a raw, untamed quality to the scent. Civet, sourced from the African civet cat, brings a musky, slightly pungent aroma that evokes the rawness of nature, while castoreum, from the glands of beavers, contributes a leathery, smoky depth that rounds out the base with a touch of animalic complexity.

Andron for Men is a fragrance that speaks to those who are unafraid to embrace their primal, animalistic side, yet it carries with it an air of sophistication through its rich, woody, and floral heart. The complex layering of alpha androstenol, patchouli, sandalwood, and leather creates a fragrance that feels both enticing and commanding, drawing those around you in while asserting your presence. It is a scent for the man who is both rugged and refined, a balance of power and allure, a true reflection of the untamed masculine spirit.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Andron for Men by Jovan, despite its unique and complex scent profile, has also been discontinued. Unfortunately, the exact date of discontinuation remains unknown. However, its discontinuation has not diminished its reputation as a memorable and distinctive fragrance, particularly due to its use of rare and expensive ingredients like the synthesized alpha androstenol (Andron).