Jasmin from Egypt by Tuvache c1941

Launched in 1941, Jasmin from Egypt by Tuvaché carries a name that evokes an air of exoticism, romance, and timeless beauty. The choice of the name "Jasmin from Egypt" reflects not only the fragrance's inspiration but also its intention to transport wearers to the enchanting lands of the Nile, where jasmine blooms under the starry skies. Jasmine, often referred to as the “queen of the night,” holds a significant presence in Egyptian culture. Jasmine grows in Egypt, thriving in its warm, arid climate. Egyptian jasmine, particularly Jasminum grandiflorum, is known for its intensely sweet, opulent, and slightly fruity aroma, which sets it apart from other varieties like the green, almost spicy jasmine of India or the lighter, airy jasmine of Italy. Egyptian jasmine has a deep, velvety richness, making it a prized component in perfumery.

The imagery and emotions evoked by the name Jasmin from Egypt are vivid and alluring. It conjures visions of moonlit nights on the banks of the Nile, the air heavy with the intoxicating scent of jasmine blossoms. It speaks of ancient romance, glamour, and the mystery of a faraway land. This was especially appealing in the early 1940s, a period marked by both upheaval and a longing for escapism.

In 1941, the world was in the midst of World War II, and many aspects of daily life were shaped by the challenges of the time. While fashion and luxury were subdued by rationing and practicality, women still sought ways to express elegance and femininity, often turning to perfumes as an accessible form of indulgence. A fragrance like Jasmin from Egypt would have offered an escape—a way to imagine oneself as a glamorous and enigmatic figure, even in the face of wartime austerity.

During this period, soliflore fragrances, which celebrate the purity of a single floral note, were becoming increasingly popular. Jasmin from Egypt stands out as a quintessential soliflore, capturing the essence of jasmine in its most authentic form. Its sweet, heavy, and true-to-nature scent would have been unique compared to the lighter, more blended florals that dominated earlier decades. This fragrance would have appealed to women who desired something bold, luxurious, and unmistakably feminine.

The marketing of Jasmin from Egypt further enhanced its allure. Described as “the pure essence of those heavenly scented, tiny star-shaped blossoms that have for centuries made the nights on the Nile the most romantic in the world,” the perfume promised an unparalleled sensory experience. It was positioned as the fragrance of the world’s most glamorous women, a scent that exuded magnetic charm and sophistication.

In the context of other fragrances on the market, Jasmin from Egypt struck a balance between aligning with the soliflore trend and carving out its niche with its distinctly Egyptian inspiration. While other perfumes celebrated jasmine, few captured its essence with such singular devotion or tied it to the romance of a specific locale. This made Jasmin from Egypt both unique and emblematic of its time—a fragrance that invited women to dream of a world far removed from the realities of war and embrace the timeless allure of jasmine.

The Story Behind Jasmin from Egypt:

In 1941, Jasmin from Egypt emerged not just as a perfume but as a legend, famously heralded as "the most expensive perfume in the world." Its story is steeped in intrigue, passion, and the pursuit of the exotic, beginning with an unconventional muse—Bernadine Angus, also known as Madame de Tuvache, a celebrated Broadway and Hollywood playwright. Mrs. Angus had an unusual ritual for combating fatigue during her long writing sessions. Instead of relying on coffee or tea, she turned to perfume. She would dab the back of her hand with a few drops of fragrance, claiming it not only rested her nerves but also ignited her imagination. This practice inspired a profound curiosity about the world of scent and eventually became the foundation of Jasmin from Egypt.

The story gained momentum during a summer vacation in Morocco, where Bernadine and her husband sought inspiration for her theatrical works. Invited to dine at the home of a sheik, Bernadine was granted rare access to the harem of his four wives. There, she encountered the favorite wife, resplendent in silk and jewels, who exuded an intoxicating and "divinely alluring" fragrance that captivated Bernadine. Intrigued, she began her quest to uncover the source of this enchanting aroma. Visits to the bustling perfume bazaars revealed that the scent was Egyptian jasmine, a rare and precious essence reserved for only the most opulent and seductive women of the region.

Determined to bring this treasure to American women, Bernadine decided to create her own version of Egyptian jasmine. She sourced one pound of jasmine essence directly from the land of the Sphinx—a purchase that cost her an astronomical $1,600 at the time. According to an inflation calculator, this figure equals to $35,813.33 using 2024's money. The journey of this precious cargo was fraught with danger. Three ships carrying the jasmine essence were torpedoed during its passage to America, highlighting the challenges of wartime trade. Yet, against all odds, the jasmine arrived, and Jasmin from Egypt was born.

The perfume quickly became a symbol of ultimate luxury, priced at an astounding $100 per ounce—an extraordinary sum for the era. It was marketed as a scent that embodied glamour, mystery, and sophistication, capturing the imagination of North American women and promising a touch of the exotic allure of the East. The legend of Jasmin from Egypt lives on as a testament to Bernadine Angus’s determination to transform a personal curiosity into a fragrance that defined opulence and became part of American glamour history.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Jasmin from Egypt is classified as a jasmine soliflore fragrance for women. it is sweet, heavy and authentic in scent to the jasmine.

"Jasmin from Egypt is the pure essence of those heavenly scented, tiny star-shaped blossoms that have for centuries made the nights on the Nile the most romantic in the world. it's the swooningly magnetic fragrance of the most glamorous women of the world."

• Top notes: Algerian cassie, Italian neroli, benzyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, "floralnol" 
• Middle notes: "indol", Egyptian jasmine absolute, Tunisian orange blossom, Florentine orris, farnesol, methyl nonylacetaldehyde
• Base notes: Abyssinian civet, Indian musk ambrette, South Seas ambergris, Venezuelan tolu balsam, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan musk, styrolyl alcohol, Peru balsam, Himalayan costus  

Scent Profile:

The opening of Jasmin from Egypt begins with a soft caress of Algerian cassie, evoking golden-hued blossoms. Its scent is both sweet and powdery, tinged with faint green and spicy undertones, as if you’ve stumbled upon a sun-drenched grove in North Africa. The cassie feels rich and grounding, a prelude to the brightness that follows.

Italian neroli dances delicately into the air, its citrusy sweetness imbued with the elegance of Mediterranean orchards. This particular neroli possesses a purity that recalls freshly crushed orange blossoms, emitting a radiant floral brightness that sparkles against the deeper tones of cassie.

A touch of benzyl acetate, with its light and fruity-floral character, brings a crystalline clarity to the bouquet, enhancing the natural sweetness of the jasmine core. 

Linalool and linalyl acetate add an herbaceous and slightly woody warmth, while methyl anthranilate contributes a subtle, grape-like juiciness that whispers of ripe abundance. Finally, Floralnol, a modern creation, provides an almost dewy, velvety nuance, as if the petals themselves are alive, exuding their essence under the golden glow of sunrise.

The heart of Jasmin from Egypt blooms with its namesake, Egyptian jasmine absolute, the undeniable star. This jasmine is the epitome of sensuality—its sweet, opulent aroma is velvety and intoxicating, drenched in the heat of the Egyptian sun. Unlike jasmine from other regions, this variety carries a rich depth, balancing its narcotic sweetness with earthy, indolic facets that feel primal and hypnotic, as though the Nile itself has whispered its secrets into the blossoms.

A hint of indol emerges—a daring, animalic undertone that adds sultry warmth to the floral. This edge of wildness enhances the allure of the perfume, as though nature itself is breathing life into the scent.

Tunisian orange blossom, known for its creamy and honeyed sweetness, blends harmoniously with the jasmine, adding a luminous radiance that softens the perfume’s more intense facets. Florentine orris lends a buttery, powdery elegance, its subtle violet-like aroma enveloping the florals in a cocoon of refinement. Farnesol, with its green, waxy nuance, mimics the scent of freshly picked jasmine petals, while methyl nonylacetaldehyde infuses a modern aldehydic lift that feels sparkling and effervescent, like sunlight dancing on water.

As the fragrance settles, the base unfolds like a luxurious tapestry, woven with rich and exotic ingredients. Abyssinian civet, with its musky and slightly leathery quality, lends a touch of animalic warmth, connecting the scent to a primal sensuality. This blends seamlessly with Indian musk ambrette, a plant-based musk with a fruity-floral softness, adding a lighthearted, almost playful element to the otherwise deep base.

The allure of South Seas ambergris washes over like an ocean breeze—its salty, mineralic depth mingling with the warmth of the perfume to create an otherworldly glow. Venezuelan tolu balsam brings a sweet, resinous richness with hints of vanilla and cinnamon, grounding the fragrance in a warm, inviting embrace.

Siamese benzoin, with its caramelized, slightly smoky sweetness, enhances the gourmand facet of the base, while Tibetan musk adds a deep, velvety animalic texture that lingers like a whispered secret. Styrolyl alcohol, known for its faintly floral and creamy character, softens the harsher edges, and Peru balsam contributes an earthy, balsamic sweetness with a faint woody undertone. Finally, the enigmatic Himalayan costus offers a unique, earthy muskiness with a dry, root-like depth, evoking images of rugged, untamed mountain landscapes.

Each ingredient in Jasmin from Egypt tells a story—of faraway lands, lush blossoms, and raw sensuality. Together, they form an irresistible composition that transcends the boundaries of place and time. The perfume is a tribute to the romance of the Nile’s nights, the sultry allure of the jasmine flower, and the glamour of the world’s most captivating women. This fragrance feels as if it has captured the essence of a thousand stars, woven into a bottle, waiting to ignite imaginations and hearts alike.

 

Bottle:

"The precious liquid is being encased in the hollow center of an oblong hunk of crystal which looks as if Cleopatra's slaves might have wrested it from the earth's rare treasures. Like the fabulous gifts stored in the tombs of the Pharaohs, the crystal chamber is wrapped in long strips of Egyptian linen (even as were the royal mummies) and laid to rest in a wooden case. A high cubical stopper is the entrance to the precious liquid chamber, and it is raffia-bound Egyptian-wise to the crystal oblong."

The presentation of Jasmin from Egypt was as mesmerizing and opulent as the perfume itself, a striking tribute to the mystique of ancient Egyptian treasures. The precious liquid, a mere ounce of perfume, was encased in a solid, oblong hunk of lead crystal. This extraordinary bottle, with its weight and clarity, looked as though it had been unearthed from the ancient tombs of the Pharaohs. The crystal chamber, hollowed out with meticulous precision, was a vessel worthy of Cleopatra herself—its design evoking an artifact of immeasurable value. The name “Jasmin from Egypt” and “M. de Tuvache New York” were delicately acid-etched onto the surface, marking it as both exotic and exclusive. The heavy, flared stopper, crowned with a ground glass plug, was bound with raffia in a distinctly Egyptian style, emphasizing the care and artistry devoted to sealing the precious perfume within.

The bottle’s origins, while unmarked, bear the hallmarks of Japanese craftsmanship from the late 1930s. The chunky design resembles lead crystal bottles often seen with Irice labels, a known export from Japan before the Second World War. It is likely that these bottles were custom acid-etched in Japan and discreetly imported into the United States by Madame Tuvache. During a time when anti-Japanese sentiments ran high, such a move would have been carefully managed, potentially leading to the removal of any "Made in Japan" markings to align with public sensitivities. The bottles, despite their wartime origins, carried an air of timelessness, reflecting both artistry and functionality.

Each bottle was cocooned in strips of Egyptian linen, reminiscent of the wrappings used to preserve the royal mummies of ancient Egypt. These linen strips were not merely protective but symbolic, weaving the narrative of luxury, antiquity, and mystery into the presentation. To further safeguard the crystal and its rare contents, raffia strings were tightly wound around the stopper, ensuring it remained securely in place during transit. The final touch to this elaborate packaging was a wooden presentation box, carefully crafted and wrapped with raffia strings, giving the impression of a miniature shipping container. Stickers adorned the box, mimicking the aesthetic of exotic cargo—a nod to the perfume's voyage across continents and its inspiration drawn from distant lands.

The design of Jasmin from Egypt went beyond functionality, creating an immersive sensory and visual experience. From the weighty crystal flacon to the linen wrappings and raffia-bound box, every detail carried echoes of ancient Egypt’s splendor and allure. This packaging was not merely a container for perfume but a deliberate and theatrical statement, invoking the romance of discovery and the elegance of an era that prized luxury, craftsmanship, and the art of storytelling.

In 1944, amidst the backdrop of wartime sacrifices and economic uncertainty, a beacon of luxury emerged in the perfume world with Tuvache's "Jasmin from Egypt," priced at an unprecedented $100 per ounce. This exorbitant price tag reflected not just the cost of the rare and exquisite ingredients used in its formulation, but also the burgeoning demand for indulgence and opulence during a time of scarcity.

Perfume departments across the country struggled to keep up with the demand for such expensive scents, but none could match the allure and prestige of "Jasmin from Egypt." Its arrival marked a pinnacle in luxury fragrance, captivating the imaginations of those who sought to adorn themselves with the most exclusive and sumptuous scents available.

As society grappled with the challenges of war, Mme. Bernadine Tuvache's creation stood as a testament to the enduring allure of beauty and sophistication. "Jasmin from Egypt" became not just a perfume, but a symbol of glamour and elegance, cherished by those who could afford to indulge in its luxurious embrace.

Harrisburg Telegraph, 1945:

"$100 an ounce perfume... reflecting the luxury boom of 1944, perfume departments had trouble keeping a stock of expensive scents. Most fabulous hit of all was Tuvache's hundred dollar and ounce, Jasmin de Egypt."

In the post-war boom of the mid-1940s, luxury was experiencing a sharp rise in demand, with perfume leading the charge as an extravagant and desirable commodity. Tuvache's Jasmin from Egypt stood out as a prime example of this new era of opulence. In 1945, the Harrisburg Telegraph reported on the allure of this fragrance, noting that it sold for an astonishing $100 an ounce. At the time, this price point was almost unimaginable, especially for a perfume. To put it into perspective, an inflation calculator shows that $100 in 1945 would be equivalent to about $1,773 in 2024—an eye-watering figure for a single ounce of fragrance. This was the epitome of luxury in a bottle, priced beyond the reach of most, but still attracting attention from a clientele that was eager to indulge in the finer things that emerged in the wake of wartime austerity.

Two years later, the Star Tribune added more fuel to the fire of Jasmin from Egypt's legendary status. At $100 an ounce—plus a $20 tax, which added an additional $0.26 per drop—this perfume was not only the most expensive fragrance on the market but was also seen as a symbol of the era’s shift toward indulgence. The article revealed that Jasmin from Egypt had been created by Bernadine de Tuvache, a red-haired playwright who owned the Tuvache perfume company. Tuvache's background in Broadway comedies, including Angel Island, lent an air of Hollywood glamour to the perfume’s origins. The Star Tribune noted that the perfume had captured the attention of the wealthy and glamorous, particularly in Hollywood, where movie stars were reportedly purchasing it by the bottle. Tuvache herself marveled at the popularity of Jasmin from Egypt, which had been in circulation since 1941, noting that despite its exorbitant price, thousands of people across the country—including many from the entertainment industry—were eager to get their hands on it.

Star Tribune, 1947:

"What is supposed to be the most expensive perfume in the world costs three times its weight in gold - and was dreamed up by a lady playwright. It is "Jasmine from Egypt", compounded by Bernadine de Tuvache, red-headed owner of the Tuvache perfume company and author of three Broadway comedies, including 'Angel Island' which became a movie. The stuff costs $100 an ounce, plus a $20 tax, which brings the tariff to roughly 26 cents a drop. Rather to the amazement of Miss de Tuvache, thousands  of  men and women all over the USA have bought the perfume since it was introduced in 1941. A good share of these customers are in Hollywood.  "Movie stars must pour it on by the bottle",  Miss Tuvache says. Perfume, she says, is actually worth what it costs, in cold blooded terms of what goes into it. One of her scents, "Zezan", was invented during the war, and OPA officials, noting the costs of the ingredients set the price at $75 an ounce The extraordinary concentration of her perfumes, as well as the distinctive fragrances, make up their high cost, Miss de Tuvache says."

In comparison to more widely available perfumes, Jasmin from Egypt stood as a luxury item that was almost priced beyond accessibility. At $120 in 1947 (adjusted for inflation to around $1,761 in 2024), the perfume’s price tag positioned it squarely in the realm of the elite. By the standards of the time, this was not a fragrance for casual use—it was a statement of wealth, status, and refinement. For most people, especially during the lingering economic strains of the post-war period, perfumes at such prices would have been utterly unattainable. The extravagant cost was not only a reflection of the rare and concentrated ingredients used in the fragrance but also a product of the growing demand for unique and high-quality perfumes in a time when luxury was becoming more synonymous with exclusivity.

The mention of Tuvache’s other perfume, Zezan, priced at $75 an ounce during the war (equivalent to about $1,101 in 2024), further highlights the steep price of these perfumes. Even though Zezan was also expensive, it was still a relative bargain compared to Jasmin from Egypt. The high cost of these perfumes wasn’t just about brand prestige—it was about the ingredients themselves. As Tuvache explained, the extraordinary concentration of her perfumes and their distinctive, rare fragrances justified the cost. But with prices like these, it’s clear that these perfumes were reserved for the wealthiest, the most fashion-forward, and those seeking a fragrance that was as much about status as it was about scent.

In the context of the wartime austerity and rationing, such perfumes were clearly not within the reach of average consumers. Yet, they represented a new type of post-war luxury—one that embraced indulgence, excess, and the desire to escape from the hardships of the past. For those fortunate enough to afford these perfumes, they became symbols of the prosperity and glamour of the post-war world, accessible only to the privileged few who could afford to indulge in such extravagance.

The New Yorker, 1956:

"Tuvache's highly self-possessed Violet, Moroccan Rose, and Jungle Gardenia are more and more popular, and, for $49.50, this firm will make up, to order, four ounces of highly concentrated Jasmine from Egypt, a sultry skin perfume that is not easy to wear- just be sure the woman better be sure the lady has a passion for it. Tuvaché bath oils come in five scents (the three above plus lilac and lily of the valley) cost from $7.50 to $11 and will take the place of perfumes on the hair of furs."

In the mid-1950s, Tuvache's fragrances continued to be celebrated for their bold and unique compositions, capturing the essence of exoticism and luxury. In The New Yorker of 1956, the perfume house's offerings were highlighted, noting the growing popularity of scents such as Violet, Moroccan Rose, and Jungle Gardenia. These fragrances were part of Tuvache's growing reputation for creating intensely concentrated, highly distinctive perfumes that were favored by those seeking something more than the mainstream offerings of the time. Among Tuvache's portfolio, Jasmin from Egypt stood out as a sultry, intense fragrance, one that was not for the faint-hearted. Priced at $49.50 for just four ounces of perfume (which, adjusted for inflation, would be about $582.93 in 2024), it was positioned as an exclusive, high-end fragrance, catering to those with a discerning taste for strong, exotic perfumes.

The description of Jasmin from Egypt as a "sultry skin perfume that is not easy to wear" speaks to its boldness. The fragrance's intensity and its deeply evocative scent would appeal to women who were confident and passionate about the fragrances they wore. Tuvache herself emphasized that a woman "better be sure" she had a strong passion for it, suggesting that this was a perfume that required a certain level of personal conviction to wear. Its deep, exotic notes were far from subtle, and it had the power to make a statement. At nearly $50 for a concentrated four-ounce bottle, it was a luxury fragrance for the woman who was looking for something more than just a fleeting scent, but a perfume that became a part of her persona.

The mention of Tuvache's bath oils further contextualizes the evolving perfume market of the 1950s. Bath oils in scents like Violet, Moroccan Rose, and Jungle Gardenia were priced from $7.50 to $11—no small sum at the time, and when adjusted for inflation, these prices would range from $88.32 to $129.54 in today’s money. These bath oils were marketed as replacements for perfumes on the hair or furs, implying that the luxurious experience of Tuvache’s fragrances could be enjoyed in a less concentrated, more relaxed form. The oils offered a more subtle way to wear the exotic, potent scents, catering to a broader range of customers who desired luxury but in a less overpowering manner than the concentrated perfumes.

These bath oils also indicate a broader trend in the 1950s, where luxury fragrances became an integral part of the daily routine for the well-heeled woman. The era’s growing focus on personal grooming and indulgence found its expression in products like these—luxurious, refined, and slightly exotic. Tuvache, with its ability to blend intensely concentrated scents like Jasmin from Egypt into both perfumes and bath products, successfully tapped into the desire for a sophisticated and immersive fragrance experience.

For those who could afford it, Tuvache’s offerings—whether in the form of a highly concentrated perfume or a rich bath oil—represented a luxurious, albeit expensive, escape into a world of opulence, fantasy, and sensuous pleasure.

Fate of the Fragrance:

By 1976, Jasmin from Egypt by Tuvache had become a symbol of exclusive luxury, continuing to captivate the fragrance world despite its long history. Although the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, it was still available for purchase well into the 1970s, where its legendary status had only grown. In the book Salted Peanuts: Eighteen Hundred Little Known Facts, it was noted that Jasmin from Egypt was not only still being sold but was also the most expensive perfume in the world at the time. The price had risen to a staggering ninety dollars per ounce—an immense sum for a fragrance during that period, especially when compared to other perfumes on the market. Adjusted for inflation, this price would be even higher in today’s money ($510.87), further cementing its status as a luxury product for the elite.

The perfume’s exclusivity was part of what made it so sought after. By the 1970s, Jasmin from Egypt had attained near-mythical status, its rich, intense fragrance still whispered about in high society circles and among those with a taste for the finest things in life. The scent’s deep jasmine notes, which had once been a rare and precious luxury only available in small quantities, were now an icon of 20th-century perfumery. Its continued high price point was not just a reflection of its ingredients, which were still considered extraordinarily costly, but also of the craftsmanship involved in creating such an evocative and refined fragrance.

The continued retail availability of Jasmin from Egypt in 1976, combined with its high price, suggests a cultural moment where luxury goods, especially perfumes, became markers of prestige. In an era where fashion and personal grooming were becoming more extravagant and sophisticated, Jasmin from Egypt stood as the epitome of what a high-end fragrance could be: exotic, sensual, and above all, rare. The price tag of ninety dollars per ounce not only set it apart as a fragrance of exceptional quality, but it also reinforced its allure as a perfume reserved for those with the means to indulge in the most luxurious products available.

Even as the perfume world evolved, Jasmin from Egypt remained a testament to the golden age of fragrance, a relic of the 1940s and 1950s where perfume houses like Tuvache boldly pushed the boundaries of opulence and exclusivity. Its presence on the market in 1976, though rare, kept the dream of its exotic and extravagant origins alive, capturing the imaginations of those who could still afford to experience its intoxicating blend.