Grossmith London

This comprehensive portfolio of Grossmith, founded in 1835, is a quintessential example of a heritage perfume house that has built a lasting legacy in the world of luxurious fragrances and high-quality soaps. Renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and dedication to quality, Grossmith has been a beacon of excellence in perfumery for generations.

The company's journey began in the 19th century, during a time when the art of fragrance creation was gaining prominence. Grossmith quickly distinguished itself with its intricate and sophisticated scents, which appealed to the discerning tastes of the elite. The brand's commitment to using the finest ingredients and traditional methods has been a cornerstone of its enduring success.

Over the years, Grossmith has continued to evolve while remaining true to its roots. Its current portfolio includes both classic and modern scents, each crafted with the same level of precision and care that has defined the brand since its inception. This seamless blend of tradition and innovation has allowed Grossmith to remain relevant and esteemed in the ever-changing landscape of perfumery.

The revival of Grossmith in the 21st century by the descendants of the original founders has further cemented its status as a heritage brand. By reintroducing some of its historic fragrances and developing new ones, the company has managed to capture the essence of its rich history while appealing to contemporary tastes.

Today, Grossmith's fragrances are celebrated not only for their olfactory beauty but also for their exquisite presentation. Each perfume bottle is a testament to the brand's dedication to luxury and elegance, making Grossmith a symbol of heritage and quality in the world of perfumery. Whether through their timeless classics or innovative new creations, Grossmith continues to enchant and inspire perfume enthusiasts around the globe.

Origins:

Established in London in 1835 by John Grossmith, whose family roots in farming date back to 1688 in Bishops Waltham, the company draws from a rural upbringing that likely influenced his career in perfumery. His mother, Mary Lipscomb, hailed from Upham, underscoring community ties of the era. These connections shaped Grossmith's values and work ethic, evident in his entrepreneurial journey.

His marriage to Lucy Eliza Whitaker signifies both personal and strategic community alliances, pivotal in his social and economic advancement. This background illuminates Grossmith's trajectory as a successful perfumer in 19th-century London, where he began distilling peppermint and Mitcham lavender in Surrey as a hobby before launching "Menthanodyne" in 1850, a dual-purpose health product.

Grossmith's use of lavender in products like Lavender Water, perfumes, and soaps highlights his botanical expertise and appreciation for natural scents. Beyond perfumes, he offered a diverse range of cosmetics, health remedies, and culinary extracts, including his renowned "Bon Gout Sauce."

His showroom in London stocked an array of luxurious items, from crystal bottles to manicure sets, catering to discerning tastes and showcasing his broad expertise. Grossmith's legacy in perfumery endures, celebrated for his innovative products and understanding of consumer preferences.

Illustrated London and Its Representatives of Commerce, 1893:

MESSRS. J. GROSSMITH, SON & CO, MANUFACTURING PERFUMERS, 85, NEWGATE STREET, EC. THE interesting art of the perfumer has for over half a century been admirably exemplified by the well-known firm named above. Messrs. Grossmith's business was founded in the year 1838, and has been one of the most successful concerns of its kind in London. The firm are wholesale and export distillers of perfumes, and makers of toilet soaps, and occupy spacious and handsomely appointed premises in Newgate Street, the large and well-fitted show-rooms containing a most attractive and varied stock of perfumes, soaps, and toilet requisites. These goods are of the choicest quality, and among them are many specialities, the fame of which is international. Messrs Grossmith's celebrated "Blue Label Specialties" are particularly well known, both at home and abroad, as high-class productions of a very superior character, and the increasing demand for them constitutes an indisputable testimony as to their excellence. They include many varieties of perfumes and bouquets for the handkerchief and toilet - musk, lavender, brilliantine, an exquisite series of pomades, and a choice selection of cosmetiques. All these goods are prepared with the greatest care and skill from the finest ingredients, and there are no articles of the kind which stand higher in public estimation. Special mention is due to this firm's new "Japanese" Specialities, chief among which is "Hasu-no-Hana," a concentrated extract of marvellous fragrance, embodying the beautiful and distinctive odour of the lotus lily of Japan. The firm also produce "Hasu-no-Hana" Soap, "Hasu-no-Hana" Dentifrice, and "Hasu-no-Hana" Sachet for scenting stationery, gloves, cabinets, & c. The "Verus Naturae" Specialities (concentrated and true to nature) comprise a number of exquisite perfumes, the product of very choice and delicate flowers, such as lily of the valley, white lilac, mimosa, may blossoms, & c., and Messrs. Grossmith show a number of new "Indian Specialities," including their unique and fascinating "Phul-Nana." the bouquet par excellence for ball room or theatre. All kinds of flavouring extracts and fixed and essential oils are likewise among the productions of this noted house, and the stock held at the Newgate Street establishment is replete with attractive novelties in toilet articles, & c. Many important awards have been gained by the firm at leading exhibitions, and the trade controlled may be said to extend to well nigh all parts of the world.. Conspicuous enterprise and ability are displayed in the management of this old established and thoroughly representative business, which continues to maintain its accustomed position among the recognised leaders of a most interesting and scientific trade." 

In the 19th century, John Grossmith formed partnerships with J. Thompson, CT. Stafford, and E.M. Weston, focusing on importing essential oils for their perfumery business, as seen in newspaper ads.

The dissolution of the partnerships between J. Grossmith & J. Thompson with CT. Stafford in 1855, and later with J.L. Grossmith & E.M. Weston in 1874, marked significant transitions for the company. These changes likely signaled shifts in organizational structure or business focus. Despite being initially listed as perfumers on Newgate Street, their continued listing as essential oil importers in 1875, post-dissolution, suggests a potential error or oversight.

Discrepancies in historical listings like those seen with Grossmith and Weston in 1875 are not uncommon, often stemming from administrative delays or reporting inaccuracies. Such delays could explain why former partnerships continued to be listed together post-dissolution. It's also plausible that despite formally dissolving their partnership, Grossmith and Weston maintained business ties through shared suppliers or industry networks. This period marked a pivotal moment in their perfumery ventures, potentially leading to new opportunities or directions.

Expansion:

Grossmith's 19th-century enterprise thrived with global expansion, establishing depots across Europe, Asia, Africa, and North America. These hubs efficiently distributed their luxurious fragrances and soaps, expanding their customer base worldwide and solidifying their reputation as a leader in perfumery. This strategic move capitalized on international demand, demonstrating Grossmith's adaptability and entrepreneurial spirit in navigating diverse markets and regulatory landscapes.

Bruno Court:

Bruno Court, from the influential Court family in Grasse, played a key role in advancing the perfume industry in the renowned fragrance capital. Grasse’s reputation for producing premium fragrances and botanical extracts was bolstered by the Court family’s expertise in cultivating and distilling aromatic plants. Their contributions were pivotal in establishing Grasse as a global center of perfumery excellence.

In the context of Grossmith perfumery, Bruno Court’s connection underscores the historical relationship between perfumers and raw material suppliers. Grossmith sourced essential oils from the Court family's operations in Grasse during its early years, benefiting from their high-quality ingredients.

Beyond supplying raw materials, Bruno Court’s expertise in extraction and distillation techniques influenced perfumery practices worldwide, fostering innovation in fragrance creation. Grossmith’s decision to send staff to Grasse for perfumery training further enriched their craftsmanship and contributed to their success in producing sophisticated perfumes.

Overall, Bruno Court and the Court family’s legacy in Grasse exemplify their profound impact on perfumery, shaping the art and industry globally.

The partnership between J. Grossmith & Son and Grasse's esteemed essential oil house, Bruno Court, underscored Grossmith's dedication to sourcing top-tier ingredients and enhancing their perfumery expertise. Acting as Bruno Court's English agent, Grossmith gained access to premium essential oils and botanical extracts crucial for crafting fine fragrances.

This collaboration facilitated a valuable exchange of knowledge and resources, mutually benefiting both companies and advancing their perfumery pursuits. The conclusion of this partnership in 1923 marked a significant transition for Grossmith, signaling newfound independence and self-reliance. By then, Grossmith & Son had firmly established itself as a respected leader in the perfume industry, capable of thriving independently in a competitive market.

Fierce Competition:

Grossmith was among many esteemed perfumery brands in England. Others included Floris (est. 1730), Yardley (est. 1770), Pears (est. 1789), Breidenbach (est. 1793), Atkinson's (est. 1799), Rimmel (est. 1834), Piesse & Lubin (est. 1855), Penhaligon's (est. 1860s), and The Crown Perfumery (est. 1872), all of which rose to become revered names in the nation's perfumery landscape.

The rich history of English perfumery is highlighted by iconic houses like Floris, established in 1730, and Penhaligon's, emerging in the 1860s, each contributing uniquely to the industry's evolution and diversity.

John Grossmith's distinction at the Great Exhibition of 1851, where he was the sole English perfumer honored, underscored the quality and innovation of his creations. This recognition significantly bolstered Grossmith's reputation among the nation's esteemed perfumery brands.

Subsequent international awards and medals further affirmed Grossmith's commitment to excellence, cementing its status as a leader in fine fragrances. Amid a competitive landscape, Grossmith's enduring legacy is marked by its ability to stand out through craftsmanship, innovation, and global acclaim.

 In the competitive landscape of English perfumeries like Grossmith, they faced formidable competition from France, renowned as the "queen of perfume" during the 19th century. French perfumers were celebrated for their mastery of fragrance creation, offering highly coveted scents and luxurious formulations.

For English perfumeries, overcoming the prestige of French perfumes posed a significant challenge. The public's strong preference for French products created a barrier for English perfumers striving to establish themselves globally.

To compete, English companies such as Grossmith focused on producing high-quality products domestically. This involved sourcing top-tier ingredients, employing skilled perfumers, and maintaining rigorous standards of craftsmanship and formulation.

Despite the dominance of French perfumery, English companies leveraged their strengths, drawing inspiration from England's natural landscape and traditional scents. This approach allowed them to carve out a unique niche and appeal to consumers seeking alternatives to French offerings.

In navigating this competitive environment, English perfumeries like Grossmith balanced tradition and innovation, striving to meet the high standards set by their French counterparts while cultivating their distinct identities in the global market.

Charles Lillie's "The British Perfumer," published in 1758, significantly advanced the field of perfumery during the 18th century. This comprehensive work offered detailed formulas for fragrances, toiletries, and scented products, serving as a valuable resource for perfumers of the era.

Lillie's book covered essential topics such as ingredient sourcing, extraction methods, and blending techniques, providing practical guidance for both novice and experienced perfumers. Its systematic approach helped standardize practices within the industry, enabling perfumers to expand their repertoire and refine their skills.

"The British Perfumer" played a pivotal role in promoting British perfumery as a respected industry. By sharing his expertise, Lillie contributed to the growth and innovation of perfumery in Britain and beyond, cementing its place in the global market.

A Taste for Simplicity:

During the Victorian era, there was a trend for simple floral and animalic perfumes. However, perfumers began to explore blends of multiple essences, known as "bouquet" perfumes. Common single essence perfumes included Musk, Ambre, Jasmin, Heliotrope, Crab Apple Blossom, Honeysuckle, Magnolia, Tea Rose, Mignonette, Frangipanni, Stephanotis, Violette, Gardenia, Tuberose, Lavender, White Rose, Lily of the Valley, Patchouli, Moss Rose, Carnation, Opoponax, Sandalwood, Hyacinth, Marechal Niel, and Ylang Ylang. This list of single essence perfumes illustrates the diverse botanical and aromatic ingredients popular during this era. Each essence offered a distinctive scent profile, enabling perfumers to craft a variety of fragrances tailored to different tastes and occasions.

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The Victorian era witnessed a significant shift in perfumery from simple floral or animalic scents to complex "bouquet" perfumes. Perfumers embraced innovation by blending multiple essences to create intricate, multi-layered fragrances tailored to sophisticated tastes.

These "bouquet" perfumes combined individual essences harmoniously, resulting in rich and nuanced scents often named after fantasy themes or notable figures. Examples like Kiss-Me-Quick, Stolen Kisses, Bouquet du Roi, Prince's Bouquet, Millefleurs, Ess. Bouquet, Spring Flowers, Naval Bouquet, Jockey Club, Upper Ten, Chypre, Peau d'Espagne, and New Mown Hay reflected the perfumers' creativity and added allure to their creations.

This era marked a pivotal moment in perfumery, where complexity and sophistication became central, pushing the boundaries of traditional fragrance and shaping the diverse perfumes enjoyed today.

Mr. Grossmith noted, "To gauge public demand for perfumes is challenging. Individuals react differently to scents; what's pleasing to one may be unpleasant to another due to varying olfactory sensitivity." He highlighted the complexities perfumers face in crafting scents that resonate universally.

Grossmith introduced the "Verus Naturae Specialties" in 1891, a collection of twelve concentrated single floral perfumes aimed at capturing the pure essence of delicate flowers. This line exemplifies Grossmith's pursuit of quality and authenticity, emphasizing scents that are "true to nature." he line included: Lily of the Valley, White Lilac, Mimosa, May Blossoms, Narcissus, Linden Bloom, English Lilac, Musk Rose, Mignonette, Wallflower, Parma Violet and Cherry Pie (heliotrope). A few other scents were added to the line such as Wild Cherry, Sweet Daphne, and Orange Blossom. Each perfume reflects meticulous craftsmanship and uses high-quality ingredients to faithfully recreate natural fragrances.

 

Grossmith's concentrated formulas offer enhanced value, providing a longer-lasting fragrance experience with minimal application. This commitment to perfection and authenticity in single floral perfumes reflects Grossmith's understanding of customer preferences for high-quality, true-to-nature scents.

In the 19th century, perfumers often sold perfumes under identical names due to reliance on a few accessible books containing basic perfume formulas. These books served as essential references, offering recipes and techniques for creating diverse fragrances.

 During the 19th century, many perfumers relied on a few common books with basic perfume formulas, leading to multiple perfumes sharing the same or similar names. This practice resulted in a proliferation of identical or similar fragrances in the market, making it challenging for consumers to differentiate based solely on the name.

Despite using foundational formulas, individual perfumers added their own unique twists through the quality of ingredients, blending techniques, or branding and packaging. These subtle variations allowed each perfumer to distinguish their version of a perfume, establishing their own niche in the market.

While the reliance on accessible books contributed to a degree of homogeneity in 19th-century fragrances, it also spurred creativity as perfumers innovated to stand out in a competitive marketplace.

In the 18th century, perfumers initially started with basic formulas found in books like "The British Perfumer," but they often modified these recipes to craft unique blends. By adjusting ingredients, proportions, or incorporating new techniques, perfumers could create signature scents that reflected their individual style and expertise.

These modifications ranged from subtle adjustments to significant changes, allowing perfumers to appeal to specific consumer preferences and tastes. This adaptability and innovation enabled them to develop distinctive fragrances that set them apart in the competitive perfume industry of the time.

Names such as Rose, Musk, and Spring Blossoms were popular themes in fragrances during this era, appealing broadly to consumers. However, each perfumer added their own creative touch to these familiar themes, ensuring their perfumes stood out as unique and memorable choices.

Perfumers like Grossmith likely drew inspiration from formulary books, which provided foundational knowledge and adaptable recipes. They combined traditional formulas with personal experimentation to craft unique fragrances that stood out in a competitive market while appealing to popular tastes. Keeping personal notebooks of successful formulas was a common practice among perfumers, serving as a valuable reference for inspiration and replication of past successes.

These notebooks documented ingredient proportions, blending techniques, and other crucial details, ensuring consistency and quality in perfumes. For Grossmith, maintaining such a personal book reflected his expertise and creativity, showcasing his unique approach to fragrance creation and contributing to the longevity of his celebrated perfumes.

At the turn of the 20th century, Grossmith introduced a new series of floral-based perfumes: Na-i, Florodora, Orchidor, Odoralis, Trefolia, and Florisis.

The Sphere, 1909:

"Orchidor perfume, which incorporates as it were the very essence of sweet - smelling country fields when flower;laden in June...a second novelty this season, exquisitely fragrant, whilst the acme of fragrance and perfection is reached in the Na-i perfume, a bottle of which enclosed in a lovely silken casket."

In 1899, the musical comedy "Florodora" premiered at London's Lyric Theatre, featuring a renowned double sextet and a chorus line of elegant "Florodora Girls" in distinctive pink walking costumes with black picture hats and frilly parasols. The storyline centered on the fictional Philippine Island of Florodora, where a popular fragrance of the same name was made from the essence of the Florodora flower.

To coincide with the musical's debut, Grossmith launched his Florodora perfume. In collaboration with the musical's producers, Grossmith offered this bespoke fragrance at the theatre, distributing samples to patrons as a tangible souvenir. The refreshing scent of Florodora was described as evoking the essence of a lush, herbaceous garden in June. Source: The Era, 1899

The Illustrated London News highlighted Grossmith Son and Co.'s Florodora fragrance as embodying delicacy and sweetness, available in perfume, soap, and toilet powder forms, perfect for ladies' use.

According to the Daily Mirror in 1910, scents like Shem-el-Nessim, Hasu-no-Hana, Phul-Nana, and Floradora were meticulously crafted, reflecting Grossmith's expertise and careful consideration in creating exquisite aromas.

 

 

Eau de Cologne & Lavender Water:

John Grossmith's farming heritage adds depth to his perfumery journey, reflecting a natural inclination towards botanicals and fragrances. His products like Old Cottage Lavender Water and Old English Lavender Water, distilled from Mitcham lavender, were versatile and beloved. Lavender water, akin to Eau de Cologne, was cherished for its refreshing and soothing properties, ideal for personal use and household applications.

Grossmith's preference for Mitcham lavender underscores their dedication to sourcing the finest ingredients. Mitcham lavender, renowned for its superior fragrance and therapeutic benefits, was highly esteemed among perfumers and consumers alike. Old Cottage Lavender Water's timeless appeal made it suitable for all genders, thanks to lavender's clean and calming aroma, which transcends demographics and remains universally cherished.

Boxmakers' Journal and Packaging Review - Volume 64, 1940:

"Grossmith's New Lavender Water Bottles. Made of green glass to protect its contents from the effects of strong light, Grossmith's new Lavender Water bottle is acknowledged to be one of the best in its class , and it is certainly among the most distinctive. Gothic in form, its striking appearance is emphasized by a novel shape of plastic closure, specially designed to follow the bottle lines, whilst a simple display unit decorated with sprigs of lavender sets the whole off to advantage."

Grossmith's Old Cottage Lavender Water, cherished until the 1980s, maintained its popularity due to its quality and appeal. Its enduring presence underscores its status as a beloved classic, alongside other iconic lavender fragrances such as Yardley's Old English Lavender. The bottle, made of green glass to protect from light, featured a gothic shape and a unique plastic closure designed to complement its aesthetic, enhancing its distinctive appeal on display units adorned with lavender sprigs. 

Overall, Old Cottage Lavender Water embodies a cherished tradition of English perfumery, capturing the essence of England's Mitcham lavender to create a timeless and beloved scent that endures through the ages.

In 1851 advertisements, John Grossmith's name was sometimes spelled as "Johann," particularly when promoting his Eau de Cologne, likely to evoke associations with the esteemed "Johann Maria Farina." This dual spelling strategy aimed to enhance Grossmith's brand image with a sense of tradition and sophistication.

Grossmith also offered two other Eau de Colognes: Crystal Eau de Cologne, named possibly after the Crystal Palace where he received a prize medal in 1851, and Golden Still. These colognes highlighted their versatility during the Victorian era, valued not only for their refreshing fragrance but also for their medicinal applications.

In the sickroom, Eau de Cologne was prized for its ability to refresh the air and uplift spirits, offering relief from discomfort associated with illness. Its clean scent was believed to soothe headaches and nerves, promoting a calming effect.

Grossmith's Golden Still, like other Eau de Colognes of its time, featured invigorating citrus, floral, and herbal notes. Its formulation included neroli, citron, petitgrain, and orange zest, with herbaceous verbena and lavender at its heart, complemented by rose, cedar, and Mysore sandalwood. The line also included toilet soap, bath crystals, and tooth powder, packaged similarly to Mulhens' 4711.

Overall, Eau de Cologne served a dual purpose in Victorian society, functioning both as a luxurious personal fragrance and a practical remedy for common ailments. Grossmith's Golden Still, known for its refreshing and soothing qualities, provided comfort and relief in households during times of illness or distress.

The Flair for Oriental Perfumes:

John Grossmith died in 1867, and his son, John Lipscomb Grossmith, took over the family business. Born in 1843, he apprenticed as a perfumer under Bruno Court in Grasse, following his father's path. During his tenure, Grossmith Perfumery created a notable collection of classic English perfumes, including the renowned oriental florals: Hasu-no-Hana, Phũl-Nãnã, and Shem-el-Nessim.

During the 19th century, Western society was captivated by the exoticism of the Far East. This fascination, known as Orientalism, influenced everything from household items like crockery and furniture to art, textiles, and fashion, incorporating motifs from China, Japan, India, Egypt, and the Middle East into everyday life.

Inspired by his fascination with the Orient, John Lipscomb Grossmith created perfumes that reflected his personal vision of the East. The inaugural fragrance of his "Oriental Series" was Hasu-no-Hana, introduced in 1888. This perfume was designed to capture the captivating aroma of the Japanese lotus blossom. Grossmith promoted his shop as the "Emporium of Oriental Odours" in an 1889 advertisement, enticing customers with the promise that inhaling these scents could transport them to distant lands only imagined or read about in books.

In 1895, John Lipscomb Grossmith showcased Grossmith & Son's perfumes at the Olympia Theatre in London during the extravagant production "The Orient, Or An Embassy to the East." Organized by Bolossy Kiralfy, the event was billed as "The Grandest Show On Earth" and featured 2500 performers, including African dancers and daring acrobatic feats. Grossmith's exhibition booth was designed as a faithful replica of an Eastern bazaar, adorned with luxurious Eastern-inspired decor. It highlighted their perfumes like Phul-Nanā, evoking Indian flowers, and Hasu-no-Hana, capturing the scent of Japanese lotus lily, reflecting Grossmith's mastery of exotic fragrances.

In 1891, Grossmith introduced Phul-Nana, a companion perfume to Hasu-no-Hana, continuing their Eastern-inspired line. Distilled from India's finest flowers, Phul-Nana exuded a distinctive scent reminiscent of the champaca flower. Grossmith recommended it for elegant occasions like ballrooms or theatres, describing it as a rich essence evoking memories of India's lush landscapes and fragrant blossoms.

In 1906, Grossmith released "Shem-el-Nessim," inspired by an Arabian festival. It took nearly two years of scientific study and research to develop. In 1914, they launched "Wana-Ranee," capturing the essence of Ceylon (modern-day Sri Lanka).

Around 1917, Grossmith introduced two oriental perfumes, Geisha and Nu Betsu, but detailed information about these remains elusive. The final addition to the Oriental series, Tsang Ihang, launched in 1922, pronounced "sang yang," it was said to be the sweet perfume of Tibet.

The Illustrated London News of 1925 praised Grossmith's Tsang Ihang as a captivating perfume inspired by ancient Tibet. It was noted for its delicate and mysterious fragrance, appealing to enthusiasts of Eastern scents. The line included various affordable products like face powder, toilet cream, soap, bath tablets, shampoo, and powders, making it accessible through chemists and perfumers, ideal for holiday gifting.

Oriental Series:

• 1887: Hasu-No-Hana - Perfume of the fragrant Lotus of Japan
• 1890: Phul-Nana - Bouquet of India's Choicest Flowers
• 1907: Shem-el-Nessim - Perfume of Araby
• 1914: Wana-Ranee - Perfume of Ceylon
• 1917: Nu Betsu
• 1917: Geisha
• 1922: Tsang-Ihang - Sweet Perfume of Thibet

Phul-Nana, Shem-el-Nessim, Hasu-no-Hana, and Tsang-Ihang were each accompanied by a full range of complementary products. These included face powder, toilet water, soaps, bath salts, dentifrice, sachets, and breath sweeteners (cachous), all designed to be used together. The sachets were recommended for sprinkling on stationary, inside gloves, and in cabinets, enhancing their use beyond personal fragrance.

Attention to Detail:

Grossmith recognized the allure of attractive packaging in influencing initial purchases. His fragrances featured richly colored paper labels and were elegantly presented in decorative boxes. Some perfumes were sold in luxurious Baccarat crystal flacons from France, while others came in ornate pressed glass bottles crafted in England and Germany. Each bottle was sealed with an hermetic membrane over glass stoppers, secured with kid leather or silk and adorned with silken ribbons, enhancing their appeal and exclusivity.

In 1897, Mr. J.L. Grossmith emphasized the challenges of the perfumery trade, describing it as requiring immense art, care, and labor. He lamented the constant battle against competitors who produced inferior imitations of their creations, copying labels, designs, and bottle shapes. Grossmith cited examples with their Phul-Nana and Hasu-no-Hana perfumes, prompting legal action to protect their innovations despite the harm caused by such infringements.

The photo below showcases an elegant domed casket housing two antique J. Grossmith & Sons perfume bottles. Clad in red morocco leather with brass lettering spelling "SCENT," its interior is lined with felt and features a divided compartment ensuring bottle security during travel. Each bottle retains its original paper label, one marked "White Rose" and the other "The Jockey Club." This artifact exemplifies the premium quality offerings found in Grossmith's showroom.

The covers of perfume boxes were opulently colored, embossed with intricate designs, or adorned with delicate gilt details. Luxury gift sets were housed in decorative cases crafted from silk, Moroccan leather, plush velvet, or leatherette. Lined with sumptuous silk, these cases cradled gleaming glass bottles containing precious extracts. Some gift boxes featured two or three bottles, possibly accompanied by soap or powder in matching scents. Their Art Nouveau-inspired designs rivaled the refinement of French counterparts, exemplifying the beauty of turn-of-the-century presentation sets.

Baccarat Flacons:

The use of Baccarat crystal bottles by Grossmith highlights their dedication to luxury and craftsmanship, enhancing both the fragrances and their presentation. These bottles, known for their intricate design and precision, epitomize Grossmith's commitment to meticulous detail. The 1909 advertisement below showcases one of these classic Baccarat crystal flacons, emphasizing their timeless elegance and quality. 

In 1919, Grossmith commissioned a new crystal flacon believed to be Baccarat model #398, which coincidentally debuted the same year. This design, noted in the "Baccarat Perfume Bottles" book without a specific brand, suggests it was widely used. Grossmith's order of 1,000 bottles exemplifies their commitment to luxury and quality presentation.

The bottle features a square shape with truncated corners, creating an octagonal look that adds sophistication. Its stopper, a multifaceted ball known as a lapidary stopper, is meticulously crafted to catch and reflect light, enhancing its visual appeal. Precision grinding ensures a tight fit, crucial for preserving the fragrance's integrity.

Each bottle and stopper are inscribed with matching numbers, a meticulous process to ensure perfect assembly and quality control. This attention to detail underscores Grossmith's dedication to craftsmanship and excellence. The exclusive use of Baccarat crystal elevates the prestige of Grossmith perfumes, appealing to discerning customers seeking luxury experiences.

Overall, Grossmith's choice of Baccarat model #398 bottles reflects their historical commitment to elegance and quality in perfumery, enhancing both the presentation and perceived value of their fragrances. 

Ancillary Products:

Pairing complementary products with popular perfumes in coordinated packaging enhances the shopping experience, encourages exploration of additional items, and boosts sales potential while elevating customer satisfaction. This approach not only adds a sense of luxury and completeness but also caters to consumers seeking a cohesive and well-rounded experience. For instance, Grossmith's perfumes like Phul-Nana, Shem-el-Nessim, Hasu-no-Hana, and Tsang-Ihang were accompanied by a full range of ancillary products such as face powder, cream, hair lotion, brilliantine, toilet water, soaps, bath salts, dentifrice, sachet packets, and breath sweeteners, facilitating what we now call "layering" in fragrance application.

Marketing:

Detailed advertising plays a crucial role in the competitive world of perfumery, effectively engaging both existing and potential customers by showcasing the latest offerings with meticulous attention to detail. These advertisements highlight the quality and craftsmanship of Grossmith's products, distinguishing them in the luxury market and enticing consumers with unique features and benefits. By regularly introducing new additions to their lineup, Grossmith not only maintains customer engagement but also builds anticipation and loyalty, keeping the brand fresh and relevant. Additionally, using Oriental-inspired illustrations in their advertising creates an allure of opulent exoticism and exclusivity, appealing strongly to the public's fascination with the East.

Beyond traditional advertising, Grossmith cleverly distributed trade cards sprayed with their latest scents, offering potential customers a tactile and sensory experience that leaves a lasting olfactory impression. This strategy allows individuals to directly connect with the fragrance, enhancing brand recall and increasing the likelihood of future purchases. Moreover, offering perfume samples in exchange for these cards encourages trial and potential sales, as customers can experience the scent at their convenience. Such initiatives not only promote the brand effectively but also contribute to charitable causes when proceeds from card sales are donated locally.

The glazed pottery statues by Royal Doulton, specifically designed for Grossmith's Tsang-Ihang perfume, were striking promotional items. Designed by Arthur "Leslie" Harradine, the 11.75" tall figure of a Chinese lady in a yellow costume adorned with blue and red poppies, perched on a black base, prominently displayed the perfume's name. These statues were placed on counters in prestigious perfumeries like Harrods and Selfridges, serving as artistic conversation pieces that captured consumers' attention and left a lasting impression. Similar decorative figures by Royal Doulton were also used by Yardley of London for their "Old English Lavender" fragrance, demonstrating the effectiveness of such visually appealing promotional strategies in the perfume industry.e.   

Grossmith's historical advertisements are prized by collectors for their artistic value and as windows into the brand's innovative marketing techniques. These artifacts not only document the brand's creativity but also highlight its commitment to craftsmanship and quality. In a 1897 interview with the British Trade Journal, John L. Grossmith emphasized the importance of a perfumer's trained nose in distinguishing and understanding the complex blends of perfumes. He noted his son Stanley's education in Grasse, known for its perfume industry, to cultivate this essential skill and master the initial manufacturing processes of perfume essences.

Royal Patronage:

Grossmith's success and prestige stemmed from its unwavering commitment to using the finest raw materials and applying meticulous craftsmanship throughout its production process. This dedication to quality, from sourcing ingredients to packaging, earned Grossmith a reputation for excellence among discerning consumers. This commitment was recognized with royal warrants from Queen Alexandra and foreign royal courts, such as Greece and Spain, highlighting Grossmith's status as a provider of luxury and sophistication.tication.

Royal patronage bestowed upon Grossmith by members of the monarchy signaled its esteemed reputation and alignment with the highest standards of taste and elegance. Endorsement from royalty added prestige and exclusivity to Grossmith's products, solidifying its position as a leading perfumery in England and abroad.

For consumers, purchasing Grossmith perfumes with royal warrants represented sophistication and status. This endorsement elevated the act of wearing or gifting these fragrances, making them desirable among elite clientele and enhancing Grossmith's brand image.

Grossmith's creation of custom perfumes for royal events showcased their creativity and commitment to honoring significant moments. These bespoke perfumes not only captured the essence of the occasion but also became treasured mementos for those fortunate to possess them.

Grossmith's creation of Victorian Bouquet for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee exemplified their dedication to crafting perfumes that honored the British Empire's heritage. Described as "the National Perfume," it blended exotic odors from across the realm, paying homage to its diverse botanical riches.

This fragrance was a tribute to Queen Victoria's historic reign, capturing the essence of the Diamond Jubilee in a sensory experience. The bottles of these perfumes became cherished souvenirs, preserving the memory of the occasion long after the scent had faded.

Grossmith's attention to detail in both fragrance composition and bottle design, such as the orb-shaped bottle with a Matese Cross stopper, symbolized sovereignty and unity, reflecting the significance of the Diamond Jubilee. The presentation case in blushing pink and emerald crystal added opulence and elegance, fitting for such a commemoration.

The paper label adorned with symbols like the rose, thistle, shamrock, and Queen Victoria's portrait further connected the perfume to the British Empire's cultural identity. This meticulous craftsmanship not only showcased Grossmith's perfumery expertise but also evoked a sense of grandeur and celebration befitting the occasion.

Overall, Victorian Bouquet by Grossmith blended history, artistry, and emotion into a luxurious olfactory experience, making it a fitting tribute to Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee and a testament to Grossmith's legacy as master perfumers.

The Westminster Budget, 1897:

"The Diamond Jubilee enthusiasm is bursting out in out in innumerable forms. There is not a show-window in London which has not some article or other made on purpose for this year of jubilee. There are flags and banners, kerchiefs and sashes, hat-bands and umbrella-handles, to say nothing of all the crockery which bears the face of the Queen. One fails, in some cases, to see the appropriateness of an article of this sort, but this is not the case with the perfumes which Messers. J. Grossmith, Son and Co., of 29, Newgate-street, London, are putting into the market. The firm's specialties for the toilet are too well known to need special recommendation, and to all the perfumes, sachets, soaps, & , they have now added a Victorian Floral Sachet of delicious fragrance, and the daintiest of bottles of rose-perfume of "undying fragrance." The bottle has a special case in rose colour and gold, and it would be difficult to find a souvenir of the great event of the year that would be prettier and more appropriate as a gift to a girl or a woman of taste than one of these cases of scent, which are both elegant and useful. "

Queen Alexandra received a bottle of Phul-Nana in 1895, marking the beginning of her patronage which lasted for years. Grossmith proudly acknowledged this association, even after her passing. In the 1930s, their newspaper advertisements continued to carry the endorsement "By Appointment to Her Late Majesty, Queen Alexandra."

Creating "Regal" for King Edward VII's accession showcased Grossmith's commitment to tradition and honoring significant royal events. Just as they did for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, Grossmith seized the opportunity to commemorate this occasion with a fragrance embodying royalty, elegance, and majesty. The name "Regal" aptly reflects the perfume's purpose in celebrating the new monarch, crafted to evoke grandeur and sophistication tailored to the refined tastes of the royal court. Like their earlier commemorative perfumes, Grossmith spared no detail in the design of Regal, ensuring every aspect from the bottle to the label and presentation case conveyed prestige and significance. In creating Regal, Grossmith continued their legacy of capturing history and tradition in fragrance, demonstrating their artistry and commitment to honoring the monarchy and the UK's cultural heritage.

The creation of "Betrothal" perfume in 1893 to commemorate the engagement of the Duke of York and Princess May showcases Grossmith's talent for capturing the sentimentality and romance of significant royal events. Named to evoke the promise and anticipation of love and commitment, "Betrothal" was crafted as a lovely sweet floral fragrance, designed to embody the joy and celebration surrounding the royal couple's impending union.

This perfume garnered acclaim within the trade and became a fitting tribute to Princess May's marriage to the Duke of York. Its delicate floral notes added an extra layer of elegance and romance to the royal wedding festivities, leaving a lasting impression on guests.

Grossmith's ability to translate the emotions of such important events into beautifully crafted fragrances underscores their skill and artistry in perfumery. Their close ties with the royal family, including personal interactions during visits to essential oil houses like Bruno Court, further solidified Grossmith's reputation as a preferred supplier for royal occasions. The dedication of "Betrothal" to Princess May exemplifies Grossmith's commitment to honoring and commemorating significant moments in history with exquisite perfumes.

The presentation of the Betrothal perfume bottle to Princess May exemplifies Grossmith's dedication to luxury and elegance. The bottle, specially cut and adorned with a massive gold top, exudes opulence fitting for the occasion. Housed in a silk-lined morocco leather case, the perfume is presented as a prestigious gift, emphasizing its exclusivity and craftsmanship.

Princess May's acceptance of the bottle, conveyed in a letter of thanks to Grossmith, underscores her appreciation and the esteem in which Grossmith's creations were held within royal circles. This gesture not only acknowledges the significance of the gift but also reflects Grossmith's role as a purveyor of refined perfumes that inspire joy and delight.

Grossmith's registration of Betrothal perfume as a trademark underscored their commitment to brand protection and exclusivity. By securing the trademark, Grossmith aimed to distinguish their perfume from competitors and maintain control over its production and distribution.

The phrase "loyal subjects will find it a duty and a pleasure to odorize themselves with the same perfume" highlighted Grossmith's aspiration to associate Betrothal with patriotism and loyalty to the crown. This strategic alignment with royal events and figures aimed to foster a sense of pride and allegiance among consumers, encouraging them to choose Betrothal as a symbol of their connection to the monarchy.

To cater to various preferences and budgets, Grossmith offered Betrothal perfume in three sizes: 1.5 oz, 3 oz, and 6 oz bottles. This range ensured accessibility, allowing consumers to indulge in the luxurious fragrance of Betrothal according to their needs or to gift it to loved ones.

In summary, Grossmith's trademark registration and diverse product offerings for Betrothal perfume exemplify their strategic branding efforts. By leveraging royal associations and providing options that catered to different consumers, Grossmith aimed to enhance the appeal and accessibility of Betrothal, solidifying its reputation as a prestigious and sought-after fragrance.

The Westminster Budget, 1893, highlighted the widespread appeal of Grossmith's "Betrothal" perfume, initially created to celebrate the Duke and Duchess of York's marriage. Available to the public in elegant cases, it was not exclusive to royalty. Mr. Grossmith's personal connection to Princess May, formed during her visit to a perfumery in Grasse, Southern France, solidified the perfume's association with the royal family. The article praised Grossmith's diverse range, including the distinct fragrances of Hasu-no-Hana and Phul-Nana, each capturing the essence of its floral source with exquisite presentation in alluring cases.

Awards & Accolades:

John Grossmith's accolades at the Great Exhibition of 1851 marked a pivotal moment, where his perfumery earned a prestigious medal, distinguishing him as England's sole recipient and solidifying Grossmith's prominence. Subsequent international exhibitions in Brussels, Amsterdam, Paris, London, and Milan further underscored Grossmith's leadership in perfumery, garnering multiple medals that enhanced the brand's prestige, spurred global demand, and facilitated expansion across continents.

• Brussels: Grossmith received two medals, recognizing the brand's excellence and contribution to the perfumery industry.
• Amsterdam: The brand was honored with one medal, affirming its quality and innovation.
• Paris: Grossmith won two medals, underscoring its appeal and recognition in one of the world's fashion and fragrance capitals.
• London: Two additional medals were awarded in the brand's home city, solidifying its status as a top English perfumer.
• Milan: Grossmith also received a medal in Milan, highlighting its international acclaim and influence.

The Factory & Premises:

The expansion and relocation of Grossmith's premises highlight the company's growth and success in perfumery. Starting with wholesale premises at 24 Cannon Street in 1841, Grossmith Sr. laid the foundation for a thriving enterprise. The subsequent move to 39 Friday Street, Cheapside, London before 1851 reflected the company's expanding operations and need for larger facilities, establishing a more prominent presence in London's commercial district and positioning them for continued growth.

Subsequent moves to 85 and later 29 Newgate Street reflect Grossmith's ongoing expansion and evolution as a leading perfumery firm. Each relocation likely represented strategic decisions to enhance visibility, accessibility, and operational efficiency. The employment of a large staff and the establishment of a bonded factory at Red Lion Wharf, Thames Street, EC, demonstrate Grossmith's commitment to quality and craftsmanship. By overseeing the entire production process, from sourcing raw materials to distillation and refinement, Grossmith ensured the integrity and excellence of their perfumes and perfumed soap. 

Grossmith's journey from humble beginnings to an established perfumery firm is a testament to their vision, innovation, and dedication to creating exceptional fragrances and products. The company's relocations and expansions reflect their ability to adapt and thrive in an ever-changing market.

The move from 85 to 29 Newgate Street in 1895 marked a significant milestone, driven by practical and strategic considerations. The advance of the Central Railway Company's tube railway necessitated this relocation. By moving opposite the new central railway station, Grossmith capitalized on increased foot traffic and accessibility.

The new premises provided 2,800 square feet more space, addressing the cramped conditions at the old location. Modern amenities such as a back entrance, rolling way, and lift improved operational efficiency. The new building's imposing architecture, with dual frontages for advertising, enhanced visibility and brand exposure.

The comprehensive refitting of No. 29 to suit Grossmith's specialized needs showcased their commitment to innovation. The building, stretching from Newgate Street to Ivy Lane, featured new machinery and apparatus, optimizing production processes. Its strategic location and modern facilities reinforced Grossmith's presence in London's commercial district.

Overall, the relocation to No. 29 Newgate Street positioned Grossmith for continued success, providing the infrastructure and resources necessary for future growth. This move highlights their legacy of craftsmanship, innovation, and commitment to excellence.

Grossmith's meticulous attention to detail in the construction and amenities of the building at No. 29 Newgate Street reflects a commitment to a safe, comfortable, and productive work environment. The adoption of fireproof construction and electricity for lighting, a relatively new technology at the time, showcased Grossmith's dedication to modernity and innovation.

Ventilation systems were installed based on the "most approved system," ensuring optimal air quality and circulation. This focus on environmental factors like air, light, and warmth promoted employee health and well-being, essential for long working hours.

Grossmith's concern for employee welfare extended to amenities such as a large recreation room, fully equipped kitchen, cloakroom with wardrobes and lockers, and elaborate lavatories. These facilities enhanced the quality of life for employees, reflecting Grossmith's belief in providing more than just bare necessities. J.L. Grossmith's statement, "My people and I spend about a third of our lives here; why should we not have something better than bare walls, a cheap desk, and a shabby floor?" to Chemist & Druggist magazine highlights this commitment.

The integration of modern conveniences, like aerial tubes for product transfer and state-of-the-art laboratory facilities, exemplifies Grossmith's commitment to efficiency and innovation. This streamlined workflow minimized manual handling, reducing contamination risk and speeding up production processes.

Grossmith's systematic approach to production involved distillation on the old premises, product transfer via aerial tubes, and thorough testing in the laboratory. Products were then moved to the bottling department, finishing rooms for final touches, and finally to the stockroom or dispatch department for distribution. This method ensured high standards of quality and efficiency.

The ground floor of the building served as a show or sample-room, designed in a medieval style with solid hand-carved oak woodwork, creating a sophisticated first impression. The first floor housed clerks' offices, the counting house, and the private offices of the managing clerk and Mr. Grossmith, serving as the administrative hub.

Grossmith's journey from humble beginnings to a prominent perfumery firm is a testament to their vision, innovation, and dedication to creating exceptional fragrances. Their strategic relocations and expansions, driven by both practical and aesthetic considerations, positioned them for continued success in the dynamic perfumery industry.

The second floor of Grossmith's building was dedicated to laboratories, mixing, and refrigerating departments, where the blending, filtering, and extraction of perfumes and other products took place. This floor represented the heart of Grossmith's production process, where skilled technicians and chemists worked to create and refine their signature fragrances and cosmetics.

The upper stories were reserved for various stages of production, including soap-drying, polishing, and packaging rooms. These floors were bustling with activity as workers filled, trimmed, and packaged perfume bottles, and created cosmetics, smelling salts, tooth powders, and toilet soaps. This multi-level approach to production allowed Grossmith to efficiently manage the various stages of manufacturing while ensuring the highest standards of quality and craftsmanship in their products.

Overall, the layout of Grossmith's building at No. 29 Newgate Street reflected a harmonious blend of form and function, combining practicality with aesthetic elegance to create a space that was both efficient and visually striking. It stands as a testament to Grossmith's dedication to excellence in every aspect of their business operations.

In the main building at No. 29 Newgate Street, sections were dedicated to storing materials essential for packaging and presentation, such as fancy presentation boxes, polychromed paper labels, and silky ribbons. The basement served as a vast store of bottles of various shapes and sizes, meticulously classified in neat compartments after being washed and tested. Specialized machinery was used to cut, stamp, or press soaps before they were transported by elevators to the packing departments. Additionally, the sample department prepared samples of high-class perfumes for distribution.

Another warehouse on Ivy Lane housed additional finishing and packing rooms, as well as storage for bottles, stoppers, caps, corks, labels, ribbons, leather coverings, and presentation boxes. Within these facilities, a large staff of girls and young women handled the bottling, capping, labeling, and packaging of perfumes and soaps with precision and care. Warehousemen on the ground floor managed the filling and dispatch of packages, ensuring smooth operations and timely delivery.

A third set of premises near the docks was dedicated to the export trade, where goods were packed and shipped in bond. This location facilitated the efficient handling of international shipments and ensured compliance with customs regulations.

Overall, Grossmith's extensive network of premises and facilities allowed for the seamless coordination of production, storage, and distribution activities, ensuring the timely delivery of high-quality products to customers both locally and internationally. This comprehensive approach reflects Grossmith's commitment to excellence and customer satisfaction in every aspect of their business operations.

According to the Daily Mirror in 1910: "A record of 75 years and a reputation of world-wide fame are the proud possessions of Messrs. J. Grossmith, Son & Co., wholesale perfumers, of Newgate-Street, London. The erection of a model factory, which is absolutely fireproof, having been demanded as a necessary extension of the firm's perfume premises, a souvenir of the opening of the factory and warehouse has been issued by the firm. It contains a detailed account of the way in which the business of extracting and perfecting the most delicious scents is carried out. How the soul of the flower is imprisoned makes excellent reading, too, to discover in what way the different blends of scent have been produced."

The Death of JL Grossmith:

John Lipscomb Grossmith led the business until his retirement in 1919, marking the end of an era. His departure initiated a significant transformation as the company transitioned from a partnership to a limited liability company. Following his passing in 1921, his son Stanley Grossmith, trained in perfumery like his father and grandfather, took over. However, Stanley's sudden death in 1924 at age 45 ended the family's direct involvement in the company.

Becoming a limited liability company offered advantages like increased access to capital, greater shareholder protection, and enhanced flexibility in governance. This shift allowed Grossmith to grow and compete more effectively in a changing market, while maintaining the family's legacy and influence.

The transition also marked a shift in management dynamics, with operations becoming more formalized under corporate governance. This change was essential for the company's evolving needs and aspirations, balancing continuity with modern business practices.

Overall, the transition to a limited liability company was a milestone, representing both continuity and change. It set the stage for Grossmith's growth and development in the perfumery industry, aligning with their commitment to excellence and innovation.

The Chemist & Druggist in 1919 reported the formation of J. Grossmith & Son Ltd., with a capital of £150,000. Directors included John L. Grossmith as chairman, Stanley Grossmith, Alfred Ridout, and Edward J. Marshall. The transition allowed the business to retain its experienced staff while adapting to a corporate structure, reinforcing its legacy of quality and innovation.

John Lipscomb Grossmith's death in 1921 was noted with esteem, highlighting his significant contributions to the perfumery industry and public service. His leadership helped expand Grossmith into a globally recognized brand, a legacy carried on by his successors.

Alfred Ridout became president and managing director in 1930, promoting British perfumes internationally. In 1940, Robert Gordon Dyas, Stanley Grossmith's nephew, took over, having extensive experience within the firm. Dyas' leadership until his death in 1964 marked a continued focus on innovation and growth.

Despite changes in leadership, J. Grossmith & Son Ltd. upheld its founders' legacy, thriving in the competitive perfumery industry through dedication to quality and creativity. The variety of bottles from the 1920s to the 1940s, shown below, exemplifies the company's enduring creativity and commitment to excellence.

Second World War and Beyond:

The destruction of Grossmith's Newgate Street premises by German bombers in 1940 presented significant challenges, forcing the company to navigate wartime rationing and import restrictions.

Interrupted supply chains compelled Grossmith to substitute costly natural ingredients with synthetic alternatives, leading to a slight decline in product quality. Additionally, shortages of cardboard and paper hindered the production of presentation cases, coffrets, and gift boxes. Government regulations, such as the Limitation of Supplies Order, further restricted the availability of perfumery products.

Glass rationing also posed a major challenge, threatening to halt bottling production. To adapt, Grossmith introduced smaller bottles with colorful plastic screw caps, demonstrating resilience and ingenuity. Despite these adversities, the company remained committed to meeting customer needs and maintaining its presence in the perfumery industry.

During World War II, Grossmith supported the war effort by selling scented cards to raise funds for the forces. Infused with drops of their Old Cottage Lavender cologne, these cards served as both a fundraising tool and a reminder of home for soldiers. The proceeds were donated to a comfort fund for HMS Oak, Wednesfield's adopted ship, fostering a sense of community and solidarity among civilians.

This initiative showcased Grossmith's creativity, compassion, and commitment to making a positive impact during adversity. By leveraging their expertise in perfumery, Grossmith supported the troops while promoting their brand. The message on the back of the cards emphasized the availability of their quality toiletry products despite wartime restrictions, highlighting their dedication to maintaining service and quality.

Grossmith's charitable marketing efforts demonstrated social responsibility and community engagement, generating goodwill and enhancing the brand's reputation as a caring company.

The post-war period saw a resurgence of optimism and new beginnings, reflected in innovative fragrances by perfume companies worldwide. As a result, Jean Patou released L'Heure Attendue in 1946, and Nina Ricci introduced her iconic L'Air du Temps in 1948. In line with this spirit of renewal, Grossmith invited the world to reach for the stars with an optimistic new perfume, Sky High in 1947, evoking a sense of hope and aspiration.  

Phul-Nana, Old Cottage Lavender, and Shem-el-Nessim continued to sell regularly throughout the 1950s and 1960s. During this time, their packaging was updated to appeal to changing tastes.

Following Sky High, Grossmith expanded its lineup with two new floral fragrances in 1949: White Gardenia and English Freesia, catering to the evolving tastes of consumers seeking elegant and uplifting scents. In 1954, the company introduced White Fire, a smouldering, sexy perfume designed to captivate the senses.

In 1969, Grossmith launched Adventure, a fragrance embodying exploration and discovery, captivating adventurous souls. By the 1970s, Grossmith shifted focus to soaps, retaining only Old Cottage Lavender and White Fire as perfumes. Production ceased, marking an end to an era by 1980. Despite this, Grossmith's impact on perfumery persists, cherished by collectors for its iconic creations. Now, Grossmith London sees a miraculous revival, continuing its storied legacy.

List of Fragrances by Grossmith & Son:

Below I have compiled a list of the perfumes of Grossmith that I could find. Many of the dates are generally from advertisements and may have been used earlier such is the case with the single flower or single scents. Please note that this is not a complete list, I will add new entries as I come across them:

• 1851 - White Rose (still sold in 1937)
• 1851 - Ylang Ylang
• 1851 - Stephanotis
• 1851 - Gardenia (still sold in 1937)
• 1851 - New Mown Hay
• 1851 - Wood Violet (still sold in 1912)
• 1851 - White Heliotrope
• 1851 - Jockey Club (still sold in 1937)
• 1851 - Rondeletia
• 1851 - Frangipanni
• 1851 - Opoponax
• 1851 - Ess Bouquet
• 1851 - Spring Flowers
• 1851 - Magnolia
• 1851 - Esprit d'Amour
• 1855 - Mitcham Lavender
• 1860 - Sovereign of Scents (handkerchief perfume)
• 1887 - Hasu-No-Hana, the Perfume of the fragrant Lotus of Japan (still sold in 1951)
• 1890 - Phul-Nana, a Bouquet of India's Choicest Flowers (still sold in 1951)
• 1891 - Verus Naturae Series (White Lilac, English Lilac, Linden Bloom, Lily of the Valley, Musk Rose, Mignonette, Mimosa, Narcissus, May Blossoms, Wallflower, Parma Violet, Cherry Pie, Wild Cherry, Sweet Daphne, Orange Blossom)
• 1891 - Linden Bloom
• 1891 - Violet
• 1891 - May Blossoms
• 1891 - Lily of the Valley (still sold in 1944)
• 1891 - English Lilac
• 1891 - Musk Rose
• 1891 - Mignonette
• 1891 - Wallflower (relaunched in 1937)
• 1891 - Parma Violet (relaunched in 1937)
• 1891 - Cherry Pie
• 1891 - Mimosa (still sold in 1937)
• 1891 - Narcissus (still sold in 1937)
• 1891 - White Lilac (still sold in 1912)
• 1891 - Peau d'Espagne
• 1891 - Chypre
• 1891 - Violette Blanche
• 1891 - Rose Mousse (Moss Rose)
• 1893 - Betrothal Bouquet (still sold in 1916) 
• 1897 - Victorian Bouquet (still sold in 1902)
• 1897 - White Heliotrope (still sold in 1937)
• 1897 - "Enterprise" Series of perfumes
• 1897 - Carnation (relaunched in 1937)
• 1897 - Blush Rose
• 1897 - Mathiola
• 1897 - Jasmin
• 1897 - Verbena
• 1897 - Heliotrope
• 1897 - Rose Geranium
• 1897 - Sweet Briar (relaunched in 1937)
• 1897 - Millefleurs
• 1897 - Orange Blossom (still sold in 1937)
• 1897 - Hyacinth (still sold in 1937)
• 1897 - Patchouli
• 1900 - Primrose
• 1900 - Florodora (still sold in 1923)
• 1902 - English Rose (still sold in 1923)
• 1904 - Heather
• 1904 - Floralia Series (of perfumes & soaps: Parma Violet, Wallflower, Lily of the Valley, Sweet Pea, Rose, Heliotrope) - still sold in 1923
• 1904 - Trefolia Series (of perfumes & soaps) - still sold in 1923
• 1904 - Killarney Violets
• 1904 - Cambrian Bouquet
• 1904 - Caledonian Bouquet
• 1904 - Violets of Scotland
• 1905 - Aida 
• 1907 - Shem-el-Nessim, the Perfume of Araby (still sold in 1951)
• 1909 - Odoralis
• 1911 - English Violet (still sold in 1937)
• 1912 - Wood Violet
• 1912 - Crab Apple
• 1912 - Frangipanni
• 1914 - Wana-Ranee,  the Perfume of Ceylon (still sold in 1951)
• 1914 - Golden Still (sweet, heady, light, refreshing) still sold in 1949
• 1916 - Old Cottage Lavender (A charming and favourite Old English perfume in quaint dark green old- fashioned bottles)
• 1917 - Nu Betsu
• 1917 - Geisha
• 1920 - Charm
• 1920 - Fascination
• 1921 - Florisis
• Lilac (still sold in 1937)
• 1922 - Tsang-Ihang, the  Sweet Perfume of Thibet 
• 1922 - Orchidor
• 1922 - Reve de Jeunesse
• 1922 - Etoile Divine
• 1922 - Rose Pompadour
• 1929 - Parfum Jasmin (still sold in 1944)
• 1930 - Wild Honeysuckle (relaunched in 1937)
• 1937 - Parma Violet (relaunch)
• 1937 - Jasmin
• 1937 - Wallflower (relaunch)
• 1937 - Sweet Pea
• 1937 - Carnation (relaunch)
• 1937 - Lily of the Valley (relaunch)
• 1937 - Sweet Briar (relaunch)
• 1947 - Sky High
• 1948 - Fern (cologne)
• 1948 - Verbena (cologne)
• 1948 - Russian Leather (cologne)
• 1948 - Pink Clover (cologne)
• 1948 - White Gardenia (cologne) 
• 1948 - English Freesia (still sold in 1954)
• 1954 - Old Cottage Lavender Water (Crinoline Lady presentation)
• 1954 - White Fire
• 1969 - Adventure

A Life Renewed:

In 2006, Simon Brooke, great great grandson of Grossmith's founder, discovered his ancestral connection to the perfume house through his collection of antique perfume bottles, notably Phul-Nana. With the company still owned by another family, despite being inactive, Simon and his wife Amanda embarked on a journey to revive it. After 18 months of intensive study and investment, including selling their holiday home and using their savings, they purchased Grossmith in 2007. Guided by experts like Roja Dove and Robertet, they meticulously prepared to reintroduce Grossmith to the world of perfumery. Their revival of the storied brand in 2007 marked a triumphant return, driven by their passion and commitment to preserving family heritage.

History Preserved:

Simon Brooke's fortunate discovery of two formulary books, ledger books, and prize medals preserved by his distant cousin in 1940 was a serendipitous moment. These artifacts are crucial repositories of historical and practical knowledge about Grossmith's perfumery techniques and formulations. The formulary books, likely containing recipes for various fragrances and products, offer insights into ingredient combinations and blending techniques of the past, reflecting trends in the industry. Handwritten by John Lipscomb Grossmith himself, these volumes not only document his experiments and discoveries but also safeguard trade secrets and proprietary formulations. The ledger books provide historical records of business operations, while the prize medals symbolize recognition of the perfumery's skill and reputation. 

Together, these artifacts enrich Brooke's connection to his family's legacy and inspire his revival of Grossmith in contemporary perfumery. 

In October 2009, Simon and Amanda Brooke heralded the revival of Grossmith by reintroducing three of its iconic oriental floral perfumes: Hasu-no-Hana, Phũl-Nãnã, and Shem-el-Nessim. Following advice from Roja Dove, they partnered with the prestigious French perfume house Robertet. Using modern ingredients and photo chromatography analysis of antique samples, Robertet faithfully re-orchestrated these fragrances based on their original turn-of-the-century formulations. Despite challenges like sourcing rare ingredients such as civet, the Brooke family remained committed to using the finest natural materials available. This relaunch not only honored Grossmith's storied legacy but also aligned with a resurgence of interest in classic perfumery, marking a pivotal moment in the brand's revival journey.

Brand Identity:

In 2008, Simon and Amanda Brooke partnered with Holmes & Marchant, a branding and design agency, to rejuvenate Grossmith's fragrance brand. The collaboration focused on merging historical reverence with contemporary design. Holmes & Marchant redesigned Grossmith's visual identity, starting with the iconic Baccarat bottle as inspiration for a new flagship range. The bottle's transition from a square base to an octagonal form influenced the entire brand presentation, including labels, packaging shapes, and typography. The new logo honors Grossmith's heritage while presenting a clean, modern look, supported by a color palette that reflects luxury and elegance. This meticulous approach ensures Grossmith's visual identity resonates with both tradition and contemporary aesthetics.

Packaging:

Grossmith needed a versatile bottle design capable of holding both parfum and eau de parfum, ensuring consistency across product lines. The original Grossmith bottles were known for their distinctive ovoid shape and molded "Grossmith & Son London" inscription, setting them apart. The new bottle designs draw inspiration from these originals, featuring elegant shapes that blend heritage with modern aesthetics. Crafted by STO-Flaconnage in sizes of 100ml, 50ml, and 10ml, these bottles are complemented by caps from PlusImage and pumps from Emsar, reflecting Grossmith's dedication to quality and craftsmanship. This redesign maintains the brand's historic elegance while meeting contemporary standards, ensuring a seamless transition into the modern perfume market."

Grossmith's presentation boxes are meticulously crafted to complement the elegance of their bottles. Each detail, from shape and texture to logo placement and embellishments, is thoughtfully designed for a harmonious presentation. The packaging features a sophisticated color scheme of gold, blue, and white, replacing the Victorian-era vibrancy with a modern luxury appeal. High-quality materials enhance the tactile experience, reflecting the brand's exclusivity. Parfum comes in deluxe white boxes, while eau de parfum is presented in regal blue, ensuring every aspect conveys opulence and refinement.

Grossmith proudly maintains its English heritage by keeping all aspects of perfume production within the country, honoring tradition and supporting local craftsmanship. Perfumes are meticulously crafted at Robertet's UK facility in Haslemere, Surrey. Glass bottles, featuring an elegant oval reeded design, are manufactured in Knottingly, Yorkshire. Presentation boxes are skillfully crafted in Sheffield, while paper labels are produced in Loughborough. Final assembly of components takes place in Tiverton, Devon. This comprehensive approach ensures each product reflects Grossmith's commitment to quality and tradition, showcasing the diverse skills found across England.

A Return to Baccarat:

To entice serious collectors, Grossmith introduced limited editions in lavishly gilded Baccarat crystal, named the "Serie de Luxe." Simon Brooke located the original 1919 order sheet for these bottles and, consulting with Baccarat, discovered they still had the original moulds. Creative director Nick Hanson noted the project began with these bottles, a nod to Grossmith’s heritage. Holmes & Marchant embellished them with intricate, modern interpretations of Victorian etchings, enhancing their luxury appeal. These special editions, crafted with meticulous detail and housed in bespoke oak cases, underscored Grossmith's commitment to heritage and exclusivity.

In 2010, Grossmith offered sumptuous Baccarat presentations for order, priced at £6,000 for a single and £18,000 for a triple, with a three-month delivery time. Each bottle contains 85 ml of Parfum in Phul-Nana, Shem-el-Nessim, or Hasu-no-Hana.

These Baccarat crystal bottles epitomize Grossmith's dedication to luxury, quality, and craftsmanship. Designed meticulously with a precise matching system, they uphold Grossmith's commitment to excellence, enhancing the brand's prestige and contributing to its enduring legacy in heritage perfumery.

Fast Forward to May 2024:

Recently, while reviewing my blog, I realized I hadn't completed my article on Grossmith. Intrigued by their revival in 2009, I visited their website and reached out for press materials and samples. Amanda Brooke kindly sent me a comprehensive Grossmith press kit from London, complete with samples of all eleven current fragrances, glossy postcards featuring antique ads, and a beautifully illustrated booklet wrapped in tissue paper with the "GL" monogram.

Exploring Grossmith's fragrances has been a delightful olfactory journey. Each sample, generously provided in 2ml spray bottles on thick cardstock with blotters, allowed me to experience the scents both on paper and on my skin. Grossmith is renowned for sourcing high-quality ingredients globally, offering a diverse range of scents from floral and fruity to woody and oriental notes, each with its own unique story and mood.

As I tested each fragrance on my skin, I paid close attention to how the ingredients interacted with my chemistry. While I found some delightful surprises, my experience with other revived heritage fragrances was less satisfying. Many felt "thin" and modern, lacking the full-bodied, vintage charm I expected.

Recreating vintage fragrances authentically poses several challenges:

• Access to Original Formulations: Many heritage houses no longer have access to their original formulas, lost or altered over time, which complicates accurate recreation.
• Changes in Manufacturing and Regulations: Modern ingredient regulations and manufacturing techniques differ from historical practices, influencing scent profiles and depth.
• Evolving Consumer Preferences: Contemporary trends favor lighter, fresher scents, diverging from the richer, more complex fragrances of the past.

These factors contribute to the difficulty in achieving faithful reproductions, often resulting in fragrances that may not meet expectations rooted in vintage authenticity.

While exploring revived heritage perfume houses, it's essential to acknowledge the complexities of recreating vintage scents. Challenges such as lost formulas, changes in manufacturing techniques, and evolving consumer preferences can influence the outcome. Approaching fragrances from these houses with an understanding of these factors allows for a deeper appreciation of the blend of history and modernity they represent.

Yet, my experience with Grossmith's fragrance samples surpassed all expectations. Each scent exuded a remarkable "full-bodied" quality and authenticity that resonated deeply. The meticulous use of premium raw materials and adherence to traditional craftsmanship shone through in every facet of Grossmith's perfumes. Access to original formulary books provided a distinct advantage, underscoring their commitment to heritage and excellence.

Impressed beyond measure, I enthusiastically shared my discovery with friends and family, recounting Grossmith's rich history and the story of its revival. The quality of the samples left me feeling as though I had acquired sealed antique bottles of Grossmith's original perfumes, highlighting their authenticity and timeless allure. Few other revived heritage houses compare in delivering such an authentic and complete fragrance experience, akin to Volnay and Cherigan.

Receiving a comprehensive set of samples from Grossmith's current fragrance lineup offered a luxurious immersion into the world of perfumery. Each fragrance revealed its own artistry, craftsmanship, and allure, creating a sensorial journey that captivated and transported me with every scent explored.

My Overall Impressions:

Grossmith's perfumers are renowned for their meticulous selection of premium ingredients sourced globally. These raw materials are chosen for their purity and complexity, ensuring each fragrance boasts unparalleled depth and character.

The hallmark of Grossmith's fragrances lies in their full-bodied nature, crafted to showcase the richness and intricacy of their individual notes. This approach results in scents that offer a multi-dimensional olfactory experience, leaving a lasting impression on the skin.

Rooted in heritage and tradition, Grossmith's perfumes embody vintage elegance and sophistication. By blending classic and modern elements with finesse, they create timeless scents that appeal to both traditionalists and contemporary fragrance enthusiasts alike.

Grossmith's perfumes evoke a nostalgic aesthetic, transporting wearers to a bygone era of glamour and refinement. This nostalgic charm adds an extra allure to the fragrances, inviting you to embark on a sensory journey through history.

Every aspect of Grossmith's fragrance experience exudes luxury and indulgence, reflecting their unwavering commitment to quality and craftsmanship. From the rich, complex scents to the elegant packaging and presentation, each detail is meticulously curated to enhance the overall sensory pleasure.

I'm truly honored that my inquiry led to such a positive exchange with Amanda Brooke and allowed me to delve deeper into the rich history and revival of Grossmith. The attention to detail in their press kit, from the fragrance samples to the beautifully illustrated booklet and antique advertisements, reflects the brand's commitment to quality and heritage. The inclusion of the "GL" monogram on the tissue paper adds elegance and reinforces the brand's identity.

My experience with Grossmith's fragrance samples highlights their dedication to excellence and authenticity. By sparing no expense on raw materials and embracing a vintage aesthetic, Grossmith creates perfumes that are not just scents, but evocative experiences transporting you to another time and place. I highly recommend trying them out for yourself. Enjoy your journey through Grossmith's fragrances and savor every moment of the luxurious olfactory adventure that awaits.

The Classic Collection:

The Classics Collection draws inspiration from original formulary books, faithfully recreating historical fragrances with natural raw materials. These perfumes embody a rich tapestry of scents, evoking bygone eras while showcasing traditional perfume-making craftsmanship. Available in various sizes, they offer a luxurious olfactory journey through time. The three fragrances are available in 10ml, 50ml and 100ml parfum; and 50ml and 100ml eaux de parfum. Special gift sets are also available in 3 x 10ml and 3 x 50ml parfum; and 3 x 50ml eaux de parfum.

Hasu-No-Hana:

Hasu-no-Hana, said to recreate the elusive scent of the Japanese lotus lily, is a radiant composition that exudes timeless elegance and sophistication. With its pronounced mossy chypre and resinous amber facets, this fragrance captivates the senses with its bright and uplifting aura, evoking the beauty of a blooming lotus in full splendor.

Originally created in 1888, Hasu-no-Hana heralded the dawn of modern creative perfumery, setting a standard for innovation and excellence that endures to this day. Its trailblazing spirit and perennial quality make it a true masterpiece, cherished by fragrance connoisseurs for generations.

It begins with the brightness of bergamot and bitter orange. At its heart, Hasu-no-Hana reveals the exquisite beauty of the Japanese lotus lily, a symbol of purity and renewal. Its delicate floral notes of iris and ylang ylang are complemented by hints of chypre, adding depth and complexity to the composition. As the fragrance unfolds, warm and sensual amber facets emerge, enveloping the wearer in a luxurious embrace.

The dry, woody base of vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, and cedar anchors the scent, providing a solid foundation for the opulent floral accords of jasmine and rose to shine. With its irresistible allure and enduring appeal, the newest version of Hasu-no-Hana will remain a timeless classic, especially beloved by those who appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of fine perfumery.

• Top notes: bergamot, bitter orange
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, iris
• Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, tonka bean

Phul-Nana:

The fragrance named "Phul-Nana" is Hindi for "lovely flower," and it absolutely embodies the essence of its name with a fresh and sweet floral composition. With aromatic fougère overtones and a soft, warm, woody base, Phul-Nana captivates the senses with its unique blend of herbal and floral notes. Its opening is bursting with the freshness of citrus, while its heart reveals narcotic tuberose, banana-like ylang ylang and the pungency of geranium. The base is a classic fougere accord, combining earthy woods underscored with balsamic notes of Siamese benzoin and vanilla from the tropical Bourbon isles.

Originally created in 1891, Grossmith notes that "Phul-Nana represents a rare marriage of the herb garden with the flower garden, a concept uncommon in feminine fragrances of its time." This innovative approach cleared the way for the "modern" fragrances that would follow," establishing Phul-Nana as a trailblazer in the world of perfumery.

With its timeless appeal and harmonious blend of aromatic and floral elements, Phul-Nana continues to enchant fragrance enthusiasts with its exquisite complexity and allure. As a celebration of nature's beauty and the artistry of perfumery, the newest version of Phul-Nana will remain a cherished classic, beloved by those who appreciate its timeless elegance.

The appearance of Phul-Nana in the popular television series Downton Abbey further adds to the brand's cultural significance and recognition, highlighting its timeless appeal and enduring legacy.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, neroli
• Middle notes: geranium, tuberose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: patchouli, Siam benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, opoponax, tonka bean, Bourbon vanilla 

Shem-el-Nessim:

"Shem-el-Nessim," derived from Arabic for "smelling the breeze," embodies luxury through its exquisite Florentine Iris essence. Originating in 1906, this lavish fragrance captures the refined charm of the Edwardian era, characterized by its warm, floral, and soft powdery notes, evoking a sense of sophistication and opulence.

The fragrance opens with refreshing citrus notes of bergamot and neroli, imparting a bright and uplifting aroma that sets the stage for the floral and woody accords to follow. The heart features a harmonious blend of geranium, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, and orris, adding a floral richness and depth to the scent profile. The foundation consists of musk, patchouli, cedarwood, sandalwood, heliotrope, and vanilla, contributing to the fragrance's longevity and providing a warm, creamy, and slightly sweet undertone.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli
• Middle notes: geranium, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris
• Base notes: musk, patchouli, cedarwood, sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla

 

The Royal Collection:

Betrothal:

Betrothal is a captivating fragrance that unfolds like a love story, beginning with a vibrant burst of sparkling citrus notes that invigorate the senses. As the scent develops, it blossoms into a luxurious floral bouquet, where the exquisite rose de Mai and precious jasmine from Grasse intertwine in a mesmerizing dance of elegance and romance. These delicate floral notes lend a timeless beauty to the composition, evoking the essence of a twenty-first century fairy tale.

In the dry down, Betrothal reveals a rich musky base, adding sensual allure to the fragrance. The classic blend of jasmine and rose creates a captivating olfactory experience that exudes sophistication and refinement. The addition of tropical ylang ylang rounds out the floral accord and adds a sweet powdery note not unlike banana custard. The harmonious combination of tart vetiver and patchouli serves to temper the floral notes, preventing them from becoming overly sweet or overpowering. Instead, these earthy and aromatic elements provide depth and complexity to the fragrance, creating a well-rounded composition that is both captivating and balanced.

Crafted with the finest materials, Betrothal, representative of the "contemporary love story", is perfectly suited for the bride who wants something traditional. The fragrance embodies the essence of modern luxury, offering a fragrance that charms the senses and leaves a lasting impression. It is a scent that resonates with elegance and grace, destined to enchant and inspire those who wear it.

• Top notes: bergamot, neroli
• Middle notes: rose de Mai, jasmine, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vetiver, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla , musk

Diamond Jubilee Bouquet:

Originally crafted for Queen Victoria in 1897 and known as the Victorian Bouquet, the latest iteration pays homage to the late Queen Elizabeth II with the name Diamond Jubilee Bouquet. This fragrance serves as a majestic tribute to Queen Elizabeth II, who celebrated her Diamond Jubilee in 2012. The renaming reflects both the historical significance of the perfume's origins and its enduring relevance in commemorating significant moments in British history. It is considered a floral masterpiece that manages to capture the essence of a modern-day celebration. The fragrance unfolds like a vibrant tapestry, weaving together an array of exquisite floral notes with warm, sensual accords.

At the outset, bright citrus notes of orange and lemon dance upon the senses, infusing the composition with a burst of freshness and sparkling vitality. Tender nuances of lily of the valley and gentle narcissus add a delicate touch, enhancing the floral bouquet with their ethereal beauty.

In the heart of the fragrance, a refined floral symphony unfolds, showcasing the timeless allure of rose, iris, jasmine, violet, and heliotrope with its almond-like scent. These precious blooms intertwine harmoniously, creating a captivating olfactory experience that is both sophisticated and enchanting.

As the scent evolves, a subtle hint of smoky vetiver adds depth and complexity, underscoring the floral notes with a touch of earthy richness. The fragrance then settles into a warm and sensual base, where notes of vanilla, tonka bean, hawthorn, amber, and powdery musks envelop the senses in a gauzy veil of luxurious warmth.

Diamond Jubilee Bouquet is a fragrance fit for royalty, a floral mosaic that pays homage to the beloved Queen's remarkable reign with grace, elegance, and timeless beauty.

• Top notes: orange, lemon, lily of the valley, narcissus
• Middle notes: rose, iris, jasmine, violet, vetiver, carnation
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, hawthorn, amber, musk

King's Salute:

King’s Salute, the latest addition to Grossmith’s esteemed Royal Collection, pays homage to the King Charles' deep-rooted passion for plants and gardening, a passion that echoes Grossmith’s historic connections to lavender. The fragrance captures the aromatic essence of the King's beloved Highgrove garden, where beds of Mitcham lavender and thyme flourish abundantly.

Launched on Coronation Day, the King's Salute fragrance embodies a significant occasion in British history, capturing the spirit of celebration and tradition associated with royal events. This carefully timed release further emphasizes the connection between the perfume and significant milestones in the monarchy, enriching its narrative and appeal to enthusiasts of both perfumery and royal history.

The scent opens with a burst of bright citrus notes and robust lavenders, setting a celebratory tone that embodies the spirit of the occasion. As the fragrance evolves, it reveals a heart of valuable green iris and savory thyme, accented by bracing hints of black pepper and camphoraceous cardamom, adding depth and complexity to the composition. Throughout the wear, the herbal lavender note remains prominent, serving as a nod to Grossmith's heritage and the King's botanical interests.

In the base, subtly sweet tonka, velvety cashmeran, powdery musks and balsamic amber provide a warm and inviting foundation, rounding out the scent with a touch of elegance and sophistication. The distinctive purple label of King’s Salute is a fitting tribute to its royal inspiration, complemented by the Royal Mail First Class postage stamp, a symbol of continuity and tradition chosen by King Charles himself.

With King’s Salute, Grossmith continues its legacy of crafting exquisite fragrances that reflect both history and modernity, offering an invigorating sensory journey that honors the royal heritage and celebrates the beauty of nature.

• Top notes: bergamot, elemodor, blackcurrant, black pepper
• Middle notes: lavender, lavandin, thyme, iris, cardamom
• Base notes: oakmoss, amber, cashmeran accord, musk, coumarin

The Black Label Collection:

The 2012 launch of the Black Label Collection marked a milestone for Grossmith, introducing original perfumes crafted with creativity and expertise. Designed with input from Eleanor Brooke, it blends modern innovation with timeless elegance, reflecting Grossmith's commitment to exceptional fragrances that appeal to contemporary tastes while honoring its heritage. The Black Label is available as 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum clad in black and gold emballage. A special gift set of the four fragrances is also available: 4 x 10ml eaux de parfum.

 

Floral Veil:

Launched in 2012, this fragrance presents a captivating blend of exuberant citrus and green notes, juxtaposed with a rich floral heart. The initial burst of citrus and green accords provides a refreshing and invigorating opening, while the lush floral bouquet of fresh geranium, rose, ylang ylang, sultry tuberose, and the creaminess of vanilla orchid adds depth and complexity to the composition. Finally, the warm and smooth base notes of cashmeran, amber, and musk create a luxurious and enveloping finish, balancing the coolness of the top notes with a sense of warmth and sophistication.

Floral Veil promises to envelop wearers in a delicate and ethereal aura, reminiscent of a gossamer mist of the soft distillation of flower petals. The description alone evokes a sense of lightness and femininity, offering a captivating olfactory experience. As for the name, Amanda Brooke said she was inspired by a nostalgic recollection, a diaphanous veil attached to her beloved mother's hat.

• Top notes: citrus, lemon, green notes, cassis
• Middle notes: geranium, rose, ylang ylang, tuberose, vanilla orchid
• Base notes: musk, cashmeran, amber

Amelia:

 Amelia is a tribute to Simon Brooke's great grandmother, who played a crucial role in his rediscovery of the lost perfume house. Amelia, adds a layer of familial connection to the collection, infusing it with a sense of heritage and tradition. This feminine fragrance exudes softness and elegance, beginning with alluring top notes of green neroli and creamy osmanthus. As it unfolds, an exquisite floral heart emerges, characterized by a torrent of rose, peony, and costly jasmine blossoms, scattered abundantly over the balsamic warmth of resinous amber. The fragrance evolves into a rich and voluptuous base, featuring notes of patchouli, honeyed sandalwood, dry vetiver, and diaphanous cashmere musks, ensuring a lasting and captivating olfactory experience. 

• Top notes: neroli, osmanthus
• Middle notes: rose, peony, jasmine, amber
• Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, cashmere musks 

Golden Chypre:

Golden Chypre offers a modern take on the timeless chypre fragrance family, Grossmith describes it as evoking the imagery of autumn sunlight dancing on golden leaves The scent opens with a burst of piquant spice from cardamom and nutmeg, interwoven with effervescent citrus notes. An appealing blend of rose, herbaceous geranium, and a wild cherry note from heliotrope adds depth and balance to the lively opening, while patchouli contributes a warm and earthy element. The fragrance gradually transitions into a smoky drydown of vetiver and leathery labdanum, seamlessly merging into a sensual base of woods, amber, and soft powdery musks.

Golden Chypre perfectly encapsulates the vibrant warmth and fleeting beauty of the season. With its rich and evocative composition, it paints a sensory picture of crisp air, earthy forests, and the soft glow of sunlight filtering through the crinkling foliage. Each scent captures the essence of fall, inviting wearers to immerse themselves in a golden-hued world of nostalgia and tranquility.

• Top notes: bergamot, orange, cardamom, nutmeg
• Middle notes: rose, geranium, heliotrope, patchouli, vetiver
• Base notes: woods, amber, labdanum, musk

Saffron Rose:

Saffron Rose is a sophisticated woody amber fragrance, weaving together the luxurious aroma of costly saffron and the captivating essence of velvety roses to craft an opulent olfactory experience. The tapestry unfolds, sprinkling a blend of spicy saffron and warm cinnamon, complemented by the delicate sweetness of a lush rose garden. At its heart, a smouldering brazier of myrrh, amber, labdanum, oud wood, and tobacco, infuses the composition with a mesmerizing smokiness and balsamic tracery. As the scent evolves, it settles into a complex, musky aroma of castoreum, a raw energy imparting a deeper, more primal element, adding depth and richness to the long-lasting sumptuous base of creamy precious woods.

• Top notes: saffron, rose, cinnamon
• Middle notes: myrrh, oud wood, tobacco
• Base notes: castoreum, sandalwood, labdanum, amber

Exclusive Creations:

Sylvan Song:

"Sylvan Song," made exclusively for Fortnum & Mason, legendary purveyors of high quality goods. It  celebrates the shared heritage and values between Grossmith and Fortnum & Mason. Reflecting the essence of verdant woodland, this fragrance is a balanced blend of tradition, quality, and veritable Englishness. Just as Grossmith's use of rare and natural materials evokes distant shores, Fortnum & Mason's sourcing of teas and coffees attracts customers from around the globe. With "Sylvan Song," Grossmith pays homage to these connections, creating a scent that captures the timeless beauty of the flourishing English countryside.

The opening is brightened by a vivacious accent of bergamot, which adds an effervescent touch to the overall scent. A sumptuous cascade of fresh jasmine, rose, and ylang ylang petals contribute to the fragrance's rich and luxurious bouquet. Incense adds a smoky and mystical quality to the fragrance, while earthy patchouli and guaiac wood enhancing its depth and complexity, evokes the dappled shade under rustic evergreens. Musk adds a soft and sensual touch, tonka bean brings a creamy sweetness with hints of vanilla, and benzoin offers a warm and balsamic aroma. Together, they create a cozy and inviting base for the perfume, leaving an echo of warmth and dulcet tones.

• Top notes: bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: patchouli, vetiver, guaiac wood, benzoin, musk, incense, tonka bean