Souvenir d'un Soir by Mary Chess c1956

"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess, launched in 1956, carries with it an air of nostalgia and romance from its very name. The phrase, which translates from French to "Memory of an Evening," evokes a sense of wistful reflection on a singular, enchanting moment, possibly an unforgettable night filled with intrigue, romance, or personal significance. The use of French in the name imbues the fragrance with a European sophistication and allure, a common marketing approach in post-war America, where French culture and fashion were seen as the epitome of elegance and refinement.

The imagery conjured by "Souvenir d'un Soir" is delicate yet profound. It brings to mind an evening gown, the sound of soft music playing in a dimly lit room, and the sparkle of chandeliers reflecting in champagne glasses. It speaks of fleeting beauty, the mystery of twilight, and the emotions of a moment suspended in time. The word "souvenir" suggests that this fragrance is not just an aroma but a keepsake—a way to preserve the memories of a special night. The idea of capturing such emotions in a scent gives the fragrance a personal, intimate appeal, as if one could bottle the very essence of a cherished evening.

In terms of scent, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would likely be interpreted as something ephemeral yet striking. As an aldehydic floral fragrance, it would open with that characteristic aldehydic sparkle—dry, crisp, and slightly metallic. Aldehydes bring a freshness, often described as brisk or champagne-like, which immediately sets the tone of elegance and cool detachment. These top notes would likely give way to a heart filled with classic florals, likely including roses and jasmine, which could suggest the classic glamour of the time. The "dry" quality of the fragrance points to an almost powdery or restrained floral bouquet, where sweetness is tempered by a more mature, sophisticated dryness that mirrors the fleeting nature of a memory. The briskness would evoke an energy, a fleeting sharpness that dissipates quickly, leaving behind a softer, lingering floral essence.

In the mid-1950s, American women were balancing traditional roles with newfound freedoms. The post-war era brought both stability and the growing influence of modernity. Perfumes like "Souvenir d'un Soir" would have resonated with women who sought to embrace the elegance of the past while stepping confidently into the future. It symbolized sophistication, emotional depth, and the allure of feminine mystique.

For American women of the time, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would represent a subtle form of rebellion against the domesticity expected of them. It was a fragrance that carried connotations of independence, personal reflection, and the desire to capture fleeting moments in a world that was changing rapidly. The name itself suggests something personal—a memory not shared, but quietly cherished, perhaps as a reminder of a time when they felt free, glamorous, or alive in ways beyond the everyday routine.

Launched in an era when women were embracing fashion, cinema, and modern ideas of femininity, "Souvenir d'un Soir" would be a scent that allowed them to embody both grace and individuality. It would symbolize a woman's ability to carry her memories of beauty, romance, and elegance with her, even as she faced the responsibilities and challenges of mid-century life.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Souvenir d'un Soir by Mary Chess is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It was described as a "dry, brisk floral."

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Italian neroli, Ceylon cardamom
• Middle notes: Grasse rose absolute, Grasse jasmine absolute, Alpine lily of the valley, Florentine orris
• Base notes: Madagascan vanilla, Tonkin musk, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver, Atlas cedar

Scent Profile:

Souvenir d'un Soir by Mary Chess is a fragrance that captures the fleeting beauty of a moment, the crispness of evening air infused with the scent of flowers and distant woods. It opens with a burst of aldehydes, their effervescent shimmer like the first breath of cold air against warm skin. The aldehydes lend a luminous, almost metallic brightness, lifting the entire composition with an airy, champagne-like fizz. This brilliance is complemented by Calabrian bergamot, its sun-drenched zest radiating an almost floral sweetness, more refined than other citrus varieties. 

From nearby Sicily comes Sicilian lemon, sharper, more piercing, its tart freshness like the first spark of twilight against the horizon. Italian neroli, extracted from the delicate orange blossoms of bitter orange trees, softens the citrus bite with its honeyed, slightly green undertones, wrapping the opening in a veil of luminous white floralcy. A touch of Ceylon cardamom brings unexpected warmth, its cool spiciness flickering in and out of the citrus bouquet like a whisper of exotic mystery, adding an almost effervescent tingle to the initial rush.

As the initial brightness fades, the heart reveals a deeply romantic floral composition. At its center is Grasse rose absolute, a bloom cultivated in the historic perfume fields of southern France, where generations of growers have perfected the art of extracting its rich, honeyed scent. This rose is plush, velvety, with a balance of fresh green facets and warm, almost spicy undertones. Beside it, Grasse jasmine absolute unfurls its narcotic beauty, its creamy white petals exuding an intoxicating depth that feels both luminous and sultry. 

The delicate, almost crystalline scent of Alpine lily of the valley introduces a whisper of green freshness, its dewdrop-like purity cutting through the opulent florals. This small yet powerfully fragrant bloom, found in the cool, high-altitude meadows of the Alps, has a crispness that contrasts with the more indulgent jasmine and rose. Tying the heart together is Florentine orris, an essence derived from the roots of the iris flower in Tuscany. Aged for years before distillation, this orris possesses an unparalleled powdery elegance, with hints of violet, soft earth, and a faint buttery richness that envelops the florals in an almost tactile softness.

As the fragrance settles, a warm and sensual base emerges, wrapping the composition in an embrace of woods, resins, and musks. Madagascan vanilla brings a deep, creamy sweetness, richer and darker than its counterparts from other regions, with a touch of smoky warmth. This is balanced by the animalic allure of Tonkin musk, its velvety warmth mimicking the scent of clean skin, blending seamlessly into the fragrance's deeper tones. The elusive magic of ambergris, a rare treasure from the sea, adds an almost salty, sun-warmed smoothness, enhancing the natural warmth of the musks. 

Mysore sandalwood, the most coveted variety, brings a creamy, almost milky woodiness, its sacred depth lingering like a soft whisper against the skin. From the dense forests of the Austrian Alps comes Tyrolean oakmoss, its rich, earthy depth adding a shadowy contrast, grounding the fragrance with a chypre-like sophistication. The smoky, slightly nutty aroma of Java vetiver infuses the base with an earthy coolness, enhancing the fragrance’s brisk, dry quality. Finally, Atlas cedar, with its warm, resinous woodiness, completes the composition, its golden tones bringing the fragrance full circle, echoing the luminous aldehydes of the opening but now with a deeper, more grounded warmth.

Souvenir d'un Soir is a fragrance of contrast—bright yet shadowy, crisp yet warm, floral yet dry. It evokes the memory of a golden evening where citrus fades into flowers, and flowers melt into the depth of night. It lingers like a whisper on the skin, a fleeting yet unforgettable souvenir of time suspended between day and dusk.

Bottles:

The intricately designed perfume bottle of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" pays homage to the majestic Pulitzer Fountain, a prominent landmark located in New York City's Central Park. The fountain features a depiction of "Pomona," the Roman goddess of abundance, representing the beauty of nature and the bounty of the harvest. Positioned in front of the Plaza Hotel and adjacent to Bergdorf Goodman department store, the fountain stands as a symbol of luxury and elegance in the heart of Manhattan.

Bergdorf Goodman, renowned for its exclusive offerings of high-end fashion and luxury goods, served as the exclusive retailer of Mary Chess fragrances, further enhancing the prestige of the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation. The launch of this fragrance was celebrated with an event at the Plaza Hotel, showcasing the exquisite bottle design and captivating scent to discerning clientele.

Crafted in France, the figural bottles of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" exemplify exceptional artistry and attention to detail. Available in two sizes—4.75" tall for the larger version (holding 2 oz) and 3.5" tall for the smaller version (holding 0.25 oz) —these bottles captured the essence of the Pulitzer Fountain's grandeur and elegance. Unfortunately, I do not know who manufactured the French bottles, it could be Verreries Brosse or Verreries le Bresle. These glassmakers also have a history of producing beautiful bottles for various perfume brands. What I do know is that it was not produced by Lalique.

Additionally, non-figural bottles were produced by Wheaton, maintaining the fragrance's allure and sophistication.

"May the fountain at the plaza - one of New York's most beautiful landmarks bring back to you  -  The Memory of an Evening - Souvenir d'un Soir" is printed on the back of the hangtag.  The sentiment adds a poetic and nostalgic touch to the fragrance presentation. The message conjures images of romantic evenings spent amidst the elegance and grandeur of New York City.

Harper's Bazaar, 1956:

"MARY CHESS- New from France... SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR! A sparkling, modern perfume made exclusively for Mary Chess. French bottle is an exquisite replica of the Plaza Fountain."

The New Yorker, Vol 33,1956

"SOUVENIR D'UN SOIR- The newest of Mary Chess Perfumes -an exciting , modern blend compounded in France. A sparkling perfume for day and evening. Exquisite French bottle—a replica of the famous Saint-Gaudens fountain in New York's Plaza. 2 ozs. $45, 1/4 oz. $10, purse Flacon, $5. Aerosol Nuages de Parfum, $5. All plus tax." 

The descriptions of "Souvenir d'Un Soir" from Harper's Bazaar and The New Yorker in 1956 highlight the fragrance's debut as a luxurious and captivating addition to Mary Chess's perfume collection. The scent, hailed as "sparkling" and "modern," was exclusively crafted for Mary Chess, adding to the allure and exclusivity of the brand's offerings. 

The pricing information provided in The New Yorker further positions "Souvenir d'Un Soir" as a luxury item, with options ranging from 0.25 oz. bottles to larger 2 oz. sizes, as well as purse flacons and aerosol nuages de parfum. These offerings cater to different preferences and occasions, allowing consumers to experience the enchanting fragrance in various formats.

Overall, the "Souvenir d'Un Soir" presentation exemplifies the fusion of art, luxury, and fragrance, offering a captivating olfactory experience paired with an exquisite bottle design inspired by one of New York City's most iconic landmarks.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Souvenir d'un Soir" by Mary Chess was eventually discontinued, although the exact date of discontinuation is not widely documented. Like many fragrances, its availability likely depended on factors such as market trends, consumer demand, and the evolving product portfolio of Mary Chess over the years..