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Friday, July 12, 2024

Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli c1928

In 1928, Prince Georges Matchabelli unveiled "Princess Norina," a perfume born from his deep affection and admiration for his wife, Norina. The context of this time period was marked by a fascination with romance and elegance, reflecting the enduring allure of royalty and aristocracy in society. It was an era when fragrances were not merely scents but also expressions of personal stories and aspirations.

Prince Matchabelli's choice of the name "Princess Norina" for the perfume was deeply personal and symbolic. By naming the fragrance after his wife, he sought to immortalize her grace, beauty, and perhaps the regal qualities he admired in her. "Princess Norina" evokes an image of refinement, sophistication, and a touch of fairy-tale allure, appealing to those who appreciated romance and glamour.

For consumers of the time, the name "Princess Norina" would have resonated with notions of aristocratic elegance and romantic ideals. It would likely have attracted those who sought to embody or admire the qualities associated with royalty – elegance, poise, and a hint of mystery. The perfume itself would have been perceived as a tribute to enduring love and refined taste, appealing to those who appreciated luxurious fragrances with a narrative behind them.

The name "Princess Norina" conjures images of grandeur, courtly elegance, and the timeless allure of royalty. It suggests a fragrance that is both delicate and commanding, evoking feelings of admiration, romance, and sophistication. Those who encountered "Princess Norina" would have likely been captivated by its romantic narrative and the promise of experiencing a scent that embodies the essence of a beloved princess – graceful, enchanting, and eternally captivating.







c1929 ad


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli is classified as a floral fragrance for women and was described as a "subtle breath of precious flowers""jasmine and orange blossom".   .
  • Top notes: Italian neroli, Algerian cassie, Calabrian bergamot, Portuguese orange
  • Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Tunisian orange blossom, Zanzibar clove, Florentine orris
  • Base notes: Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Venezuelan tolu balsam, Abyssinian civet
 .

Scent Profile:


Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli opens with a breath of bright, radiant citrus, beginning with the uplifting, sparkling freshness of Italian neroli. Derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree grown in the sun-soaked orchards of Italy, neroli is a uniquely delicate yet intense floral note with a fresh, slightly green quality that is both uplifting and calming. The neroli's bright citrus aspect melds beautifully with the sweet, honeyed warmth of Algerian cassie, whose delicate yellow flowers, native to North Africa, lend a soft, powdery, almost almond-like fragrance. This variety of cassie, prized for its smooth and gentle character, provides a sophisticated richness that balances the crispness of the neroli. 

The Calabrian bergamot, a prized citrus from Italy’s southernmost region, adds its signature tang, sharp and slightly floral, with a bitterness that cuts through the sweetness and gives the fragrance a sparkling, zesty edge. The Portuguese orange follows with its juicy, sunny sweetness, a familiar, refreshing note that rounds out the citrus opening, enhancing the brightness of the fragrance while adding a natural, fleshy sweetness.

As the fragrance transitions into its heart, the floral notes unfurl with an elegant complexity. Grasse jasmine, from the renowned perfume capital of France, lends its rich, intoxicating sweetness, a deep, honeyed floral with a subtle animalic undertone. The jasmine from Grasse is renowned for its fuller, rounder aroma compared to jasmine from other regions, making it a sought-after ingredient for its profound sensuality and opulence. 

Tunisian orange blossom, sourced from the fragrant blooms of the bitter orange tree in Tunisia, adds an intricate complexity with its sweet, slightly creamy floral scent. The flowers of Tunisia are prized for their refined, sophisticated aroma, less sharp than other varieties, and this orange blossom imparts a luxurious softness that blends beautifully with the jasmine. 

Zanzibar clove adds a spicy warmth, its sweetly aromatic profile evoking the exotic markets of East Africa. The clove from Zanzibar is particularly rich, with an intensity that brings a subtle heat to the fragrance, enhancing the warmth of the florals. Florentine orris, with its powdery elegance, adds a refined, almost vintage quality, grounding the heart with its soft, woody floral note that brings depth and sophistication, drawn from the root of the iris flower cultivated in the rich soil of Tuscany.

In the base, Princess Norina reveals its sensual, earthy warmth. Tibetan musk provides a smooth, intimate depth, known for its subtle, animalic richness. It imparts a softness to the fragrance, wrapping the wearer in a velvety warmth that is both luxurious and comforting. Mysore sandalwood, from the revered Mysore region of India, lends its signature creamy, balsamic woodiness, with a richness that is both smooth and deeply aromatic. Mysore sandalwood is famous for its complexity, with a naturally sweet and almost meditative quality that has made it one of the most sought-after sandalwoods in perfumery. 

Ambergris, that rare and coveted treasure from the sea, adds an earthy, musky warmth to the base, evoking a sensual, salty sweetness that feels both rich and enigmatic. Venezuelan tolu balsam, a resin obtained from the Tolú tree in South America, introduces a sweet, vanilla-like warmth, with an almost caramel-like richness that deepens the fragrance and adds a subtle depth to the composition. Finally, Abyssinian civet, sourced from East Africa, imparts a soft, animalic warmth, its musky richness bringing a primal sensuality to the fragrance, adding a touch of wildness that balances the florals and resins.

Princess Norina is a delicate and complex floral fragrance, a soft breath of flowers imbued with sensuality and depth. Each ingredient brings its own unique character, with the radiant brightness of the citrus opening flowing seamlessly into the rich floral heart and finishing with a warm, inviting base that lingers in the air. It is a fragrance that feels timeless, elegant, and subtly enchanting, capturing the essence of a woman who is both refined and effortlessly captivating.


The New Yorker - Volume 11 - Page 47, 1935:
"Matchabelli : The best still is Duchess of York (lilac), but Grace Moore (tantalizing and spicy), Princess Norina, and Empress of India (very exotic and Oriental) are in great demand."


Bottles:


The presentation of Princess Norina in its iconic crown bottle epitomizes elegance and sophistication within the Prince Matchabelli collection. The use of crown bottles, renowned for their distinctive design, maintains consistency with other fragrances by the brand while elevating the allure of Princess Norina.

The choice of a black and gold color scheme for Princess Norina's bottle enhances its luxurious appeal. Black symbolizes elegance and mystery, perfectly complementing the regal theme evoked by the fragrance's name. Gold accents further enrich the design, adding a touch of prestige and highlighting its exclusivity.

Symbolically, the black and gold bottle resonates with notions of royalty and nobility, aligning seamlessly with the essence of "Princess Norina." It signifies opulence and refinement, making the fragrance a coveted item among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Despite its unique design, the bottle maintains continuity with other Prince Matchabelli offerings, ensuring brand recognition and reinforcing its status as a timeless classic. The label, adorned with Princess Norina's name in elegant script alongside the Prince Matchabelli logo, adds a final touch of sophistication to the exquisite packaging.

In essence, the black and gold crown bottle of Princess Norina encapsulates luxury, elegance, and exclusivity, complementing the fragrance's enchanting allure and securing its place as a cherished gem in the world of perfumery.





1926 Prince Matchabelli Princess Norina perfume bottle and stopper as a crown in black glass, gold detail, label. 3 1/4 in. Photo from Perfume Bottle Auctions





Fate of the Fragrance:


Princess Norina by Prince Matchabelli, still available as of 1942, remains a poignant testament to the enduring power of love and creativity in perfumery. Crafted as a tribute to Prince Matchabelli's wife, Norina, this fragrance captures the essence of romance and admiration. Reflecting Norina's timeless elegance and femininity, it stands as a cherished creation with a lasting legacy in the world of fragrances.

While specific details about its composition may be limited, Princess Norina's significance as a personal and heartfelt creation endows it with a unique place in perfume history. Its presence on the market until 1942 highlights its enduring appeal and the fondness with which it was received by perfume enthusiasts of its time.

The discontinuation date of Princess Norina is not readily documented in historical records, which is not uncommon for perfumes from earlier eras. Discontinuations can stem from various factors, including evolving consumer tastes, shifts in market dynamics, or strategic decisions within perfume companies. Despite this, Princess Norina's legacy persists through its association with love and inspiration, evoking nostalgia for an era characterized by romance and refined elegance.





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