Conquete by Lancome c1935

Conquête by Lancôme, launched in 1935, emerged during a tumultuous and transformative era known as the Great Depression. This period was marked by widespread economic hardship, yet also saw a remarkable flourishing of creativity and escapism in popular culture. Amidst the struggles, there was a longing for romance, adventure, and heroism, which found expression in various forms of media, including films and fashion that often romanticized the medieval era, knights, and chivalric conquests.

The choice of the name "Conquête" for this perfume is particularly evocative and fitting for the time. The word "conquête" pronounced as "Kohn-ket" is French for "conquest," a term rich with historical and emotional resonance. It conjures images of knights, gallant battles, and the pursuit of noble goals, themes that were incredibly appealing during the Great Depression. These themes offered an escape from the harsh realities of daily life, providing a sense of grandeur and timeless elegance.

The medieval and chivalric themes were prevalent in other perfumes of the period as well, such as Chevalier de la Nuit by Ciro and Sir Gallahad by Isabey. These names reflect a fascination with knights and romanticized history, suggesting a broader trend in the fragrance industry to draw upon these powerful and evocative themes.

Lancome’s Conquête would have resonated deeply with women of the era. The idea of "conquest" implied not only the heroic and adventurous aspects of medieval knights but also a sense of personal empowerment and allure. Women wearing Conquête might have felt a sense of participation in their own romantic and personal conquests, embodying both strength and elegance. The name suggests a perfume that is bold, captivating, and irresistibly alluring, much like the idealized knights of medieval romance.

The response to this perfume would likely have been one of admiration and aspiration. The imagery and emotions evoked by "Conquête" are potent: the thrill of victory, the allure of mystery, and the elegance of chivalric romance. This would make the name unique and memorable, setting the perfume apart in a crowded market by appealing directly to the emotional and imaginative needs of the consumers.

"Conquête" would be interpreted as a symbol of power and allure, a fitting tribute to the resilience and spirit of women during the Great Depression. It evokes a sense of triumph and determination, qualities that would be highly valued in such a challenging time. The medieval knightly imagery tied to conquest would inspire feelings of romantic adventure and timeless beauty, offering a form of escapism and a touch of fantasy.

In conclusion, Conquête by Lancôme, introduced by Armand Petitjean in 1935, is a perfume deeply rooted in the romantic and adventurous themes of medieval knights and conquests. It capitalized on the era's cultural trends and the emotional needs of its consumers, offering a sense of empowerment and allure that resonated powerfully during the Great Depression. Other perfumes of the time, like Chevalier de la Nuit and Sir Gallahad, similarly drew on these themes, reflecting a broader fascination with the noble and romantic ideals of the past.

Conquete was launched alongside four other new perfumes—Tropiques, Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Bocages—at the Universal Exhibition in Brussels, Conquête represents a bold exploration of olfactory elegance and sophistication.  

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Conquête by Lancôme is classified as a floral chypre perfume with intense notes of rose and leather.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Tunisian orange, Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: French carnation, Malabar pepper, Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris, Egyptian jasmine, Moroccan rose
• Base notes: leather, Tibetan musk, Iranian galbanum, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean, Cyprus labdanum

Armand Petitjean:

"Conquete, a concentrated fragrance of roses on a chypre base, will please any woman who likes to be noticed when she enters the theatre or a restaurant." 

Armand Petitjean:

"Conquête was a demonstration of mine. It was a symbol of conquest.  It was 
necessary to conquer the world to make the reputation of Lancome's willpower."

 

Paris-Alger, 1935:

"Lancome...These five new scents are: Kypre, velvety and flowery, deeper than ordinary chypre; Tendres Nuits, whose sweetness of exotic fruits surprises with a lavender opening; Bocages, scent of blonde, young and laughing, whose honeysuckle seems to emerge from a double base of jasmine and mimosa; Conquête, an aroma of intimate luxury, of the same inspiration as Chanel's 5, although the smell is different; Tropiques, which is exhaled in surprises, like a warm symphony in which the brilliance of the brass surprises."

Times Colonist, 1946:

"Perfectly named for it is indeed the forerunner of conquests and, as it passes, it leaves a track, radiating a powerful odor or roses, as it subsides, a beautiful flow of chypre ceaselessly upholds it. Colorful, sunny, dynamic, throwing out a thousand sparks before unwinding a long, sweet melody."

Combat, 1954:

"Eau parfumée a Conquete de Lancome: A peppery carnation, whose musky background, sharpens the perfidy, dominates the smell of the sleeping sultana of the rose. Lascivious notes of leather specify the Spanish journey to which this fragrance invites which, even diluted, requires the warm complexion of a nervous brunette like a Sevillian dancer. I see her cross, thus perfumed, a place cracked by the sun. A carnation with bloody jagged petals is slipped between her bronze ear and her nocturnal hair."

Scent Profile:

Conquête opens with a radiant burst of aldehydes, their effervescent sparkle lifting the fragrance into the air like the first breath of dawn. They bring an airy brightness, almost metallic in its crispness, diffusing the richness to come. The citrus medley follows, each note distinct yet harmonious. Sicilian lemon lends a vibrant, sun-drenched acidity, sharper and zestier than other lemons, its peels bursting with oils warmed by Mediterranean heat. 

Tunisian orange, richer and deeper, has a honeyed sweetness that contrasts with the sharpness of Italian neroli—an extract of bitter orange blossoms that imparts a refined, green floral elegance. Calabrian bergamot, from the finest groves in Italy, rounds out the opening with its smooth, floral-tinged citrus, a note that feels almost golden in its warmth.

As the heart unfolds, the floral symphony emerges, each bloom contributing its unique personality. French carnation is bold and spicy, its clove-like warmth adding texture and depth. Malabar black pepper from India's southwestern coast heightens this fiery impression, its pungency cutting through the florals with an exotic, resinous heat. 

The Bulgarian rose asserts itself—lush, full-bodied, and honeyed, its deep red petals exuding an intoxicating richness. Florentine iris, one of the most prized perfumery materials, follows with its soft, powdery elegance, grounding the bouquet with an aristocratic smoothness. Egyptian jasmine, heady and narcotic, adds an intoxicating creaminess, mingling with the velvety facets of Moroccan rose, whose slightly spicy, musky undertones give the floral heart a hypnotic sensuality.

The base is where Conquête truly asserts its commanding presence, a bold interplay of raw, animalic strength and smooth, woody refinement. Leather dominates, smoky and supple, evoking the scent of well-worn gloves infused with a touch of floral sweetness. Tibetan musk, rare and untamed, adds a feral depth, its slightly powdery warmth enhancing the luxurious feel. Iranian galbanum, sharp and green, injects an earthy bitterness, intensifying the chypre character. 

Tyrolean oakmoss clings to the skin like a damp forest floor, deep, inky green with hints of loamy richness. Indonesian patchouli, dark and camphoraceous, weaves through the composition, its shadowy presence grounding the fragrance in mystery. Mysore sandalwood, from the most revered trees of India, lends its creamy, resinous warmth, while ambergris, with its salty, almost oceanic depth, gives the scent a luminous, animalic shimmer. Venezuelan tonka bean imparts a smooth, slightly caramelized sweetness, while Cyprus labdanum, resinous and balsamic, provides a final touch of warmth, sealing Conquête’s presence as a deeply sensual, commanding floral chypre.

A perfume of power and allure, Conquête embodies both grace and strength, a fragrance that whispers of conquest not through force, but through irresistible seduction.

 

Bottle:

The flacon of Conquête by Lancôme, introduced in 1935, is an exquisite embodiment of the fragrance's elegance and sophistication. Designed by Georges Delhomme, a luminary in the world of fragrance packaging, the flacon reflects the artistic vision and meticulous craftsmanship that Delhomme is renowned for. This masterpiece was brought to life by Verrières de la Bresle, a glassmaking firm celebrated for their precision and finesse in creating luxury glassware.

Crafted from fine crystal, the flacon exudes an aura of luxury and refinement. Its narrow square shape imparts a sleek and modern aesthetic, making it a standout piece on any vanity or dressing table. The design is further enhanced by the dimpling on the front and back sides, which adds a tactile and visual richness. This textured surface invites the user to engage with the bottle, enhancing the sensory experience of handling the perfume.

The flacon is topped with a ground glass stopper shaped like a ball, ensuring a secure seal that preserves the fragrance's integrity and prevents evaporation. This detail not only serves a practical purpose but also adds a touch of classical elegance to the overall design. The stopper’s smooth, rounded form contrasts beautifully with the textured body of the bottle, creating a harmonious balance.

A small square label made of metallic gold finished embossed paper is affixed to the center of the bottle. This label, adorned with the fragrance name and other decorative elements, adds a touch of opulence and refinement. The golden label catches the light, drawing attention to the prestigious nature of the fragrance within.

To further enhance its prestige and desirability, the deluxe Parfum flacon was presented in an elegant presentation box. This colorful packaging featured branding and decorative embossed embellishments that mirrored the sophistication of the fragrance. The presentation box not only protected the flacon but also elevated the overall experience, making it a luxurious gift or a treasured addition to a personal collection.

The Conquête flacon by Lancôme is a testament to the meticulous artistry and dedication to excellence that characterized the era. Its design elements, from the fine crystal material to the intricate dimpling and opulent labeling, all contribute to its status as a timeless piece of fragrance history.

Fate of the Fragrance:

During World War II, many luxury goods, including perfumes like those from Lancôme, faced import restrictions or were halted altogether due to various reasons, including resource allocation, economic priorities, and trade disruptions caused by the war. The importation of such fragrances to the US was indeed affected during this period, and it wasn't until after the war ended in 1945 that trade resumed and products like Lancôme fragrances could return to US soil. This interruption in importation was a common occurrence for many luxury goods during times of conflict or economic strain.

A 1946 newspaper ad stated that "The first envoy of the French perfume industry arrived in America a short time ago. Mme. Elsi Cramer, a representative for Lancome, had much to say about American women and the subject of perfume. Madame claims that the American woman chooses many scents but never really tries to discover anything about perfume bases, the floral mixtures, or how the perfume is packaged. She is primarily interested in which scent will last the longest. Mme. Cramer declares that no one should ask that of any perfume! Instead, she says, that by carrying a small vial of your favorite perfume and dabbing on a few drops once of twice during the course of the evening, you will find that your perfume will achieve its purpose of being fresh and 'just put on.' 

Tropiques, Fleches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquete, Qui Sait (pronounced key-say, Who Knows?) and Bocages are the newest perfumes in her line. The artistic packaging and the bottles themselves have been perfected after many long years of searching for the right thing.

American women once again may thrill to the wonderful French perfumes. And Mme. Cramer said that the formulas for these very same scents were closely guarded during the German occupation of France. So the return of French perfumes to the American market should mean a little more than just a comment of "oh, some more sweet smelling stuff has just arrived!" Taken into account should be the hard work, the scarcity of materials to work with and the hardships endured during the period when France was subjugated. Your perfume will mean much more to you when you think of those things."

Lancôme's fragrance line "Conquete" was discontinued in 1965. Like many products, perfumes included, Lancôme may discontinue certain scents for various reasons, including changes in consumer preferences, evolving market trends, or the company's strategic decisions regarding its product portfolio. "Conquete" was a notable fragrance in Lancôme's history, known for its floral chypre notes, but as with any product, its discontinuation may have been part of Lancôme's broader business strategy or response to market conditions at the time.