Delettrez: La Perfumerie du Monde Elegant

Parfumerie Delettrez - Blanc & Cie., Paris and New York

Founded in 1835, Parfumerie Delettrez was a prominent French perfume house located at 15 Rue Royale, Paris, and a branch in Long Island City, New York. Its legacy as a luxury fragrance producer began under the direction of chemist Delettrez, whose name quickly became synonymous with elegance and refinement. By 1853, the company had established itself as "La Parfumerie du Monde Elegant," or "The Perfumers of High Society," a title that reflected its commitment to crafting exquisite fragrances for the elite. Recognized for its pioneering role in the perfume industry, Delettrez earned two gold medals at the 1900 Paris Exposition, cementing its place among the top luxury brands of the time. In addition to perfumes, the company produced a full range of cosmetics, toiletries, and beauty preparations.

From its early years, Delettrez was a respected name in the world of luxury fragrance. As the company grew, it was absorbed by Blanc & Cie., an established perfumery house by 1892. Blanc & Cie. expanded its operations significantly, becoming a vast enterprise. The company had its wholesale offices at 15-17 Rue d'Enghien in Paris, a model steamworks in Neuilly-sur-Seine, and extensive flower farms near Grasse, France, where much of the raw material for its perfumes was cultivated. This expansion also saw the company open a thriving office in the United States, with its headquarters located at 41-43 Warren Street in New York City. Blanc & Cie. had additional depots in key cities, including Chicago, St. Louis, New Orleans, and San Francisco, marking their strong foothold in the American market.

The American division, under the management of Paul Monlun, a New York-born gentleman educated in Paris, played a crucial role in the company’s success in the United States. Monlun returned to the U.S. in 1883 and joined the perfumery industry, eventually taking charge of Delettrez-Blanc & Cie. operations in the U.S. By 1891, the company shifted from relying on agents to managing their operations directly, a move that proved highly successful. Under Monlun’s leadership, the business grew rapidly, doubling sales despite the challenging financial climate of the time. This was a testament to the quality of the perfumes and the effectiveness of their business strategies.

Blanc & Cie. was known not only for the high-quality perfumes they created but also for their refined aesthetic, evident in every aspect of their branding. Their packaging, bottles, and promotional materials all reflected the elegance for which French perfumery was known. One iconic piece of advertising was a lithograph featuring a French beauty displaying a ribbon bearing the "Delettrez" name, which became widely recognized in the U.S. market. Designed by Monlun himself, the image helped solidify the brand's image as a symbol of sophistication and luxury.

Their perfumes, such as Myrtis, Amaryllis du Japon, Virgin Violet, Helenia, Florentia, and Royal, became favorites among American consumers. The company’s dedication to protecting the integrity of its pricing structure was also evident in its business practices, as they instituted a policy requiring retailers to sign agreements pledging not to discount their products below the established retail prices. This strategy helped maintain the exclusivity and prestige of the brand.

In addition to their retail store in Paris, located at 5 Boulevard des Italiens, Delettrez maintained a notable presence in the United States. However, by 1931, advertisements began to indicate that Delettrez had ceased production. A 1936 newspaper article stated that the Delettrez cosmetics line was now being handled exclusively by the Markham Corner House, signaling a shift in the company’s operations. By the mid-1950s, Parfumerie Delettrez had officially ceased production, marking the end of an era for one of the most influential French perfume houses of the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Despite its closure, the legacy of Delettrez and Blanc & Cie. remains a testament to the artistry and sophistication that defined French perfumery. The house’s commitment to luxury, quality, and refinement in both its products and presentation set a standard that has continued to influence the fragrance industry for generations.

In the pages of Le Monde Illustré from 1860, the concept of personal elegance was deeply intertwined with the art of perfumery, and no detail was overlooked in the pursuit of refinement. The article thoughtfully reminded readers that even the humble handkerchief, often a neglected accessory, played an important role in one's toilette and required a fragrance of the highest taste. For those with a discerning palate, the options were clear: a light, floral bouquet of the fields or the delicate scent of the violet from Nice. These fragrances were not merely scents; they were illusions of nature, designed to transport one to a lush green meadow or a fragrant garden filled with freshly picked violets.

The perfumery of the Elegant World, as it was called, had mastered the art of capturing nature's essence in a bottle. The fresh and soft scent of the field flowers was so expertly distilled that it seemed to breathe life into the very air, evoking the peaceful tranquility of a country meadow. The violet of Nice, in particular, was a favorite. Its name alone brought a smile to one's face, for the violet was beloved for its sweet, subtle fragrance that seemed almost too perfect to be real. To experience the full effect of this essence, the article recommended turning to Mr. Delettrez, the director of the Perfumery of the Elegant World, who had perfected the art of creating such illusions.

Mr. Delettrez's offerings, including his vinegar, eau de toilette, and the coveted Bouquet de Violettes de Nice, were highly sought after by the aristocratic elite. His perfumery catered to a refined clientele who demanded nothing less than perfection, and his products were distinguished by their unparalleled quality and elegance. To illustrate the exceptional nature of his offerings, the article pointed to several of Delettrez's signature creations, each one reflecting the luxurious tastes of the time.

One of the standout products was the Eau de Cologne du Grand Cordon, which was considered the pinnacle of all Eau de Colognes, symbolizing the very essence of sophistication. Then there was the Soap of the Sovereigns, which was embossed with the coats of arms of various ruling powers, further emphasizing its exclusivity. Other notable products included the Soap of the Boudoirs, a luxurious soap designed for ladies' private quarters, and the Imperial Cream, which was highly prized for its ability to nourish and protect the skin. The Bouquet de Champs Pomade was another favorite, designed specifically for the hair, while the Valley Lily Cream was a substitute for cold cream and was used to maintain the complexion’s youthful glow.

Among the most sought-after preparations, however, was Lait de Cocoa, a miraculous cream known for its ability to erase freckles and smooth away wrinkles, returning even the most withered and aged faces to a youthful, radiant appearance. The product's claimed ability to rejuvenate the skin and restore its natural beauty made it a staple in the beauty regimens of the aristocracy.

In this detailed description of Delettrez's offerings, one can see how perfumery in the 19th century was not only about creating pleasant scents but also about offering an entire sensory experience that was designed to elevate one's status and elegance. The luxurious perfumes and cosmetics of Mr. Delettrez were part of a larger world of refinement that catered to the needs of the elite, helping them maintain their beauty and dignity while also providing a sense of escape into nature and luxury.

 

The perfumes of Delettrez:

• 1857 Brisas de Cintra
• 1867 Bouquet of Prince Imperial
• 1871 Impériale Russe
• 1871 Nuit Extase
• 1871 Myrthil
• 1873 Bouquet Mexican
• 1879 Eau de Cologne Russe
• 1880 Alexandra
• c1880 Aux Violettes Blanche de Siberie
• c1880 Aux Violettes Russes
• 1880 Bouquet Americain
• 1880 Bouquet Argentine
• 1880 Bouquet de Bresilien
• 1880 Bouquet de la Republique Bresilienne
• 1880 Bouquet de Manille
• 1880 Bouquet de Monde Elegante
• 1880 Bouquet de West End 
• 1880 Bouquet del Centenario de Colon
• 1880 Bouquet des Brises des Tropiques
• 1880 Bouquet des Champs
• 1880 Bouquet des Souverains
• 1880 Bouquet du President Etas-Unis de Bresil
• 1880 Bouquet du Vanezuela
• 1880 Bouquet du XX Siecle
• 1880 Cyclamen
• 1880 Esprit de Verveine des Indes
• 1880 Fleurs de France
• 1880 Fleurs de Mai
• 1880 Your Kisses
• 1880 Bouquet de Chantilly
• 1880 Imperial Delettrez
• 1880 Iris de Florence
• 1880 Juanita
• 1880 Lys de la Vallee
• 1880 Vanille
• 1880 White Rose (still sold in 1896)
• 1880 Marechale
• 1880 Mar de Plata 
• 1880 Muguet de Bois
• 1880 Musc (still sold in 1896)
• 1880 Oriental Cintrin
• 1880 Samko
• 1886 Palma
• 1886 Bouquet de Caroline
• 1886 Cuir de Russie
• 1886 Essence Bouquet
• 1886 Essence Celeste
• 1886 Forget-Me-Not
• 1886 Frangipane (still sold in 1896)
• 1886 Imperator 
• 1886 Kiss Me Quick
• 1886 Palma
• 1886 Paris Bouquet
• 1886 Rococo
• 1886 Chypre
• 1886 Miel d'Angleterre
• 1886 Osmhedia
• 1886 Sampaguita
• 1890 Amaryllis du Japon (still sold in 1896)
• 1890 Agua Ben a Frica
• 1890 Peau du d'Espagne Royale
• 1892 Chypre Royal
• 1892 Violette Russe
• 1893 Florentia
• 1893 Heliophar d'Arabie
• 1893 Helenia
• 1893 Heliotrope Royal
• 1893 Iris Royal
• 1893 Jockey Club
• 1893 Lilas Royal
• 1893 Lys de France (still sold in 1896)
• 1893 May Blossoms
• 1893 Muguet
• 1893 Rose Royal
• 1893 Sicyllia
• 1893 Stephanotis
• 1893 Violette
• 1893 Virgin Violet (still sold in 1896)
• 1893 Ylang-Ylang
• 1894 Eau de Cologne Grand Cordon
• 1894 Eau de Cologne des Families
• 1894 Fraise
• 1894 Inalda
• 1894 Parfumerie Cote d'Azur
• 1894 Parfumerie Imperator
• 1894 Parfumerie Odoris
• 1894 Rosee d'Oeillet
• 1894 Tzarevna
• 1894 Tzinnia
• 1894 Sweet Pea (still sold in 1896)
• 1894 Strenia
• 1894 Supra Violet
• 1894 Supra Mimosa
• 1895 Crab Apple Blossom
• 1895 Lily of the Valley
• 1895 Sweet Briar
• 1896 Heliotrope Blanc 
• 1896 Jockey Club
• 1896 White Lilac
• 1897 Agua Ben Frica
• 1897 Agua Celeste
• 1897 Agua de Florida
• 1897 Agua del Sol
• 1897 Foin Coupe 
• 1897 Celeste Rocico
• 1897 Trevol
• 1897 Violettes Blanches
• 1897 Opoponax
• 1897 Orvalho Celeste
• 1898 Stylis
• 1900 Le Menuet
• 1900 Trefle
• 1900 Quintessence 
• 1900 Royal Parfum
• 1900 Thailia
• 1901 Aglaia
• 1901 Violettes Celeste
• 1902 Myrtis 
• 1903 Lilas
• 1905 Camelys
• 1907 Esora
• 1907 Nymphas
• 1908 Alma Flor
• 1908 Brin d'Amour
• 1908 Idee Divine
• 1908 Oryalis
• 1908 Synha
• 1908 Violette Royale
• 1910 Sahary Djeli
• 1910 Le Jasmin
• 1910 Parfumerie du Monde Elegant
• 1910 Circa 
• 1914 Lais
• 1914 Cyclamen Roya
• 1914 Dixi
• 1914 Fleuri Libelia
• 1914 Floramar
• 1914 Floradille
• 1914 Lais
• 1914 Le Mimosa
• 1914 Le Essence Naturelles des Fleurs
• 1914 Lys Florentin
• 1914 Parfum de Colette
• 1914 Perlerette
• 1914 Present d'Amour
• 1914 Roi du Jour
• 1914 Rosa Ines
• 1914 Tout Fleuri
• 1914 Yellana
• 1914 Yvonnette
• 1914 Violet Pritanier
• 1914 Myrthis
• 1915 Aluria
• 1915 Florise
• 1915 Renee
• 1916 Zakieh
• 1919 Eve
• 1920 Parfum IX
• 1920 Reveillon
• 1922 Faveo
• 1923 Parfum XXIII
• 1923 Dizeine
• 1923 Carte Rouge
• 1923 Carte Jaune
• 1923 Carte Mauve 
• 1923 Carte Bleue 
• 1923 Carte Blanche
• 1923 Carte Noire
• 1924 Alba Gloriosa
• 1924 Exora
• 1924 Lianir
• 1924 Magnolia
• 1925 Bonheur D'Aimer
• 1925 Righi
• 1925 Esora
• 1925 Gita
• 1925 La Dans
• 1925 Cirta (Citra)
• 1925 Tourmaline
• 1926 La Danse des Fleurs
• 1926 Nuit Blanche 
• 1927 Silver Butterfly
• 1927 Jeanne Baird
• 1927 Parfum XVIII (String of Pearls)
• 1930 Inalda, reissue
• 1931 Reveillon 
• 1931 Parfum XXXV
• 1931 Parfum III
• 1931 Parfum XI
• 1931 Parfum XXXVI
• 1937 Crescendo (a light, spicy floral perfume, still sold in 1952)
• 1939 Bridal Wreath 
• 1939 Mainliner
• 1939 Fulfillment (still sold in 1955)
• 1939 Country Clover
• 1940 Wildflower (still sold in 1951)
• 1940 Racing Red (probably a lipstick)
• 1941 One Night
• 1941 Together
• 1941 Storm
• 1941 Moonlight & Lace (still sold in 1952)
• 1941 Awake
• 1945 Fleurs
• 1945 No. 508
• 1945 Ador Me
• 1946 Camellia (aldehydic woody perfume, still sold in 1955)

The following perfumes have been found, but I do not know their launch dates:

• Voler Temps

Delettrez Perfume: Myrtis - An Ode to Subtle Elegance, 1902:

In the early 1900s, Delettrez continued to enchant the elite with their impeccable fragrances, and Myrtis was perhaps one of their most beloved creations. Described as a "delicious surprise" for the elegant world, Myrtis was more than just a perfume—it was an experience of refined luxury. Released as a special offering, it was lauded for its exquisite subtlety, crafted to stand apart from the heavy, musk-based perfumes that dominated the market at the time. The fragrance was said to be delicate and fresh, a welcome departure from the more intense, sometimes overwhelming perfumes that were becoming common.

According to Le Journal in 1902, Myrtis was designed to provide a light and fresh alternative to the traditional musk-heavy scents. It was the perfect embodiment of elegance, capturing a fragrance that was both soft and sophisticated. The perfume’s delicate character was highlighted as an example of the artistry Delettrez was known for, as they were able to craft a scent that both pleased and captivated the senses without overwhelming them. For those curious about the fragrance, Le Journal recommended requesting a Myrtis-scented card from Delettrez’s Parisian headquarters on rue Royale, allowing potential customers to experience the “perfection” of this new creation before committing to a purchase.

In the same year, Le Gaulois remarked on the popularity of Myrtis, which had become a highly desirable gift during the Christmas and New Year seasons. Its appeal among "elegant ladies" was undeniable, and it was said to be a charming and captivating fragrance that everyone wanted. The fragrance was presented in a beautifully sculpted box, further enhancing its allure. The perfume’s presentation—an elegant gift wrapped in a box adorned with fine craftsmanship—exemplified Delettrez’s commitment to luxury, making Myrtis not just a scent but a coveted object of desire.

Le Matin also highlighted Myrtis as the perfect gift, describing the presentation as being even more enchanting because of the delicate figure of Cupid carved in old ivory. This figurine was part of the perfume's packaging and added a layer of charm and artistry to the experience. The subtlety and softness of the fragrance were praised, as it perfectly aligned with the refined tastes of Parisian society. Myrtis was described as a "sweet scent" that perfectly embodied the taste and elegance of the women it was designed for—sophisticated, charming, and uniquely delicate.

Even in 1903, Myrtis continued to capture attention. The Bulletin de la Société archéologique, historique & artistique mentioned that the Delettrez perfumery had created calendars for the year 1903 that featured Myrtis as a central theme, with a cover in relief imitation of ivory. This calendar, designed with the same attention to detail and elegance as their perfume, was a testament to how deeply the fragrance had become embedded in the cultural and social fabric of the time.

Based on its notes, Myrtis would likely be classified as a floriental fragrance. The combination of floral and oriental elements creates a balanced and refined scent profile, which was typical of the luxurious and sophisticated fragrances Delettrez was known for.

The top notes of myrtle and orange introduce a fresh, slightly herbaceous, and citrusy opening. Myrtle, which has a green, aromatic quality, brings a slightly woody and floral nuance, while orange offers a crisp, tangy, and uplifting sweetness. This combination provides an energizing start, with a hint of complexity from the myrtle.

The middle notes of Myrtis are a lush blend of white florals. Jasmine, orange blossom, and tuberose are rich, heady flowers, each contributing a creamy, sensual, and slightly sweet floral quality. Rose adds depth and elegance, while myrtle reappears to maintain the green, slightly herbal theme. This combination creates a luxurious floral heart, full of both warmth and complexity.

The base notes of vanilla, storax, and civet introduce a deeper, more sensual, and animalic dimension to the fragrance. Vanilla brings a sweet, comforting warmth, while storax adds a balsamic, resinous undertone that gives the fragrance richness and depth. Civet, known for its musky, animalic scent, adds a touch of earthiness and sensuality, rounding out the fragrance with a more exotic and oriental feel.

Given the predominance of florals in the heart notes, with the addition of sensual and slightly spicy-oriental base notes, Myrtis would best be classified as a floriental fragrance. The florals provide elegance and freshness, while the base adds a warmth and depth typical of oriental fragrances. The fragrance strikes a balance between fresh, delicate florals and the more complex, earthy richness of the oriental notes, making it both an alluring and sophisticated scent.

The fragrance’s impact on society was profound. Myrtis was not just a perfume; it was a symbol of refined taste and sophistication. The combination of its delicate scent and artistic packaging made it a favorite among the most fashionable and discerning members of Parisian society, and its legacy continues to evoke a sense of the elegance and grace of the early 20th century. Delettrez had once again succeeded in creating a fragrance that was both a sensory delight and a marker of the highest class.

Delettrez Perfume Bottles: