Despite their initial success and expansion to offices in Paris and Istanbul, Parfums Ramses faced financial difficulties leading to their downfall. The elegant façade of their shop was demolished in 1929 after the company failed. However, the Ramses name persisted in the perfume industry until the 1940s, albeit on products of notably lower quality than their original luxurious offerings.
"The Vanity Box prides itself on the fact that it is nothing if nor up-to-date. And so we have as soon as possible fallen in line with that universally predominant interest of the moment, the interest in the Tut-Ankh-Amen explorations and the land of Egypt. The reign of Egypt, and things Egyptian, is established in the mode. We have the Egyptian silhouette for frocks, and hats, and headdresses. We have on them Egyptian motifs and embroidery. We have Egyptian fashioned jewelry, we have Egyptian sandals. And now we have some wonderful Egyptian perfumes. it is with those that we concern ourselves this month.Understand, though, that these particular perfumes are not just Egyptian in character, not just opportunity called Egyptian to suit the fad of the hour. But the real article, direct from Cairo, products as truly exotic and of the country as King Tut-Ankh-Amen himself. Blended there by the famous Egyptian firm Ramses, who have been perfumers to European royalty since 1683, these perfumes are bottled in Paris. And having become all the rage in Paris, and in London, New York is now being given its chance at them.At least that's Selena Royle's story, "she sticks to it," and we see no possible reason for doubting her.It was from Miss Royle, who is playing the ever-faithful Solveig in Peer Gynst, that we learned of these very marvelous Egyptian perfumes. She has been one of those most interested n the "Tut" explorations...in fact in everything connected with Egypt since a recent trip to Cairo where she fell under the spell - as who doesn't? - of the mystery and exotic charm of the Land of the Nile. An ardent admirer, knowing this and wishing to lay an offering on her birthday shrine, sent Miss Royle one of these Egyptian perfumes...We were shown the bottle, a most delicious affair of Baccarat crystal - and the name Baccarat stands for the last word de luxe in crystal bottles - shaped like a mummy case. The perfume it contained was called "Le Secret du Sphinx" and was considered to have a special affinity for blondes, Miss Royle was told.So enchanted was she with this perfume that wishing in her turn to make a present she went out to see if she could find the same thing. And not only did she find "The Secret of the Sphinx" but two other Ramses creations at the same place: "Ramses IV" and "Ivresse d'Amour," "The Intoxication of Love" - an enchanting name, n'est-ce-pas?, and an enchanting perfume..."Literally," says Miss Royle, and adds smiling," In fact I think an excellent name for all these odors would be "vamping perfumes." They have the most luring way of clinging, of hanging round without being too pervasive or too heavy."Miss Royle had us "all stirred up" as the saying goes, over the perfumes. We proceeded at once to hunt up their importer, and verified all that had been told us. We found the delight and mystery of the East in their essences, compounded from secret formulas that have been handed down since the days of the Pharaohs. In them is a touch of musk, of incense, of amber, of aromatic spices. They made us think of Stevenson's famous line, "musky, dusky, vivid, true," which though invoked for a woman is quite as applicable for a perfume. We were told that they were among the most expensive perfumes manufactured in the world, "Ramsès IV" and "Ivresse d'Amour," for instance, selling for twenty-five dollars a bottle.Sequentially we have a nice little tid-bit to offer. In order to acquaint you with these Egyptian perfumes the importers have made an arrangement with us, whereby for 50 cents they will send you a bag-sized bottle, in a silver-gilt container, of any of these three odors mentioned. To help you in your selection we suggest "Sphinx d'Or" for blondes; "Ramsès IV" for brunettes; and "Ivresse d'Amour" for intermediates,"" though," says Miss Royle, "you may 'vamp' equally well with any of them." There is a long glass stopper in the bottle, with which you may perfume your cigarettes, perfumed cigarettes being the latest fad among certain exclusives.(You may obtain a bag sized bottle of any one of these three vamping Egyptian perfumes Sphinx d Or Ramsès IV or Ivresse d Amour by sending fifty cents in stamps or money order to The Vanity Box, care the THEATRE MAGAZINE, 2 West 45th St., New York City.)"
The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, 1916:
"The perfumes of Egypt. The mystery, the subtlety, the fascination of the East, has been caught and translated into some exotic new perfume actually distilled in Egypt. We shall present these perfumes to the women of America for the first time tomorrow. Secret de Femme, Hanem, L'Etoile d'Egypte, Rose Antique, L'Ivresse d'Amour, Temr Henna, Secret du Sphinx, Folie d'Opium. Each one is unusual and different and has been most charmingly bottled. The large flasks are $12.75, but smaller ones may be had at $1.25. Savon de Ramses are round balls of soap wrapped in satin, 40 cents a cake. A unique hand-painted case which suggests the top of a mummy case, contains a whole collection of these amazing fragrances. It is $60."
The 1916 article from The Brooklyn Daily Eagle introduces the American audience to the perfumes of Egypt, emphasizing their exotic allure and connection to the mystique of the East. These perfumes, distilled in Egypt, encapsulate the region's mystery and fascination, presenting a collection of unique and different scents.
The perfumes mentioned include:
- Secret de Femme
- Hanem
- L'Etoile d'Egypte
- Rose Antique
- L'Ivresse d'Amour
- Temr Henna
- Secret du Sphinx
- Folie d'Opium
These fragrances are described as having been beautifully bottled, with large flasks priced at $12.75 and smaller bottles available for $1.25. Additionally, the Savon de Ramses, round balls of soap wrapped in satin, are offered at 40 cents a cake.
The highlight of the collection is a unique hand-painted case resembling the top of a mummy case, which contains the full array of these captivating fragrances, priced at $60. This luxurious presentation underscores the perfumes' exotic and high-quality nature, aligning with the era's fascination with ancient Egypt and its cultural treasures.
- The deluxe perfumes at $12.75 in 1916 would cost $384.40 in 2024.
- The cheaper bottles in plain glass bottles with frosted stoppers at $1.25 in 1916 would cost $37.69 in 2024.
- The soaps at 40 cents per cake in 1916 would cost $12.06 in 2024.
- The luxurious mummy case containing the perfumes cost $60 in 1916, is equivalent to $1,808.93 in 2024.
- Ambre de Nubie retailed for $16.25 in 1920, is equivalent to $264.00 in 2024.
- Secret du Sphinx retailed for $20.00 in 1920, is equivalent to $324.92 in 2024.
- Linkerie retailed for $6.50 in 1922, is equivalent to $120.60 in 2024.
- Sphinx d'Or retailed for $37.00 in 1922, is equivalent to $686.47 in 2024.
- Hycsos retailed for $17 in 1922, is equivalent to $315.40 in 2024.
- Ramses IV retailed for $25.00 in 1923, is equivalent to $466.59 in 2024.
- Sidon retailed for $8.98 in 1923, is equivalent to $167.60 in 2024.
- Douce Melodie retailed for $9.95 in 1923, is equivalent to $185.70 in 2024.
- Ioldys retailed for $11.50 in 1923, is equivalent to $214.63 in 2024.
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The perfumes of Ramses:
- 1916 L'Etoile de Egypte
- 1916 Secret de Femme
- 1916 Hanem
- 1916 Temr Henna
- 1916 Rose Antique (still sold in 1927)
- 1916 Le Secret du Sphinx (still sold in 1927)
- 1916 L'Ivresse d'Amour
- 1916 Folie d'Opium
- 1918 Lotus Sacre
- 1919 Ramses IV
- 1920 Sidon (still sold in 1923)
- 1920 Ioldys (still sold in 1927)
- 1920 Ambre de Nubie (still sold in 1927)
- 1920 Sphinx D'Or (still sold in 1932)
- 1920 Chypre
- 1920 Origan
- 1920 Narcisse
- 1920 Rose
- 1920 Lilac
- 1920 Violette
- 1920 Bouquet
- 1920 Jasmin
- 1920 Orchid
- 1920 Jasmin d'Egypte
- 1920 Hycsos (still sold in 1929)
- 1920 Folie de Fleurs (still sold in 1927)
- 1920 Douce Melodie (still sold in 1923)
- 1922 Linkerie
- 1927 Obelisque Sacre
- 1927 Tut-Ankh-Amen
- 1927 Lilas Rouge
- 1920s Paris Vertige
Bottles:
As for the name, Sphinx d'Or refers to the iconic symbol of ancient Egypt, renowned for its enigmatic and majestic presence. Depicted as a mythical creature with the body of a lion and the head of a human, ram, or other animal, the Sphinx has captivated the imagination of people for thousands of years.The most famous Egyptian Sphinx is the Great Sphinx of Giza, located on the Giza Plateau near Cairo, Egypt. Believed to have been built during the reign of the Pharaoh Khafre (c. 2558–2532 BCE), the Great Sphinx is one of the largest and oldest monumental sculptures in the world. It measures approximately 73 meters (240 feet) in length and stands 20 meters (66 feet) tall.The Great Sphinx is carved out of limestone bedrock and depicts a mythical creature with the body of a lion and the head of a human. It faces directly eastward, gazing out over the ancient necropolis of Giza. The Sphinx is believed to have been constructed as a guardian figure, symbolizing strength, wisdom, and protection.Over the centuries, the Great Sphinx has become an enduring symbol of ancient Egypt, inspiring countless works of art, literature, and mythology. Its mysterious smile and imposing presence continue to intrigue visitors from around the world, drawing millions of tourists to the Giza Plateau each year.In addition to the Great Sphinx of Giza, there are other sphinxes found throughout Egypt, often serving as guardians of temples, tombs, and royal complexes. These sphinxes vary in size and design but share a common symbolism of protection and divine power, reflecting the ancient Egyptian belief in the afterlife and the role of mythical creatures in safeguarding the deceased on their journey to eternity.
The exquisite packaging further emphasized its opulence, as the bottle was housed in a silk-padded box, offering both protection and an added layer of sophistication. In 1922, this luxurious perfume retailed for $37.00, a significant amount at the time, reflecting its premium quality and the meticulous craftsmanship involved in its presentation.
Described as "aromatic and spicy," Ambre de Nubie was notable for its distinctive packaging. The perfume was housed in an unusual figural Baccarat crystal bottle, featuring a lion-headed god adorned with a "nemes" headdress and the cow-horned sun disk crown typically associated with the goddess Hathor. The presence of a beard on the god suggests a unique blend of divine attributes, enhancing the bottle's exotic and mystical appeal. The shape of the bottle mimicked a sarcophagus, further emphasizing its connection to ancient Egyptian culture.
The Egyptian lion-headed goddess is likely "Sekhmet." Sekhmet is a prominent deity in ancient Egyptian religion and mythology, often depicted with the head of a lioness. She is associated with war, destruction, healing, and protection.Sekhmet is typically depicted as a fierce and powerful goddess, embodying the ferocity and strength of a lioness. She was believed to have the ability to unleash destruction and chaos upon her enemies, but she also had a healing aspect, as she was thought to possess the power to ward off illness and disease.In ancient Egyptian mythology, Sekhmet was considered the daughter of the sun god Ra and was often depicted as his protector. She was also closely associated with the goddess Hathor, who represented love, beauty, and motherhood.Sekhmet was often invoked by pharaohs and warriors for protection in battle, as well as by healers and physicians for assistance in curing ailments. Temples dedicated to Sekhmet were built throughout ancient Egypt, where rituals and offerings were made to honor her and seek her favor.Overall, Sekhmet played a significant role in ancient Egyptian religion and was revered as a powerful and multifaceted deity, embodying both destruction and healing energies. Her lion-headed form symbolized strength, courage, and divine protection.
The Egyptian double plumed crown was a significant symbol of royalty and divine authority in ancient Egypt. Known as the "atef" crown, it consisted of two tall feathers or plumes mounted on a headdress. This distinctive crown was associated with various Egyptian deities and pharaohs throughout history.One of the most notable representations of the double plumed crown is seen in depictions of the god Osiris, thegod of the afterlife, resurrection, and fertility in ancient Egyptian mythology. Osiris is often depicted wearing the double plumed crown as a symbol of his divine authority and sovereignty over the realm of the dead.In addition to its association with Osiris, the double plumed crown was also worn by pharaohs, symbolizing their divine kingship and connection to the gods. It was typically worn during ceremonial and ritual occasions, emphasizing the pharaoh's role as a mediator between the gods and the people of Egypt.The double plumed crown represented the union of Upper and Lower Egypt, with each plume symbolizing one of the Two Lands. The tall feathers or plumes were often made of ostrich feathers and were sometimes adorned with decorative elements such as the solar disk or the uraeus (cobra symbol) to further emphasize the pharaoh's divine status and authority.Overall, the Egyptian double plumed crown was a powerful symbol of royalty, divinity, and the union of Upper and Lower Egypt, serving as a visual representation of the pharaoh's legitimacy and authority as the ruler of the ancient Egyptian civilization.
"Essence, Ramses IV: The tomb of a mighty Pharaoh. The heat of the desert stirs a vague whiff of oriental perfumes. A fragrance at once sweet and penetrating, that 3,000 years has not been able to dissipate. The dream of Egypt was Eternity. Her odeurs have the solidity of granite and endure as long!'"
Canopic jars were a significant feature of ancient Egyptian funerary practices. These vessels were used in the mummification process to store and preserve the organs of the deceased. The term "canopic" refers to the city of Canopus in ancient Egypt, where these jars were believed to have originated.The ancient Egyptians believed in the importance of preserving the body for the afterlife. During the mummification process, the organs of the deceased—such as the liver, lungs, stomach, and intestines—were removed and embalmed separately. These organs were then stored in four individual canopic jars, each representing one of the four sons of Horus, who were believed to protect the organs.The four sons of Horus and their associated organs were:
- Imsety (human-headed): Guardian of the liver.
- Hapi (baboon-headed): Guardian of the lungs.
- Duamutef (jackal-headed): Guardian of the stomach.
- Qebehsenuef (falcon-headed): Guardian of the intestines.
Each canopic jar was typically made of pottery or stone and had a lid shaped like the head of one of the protective deities. The lids were often intricately carved and decorated with symbolic motifs.In some cases, the canopic jars were placed in a special chest or shrine within the tomb. Over time, the design and style of canopic jars evolved, reflecting changes in Egyptian religious beliefs and artistic preferences. Today, these artifacts provide valuable insights into ancient Egyptian burial practices and religious beliefs.
The nemes headdress is an iconic symbol of ancient Egyptian royalty, most commonly associated with the pharaohs. It is a striped headcloth made of stiffened linen, typically adorned with a uraeus (a rearing cobra) at the front and sometimes with a golden diadem or headband.
The nemes headdress is instantly recognizable for its distinctive shape and design. It covers the entire head and falls down the back in a series of pleats, giving it a regal and imposing appearance. The stripes on the nemes headdress are believed to represent the folds of cloth or the pleats of a royal headcloth.
The uraeus, positioned at the center of the forehead, is a symbol of divine authority and protection in ancient Egyptian mythology. It is often depicted with its hood spread, ready to strike against any threats to the pharaoh's rule. The presence of the uraeus on the nemes headdress signifies the pharaoh's status as a divine ruler and his connection to the gods.
The nemes headdress was worn by pharaohs during ceremonial and official occasions, such as coronations, religious rituals, and public appearances. It was a symbol of the pharaoh's authority, power, and divine mandate to rule over Egypt.
Today, the nemes headdress remains one of the most enduring symbols of ancient Egyptian royalty, immortalized in countless works of art, sculpture, and popular culture. Its distinctive appearance continues to evoke the grandeur and majesty of ancient Egypt and its legendary rulers.
A mummy case, also known as a coffin or sarcophagus, was a key element in the burial practices of ancient Egypt. These elaborately decorated and intricately crafted containers were used to house the bodies of the deceased, providing protection and serving as a vessel for the journey to the afterlife.Mummy cases were typically made from various materials, including wood, stone, or metal, depending on the wealth and social status of the deceased. They were often adorned with elaborate carvings, paintings, and inscriptions, depicting scenes from Egyptian mythology, religious rituals, and the journey of the soul through the afterlife.The decoration of mummy cases served both practical and symbolic purposes. On a practical level, the elaborate designs and inscriptions were believed to help guide the deceased safely through the afterlife. Symbolically, the images and texts conveyed the deceased's status, achievements, and aspirations, ensuring their eternal legacy.Mummy cases were often placed inside nested layers of coffins, with each layer providing additional protection and symbolism. The outermost coffin was typically the most ornate and grandiose, while the innermost coffin was closest to the mummy itself.Today, mummy cases serve as invaluable artifacts, providing valuable insights into ancient Egyptian beliefs, culture, and craftsmanship. They are often found in museums and archaeological sites around the world, where they continue to fascinate and intrigue visitors with their beauty and symbolism.
A 1923 advertisement captures the essence and allure of Le Secret du Sphinx:
"Blended at Cairo, Egypt, since 1683. Bottled at Paris in the world's most beautiful containers of Baccarat crystal. 'The most expensive perfume made!' All the delight and the mystery of the Land of the Nile are in these essences. All the art of Paris in the superb, Egypt-inspired flasques that contain them. In their crystal depths lurk secrets old as the spiceries of Arabia—the balm and tinctures of Gilead—the scented woods of Sheba. An elite Egyptian perfume blended from the veritable, historical essences that were known and used since the ancient days of Tut-ankh-Amen. The choice of the French aristocracy, intelligentsia, and theatrical profession. Destined to play the leading role with the American Gentlewoman.
Essence, Le Secret du Sphinx: An evening visit to the Sphinx. The mystical face of stone. The mouth smiling mockingly in the moonlight. The darkness of the shadows thickened with an ancient, aromatic incense of a forgotten Pharaoh.
Poudre, Le Secret du Sphinx: A face powder of exceptional fineness, imbued with the rare Essence, Le Secret du Sphinx. Combining the art of modern Paris with the glamour of ancient Egypt. Obtainable in Blanche, Naturelle, and Rachel."
This advertisement emphasizes the perfume's rich history and luxurious presentation, positioning it as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. The evocative description of an evening visit to the Sphinx, filled with the fragrance of ancient incense, captures the mystique and timeless allure of ancient Egypt, blending it seamlessly with the artistry of modern Paris.
In 1922, Hycsos retailed for $17.50, positioning it as a premium scent targeted at individuals who appreciated unique and distinctive fragrances. The combination of its daring scent profile, luxurious packaging, and premium pricing made Hycsos a sought-after perfume among those seeking sophistication and individuality.
The fan-shaped stopper further enhances the elegance of the bottle, providing a striking contrast to the scarab shape while maintaining a cohesive design theme.
Packaged in a box covered with green satin, Paris Vertige's presentation exudes sophistication and refinement. The green satin adds a touch of opulence and complements the perfume's name, evoking the allure and excitement of the bustling streets of Paris.
Overall, Paris Vertige promises an experience of luxury and intrigue, both in its fragrance and its meticulously crafted packaging.
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