Frederick Stearns

 Frederick Stearns & Co., Detroit: The Rise of a Perfume and Pharmaceutical Giant

Frederick Stearns & Co., a prominent firm in Detroit, is a distinguished example of a successful enterprise blending pharmaceutical expertise with the art of perfumery. Founded in 1855 by Frederick Stearns, the company initially operated as a pharmaceutical business before expanding into the perfume industry. While its core operations were rooted in the manufacture of medicinal products, perfumery accounted for a significant portion of its portfolio, eventually establishing Stearns as a key player in the American fragrance market.

Origins and Early Growth

Frederick Stearns began his journey with modest means, having received a common-school education. Despite these early challenges, his relentless drive and entrepreneurial spirit allowed him to build a thriving business. By 1882, the company was incorporated under the name Frederick Stearns & Co., with the founder stepping down in 1887, leaving behind a successful business and a remarkable legacy. Under the leadership of his son, Frederick K. Stearns, the company flourished, becoming a key figure in both the pharmaceutical and perfume industries.

In 1893, the firm had grown substantially, boasting a fully paid-up capital of $200,000 and employing over 500 people. The company’s expansive facilities, including a block-long Detroit factory, a laboratory in Windsor, Ontario, and an office in New York, reflected its extensive operations. Stearns' ability to integrate both pharmaceutical and perfumery production set the company apart in an increasingly competitive market.

The Art and Science of Perfumery

While Stearns & Co. was primarily known for its pharmaceutical achievements, its perfumes gained significant attention for their quality and sophistication. The company’s commitment to producing high-quality fragrances was evident in the care they took with every aspect of production. Stearns imported only the finest French pomades and essential oils directly from Grasse, ensuring that the ingredients used in their perfumes were of the highest standard. Their dedication to quality extended to the equipment used in production, including specialized machinery designed to ensure uniformity in every bottle.

Stearns perfumes were renowned for their delicate yet abundant fragrances. Their bouquets were made from established formulae, aged for months to ensure a smooth, blended quality. The perfumes were described as having “an abundance of fragrance without loudness, delicacy with sweetness, and freedom from sharpness,” qualities that made them highly sought after. The company emphasized the importance of subtlety and refinement in their fragrances, aligning with the tastes of discerning consumers who valued elegance and sophistication.

Stearns' Iconic Fragrances

Stearns' perfume offerings included a wide variety of classic and original fragrances that became favorites among consumers. Among their notable scents were Amorita, English Lilac, Cleopatra, 4 Roses, Kalanthe, American Beauty Rose, and Luculia. These fragrances were the result of careful blending and meticulous formulation, combining floral notes with a refined balance that resonated with their clientele.

In 1884, Stearns introduced a new line of perfumes, including Ideal Bouquet, Olive Blossom, and Erminie, which quickly gained popularity. By the late 1880s, they added even more distinctive scents to their portfolio, such as Amorita, May Blossom, and 4 Roses, followed by newer offerings like Nadjy. The firm’s fragrance repertoire was known for its constant innovation, blending classic floral notes with new combinations to appeal to evolving tastes.

The Suprema line, launched in 1901, became one of Stearns' most successful series. It featured single-flower perfumes, including Trailing Arbutus, Lily of the Valley, White Rose, Locust Blossom, Jockey Club, Lilac, and Violet. These scents were widely recognized for their purity and elegance, with some, like Sadira, American Beauty Rose, Amorita, and Day Dreams, remaining staples in the Stearns collection well into the 1930s and 1940s.

Innovation and Global Expansion

Stearns was also a trailblazer in the global perfume market. The company understood the importance of sourcing raw materials from the best suppliers worldwide. They imported pomades from Grasse, rose attar from Kezanlik, ambergris from Australia, ylang-ylang from Manila, and musk from China. Their commitment to excellence was not only reflected in their ingredients but also in their production methods. Stearns was known for aging their tinctures for months, allowing the ingredients to blend and mature, which resulted in perfumes with a softer, more harmonious quality.

By 1893, Stearns had reached impressive production levels, manufacturing nearly 40,000 pounds of bulk goods annually. The firm primarily sold its perfumes through the drug trade, which helped establish strong relationships with retailers and build customer loyalty. This distribution model, focused on quality and consistency, ensured that Stearns perfumes maintained a reputable presence in the marketplace.

The Stearns Legacy in Detroit’s Pharmaceutical Industry

Beyond its accomplishments in perfumery, Stearns & Co. played a pivotal role in shaping the pharmaceutical industry in Detroit. By the early 1900s, Detroit had become a major center for pharmaceutical manufacturing, surpassing other cities in the United States. The firm’s commitment to quality and research laid the foundation for this growth. Stearns was known for his scientific curiosity and dedication to expanding the pharmacopeia, sending expeditions to remote areas like the Amazon and Africa in search of new medicinal plants.

The company’s success in pharmaceuticals allowed it to invest in the perfume industry, where its expertise in chemistry and botanical extraction techniques was put to good use. Stearns & Co.’s contributions to both sectors helped cement Detroit’s place as an industrial powerhouse in the early 20th century.

A Global Brand

Stearns’ commitment to excellence extended beyond the United States. The company established laboratories and offices in Canada, Australia, New Zealand, India, and South Africa, expanding its reach globally. As Stearns retired and his son took over, the company continued to thrive, contributing to Detroit’s industrial reputation. In 1896, the company founded the Stearns Fellowship at the College of Pharmacy of the University of Michigan, further solidifying its commitment to education and innovation in the pharmaceutical field.

The firm’s new headquarters in 1900, located at Jefferson and Bellevue Avenues, was one of the most modern and comprehensive pharmaceutical facilities of its time. This sprawling laboratory was equipped to meet the growing demands of the business and included divisions dedicated to perfumes, digestive ferments, fine soaps, and other specialties.

Frederick Stearns & Co. stands as a testament to the power of innovation, dedication to quality, and a keen understanding of consumer needs. The company’s success in both pharmaceuticals and perfumery set it apart as a leader in the American manufacturing sector, contributing significantly to the growth of Detroit as a major industrial city. The firm’s legacy continues to influence the perfume industry, particularly in the United States, where Stearns' commitment to excellence in fragrance production and quality remains an enduring standard.

 

Pharmaceutical Record and Weekly Market Review, Volume 14, 1892:

"We illustrate herewith a new method which Frederick Stearns & Co. Detroit, Mich, have adopted in putting their American Beauty Rose on the market. This package, it will be observed, has a peculiar fitness for holiday display, being exceptionally neat and attractive. The bottle is oval in shape of the style known as "A" Special French Oval, and is enclosed in a handsomely embossed box of oblong octagonal design. The perfume itself sustains the reputation for excellence, which the products of this firm have established.  Frederick Stearns and Co. are also calling special attention prominently to their Amorita Perfume, which is to as an odor of rare and lingering sweetness evidently possessed of qualities of permanence is the true test of a really fine perfume. This perfume is put up in a tall square bottle with cut lapidary stopper, which is enclosed within a tight fitting box of chocolate colored paper."

The perfumes of Stearns:

• 1880 Cassie
• 1883 Euxenia 
• 1883 Kalanthe 
• 1883 Luculia 
• 1888 Jockey Club
• 1888 Heliotrope
• 1888 Clove Pink
• 1888 White Rose
• 1888 White Lilac
• 1888 Patchouly
• 1888 Frangipanni
• 1888 Musk
• 1888 Upper Ten
• 1888 Rose Geranium
• 1888 Tea Rose
• 1888 Opoponax
• 1888 New Mown Hay
• 1888 Lily of the Valley
• 1888 Moss Rose
• 1888 Wood Violet
• 1888 West End
• 1888 Ess Bouquet
• 1888 True English Violet
• 1888 Stephanotis
• 1888 Tonquin Musk
• 1888 White Pond Lily
• 1888 Rondeletia
• 1888 Ylang Ylang
• 1888 Amorita
• 1888 4 Roses 
• 1888 Olive Blossom 
• 1888 Erminie 
• 1888 May Blossom 
• 1888 Nadjy 
• 1888 Ideal Bouquet
• 1892 American Beauty Rose
• 1892 Crab Apple Blossom
• 1892 Cleopatra
• 1892 West India Bay Rum
• 1894 Purple Lilac
• 1896 Czarina, a line of perfumes
• 1896 Rosalys
• 1896 Czarina Violettes
• 1896 Czarina Roses
• 1896 Czarina Carnations
• 1898 Sweet Marie
• 1898 Country Club Bouquet
• 1892 Hesperia
• 1910 Honeysuckle
• 1901 Lorna
• 1901 Suprema (a line)
• 1902 Yolande
• 1903 Blush Roses
• 1903 Bouquet de Luxe
• 1903 Czarina Daisies
• 1903 Czarina Trefle
• 1903 Crystal Velvet
• 1903 Eudora
• 1903 L'Aiglon
• 1903 Parma Pink
• 1903 Perlet
• 1903 Rosamond
• 1903 Thelma
• 1903 Winnie Davis
• 1903 Zymole
• 1905 Pompadour
• 1906 Zira
• 1906 American Girl 
• 1907 Fluffy Ruffles
• 1908 Lamballe
• 1910 Synthetol
• 1910 Concress
• 1914 Eterno
• 1916 Chin Chin
• 1917 Day Dreams/Day Dream
• 1919 Jazz
• 1919 L'Amusette
• 1920 Sadira
• 1928 Golden Dawn
• 1935 Desirez Moi

The girl's name Sadira is of Persian origin, and its meaning is "lotus tree". The lotus is of great significance in various Eastern religions.

 
"Euxenia" takes its name from "Eu", meaning "beautiful" and "Xenos", meaning a "stranger" in the Greek language and is the perfume of a pretty yellowed plant Eugenia grata of Chile in South America. Its odor was described as being "peculiarly sweet and fascinating."

"Luculia" derives its name from the sweet Luculia, Swa Nepalese name of a rare and fragrant pink flowered tree of Nepal. Its botanical name is Luculia pinciana. This perfume with its musky-jasmine scent was described as being "extremely fragrant and lasting." Top notes: cassie, neroli, benzyl acetate, linalol, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate, bergamot, geranium, orange. Middle notes: rose, tuberose, indol, jasmine absolute, orange blossom, orris, farnesol, methyl nonylacetaldehyde. Base notes: Ambreine, vanilla, storax, styrax, sandalwood, civet, ambrette, ambergris, tolu balsam, benzoin, musk, styrolyl alcohol.

"Kalanthe" a name from the Greek "Kalos" and "Anthos", a beautiful flower, the perfume of the Calanthe versicolor, an orchid from the exotic Isle of Mauritius in the East Indian Ocean. The perfume was described as being both "intensely sweet and delicate." Top notes: neroli, bergamot. Middle notes: ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine, violet, rose. Base notes: benzoin, terpineol, coumarin, musk, rhodium

"Amorita" was claimed by Stearns to be "without question the most delightful bouquet ever devised." They said that it had "a peculiar springy refreshing character which is delightful never cloys or tires one as do too sweet things." In their opinion, it was the "finest bouquet" they had. Top notes: rose geranium, cassie, bergamot, lavender, neroli, lemon. Middle notes: rose, violet, jasmine, orris, clove, tuberose, orange blossom. Base notes: vanilla, patchouli, ambergris, musk, coumarin, civet.

Stearns claimed that their "May Blossom" exceled the imported "May Bells" perfume. Its "peculiar, delicate, yet lasting sweetness," made it the "favorite second only to Amorita." Top notes: orange blossom, cassie, bergamot, neroli, rose geranium, linaloe, lemon, orange, citron. Middle notes: rose, jasmine, violet, tuberose, geranium, heliotropin, ylang ylang, orris, reseda, cinnamon, raspberry. Base notes: vanillin, almond, musk, ambergris, ambrette, tolu balsam, civet, styrax, lignum aloe, terpineol, coumarin.

Stearns "4 Roses" combined in one bouquet, the fragrance and sweetness of the perfumes of the White, Jacqueminot, Marechal Niel, and Noisette roses which are respectively in color, white, deep red, yellow, and pink. The perfume was described as "the sweetest and most intense rose perfume on market surpassing in fragrance" even the perennial classic, "White Rose."  Top notes:  palmarosa, lemon, thyme, rose, cassie, bergamot, sweet orange, neroli bigarade, petitgrain, linaloe, geraniol, citronellyl acetate, aldehyde C10, Norol, phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol. Middle notes: honey, orange blossom, ylang ylang, clove, jasmine, rose, ionone, orris, violet, rose geranium, tuberose. Base notes: patchouli, musk, civet, tolu balsam, ambergris, sandalwood, benzoic acid, cedar, benzoin, styrax, vetiver, vanilla, tolu balsam, tonka bean.

Stearns reported that their "Erminie" perfume "gained many friends" who choose it on account of its described fragrance and "delicacy."

"Ideal Bouquet" was described as having "a delightful odor" and well replaced the previous favorite, "Mary Stuart." The Ideal Bouquet, was in imitation of Houbigant's Ideal perfume. Top notes: cassie, orange, neroli, verbena, lavender, mandarin, bergamot, clove. Middle notes: methyl ionone, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, Iraldeine, iseoeugenol, orange blossom. Base notes: musk, coumarin, civet, vanillin, costus.

"Olive Blossom" became very popular and was said to be "always good." Top notes: cassie, violet, rose

Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang. Base notes: ambergris, musk.

"Nadjy" was described by Stearns as being the "most persistent sweet odor" they had at the time.

In addition to the above special odors which Stearns manufactured, particular attention is to be given to the following general favorites: "White Rose," "Lily of the Valley," "Heliotrope," "Opoponax," "Jockey Club," "Frangipanni," "Stephanotis," "English Violet," "Ylang Ylang," and others.

"White Rose" was said to have "a charm about it that fascinates everybody." Described as having a "peculiar freshness" which it "retains indefinitely" and its "mellow and rich sweetness" always made it a favorite. In the composition of its bouquet are united with the fragrance of the rose, the sweetness of the jasmine, and the refinement of the violet. Top notes: cassie, bergamot, sweet orange, neroli bigarade, petitgrain, linaloe. Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ionone, orris, violet, rose geranium, tuberose. Base notes: patchouli, musk, civet, tolu balsam, ambergris, sandalwood, benzoic acid, cedar, benzoin.

Stearns' "Lily of the Valley" was described as having "a bouquet which so truly reproduces the odor of the flower itself that connoisseurs cannot distinguish them." They claimed that their make of this had become extremely popular and highly recommended. Top notes: hydroxycitronellal, linalol, terpineol, nerol methyl acetophenone, neroli, bergamot. Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, orris, tuberose, acacia, orange blossom, ylang ylang. Base notes: tonka bean, bitter almond, vanilla, castoreum, musk, civet, sandalwood, benzoin, cardamom.

"Heliotrope." Described as being "exquisitely delicate" and a universal favorite. In addition to its popularity in America, Stearns exported large quantities of this perfume to South America, the buyers being Spanish speaking people who reportedly preferred their make of this odor to any in the world. Top notes: neroli, heliotropin, hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, methyl acetophenone, and benzyl acetate.

Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, rose, tuberose, ionone, ylang ylang, orris. Base notes: vanillin, Peru balsam, ambergris, musk, coumarin, terpineol, civet.

"Opoponax", with its "rich, fragrant lasting" odor, was particularly admired among "people of refinement" on account of its peculiar characteristics being "quiet and delicate" in opposition to loud smelling. Top notes: ionone, orange blossom, cassie, bergamot, violet. Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orris, cinnamon, tuberose, rose geraniol, opoponax. Base notes: musk, benzoin, opoponax, ambrette, tolu balsam, coumarin, patchouli.

"Jockey Club" hardly needs commenting on or recommending. It was too well known and too firmly an established favorite but there were different makes and some were better than others, so Stearns believed theirs to "be best of all." They said that "a trial is all that is necessary" to convince anyone of its high quality. Top notes: orange, lavender, bergamot, lemon, carnation, cassie, orange blossom, linalyl acetate. Middle notes: heliotropin, palmarosa, violet, nutmeg, myrtle, marjoram, iris, rose, jasmine, tuberose, rose geranium clove. Base notes: rosewood, incense, styrax, ambergris, civet, musk, Peru balsam, vanilla, tolu balsam, coumarin, vanillin, storax

"Frangipanni" This perfume, so a famous writer stated, was the invention of one of the earliest of the Roman nobles whose name it bears, and it has the merit of being the "most lasting perfume made." On account of its popularity, Stearns did not list it at double the price of other odors as some did but believed theirs to be equal to any others on the market. Top notes: neroli, cassie, bergamot, rose geranium, lavender, cinnamon, hyacinth geraniol, reseda geraniol, coriander. Middle notes: rhodium, iris, violet, rose, clove, jasmine, roses, saffron, tuberose, orange blossom, heliotropin, pimento, ginger. Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, musk, sandalwood, ambergris, Peru balsam, tolu balsam, vetiver, civet, coumarin, vanillin, styrax, cedar, ambrette, benzoic acid.

"Ylang Ylang", meaning flower of flowers, is an extremely beautiful flower which grows abundantly in the Philippine Islands, in which place its precious otto is distilled and sent abroad. Its odor was described as being "peculiarly delightful and beyond imitation." The notes would have been as follows:Top notes: bergamot, neroli, sweet orange, ylang ylang, methyl isoeugenol, cassie. Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, orris, orange blossom.. Base notes: musk, civet, coumarin, vanillin, tolu balsam 

"Stephanotis" was said to be an odor extremely popular in England and "amongst people of good taste" is a favorite in America as well. Stearns would have had a bouquet composed of Top notes: cassie, neroli, wild ginger, lemon, linalyl acetate. Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, rose, orris, ylang ylang. Base notes: musk, tonka bean, benzoin.

Stearns claimed that their"Violet," owing to the extremely high price of the flowers which had prevailed for many years, had been difficult to get good and substitutes and imitations of it had flooded the market. Their "English Violet" was described as being "pure, true to name and unexcelled" by any other made. The perfume would have ingredients of Top notes: verbena, methyl heptin carbonate, cassie, almond, geranium, violet, bergamot, methyl ionone. Middle notes: farnesol, jasmine, orris root, rose, heliotropin, tuberose. Base notes: benzyl acetate, vanillin, tolu balsam, musk, ambrette, santalol, storax.