Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was a woodsy, mossy fragrance for men composed of sixty eight individual ingredients, many of them derived from the African continent: Ethiopia, Algeria, Morocco, and the Malagasy and Somali Republics. The cologne was advertised as having "staying power that will last 6 to 8 hours because it has a high oil base." I do not have the official notes on this fragrance, but was happy to review this to see what I could find out.
My fragrantica friend and fellow New Jerseyan Gary (cytherian) generously sent me a sample from his own bottle. I applied a few drops to my skin on the back of my hand and the first impression that I get is "Wow! This stuff smells awesome! So sexy and earthy."
- Top notes: mandarin, eucalyptus, juniper, aldehydes, coriander, bergamot, green accord, galbanum, petitgrain, lemon, cardamom, pimento
- Middle notes: tuberose, karo karoundé, carnation, ylang ylang, bay leaf, cistus, tagetes, rose, jasmine, geranium, lavender, myrrh, orris, opoponax, clary sage, labdanum, clove, amyris, heliotrope
- Base notes: costus, olibanum, hay absolute, aloeswood, cade, cypriol, copaiba balsam, styrax, guaiac, patchouli, castoreum, ambrette, myrrh, opoponax, vanilla, ambergris, oakmoss, resins, vetiver, Mysore sandalwood, cedar, Ethiopian civet, benzoin, Peru balsam, tonka bean, leather, musk (Iso E Super, mahogany, rosewood, Tolu balsam
Scent Profile:
Woto opens with an invigorating burst of brightness. The first inhale captures the tangy sweetness of mandarin, its zesty flesh paired with a hint of tart rind. The eucalyptus adds a cooling, camphoraceous edge, like a crisp breeze brushing through a forest. Juniper introduces a fresh, resinous green note, slightly gin-like, evoking the sense of walking among pine-studded landscapes.
As the scent evolves, the heart notes reveal a lush, floral opulence. The creamy, narcotic sweetness of tuberose intertwines with the exotic floralcy of karo karoundé, a rare African flower exuding a rich, honeyed aroma. The spicy, clove-like nuance of carnation adds warmth, while the tropical sensuality of ylang ylang unfolds with buttery richness. Bay leaf offers a green, aromatic edge, balancing the floral intensity with herbal sharpness.
The base of Woto anchors the fragrance with an earthy, primal richness. Costus introduces an animalic, slightly leathery warmth, while the sacred, resinous quality of olibanum (frankincense) enhances the mystical allure. Hay absolute brings a dry, slightly sweet, grassy note, conjuring images of sun-dried fields. Aloeswood and cade contribute a dark, smoky woodiness, while cypriol adds a nuanced, earthy depth. Copaiba balsam and styrax offer warm, resinous sweetness, underscoring the composition's richness. The smoky, tar-like notes of guaiac wood intermingle with the earthy, camphoraceous scent of patchouli, creating a foundation of complexity.
Animalic accents emerge with the muskiness of castoreum and the rich, almost fruity warmth of ambrette seeds. The resinous, balsamic facets of myrrh and opoponax reappear, blending seamlessly with the creamy sweetness of vanilla and the oceanic, slightly salty aroma of ambergris. Oakmoss introduces a green, mossy earthiness, while resins like benzoin and Peru balsam add a deep, caramel-like sweetness.
Bottles:
The African influence of Woto extended beyond its scent to its visual presentation, creating a cohesive and culturally inspired experience. The bottle design, crafted by Richard Kline, the secretary and in-house designer of Deviline, Inc., was a thoughtful homage to African artistry. After extensive study of African sculpture, Kline fashioned the bottle with a clear, modern aesthetic that maintained a connection to traditional forms. Topped with a maple wood cap, the design evoked the intricate craftsmanship of Kuba wood carvings, known for their geometric patterns and symbolic meaning. The tactile warmth of the wooden cap added a layer of authenticity, grounding the fragrance in its African narrative.
The packaging further enhanced this thematic connection. The box featured a bold, abstract floral pattern in black, brown, and white, a design inspired by native Congolese artistry and derived from an ancient wall hanging. The motif reflected the geometric and rhythmic visual language often found in Congolese art, marrying tradition with modernity in an accessible, fashionable way. This packaging wasn't merely functional; it was part of the product's identity, aligning with a concept explained by Deviline's press writer, Bridget Paolucci, that Woto toiletries should serve as "fashion accessories rather than an after-thought." The aesthetic resonated with men’s fashion trends of the time, which embraced bold, earthy designs and cultural motifs.
A 1977 advertisement reinforced this concept, emphasizing that Woto cologne and aftershave reflected the motifs prevalent in men’s fashion. The ad noted that ties, shirts, scarves, and even pants and jackets complemented the Woto package’s authentic design. Martin Scherer, president and founder of Deviline, Inc., elaborated on this strategy, explaining that the Woto product line was designed to integrate seamlessly with the interior aesthetics of men's stores and boutiques. Scherer highlighted the rich, leathery browns of the packaging, suggesting that these tones aligned with the decorative, sophisticated environments where fashion-conscious men shopped.
Scherer was careful to clarify that Woto was not exclusively targeted at the African-oriented Black community. Instead, the brand sought to appeal to all fashion-conscious men, tapping into the broader zeitgeist of the late 1960s and 1970s, when African-inspired designs gained popularity across racial and cultural lines. Furthermore, Scherer acknowledged the significant role of women as purchasers, noting their influence in selecting gifts for the men in their lives. This strategic positioning allowed Woto to bridge cultural homage and universal appeal, ensuring the fragrance resonated across demographics while remaining rooted in its thematic inspiration.
Woto was launched as a premium line, positioning itself as a luxurious addition to the men’s grooming market of the late 1960s. Its pricing reflected this exclusivity: a 4-ounce bottle of cologne retailed for $8.50, while the aftershave was priced at $5.50. These prices, considered steep at the time, reinforced Woto’s status as an aspirational product aimed at fashion-conscious consumers who valued sophistication and quality. This premium positioning was underscored by the brand's retail strategy. Woto was not distributed to drugstores or discount outlets, instead being reserved for upscale men’s shops and department stores, where it could align with a clientele seeking refined and curated selections.
To ensure a successful launch, Deviline, Inc. employed demonstration assistants to introduce the line to the public, offering an experiential element that highlighted Woto’s distinctive qualities. These in-store representatives not only showcased the fragrance but also educated potential buyers on its luxurious African-inspired design and rich, woodsy aroma, helping to solidify its image as a high-end product.
The initial offerings of cologne and aftershave were only the beginning of what was envisioned as a comprehensive toiletry line. Plans were quickly set in motion to expand the range with complementary products that continued the African-inspired theme. Among the proposed additions were an "all-purpose lotion," a richly scented soap, Woto-Musk Cologne, a hair conditioner, personal deodorant, and a moisturizing skin cream. A gift set, elegantly presented in a wooden box, was also planned, likely aimed at the holiday market or as a thoughtful purchase for special occasions.
This cohesive approach ensured that Woto was more than just a fragrance; it was a lifestyle brand. Each product carried forward the design ethos that distinguished the original cologne and aftershave, maintaining a strong brand identity rooted in the African aesthetic while appealing to the sophisticated tastes of its target market. Through this strategy, Woto aimed to position itself as an essential part of a modern, stylish man's grooming routine.
When Woto launched in 1968, its pricing positioned it as a premium product, and inflation-adjusted calculations highlight just how exclusive the line was. Using 2024's buying power, the original $8.50 price for a 4-ounce bottle of cologne translates to approximately $78.64, while the $5.50 aftershave would be the equivalent of $50.89. This level of pricing underscores Woto's intended market—sophisticated, style-conscious individuals willing to invest in high-quality grooming products.
In the late 1960s, these prices would have placed Woto at the upper echelon of men's grooming lines, accessible only to those who prioritized luxury and exclusivity in their personal care routines. Unlike mass-market products available in drugstores or discount outlets, Woto’s deliberate placement in department stores and men’s boutiques further amplified its prestige, making it a sought-after item that communicated refinement and modernity.
This pricing strategy not only reflected the brand’s commitment to quality but also aligned with its positioning as a lifestyle accessory. The fact that Deviline, Inc. envisioned Woto as part of a comprehensive range of upscale toiletries reinforced its image as a luxury brand—a sentiment still evident when considering its inflation-adjusted value today.
By 1979, Woto had expanded its product line and adjusted its pricing to reflect ongoing trends in the market while maintaining its reputation as a premium brand. The 4-ounce Woto cologne and the Woto-Musk Cologne both retailed for $12.00, the aftershave was priced at $8.50, and the Woto soap on a rope was available for $6.00. For gift-givers, a set containing the cologne and aftershave was offered at $19.00, showcasing the brand's continued effort to appeal to a stylish and discerning clientele.
Around 1981, the line expanded further with the introduction of Woto Sandalwood, bringing the total number of available scents to four. Advertisements from that year confirm the inclusion of Musk and Sandalwood, but the identities of the remaining two scents remain unclear. Based on Woto's fragrance profile, Patchouli and Oakmoss seem likely candidates, as these notes were foundational to its distinctive woodsy, mossy identity.
However, signs of Woto’s decline in market dominance began to emerge by the early 1980s. By 1981, some Woto products were being sold at significant discounts, as much as half their original retail prices. This downward trend continued into 1983, when bottles of Woto cologne were being given away as promotional items with purchases, such as pajamas. These changes suggest that while Woto had enjoyed early success and a premium status, shifting consumer preferences or oversaturation in the market may have caused the brand to lose some of its cachet.
The introduction of Sandalwood and the variety of product offerings indicate a concerted effort to revitalize interest in the line, but the steep discounts and giveaways imply that the brand struggled to maintain its former prestige in an increasingly competitive market.
By 1979, Woto had solidified its place in the market as a premium men's fragrance line, with pricing reflecting its high-end positioning. The 4-ounce Woto cologne and Woto-Musk Cologne were both priced at $12.00, which equates to approximately $55.43 in 2024 dollars when adjusted for inflation. The aftershave retailed for $8.50, translating to $39.26 today, while the Woto soap on a rope was available for $6.00, or $27.72 in contemporary terms. For those seeking gift options, a set containing the cologne and aftershave was priced at $19.00, equivalent to about $87.77 in today's market.
These adjusted figures highlight how Woto's products were aimed at a fashion-conscious clientele who valued luxury grooming items and were willing to pay a premium for them. The relatively high cost of Woto products reinforced their status as aspirational items that reflected sophistication and style. The pricing structure also underscores the brand's commitment to aligning with boutique and department store settings, distancing itself from mass-market retail channels like drugstores or discount outlets.
The inclusion of inflation-adjusted values provides a modern perspective on Woto's pricing strategy and its appeal to a consumer base that sought quality and exclusivity in personal care products. Even as the brand expanded its product offerings, its premium pricing remained a cornerstone of its identity, reflecting the cultural and economic aspirations of its target audience.
The fragrance line Woto, introduced by Deviline, Inc., drew inspiration from African mythology and design, captivating the market with its unique blend of exotic oils and bold presentation. Advertised as "seducer of women" in Harper’s Bazaar (1969), the cologne was named after the African Love God, a figure whose legend was often described as "too sensual to be told." The scent's composition, a carefully curated mix of 68 fragrant oils sourced from far-flung and exotic locales, underscored its air of mystery and allure. The fragrance retailed at luxury outlets such as Henri Bendel, emphasizing its upscale market positioning.
Essence (1970) highlighted Woto’s manly, refreshing appeal, ideal as both a cologne and aftershave. Packaged in a distinctive African-inspired glass decanter capped with maple wood and wrapped in a bold Congolese patterned box, the line embodied the richness of African artistry. By blending fragrance and design, Woto became more than a personal care product—it was a statement piece and a nod to cultural heritage.
The scent was consistently described as exotic, deep, and erotic in publications like Cue (1976, 1977), where it was praised for its throbbing, distinctive aroma and imaginative packaging. The line expanded to include a Musk Cologne, which retailed at $10 for 4 ounces in 1976, further enhancing its reputation for bold and enticing fragrances. By 1979, the original cologne, musk cologne, and aftershave were accompanied by a soap on a rope and gift sets, continuing to honor the African theme in design and formulation.
Despite its luxurious aura, the pricing over time reflected changing market dynamics. Initially retailing for $8.50 in 1969, equivalent to $78.64 in 2024 dollars, Woto was considered a premium product. By 1975, its gift sets and individual products were offered at more modest prices, signaling broader accessibility. However, the mystique of Woto as a fragrance "named after a tribal love god" and its evocative marketing ensured its legacy as a bold, culturally rich offering in men’s grooming.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Launched in 1968, Woto Cologne by Deviline, Inc. made an immediate impact with its exotic appeal and African-inspired design. Named after the African God of Love, Woto's fragrance combined 68 distinct ingredients sourced from across the African continent, creating a rich, woodsy, and mossy profile that appealed to men seeking something unique in their grooming rituals. The perfume was marketed as a "seducer of women," capitalizing on the allure of its namesake and the mystique of African mythology. Its presentation, featuring a maple wood-capped glass bottle and a striking Congolese-inspired box, conveyed an air of luxury and sophistication that set it apart from more mainstream fragrances of the time. Woto was aimed at a fashionable, affluent market, often sold in upscale department stores and specialty boutiques.
The packaging design and advertising for Woto emphasized its bold, sensual appeal, drawing attention to its cultural and mythological roots. With its connection to the African Love God and an intricate blend of exotic oils, Woto struck a chord with consumers in the late 1960s and early 1970s, a time when cultural exploration and interest in African art and fashion were on the rise, driven in part by the broader civil rights movement and the Black Power movement. Advertisements in major publications like Harper's Bazaar and Essence further cultivated Woto’s image as a daring and erotic fragrance, available at prestigious retail locations like Henri Bendel.
Despite its early success, Woto began to lose traction in the early 1980s. By 1983, the fragrance had been quietly discontinued. Its pricing, initially positioned as a high-end product, had softened considerably by the late 1970s, with products often being sold at discounted prices and even given away with purchases like pajamas. Although it no longer commanded the same level of attention as when it was first introduced, Woto's legacy as one of the first men’s fragrances to embrace a truly cultural theme remains an interesting chapter in fragrance history. Its daring combination of scents, evocative marketing, and distinct packaging left an impression on the fragrance world, even though its time on the shelves was relatively short-lived.
I recently found a boxed Woto-On-A-Rope....
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