Thursday, March 27, 2014

Mori and Valmy Perfumes

An importing company known as Parfums Francais, Inc of New York was in the business of importing French perfumery essences and blending them domestically in the United States to lower production costs. The company purchased surplus crystal perfume bottles from Baccarat, that I assume were no longer going to be produced. Parfums Francais most likely bought them at a very low wholesale price.

Parfums Francais had various French perfumery concerns under their belt: Mori, Valmy, Parfums d'Anjou, Parfums de Choisy and Parfums Odeon. All five perfume company's logos were designed identically.

Mori, Paris was first established in 1908 in Paris France and may have been affiliated to Fontanis. Mori's operations closed in 1931. I am wondering if they were either absorbed by another company named Valmy or if the company name was changed to Valmy around 1933, as some of Valmy's perfumes had the same names as Mori such as Pour Toi, Viens, L'Heure de Minuit.

Because these perfumery concerns were lumped under one parent brand, many of the perfume names are the same as well as the bottles. 
 

Valmy, Odeon & D'Anjou shared two perfume names:
  • Viens
  • L'Heure de Minuit

Mori & D'Anjou shared a two perfume names:
  • Reve d'Amour
  • Toi et Moi 


Many of Mori's, Odeon's, d'Anjou's, and Valmy's perfumes were housed in Baccarat crystal flacons.

Mori reused a Julien Viard bottle for their fragrance Viens. The cylindrical bottle featured dancing figures around its middle and was originally used by Isabey in 1924 for their perfume La Route d'Emeraude.




The perfume company Maudy shared a bottle design with Mori for their perfume Idylle which was made up of opaque white Baccarat crystal and trimmed in thick gold enamel. Maudy first used it in 1928.


Maudy and Fontanis used a Baccarat flacon, that was later used by Mori for their perfume Follie.

Both Valmy and Mori repurposed the magnificent enameled crystal flacon originally used by Parfums Edouardo for their fragrance Egyptian Alabastron in 1927.




Mori borrowed the Baccarat bottle used by Madhva in the 1920s.




Choisy reused one of Maudy's gilded arch bottles for their perfume Reviens. Maudy used it to house the California and Muguet perfumes in the 1920s. The bottle holds 8 oz parfum.

Maudy also shared a bottle design with one of Odeon's perfumes. 

Mori's Oui ou Non? and Choisy's Pour la Danse came in a 2 oz bottle by Baccarat. Also used by Parfums Miga in 1932 for their Pois de Senteur. Baccarat created this desirable perfume bottle of opaque pink crystal featuring a molded and textured recessed surface design of a stylized floral motif. A rectangular pink glass stopper completes the presentation. The gilded foil paper label is affixed along the side of the bottle. The bottle stands 4" tall.  

Another stunning bottle was used by Choisy for their perfume Pour le Danse. It was originally used in 1926 by Fontanis for their perfume Sourire de France. It is a gorgeous marbleized opaque bubblegum pink rectangular crystal bottle trimmed with silver overlay enamel. The cap has been changed to a less expensive version for the Choisy perfume. The base has the Baccarat acid mark. The bottle stands 3.25" tall x 1" wide x 3.5" long. The bottle holds 2 oz of parfum and was housed in a velvet presentation box.



The Baccarat flacon below was used by Odeon for their perfume Reviens in 1933. It was originally used by Godet for their fragrance Envoi de Fleurs.

Mori also reused one of Fontanis' Baccarat bottles first used in 1921.


Mori used d'Hortys' hand enameled Baccarat bottle first used in 1917.




Mori's perfume Romance was also in a Baccarat bottle, this time in the shape of a fountain with a playful dolphin as the stopper. This exquisite bottle was originally used by Alphonse Gravier for their perfume La Cascade in 1926.

The perfume Premiere Fleurs was presented in a bottle by Cristalleries de Nancy.

Mori's perfume was first used by Fontanis for their perfume Sous la Charmille in 1925.

Mori used another Baccarat bottle first used in 1921 by Fontanis for their Jasmin perfume.



Valmy's Nuit Follies was contained in a crown shaped bottle first used by Marcel Guerlain for his perfume Le Roy Veult, but with a different stopper shape.





Parfum d'Anjou's Reve d'Amour was housed in a 5 ounce bottle by Rene Lalique known as the "Flowering Branches" flacon. It also held Choisy's perfume Au Paradis.




 

The perfumes of Mori:

  • 1908 Jasmin
  • 1917 Les Fleurs
  • 1923 Amour
  • 1924 Gardenia
  • 1929 America
  • 1930 Fontanis
  • 1931 Folle
  • 1931 Parfum de Romance (this is the re-branded fragrance Fontanis)
  • 1931 Pour Amour
  • 1931 Toi et Moi
  • 1931 Viens
  • 1931 Oui ou Non?
  • 1932 Reve d'Amour
  • 1932 L'Heure de Minuit
  • 1932 Hellade
  • 1933 Acacia
  • 1933 Oeillet
  • 1933 Baiser Brulant
  • 1933 Toujours a Toi
  • 1933 Desiree
  • 1933 Nuits de Follies
  • 1933 Rose












































The perfumes of Valmy:

  • 1933 Pour Toi
  • 1933 Viens
  • 1933 L'Heure de Minuit








Parfums d'Anjou:

  • 1930 Reve d'Amour
  • 1933 Nuits Folles
  • 1933 Pour la Danse
  • 1933 Paradis
  • 1935 Viens
  • 1935 Toi et Moi
  • 1935 L'Heure de Minuit




Odeon:

Parfums Odeon was established in Paris in 1902; main production in the 1920’s-1960s. usually you will find their perfumes in miniature sizes boxed in sets of six or more as Parfums of Paris or similarly named souvenir sets from France.
  • 1933 Jadis
  • 1933 Folle
  • 1933 Reviens
  • 1933 Pour Amour
  • 1933 Paradis
  • 1933 Golden Bouquet
  • 1933 L'Heure de Minuit
  • 1933 Baiser Brulant
  • 1933 Lilac
  • 1933 Gardenia
  • 1933 Violette
  • 1933 Sweet Pea
  • 1933 Chypre
  • 1933 Toi et Moi
  • 1933 No. X
  • 1933 Desiree
  • Nonchalance
  • Odeon Bouquet
  • Ribou
  • Nemours
  • Redon
  • Loire
  • Minuit
  • Tois
  • Thilly
  • Royan
  • Vole
  • Anet











Parfums de Choisy:


Parfums de Choisy of Paris, not to be confused with glassmakers Choisy le Roy

The perfumes of Choisy:

  • 1932 Les Premieres Fleurs
  • 1933 Reviens
  • 1933 Au Paradis
  • 1933 Pour la Danse
  • 1935 Gardenia
  • 1935 Jasmin
  • 1935 Lilas





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