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Sunday, July 20, 2014

Cadolle Freres

Cadolle Freres of Paris France, established in 1889 as a haute couture corset shop in Buenos Aires by Herminie Cadolle, opened Paris shop in 1910 as a family business with fashionable clientele at 14 rue Cambon.



The company was responsible for introducing and patenting the first brassiere back in 1889 at the Paris Exposition, the corselet-gorge, and an expression she in which she later referred to as Amour en Cage, or Caged Love, her term for a woman’s bust encased by the brassiere. This French expression used since around 1910 when a play of the same name was successfully gracing the French stages.

Her grand daughter Marguerite launched a range of fragrances in 1926 as part of their fashion lines. It was that famous play L’Amour en Cage which also inspired Cadolle to name her perfume in 1926, aptly named Amour en Cage. It was first given only to selected clients and became the must have accessory for anyone who purchased Cadolle’s creations. The firm of Marboef et Cie produced the papers, boxes and labels for this luxurious perfume presentation.

Female tennis star and Wimbledon champion Suzanne Lenglen inspired three of Cadolle Freres perfumes, all branded under the Suzanne Lenglen name, Suzanne Lenglen Pour Le SportSuzanne Lenglen Apres le Tennis and Suzanne Lenglen Pour Le Soir, all of which debuted in 1926. Cadolle reportedly paid Lenglen "$5,000 for the privilege of making her perfumes for her", according to a 1926 newspaper article. Various sizes of the Pour le Soir perfume retailed for $7.50 to $22.50 in 1926.


Chicago Tribune, 1927:
"New! Sports Perfumes. The swift refreshment and vigor of your favorite sports - carried on the breath of the two exquisite new perfumes marked "Suzanne Lenglen"! The one is "Pour le Sport," the other, "Apres le Tennis." And there is a third called "Pour le Soir." All are in smart square bottles - and as smartly boxed."

More fragrances were to follow including Bois Sauvage, which sounds like it would have been a woody fragrance for women and the beloved Cadolle No. 9.

Cadolle No. 9 was created as an answer to Chanel’s famous No. 5 perfume. In the 1989, this exquisite oriental perfume was reformulated with modern ingredients and relaunched. The result was a powdery soft oriental fragrance that was available in both eau de parfum and eau de toilette forms. Cadolle No. 9 was still available in selected retailers in Europe up until around 2008.

The notes of Cadolle No. 9 described by Nigel Groom are:
  • Top: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily, carnation, citrus
  • Heart: red cedar, sandalwood, rosewood
  • Base: benzoin, sandalwood, cedar, patchouli

The Hartford Courant, 1927:
"Mme. Cadolle has just opened a perfume department with several new perfumes, one of which has been taken over by a large New York house. This is "Pour le Sport," a clear fresh scent especially created for sportswear,"Pour le Soir" to wear in the evening, "Bois Sauvage" and "No. 9"."

Just after the second World War, Cadolle No. 9’s formula was sold to Paquin, creator of the famous 9 X 9 perfume. Shortly after, L’Oreal purchased Paquin, and Cadolle No. 9 was then purchased again by their namesake firm, Poupie Cadolle, who incorporated Cadolle Parfums in 1986. The firm is now known as the House of Cadolle, now run by Herminie Cadolle’s great-great-great granddaughter. www.cadolle.com. Cadolle No. 9 was still available in selected retailers in Europe up until around 2008.



The perfumes of Cadolle:

  • 1926 Suzanne Lenglen
  • 1926 Amour en Cage
  • 1926 Le No. 9
  • 1926 Suzanne Lenglen Apres le Tennis
  • 1926 Suzanne Lenglen Pour Le Soir
  • 1926 Suzanne Lenglen Pour Le Sport
  • 1927 Le Bois Sauvage
  • 1927 Reve d'Infante
  • 1929 Magicia
  • 1929 Magnolia
  • 1930 Cadollia
  • 1930 Bien Etre
  • 1930 Gardenia
  • 1933 Jasmin
  • 1933 Alycia
  • 1958 Cadolle
  • 1989 Cadolle No. 9 (reformulation and relaunch)





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