Strategy by Mary Chess c1942

Launched in 1942, "Strategy" by Mary Chess was aptly named during a time when the word carried immense significance. The term "strategy" stems from the Greek word strategia, meaning "generalship" or "the art of war." During World War II, this concept was deeply ingrained in the minds of Americans. On the home front, women, in particular, faced new responsibilities as they managed households, supported war efforts, and took on roles traditionally held by men. Choosing the name "Strategy" for a perfume during this pivotal time evokes an image of women as tacticians in their daily lives—organizing, planning, and executing their own personal battles with grace and strength. The fragrance was designed to embody this spirit of determination and purposeful action.

The word "strategy" conjures images of precision, calculated moves, and a keen sense of purpose. Emotions tied to the word are often associated with confidence, control, and power. These are not just wartime sentiments but also qualities that resonated with women looking to assert themselves in a world undergoing seismic shifts. "Strategy" as a fragrance, then, would be interpreted as more than just a scent; it was a statement. A fragrance that communicated that its wearer was not just reactive but proactive, not just delicate but strong.

As a sparkling aldehydic, spicy floral chypre, the scent of "Strategy" unfolds with a unique complexity, reflecting its name. Aldehydes—sharp and effervescent—immediately announce themselves with a burst of freshness, much like the strategic brilliance of a well-planned move. This sparkling introduction symbolizes clarity and brilliance, echoing the sharp intellect and foresight associated with strategic thinking. The floral bouquet, led by delicate blooms, softens the initial impact while retaining a sense of freshness. Pungent spices layered throughout the fragrance add a sense of dynamism and warmth, capturing the tension and energy of calculated decisions. The green, earthy notes of mosses and woods ground the composition, while the undertones of vetiver provide a deep, smoky layer—reminiscent of the resilience and endurance required in both wartime and peacetime strategies.

For women in the early 1940s, a perfume named "Strategy" would have resonated on multiple levels. It was a time when women were asked to step into new roles, contributing to both war efforts and domestic life in ways that were unprecedented. This perfume symbolized their agency and control over their own lives, offering a sense of empowerment through its bold, complex aroma. Women were not passive participants in society—they were strategists, navigating the challenges of wartime, managing households, entering the workforce, and asserting their place in a rapidly changing world.

1942 was a year marked by uncertainty, but also by action. As the U.S. had entered the war just the year before, women were becoming more active in the workforce, filling the gaps left by men who had gone to fight. Many women took on roles in factories, the military, and administrative positions, all while maintaining traditional domestic duties. In this context, "Strategy" symbolized their evolving role in society—assertive, purposeful, and adaptive. It was a fragrance that mirrored the complexity of their lives, offering a sense of elegance and control in an era defined by hard choices and new possibilities.

In essence, "Strategy" by Mary Chess was not just a perfume; it was a reflection of its time. For American women in the 1940s, it symbolized their strength, resilience, and the art of navigating an uncertain world with both grace and determination. It was a fragrance of empowerment, much like the strategic moves they made each day in the face of adversity.

Fragrance Composition:

 

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, galbanum, violet leaf, neroli
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, lavender, thyme, rosemary
• Base notes: oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, amber, labdanum, civet, musk 

Scent Profile:

As I take in the first breath of "Strategy," the aldehydes greet me with their unmistakable sharpness. The top notes feel like the crisp sparkle of a clean, starched fabric brushing against my skin, vibrant and electric. They are piercing and effervescent, like the fizz of champagne—a high-pitched brightness that immediately awakens the senses. 

Alongside, the citrusy burst of bergamot and lemon sweeps through the air, offering a zesty, almost tangy freshness. The sweet, floral neroli tempers these notes, softening their sharpness with a sunny, slightly honeyed quality, while galbanum lends an earthy, green bite—like walking through a dense, aromatic forest after the rain. The cool, dewy scent of violet leaf wraps around this sparkling introduction, grounding the aldehydes in something tender and organic.

As the heart of the fragrance emerges, the perfume blooms into a rich bouquet of florals, accented with spice. Rose and jasmine dominate at first, offering their timeless, feminine sweetness. The rose feels opulent, velvety, and deep, while jasmine adds a touch of creamy richness, sensual and heady. Then comes the luminous beauty of lily of the valley—its gentle, fresh innocence adding a dewy green clarity to the more indulgent florals. 

Ylang-ylang appears with its exotic, slightly banana-like creaminess, evoking warmth and sweetness without overpowering. The florals are beautifully intertwined with an unexpected and bold spiciness. A dusting of clove, cinnamon, and nutmeg emerges, adding a surprising yet delightful layer of warmth and depth—spicy yet comforting, as if you're walking into a warm kitchen filled with the scent of freshly baked spices. The fragrant herbs—lavender, thyme, and rosemary—dance in the background, adding an aromatic sharpness, a cool herbal freshness that cuts through the floral richness and creates an intriguing tension.

As the fragrance settles into its base, it reveals its chypre heart, grounding the composition with deep, earthy, and animalic notes. Oakmoss is the star here, with its mossy, slightly damp, and forest-like smell, conjuring images of cool earth beneath your feet. The rich cedarwood and creamy, warm sandalwood add a woody smoothness, giving the scent structure and a sense of calm strength. 

Patchouli adds a smoky, resinous undertone, while vetiver lends a dry, grassy sharpness—earthy and slightly bitter, like sun-dried hay. The amber and labdanum bring warmth and sweetness, with their resinous, almost honeyed quality adding a glowing warmth to the deeper base notes. Animalic notes of civet and musk creep in, adding a sensual, slightly feral edge, rounding out the composition with a soft, skin-like warmth that lingers on the skin.

Each note of "Strategy" unfurls with purpose, blending aldehydic sharpness, floral richness, herbal freshness, and a chypre's earthy, grounding depth. The scent tells a story of contrasts—bright yet dark, floral yet spicy, refined yet wild—a perfect reflection of its namesake, where strategy in scent is like crafting the perfect balance between power and elegance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1945, Silent Night by Countess Maritza captured the elegance and sentimentality of its time. Its floral oriental composition, said to include 52 different flowers, evoked a sense of timeless beauty and nostalgia. Despite its launch during the tail end of World War II, a time of rationing and recovery, Silent Night found its place in the hearts of women seeking luxury and escapism. While the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, the fragrance retained its allure for decades, with records showing it was still being sold as late as 1979. This enduring presence suggests that Silent Night resonated with multiple generations, offering a link to a bygone era of glamour and refinement. Its longevity speaks to the quality of its composition and the emotional connection it fostered, even as tastes and trends in perfumery evolved over the years.