Byzance by Grenoville c1926

 Byzance by Grenoville, originally introduced in 1926 under the name Nikys, underwent a swift rebranding to Byzance for reasons that remain speculative. It is possible that the initial name, Nikys, conflicted with an existing trademark held by a rival perfumer. The word Nikys likely derives from Greek origins, connected to Nike, the goddess of victory, and would be pronounced NEE-kees. This name might have conveyed notions of triumph and grace, aligning with the elegant and aspirational identity often associated with fine perfumery. Despite its evocative qualities, Grenoville pivoted to Byzance, a name that arguably carried even greater allure and cultural weight.

The name Byzance is the French term for Byzantium, the ancient Greek city that later became Constantinople, pronounced bee-ZAHNSS in French. The choice of this name reflects a deliberate attempt to evoke the grandeur, mystique, and opulence of the Byzantine Empire. To contemporary audiences, Byzance conjured images of gilded mosaics, intricate architectural details, and a romanticized vision of the East—a world imbued with luxury, exoticism, and sensuality. For women in the 1920s, this name would have represented an alluring escape, a connection to a storied and glamorous past that resonated deeply with the period’s fascination with Orientalism and Art Deco aesthetics. The exotic and historical connotations of Byzance imbued the fragrance with an air of sophistication and intrigue.

Byzance is classified as a white floral fragrance and was described in period advertisements as "a splendid gardenia of the sharp, tuberose kind." This characterization highlights its rich and heady floral profile, which balanced the lush creaminess of gardenia with the sharper, intoxicating facets of tuberose. Such a composition would have been striking and memorable, enveloping the wearer in a bold and unmistakable floral aura. The olfactory interpretation of Byzance might reflect its name by conjuring sensory impressions of ornate gardens, resplendent with luminous white blossoms, embodying a timeless yet exotic elegance.

The perfume debuted during the Roaring Twenties, a period marked by innovation and daring in the world of perfumery. Groundbreaking scents like Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Guerlain’s Shalimar (1925) had shifted the landscape, popularizing complex aldehydic compositions and Oriental themes. While Byzance aligned with the era’s trend toward opulence and exoticism, its focus on the singular beauty of white florals distinguished it from the aldehydic or heavily ambery scents of its contemporaries. Its character as a bold, floral perfume would have appealed to women seeking a sophisticated yet striking statement, offering a modern interpretation of timeless floral elegance.

For Grenoville, Byzance became their best-selling fragrance, firmly establishing its place in the pantheon of iconic perfumes. Its success was followed by Casanova, another standout from the house. Together, these fragrances highlighted Grenoville’s ability to craft compelling narratives and olfactory experiences that resonated with the cultural and artistic sensibilities of their time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a white floral fragrance for women. In old advertisements, it was described as "a splendid gardenia of the sharp, tuberose kind."

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, heliotrope, lemongrass, methyl benzoate, methyl anthranilate, methyl salicylate, benzyl alcohol, and benzyl acetate
• Middle notes: gardenia, lily of the valley, French geranium, cassie, ylang ylang, phenylacetic aldehyde, linalol, tuberose, orris, rose, jasmine, orange blossom
• Base notes: rosewood, benzoin, sandalwood, tobacco, vanilla, tolu balsam, ambergris, civet, musk, storax

 

Scent Profile:

Byzance by Grenoville unfolds like an intricate tapestry, weaving together luminous top notes, a radiant floral heart, and a richly sensual base. Each ingredient contributes its unique essence to the overall composition, creating a fragrance that is at once captivating, mysterious, and unforgettable.

The top notes greet you with a burst of freshness and intrigue. Neroli offers a honeyed citrus brightness, delicate yet luminous, like sunlit orange blossoms. Bergamot adds a sparkling zest, its lively citrus tang underscored by subtle green bitterness. A whisper of heliotrope enters next, powdery and almond-like, infusing a soft, creamy sweetness that tempers the sharper citrus tones. Lemongrass cuts through with a bright, herbal crispness, sharp yet invigorating. As the natural ingredients dance, a suite of synthetics deepens the complexity: methyl benzoate lends a slightly sweet, fruity quality, reminiscent of ripe cherries, while methyl anthranilate introduces a smooth, floral grape-like nuance. Methyl salicylate adds a cool, almost minty sharpness, hinting at wintergreen, and benzyl alcohol and benzyl acetate offer a blend of fresh, slightly green florality with a hint of tropical fruit.

In the heart, the fragrance blooms into full floral opulence. Gardenia dominates, lush and creamy, exuding a heady, intoxicating sweetness with green undertones. Lily of the valley brings a dewy, delicate freshness, while French geranium contributes a vivid, slightly spicy floral sharpness. Cassie, a warm and powdery mimosa-like note, provides a golden honeyed accent. Ylang ylang unfolds with a rich, exotic warmth, its banana-like sweetness and faintly narcotic character weaving into the tapestry. Phenylacetic aldehyde enhances the floral medley with a sharp, honeyed edge. Linalol introduces a light, floral spiciness, tempering the richness of tuberose—lush, creamy, and undeniably sensual. Orris root adds a velvety, powdery softness, grounding the composition with its buttery, slightly woody elegance. The bouquet is rounded by the timeless trio of rose, jasmine, and orange blossom, each lending its own blend of freshness, sweetness, and sultry depth.

As the scent settles, the base notes emerge, anchoring the florals with a rich, warm foundation. Rosewood introduces a woody elegance, smooth and slightly spicy. Benzoin adds a balsamic sweetness, reminiscent of warm vanilla resin. Sandalwood enhances the creamy depth with its milky, slightly smoky softness. Tobacco brings a surprising twist—a dry, earthy sweetness that feels warm and nostalgic. Vanilla intensifies the sweetness with its comforting, gourmand richness. Tolu balsam and ambergris layer the scent with a resinous, golden warmth, while civet and musk add an animalic undertone, subtly provocative and sensual. Storax provides a final touch of balsamic depth, dark and slightly leathery, grounding the fragrance in a velvety embrace.

Byzance evolves as a sensory journey, each note painting an evocative picture. It begins with brightness and freshness, blossoms into an opulent floral heart, and ends with a warm, sensual, and slightly exotic trail. It feels timeless yet indulgent, a white floral fragrance that is as complex as it is beautiful, evoking the mystery and grandeur of its namesake.

 


The New Yorker, 1937:

"Grenoville: Byzance. The smartest girls love it and insist on calling it a gardenia. It’s more tuberose to us. And swell."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 45, 1939:

"GRENOVILLE Les Grands Parfums, Inc., presents the entire Grenoville line in new outstanding presentations, in various containers priced from $6 to $105. Byzance perfume, the most popular, is a subtle blend of the gardenia fragrance."

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Grenoville: Gardenia enthusiasts like the sharp tang of Byzance, now in modern bottles for both perfume (from $6) and cologne (from $1.50)."

The New Yorker, 1940:

"Grenoville: Byzance, a sharp gardenia perfume which perennially represents glamour to girls-about-town ; $6."

Bottles:

Art Deco Crystal Block Bottle:

The Art Deco crystal block flacon designed for Byzance by Grenoville is a stunning representation of 1920s sophistication and elegance. Created by the prestigious Baccarat crystal company, the bottle exemplifies the clean lines and geometric precision that define the Art Deco aesthetic. Molded as a stepped rectangle, the bottle's form is strikingly modern, with its symmetrical design evoking a sense of architectural grandeur. Each facet of the crystal reflects light beautifully, enhancing the visual appeal of the bottle and adding an air of luxurious refinement.

The matching crystal stopper echoes the stepped design of the bottle, creating a cohesive and harmonious look. Its precise craftsmanship not only complements the bottle’s structure but also serves as a functional and elegant seal for the precious perfume within. The Baccarat signature, engraved on the base of the bottle, attests to its authenticity and the unparalleled quality of its manufacture, a hallmark of this renowned French glassmaker.

The packaging further elevates the presentation of Byzance. The box, covered in gold paper, is a masterpiece in its own right. It features a stylized Art Deco rose motif, which adorns both the top and a frieze that wraps around the sides. This decorative detail ties the packaging to the era's love for bold yet elegant floral patterns, symbolizing beauty and timelessness. Inside, the box is lined with ivory silk satin, a luxurious material that enhances the sense of opulence and provides a soft, protective cradle for the perfume bottle. The bottle rests within a fitted compartment, also covered in gold paper, ensuring it is both securely housed and visually striking when revealed.

With approximate measurements of 3.25 inches in height, width, and depth, the bottle is perfectly proportioned, its compact yet substantial form making it a desirable object for display. The box, slightly larger at 4.75 inches high, 5.5 inches wide, and 6 inches deep, adds to the grandeur of the presentation, ensuring the perfume is as much a decorative piece as it is a functional product.

This Byzance flacon captures the glamour and elegance of the Art Deco period, combining the brilliance of Baccarat crystal with Grenoville's penchant for luxurious design. It stands as a testament to the artistry of its era, transforming the act of owning perfume into an experience of beauty, sophistication, and timeless allure.

Tabatiere Black Crystal Bottle:

The tabatiere, or snuff bottle, an arched black crystal bottle designed for Byzance by Grenoville is an evocative embodiment of mystery and luxury. Crafted by Verreries Brosse, this bottle is distinguished by its narrow but weighty form, exuding a sense of solidity and refinement. The opaque black glass, polished to a flawless finish, lends an air of intrigue and sophistication, a fitting complement to the perfume's enigmatic allure.

The bottle's arched top introduces a graceful curvature to its otherwise angular design, subtly softening the overall aesthetic while maintaining its bold presence. It is crowned with a striking black glass stopper, fashioned in a unique four-lobed, dome-like shape. This stopper not only seals the fragrance securely but also serves as a decorative highlight, adding dimension and a touch of sculptural artistry to the bottle.

The base of each bottle is molded with "Made in France," a mark of its high-quality craftsmanship and provenance. The varying sizes—ranging from 4 inches tall to 3.25 inches and 2.5 inches—offer versatility, making the bottle suitable for both personal use and as a collectible display item.

The bottle's presentation is equally captivating. Housed in an eight-sided box, it exemplifies meticulous attention to detail. The box is covered in luxurious gold metallic foiled paper, which catches the light and enhances its regal appearance. A large black silken tassel adorns the packaging, adding an element of drama and tactile elegance. This interplay of gold and black creates a visually striking contrast, reinforcing the opulent identity of Byzance.

Though now often found empty of its original perfume, the arched black crystal bottle remains a treasured artifact from a bygone era. Its design captures the spirit of Art Deco's geometric precision while imbuing it with a timeless sensuality, making it a fitting vessel for one of Grenoville's most iconic fragrances.

Frosted Crystal Bottles:

 The frosted glass bottles designed for Byzance by Grenoville are a sublime fusion of artistry and functionality, embodying the opulence and mystique of the fragrance they hold. Manufactured by Verreries Brosse, a renowned French glassmaker, these exquisite bottles are a testament to the enduring appeal of luxury craftsmanship. Available in three sizes—small (2.5 inches tall), medium (3.25 inches tall), and large (4 inches tall)—they were crafted to house the parfum in elegant proportions, perfect for personal indulgence or gifting.

The bottles were produced in both opaque black crystal and colorless crystal, each with a frosted and polished finish. The frosted effect enhances the tactile quality of the design while giving the bottles a soft, ethereal appearance. A Greek key motif is molded in relief across the surface, its intricate geometric pattern adding a timeless and classical aesthetic. This motif, a nod to the grandeur and sophistication of ancient Greece and Byzantium, underscores the luxurious and historical inspiration behind the Byzance name.

Topping the bottle is a practical yet elegant glass inner stopper, ensuring the fragrance remains perfectly sealed. An outer metal cap adds a touch of modernity and functionality while complementing the frosted glass with a gleaming contrast. This dual-layer closure system reflects a meticulous attention to detail, aligning with the high standards of French perfumery during the period.

Each bottle features a heavy, substantial feel, further emphasizing its quality and durability. The opaque black glass variant is particularly striking, its deep hue lending an air of mystery and sophistication. The design is completed with a gold foil label on the front, delicately marked with "Byzance Grenoville Paris," a statement of authenticity and prestige. On the base, the bottle is acid-stamped with "Made in France," a proud declaration of its origin and craftsmanship.

Presented in a satin-lined golden box, these bottles were as much a visual and tactile delight as they were a vessel for Byzance's penetrating fragrance. The packaging and bottle combined to create an irresistible allure, positioning the perfume as an expression of feminine power and allure—"woman when her most divine, dangerous self." These bottles, with their combination of classical motifs, modern design elements, and luxurious finishing touches, encapsulated the essence of Byzance, making them not only functional containers but enduring works of art.

 

 

 

Purse Bottle:

The Byzance miniature perfume bottle by Grenoville, designed for the handbag, is a masterpiece of compact elegance and utility. Standing at a petite 2.25 inches tall, this bottle is as functional as it is stylish, embodying the sophistication and attention to detail for which Grenoville was renowned. Its size and design were tailored to suit the modern woman of its era, offering a touch of luxury that could be carried discreetly and conveniently.

The bottle itself is crafted from opaque black glass, its surface adorned with a hobnail pattern of tiny, raised bumps. This textural detail not only adds visual interest but also provides a tactile element, ensuring the bottle feels secure and distinctive in hand. The deep black hue of the glass is both practical and symbolic, protecting the precious fragrance from light while evoking the mystery and opulence associated with the name Byzance.

Sealing the bottle is a black glass inner stopper, a thoughtful feature designed to preserve the integrity of the scent. Over this, a brass slip-over cap adds a polished finishing touch. The warm golden hue of the brass contrasts beautifully with the dark glass, creating a striking and elegant combination that speaks to the luxury of the piece.

On the front of the bottle, a silver foil paper label embossed with intricate floral motifs lends an additional layer of artistry. The label’s metallic sheen catches the light, drawing attention to its fine detailing while hinting at the floral heart of the Byzance fragrance. This decorative element ties the bottle’s design to the lush, opulent nature of the scent it contains.

The base of the bottle is molded with the words “GRENOVILLE - Made in France,” a mark of authenticity and a testament to its heritage. This inscription serves as a proud declaration of its French craftsmanship, a hallmark of quality that underscores the brand’s esteemed reputation in the world of perfumery.

Compact yet luxurious, the Byzance miniature bottle was designed to seamlessly integrate into a woman’s daily life, combining practicality with timeless elegance. It reflects both the aesthetic and functional considerations of its time, making it not only a vessel for perfume but a treasured accessory in its own right.

 

Cylindrical Bottle:

The "bouillotte" or "hot-water bottle" flacon used for Grenoville’s Byzance is a charming and practical design, versatile in its use across several Grenoville fragrances. The bottle’s straightforward cylindrical shape emphasizes functionality and simplicity, yet its details elevate it beyond mere utility. Crafted from clear glass, the design showcases the elegance of minimalism while providing a clear view of the fragrance within, a practical choice that hints at modern sensibilities.

A defining feature of this bottle is its distinctive cap—a heavy, cast white metal screw-top, shaped like a pinecone. This cap adds a sculptural element to the otherwise understated bottle, providing a tactile and visual point of interest. Depending on the version, the pinecone cap could be finished in a silvery or gilded tone, enhancing its decorative appeal and offering variations that catered to different tastes or occasions.

The base of the bottle bears the molded inscription “Grenoville, Paris, Made In France,” a hallmark of authenticity and a nod to the brand’s Parisian origins. This small but important detail reflects the meticulous craftsmanship and pride in French perfumery during the early to mid-20th century.

The presentation of the bouillotte flacon further underscores its refined simplicity. It was housed in a cylindrical cardboard box covered in metallic gold paper, offering a protective yet visually striking container. The gold covering lent the packaging a touch of luxury, ensuring that the bottle remained suitable as a gift or an elegant addition to a vanity table.

Available in a range of sizes, from petite 2-inch bottles to the more substantial 4.25-inch versions, the bouillotte flacon offered options for personal preferences, from travel-friendly sizes to larger bottles meant for daily use. This versatility, combined with its timeless design and functional elegance, makes the bouillotte bottle a lasting symbol of Grenoville’s commitment to both style and practicality.

Encrier Bottle:

The encrier or "inkwell" bottle, used for Byzance by Grenoville, stands as a testament to the brand's artistry in blending form and function. This squat, circular bottle features concentric circles on its surface, evoking a sense of harmonious symmetry and visual intrigue. The design, with its sturdy, compact profile, is a striking example of the sophisticated yet unpretentious elegance that characterized many perfume bottles of the era. The concentric circles not only serve as a decorative pattern but also add texture and depth, enhancing the tactile experience of the bottle.

Fitted with a gilded brass screw cap, the encrier bottle exudes a sense of luxury and refinement. The gilded cap contrasts beautifully against the smooth, polished surface of the bottle, offering a touch of opulence without overpowering the understated design. The cap is simple yet effective, serving its functional purpose while contributing to the overall aesthetic of the bottle.

The base of the bottle is embossed with the inscription “Grenoville Bottle Made in France BR2,” an important detail that verifies its origin and craftsmanship. This stamp not only underscores the quality of the bottle but also reinforces the French connection, a hallmark of Grenoville’s brand identity during this period.

The encrier bottle, measuring 3 inches tall and 2 inches in diameter, was housed in a luxurious presentation box crafted from ivory flocked velvet. The velvet lining, soft and plush, provided a fitting contrast to the bottle's solid, metallic elements, adding a layer of tactile and visual richness. The box was further accented with gilded brass, a subtle but effective nod to the opulence of the time and a perfect complement to the gilded cap of the bottle.

As for the perfume itself, in 1936, Grenoville highlighted the success of Byzance, which remained a signature fragrance for the house. The brand’s decision not to launch a new perfume that year was a reflection of the continuing popularity of Byzance and Casanova, both of which had become staples in the Grenoville collection. As part of their new marketing approach, Grenoville introduced an innovative circular case made of ivory composition, mounted in gilded metal, designed to present its perfumes in a manner that was as luxurious and unique as the fragrances themselves. This new packaging echoed the original design of the perfume bottles, showcasing the company's commitment to both innovation and tradition.

Reste Jeune, 1936:

"At Grenoville, no new perfume at the end of the year; but the success of Byzance, a concentrated and persistent perfume, as well as that of Casanova, are far from exhausted. Grenoville presents its range of perfumes in a new circular case in ivory composition, mounted in gilded metal, extremely luxurious and worthy of the original research of its bottles."

 

Dressmaker's Dummy Bottle:

The Byzance frosted glass perfume bottle by Grenoville stands as an elegant tribute to the art of both perfumery and design. Shaped like a dressmaker’s dummy, the bottle evokes the fashion-forward sensibilities of the 1930s, a time when fashion and fragrance were deeply intertwined. The form of the bottle is reminiscent of the iconic bottles used by other luxury perfume houses, such as the one created by Schiaparelli for her 1930s fragrance Shocking. This design choice subtly nods to the intersection of fashion and fragrance, aligning Grenoville’s Byzance with the haute couture culture of the era.

The frosted glass finish of the bottle lends it a soft, velvety appearance, giving it an air of refinement and sophistication. The frosted surface catches the light in a gentle way, softening the contours of the bottle and creating an almost ethereal effect. The gilded foil label on the front is an exquisite detail, adding an element of luxury and drawing the eye to the bottle. The label, embossed with delicate motifs, enhances the bottle’s vintage charm and serves as a testament to the craftsmanship of the era.

The stopper, made of frosted glass, mirrors the texture of the bottle, creating a cohesive and harmonious look. Its simple, understated design allows the beauty of the bottle to take center stage while providing a practical and functional closure for the perfume. The base of the bottle is embossed with the words “Grenoville France,” confirming its origin and craftsmanship, and adding a subtle touch of authenticity and prestige to the piece.

Standing approximately 3 1/3 inches tall and 1 3/4 inches wide, this perfume bottle is perfectly proportioned, offering a compact yet impactful presence. The size is ideal for display, allowing the intricate details of the bottle to be admired without overwhelming the space. It is a testament to Grenoville's ability to combine aesthetic beauty with functional design, creating a perfume bottle that is not just a container, but a work of art in its own right.

 Tonnelet Bottle:

The "tonnelet" bottle, aptly named for its barrel-like shape, stands out as a unique and captivating design in the world of perfume bottles. Its ribbed sides, reminiscent of the traditional wooden barrels used for aging wine or spirits, give it an unmistakable texture and tactile appeal. These vertical grooves run the length of the bottle, creating a pattern that is both visually striking and pleasant to the touch. The ribbed design not only enhances the bottle's aesthetic, but it also evokes a sense of craftsmanship and durability, suggesting a connection to the old-world traditions of storage and preservation.

Atop the bottle is a gilded metal screw cap, which adds a luxurious touch to the overall design. The gleaming metal contrasts beautifully with the bottle's soft, transparent glass, giving it a refined yet sturdy appearance. The screwcap provides both a functional and elegant closure, securing the fragrance inside while complementing the bottle's barrel shape with its smooth, polished finish.

This "tonnelet" bottle was designed to hold 5 ounces of Byzance Eau de Toilette, a generous quantity that suggests the fragrance's importance and its status as a coveted scent. The size of the bottle is substantial enough to make a statement on any vanity or perfume collection, yet its design maintains an elegant simplicity that prevents it from feeling overbearing.

The overall look of the bottle reflects the luxurious yet accessible nature of Byzance by Grenoville. It stands as a symbol of the brand's commitment to both form and function, blending an unconventional design with sophisticated materials and finishes. The "tonnelet" bottle’s ribbed texture, gilded screwcap, and generous size make it a standout piece, embodying the essence of classic French perfumery with a touch of modern sensibility.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The outbreak of World War II brought significant disruptions to the global perfume industry, and Grenoville was no exception. The exportation of their perfumes, including the much-beloved Byzance, came to a standstill as wartime restrictions, resource shortages, and logistical challenges took precedence over luxury goods. For Grenoville, as with many European perfume houses, the war years were a time of survival rather than expansion. The suspension of international trade marked a halt in the global reach of their creations, leaving Byzance and other fragrances confined to local markets.

Following the war, as the world slowly began to rebuild, many perfume houses eagerly resumed exports to meet the pent-up demand for luxury and beauty in the postwar era. Grenoville, however, took a slightly more cautious approach, resuming exports in 1948, a few years after some of their contemporaries. This delay may have been due to resource constraints, restructuring efforts, or strategic decisions about the direction of the brand. Nevertheless, when Grenoville re-entered the international market, their fragrances, including Byzance, carried with them an air of nostalgia and resilience, representing a return to elegance and normalcy in a world recovering from conflict.

Byzance continued to captivate its audience into the 1950s, its rich floral composition and evocative name standing as a testament to the enduring allure of pre-war glamour. However, by the mid-20th century, shifts in consumer preferences and the emergence of new fragrance trends likely contributed to its eventual discontinuation. The popularity of aldehydic florals, chypres, and lighter, more modern compositions may have overshadowed the opulent, heady character of Byzance. By the time it was discontinued, Byzance had already etched its place in the annals of perfumery history, remembered as one of Grenoville's most iconic creations, embodying both the opulence of its launch era and the resilience of its postwar revival.