Vivara by Emilio Pucci c1965

In 1965, when Emilio Pucci launched his perfume "Vivara," the world was captivated by the allure of vacationing and cruising to exotic island locales, particularly in Italy. This era marked a time of leisure and luxury, where jet-setting to destinations like the Amalfi Coast and Capri became synonymous with the glamorous lifestyle of the rich and famous. Films of the time often depicted romantic escapades and adventures set against the backdrop of sun-drenched Mediterranean islands, reinforcing the fantasy of carefree indulgence and sophisticated elegance.

Emilio Pucci chose the name "Vivara" for his perfume, inspired by a deserted crescent-shaped island opposite Ischia in the Bay of Naples. The word "Vivara" itself is evocative; in Italian, it means vibrant or vivid, suggesting life, vitality, and the vivid colors for which Pucci's fashion designs were renowned. It's a name that conjures images of untouched natural beauty, serene landscapes, and the allure of hidden paradises waiting to be discovered.

For women of the time period, a perfume called "Vivara" would have resonated deeply. It promised a fragrance experience that transported them to the essence of Italian luxury and the Mediterranean lifestyle—sun-kissed beaches, warm sea breezes, and the sophistication of Italian fashion. The name itself, with its exotic connotations and association with a remote island, would have appealed to their desire for escapism and elegance.

The perfume "Vivara" would likely have been received with enthusiasm. Its name alone suggests a sensory journey—a blend of floral, citrus, and aquatic notes that could evoke the feelings of freedom, sensuality, and adventure. Women would have responded to it as a fragrance that not only complemented their style but also enhanced their personal allure, embodying the spirit of wanderlust and sophistication.

"Vivara" is indeed a unique name for a perfume, distinctively capturing the essence of Pucci's vision and the cultural zeitgeist of the 1960s. It stands out for its exoticism and the promise of a luxurious olfactory experience. The word "Vivara" itself could be interpreted as a blend of vivaciousness and aura, suggesting a radiant and captivating presence.

"Vivara" by Emilio Pucci was created by Michel Hy. Michel Hy was a renowned perfumer known for his expertise in crafting elegant and sophisticated fragrances. His work on "Vivara" ensured that the perfume captured the essence of Pucci's vision—blending floral, citrus, and aquatic notes to evoke the luxurious and adventurous spirit associated with the Italian coast and Mediterranean islands. Michel Hy's involvement added to the allure and quality of "Vivara," making it a distinctive fragrance that resonated with the fashion-forward and sophisticated women of the 1960s.

In essence, "Vivara" by Emilio Pucci encapsulates a moment in time when fashion, fragrance, and travel intertwined to create a glamorous narrative of escape and elegance. It remains a testament to the enduring appeal of Italian style and the allure of far-flung destinations, resonating with those who seek beauty, adventure, and the essence of la dolce vita.

 

The Launch: 

In February of 1965, Pucci flew 100 journalists and the international jetset on Braniff Airlines to Acapulco for a three day junket to launch the newly minted Vivara perfume. Pucci was looking to include a cross-section of society and other luminaries from all over the country. Pucci also attended business meetings with Braniff in connection with his creation of new uniforms for Braniff's stewardesses. Braniff's board of directors were having a board meeting at the El Presidente in Acapulco, in recognition of being the first US flag carrier to inaugurate direct flights to Acapulco which doubled its serving to Latin America and Mexico. 

Parties were held from Thursday through Sunday. The Las Brisas Hotel was the main headquarters for many of the guests who spent their downtime at the individual pools and cabanas. Thursday evening's festivities were hosted by New Yorkers Jack and Martha Tinker and Mary Wells, at their home, Los Ochos Caballos, built around a waterfall on the side of a hill overlooking the sea. Guests were entertained by a music group called The New Order, made its debut, all six of the longhaired New Yorkers were wearing sportshirts made of Pucci's "Vivara" print.

Friday afternoon, actress Merle Oberon de Pagliai, who owns one of the homes in Acapulco, chartered a yacht, the Fiesta I, for the entire house party for a cocktail cruise around Acapulco Bay. Eddie Fisher entertained on the upper deck crooning his rendition of "Where or When" and accompanied by a group of Mexican mariachi musicians. An incoming storm squall made the sea thrash the yacht to and fro but the exciting party went on to a luncheon at La Concha Beach Club.

Later that evening, a pool-side dinner dance was held at the Villa Vera Racquet Club given by Pucci and T. Reed Vreeland, president of Pucci Perfumes, Inc in the Western Hemisphere. Guests were treated to a scene of tropical flowers floating in the pool, swaying palm trees, and a bubbling, lighted fountain near the bar filled with Vivara perfume. The group New Order again played for the dancers. A sudden rain shower made everyone scramble for shelter under trees, umbrellas and tables, and the guests took this chance to get to know one another and some headed to the kitchen to finish eating. However, guests were shocked by the news that Hedy Lamarr had been arrested. The partygoers then headed to La Perla at El Mirador and then a popular discotheque, Tequila A Go Go where they danced until 5 am.

On Saturday, a buffet luncheon was held at the La Isla outdoor restaurant at the Acapulco Hilton, Mexican musicians strolled around the diners, playing requests. The Hilton boasted a half-mile long swimming pool that encircled the dining area. Honored guests were members of the press who were visiting the resort and press visitors from Mexico City. 

Later that evening, a cocktail party hosted by Mr & Mrs Migue Guajardo at their luxurious residence across the street from the Club de Pesca Hotel. The Guajardo home featured sliding glass panels which opened to various patios and marble stairs that led to the split levels. Outside, guests marveled over the elaborate display of fireworks. This was followed up at the dinner dance on the Starlight Roof of the Palacio Tropical Hotel, hosted by Marchese Emilio Pucci di Barsento and Harding L. Lawrence of Braniff Airlines. Guests were entertained again by New Order while taking in the view of the city and the bay.

Among the lucky guests who attended were Pucci's wife the Marchesa di Barsento of Florence, Mr & Mrs Douglas Fairbanks Jr. who were staying with Miss Oberon., Eddie Fisher, the Duke of Bedford's stepdaughter Caterine Milinaire, Kathleen Windsor, Rod & Mary Taylor, Mrs & Mrs Herman Lay, Luis Estevez, Mary George Beggs, Anita Colby, Betty Beale, Dr. John Smedley, Margaret Case, Mrs Aileen Mehle (Suzy Knickerbocher), Aurora Hitchcock, Countess von Lendorf (the model Varushka), DeDee & Jake Walker, Jo Ann King, Susan & John Auston, Geanie & John Green, Miguel Aleman, Mr & Mrs Henry E. Catto Jr, Howard Ferguson III, Tommy McGreevy, Melcher Perusquia, John Mecom, Mr & Mrs Norfleet Turner, Oscar de la Renta, Mary (Minnie) Cushing and the Baron and Baroness Guy de Rothschild and their French house guests. Journalists such as the Dallas' Morning News' Carolyn Patrick, and Washington Daily News' society editor Wauhillau La Hay.

 

Fragrance Composition:

 So what does it smell like? It is classified as an balsamic green fragrance for women, evocative of the Mediterranean sun, salt, sea, and summer in Emilio Pucci's distinctive style. It starts with a green fruity aldehydic top, followed by a fruity floral heart, layered over a warm, woody and ambery base.

• Top notes: Calabrian lemon, Messina bergamot, Iranian galbanum, spice oils, green notes, peach and aldehydes
• Middle notes: carnation, Provencal jasmine, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, Grasse may rose absolute and Manila ylang-ylang
• Base notes: Moroccan labdanum, Crau cypress, Indonesian patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, leather, Alpine oakmoss, Java vetiver, amber, Siamese benzoin and olibanum

Vivara Concentre, the "super-strength perfume." The Vivara Concentre was available in four sizes:

• 1/4 oz (7ml)
• 1/2 oz (15ml)
• 1 oz (30 ml)
• 2 oz (60ml)

Note: the Stra-Vivara replaced the Vivara Concentre, the "super-strength perfume."

The Stra-Vivara (Super Perfume) was an ultra concentrated parfum composed by the perfumers at Roure using only the costliest floral absolutes, it had the same formula as the Parfum, but the Parfum is not as strong. The Stra-Vivara Super Perfume was available in four sizes:

• 1/4 oz (7ml)
• 1/2 oz (15ml)
• 1 oz (30 ml)
• 2 oz (60ml)

The notes for the Stra-Vivara Super Perfume:

• Top notes: Calabrian lemon, Messina bergamot, La Crau cypress
• Middle notes: Grasse may rose absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Provencal jasmine absolute, Manila ylang ylang absolute
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Moroccan labdanum

Vivara was originally available in the following products:

• Parfum (2 oz, 1 oz, 1/2 oz, 1/4 oz)
• Parfum Concentree (1968)
• Eau de Parfum  
• Super Perfume (launched in 1966)
• Perfume Oil (launched in 1969)
• Stra-Vivara (launched in 1969)
• Light Perfume
• Eau de Vivara (Eau de Toilette)
• Spray Cologne
• 6 oz Dusting Powder/Bath Powder
• Bath Oil
• Soap
• 2 oz Eau de Vivara (Toilette) Splash
• 4 oz Eau de Vivara (Toilette) Splash
• 2 oz Eau de Vivara (Toilette) Spray Mist
• Vivara Super Perfume Concentre
• 0.25 oz Vivara Super Perfume Purse Mist Concentre

The New Yorker, 1967:

"Emilio Pucci's Vivara (in lots of shops) is all sunshine and flowers—a bit sweet but not too much so... has been around for some time; I speak of it now because it has acquired the usual side effects——-purse spray, bath powder, bath oil."

Mademoiselle, 1969:

"Something very fresh and clean and up-tempo about Emilio Pucci's Vivara— something like the lure of the open road. A good breezy perfume to wear in an open convertible."

Bottles:

Presented in a clear glass bottle with a flared white gold rimmed cap, the base of the bottle is molded with ‘HP’ the trademark of Pochet et du Courval. The seven-color box containing Emilio Pucci's Vivara perfume is made from a specially embossed, pearlized board that simulates the soft, shiny texture of silk. The package is designed to duplicate a Pucci fabric creation. Designer: Karl Fink.

The bottle for Stra-Vivara was designed by sculptor Serge Mansau in 1965 and produced in France by Pochet et du Courval.

In 1968, Eau de Vivara, the eau de toilette version was released, this is discontinued.

Fate of the Fragrance:

This has been discontinued since the mid 1980s and can be quite hard to find.

CLICK HERE TO FIND VIVARA BY PUCCI

In 2007, Vivara was reformulated by Francois Demachy, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto and Marie-Aude Couture-Bluche and relaunched in a new flacon.

The newer reissue smells nothing like the original. It is classified as a chypre floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: amaretto, galbanum and Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: daffodil flowers, orange blossom, Sambac jasmine and narcissus
• Base notes: patchouli, Florentine iris and vetiver

Three limited edition bottles:

• 2008 Vivara Silver Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition silver colored bottle.
• 2009 Vivara Black Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition  black colored bottle.
• 2010 Vivara Turquoise Edition, it is the same 2007 Vivara fragrance but housed in a limited edition turquoise blue colored bottle.

Vivara Variazioni Collection of Eau de Toilettes, comprises up of four different variations of the 2007 fragrance Vivara, through the elements of water, sand and sun.

2009 - Vivara Variazioni Sole 149, created by Michel Girard. It is classified as an aromatic fragrance for women.

• Top notes: tomato leaf, galbanum
• Middle notes: Sambac jasmine
• Base notes: patchouli and vetiver

2009 - Vivara Variazioni Sabbia 167, created by Annick Menardo, is classified as a citrus fragrance for women, inspired by the sun-scorched sands of the Mediterranean.

• Top notes: mandarin, lemon
• Middle notes: iris 
• Base notes: sandalwood

2009 - Vivara Variazioni Acqua 330, created by Christophe Raynaud and Louise Turner, is classified as an aquatic floral fragrance for women, inspired by the blue waters of the Mediterranean.

• Top notes: violet leaf and sea accords
• Middle notes: jasmine and frangipani
• Base notes: musk

2011 - Vivara Variazioni Verdi 072, is inspired by the cool freshness of aquatic herbs.

• Top notes: bergamot and mint
• Middle notes: Turkish rose and neroli
• Base notes: cedar and tonka bean