Parfums Guermantes

Parfums Guermantes was founded in 1936 by Claude Caron, a chemist and entrepreneur, at 24 rue de la Paix, Paris, one of the most prestigious shopping streets in the city. Caron, who also operated a pharmacy at this address, ventured into perfumery during a period when Parisian fragrance houses were at the height of their global influence. The choice of the name Guermantes was a nod to Marcel Proust's À la recherche du temps perdu (In Search of Lost Time), referencing the aristocratic Guermantes family in the novel. This literary connection added a sense of sophistication and cultural prestige to the brand.

Claude Caron, the father of famed actress Leslie Caron, infused his fragrances with both scientific precision and artistic flair. His work in perfumery extended through some of the most turbulent periods of modern history, including World War II, during which he continued to produce perfumes despite the challenges of material shortages and wartime restrictions. In fact, Caron recycled bottles from the Lubin perfume house due to post-war rationing and shortages. After the war, the company relocated to 3 place de la Madeleine, Paris, another address synonymous with luxury and refinement.

The fragrances of Parfums Guermantes reflected the timeless elegance and high standards of French perfumery, appealing to an audience that sought both tradition and innovation. Caron’s creations were likely characterized by the use of high-quality ingredients and the subtle blending of classic and modern influences, aligning with the refined tastes of his clientele.

By the early 1950s, as Claude Caron aged, the lack of an heir to continue his work became evident. Despite his dedication to the craft, the perfumery closed its doors by the mid-1950s, marking the end of an era for the boutique house. The legacy of Parfums Guermantes endures as a reflection of Parisian elegance and a reminder of the enduring connection between perfumery and art.

The perfumes of Guermantes:

• 1936 Guermantes de Guermantes
• 1938 Olympe (this is the re-branded fragrance 'Guermantes')
• 1947 Le Temps Retrouve  
• 1947 Swing Time
• 1947 Bel Ami 
• 1947 Cœur Volé ( is a floral fragrance for women Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, and rose de mai. Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, and lilac. Base notes: sandalwood, musk, and oakmoss)
• 1947 Allegretto  
• 1947 Gardenia  (Top notes: cassie, French geranium, neroli, orange. Middle notes: daffodil, rose, ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine. Base notes: musk, storax, civet)

The perfumes from Parfums Guermantes were presented in a variety of distinctive bottle designs, reflecting the elegance and creativity of the Art Deco period. These bottles ranged from striking, tall skyscraper-like shapes to more fluid forms such as ovoid and rectangular designs, capturing the innovative spirit of the time. The bottles also featured sharp geometric lines and zig-zag edges, adding a dynamic and modern touch to their overall aesthetic. These designs were both functional and visually appealing, making them not just containers for fragrance, but small works of art in their own right.

For some of the more popular fragrances, such as Swing Time, Bel Ami, Coeur Vole, Allegreto, Olympe, and Gardenia, Parfums Guermantes offered convenient 1/4 oz purse-size bottles, allowing women to carry their favorite scents with them on the go. These smaller bottles were ideal for the fashionable, cosmopolitan woman who desired a touch of luxury at any moment of the day.

The perfumes Swing Time, Bel Ami, Coeur Vole, Allegreto, and Gardenia were also available in larger sizes, providing options for those who wished to indulge in a more lasting experience of the fragrance. These included the 3/5 oz (petit modèle), 1 oz (moyen modèle), and 2 oz (grand modèle) bottles. The varying sizes offered versatility, allowing customers to choose based on their preferences or need for a more economical purchase. Whether in a compact, travel-friendly size or a larger bottle meant for the vanity, the presentation of Parfums Guermantes’ fragrances ensured that the perfumes could be enjoyed and admired both for their scent and their artistic packaging.

The perfumes of Guermantes, established in 1936, reflect the timeless elegance and innovation of their era. Each fragrance, meticulously crafted, carries its own distinctive story, evoking a unique world of scents and emotions. Below is a closer look at some of the key offerings from the house of Guermantes:

Guermantes de Guermantes:

The eponymous Guermantes de Guermantes launched in 1936, carried a name that evoked both aristocratic grandeur and the sophistication of the brand. Though the precise composition is less documented, it likely contained floral and woody elements typical of the period, offering a refined, elegant profile suitable for the distinguished woman of the time.

Olympe:

Originally introduced as Guermantes, this fragrance was rebranded as Olympe in 1938, perhaps to invoke the grandeur and divine imagery of Mount Olympus. The name Olympe itself suggests a fragrance that would blend regal floral and green notes, paired with the rich depth of classic woody elements. Likely containing aromatic florals such as jasmine and rose, Olympe would have projected a sense of celestial grace, enhanced by warm, sensual undertones like sandalwood or amber.

The perfume Olympe was available in a 3/4 oz Torsade flacon that looks like a Greek amphora. This delicate glass bottle measures 3.77" tall. It features a paper hang tag that is embossed to resemble a silver Greek coin. The presentation box features a stylized tableau of Aphrodite and Artemis being anointed with perfume by Cupid.

Cœur Volé:

The name Cœur Volé translates to "Stolen Heart," suggesting a fragrance that embodies both passion and intrigue. Launched in 1947, it is a floral composition with top notes of neroli (orange blossom), bergamot, and the soft sweetness of rose de mai. The heart features a lush bouquet of rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and lilac, offering a rich, romantic experience. The base notes of sandalwood, musk, and oakmoss ground the fragrance, providing a warm and sensual foundation that completes the overall profile of an irresistible, deeply evocative scent.

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, and rose de mai
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, and lilac
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, and oakmoss

Gardenia:

Gardenia was another hallmark fragrance from Guermantes, launched in 1947. A classic floral perfume, it opens with the delicate notes of cassie, French geranium, and neroli, while the heart blooms with daffodil, rose, ylang-ylang, tuberose, and jasmine. The base of musk, storax, and civet adds a deep, sensual warmth to the floral richness. This composition would have felt both fresh and intoxicating, evoking the elegance of gardenias in full bloom, balanced with an earthy, animalic undertone that added mystery and allure.

Each of these fragrances encapsulates the timeless elegance and sophisticated charm that Parfums Guermantes embodied. From the floral elegance of Cœur Volé to the sunny vibrance of Swing Time, and the deeper, sensual notes of Gardenia, these perfumes reflect both the trends of the 1940s and a timeless sense of luxury.

• Top notes: cassie, French geranium, neroli, orange
• Middle notes: daffodil, rose, ylang ylang, tuberose, jasmine
• Base notes: musk, storax, civet

Allegretto:

The name Allegretto, which translates to "slightly fast" in musical terms, hints at a lively, upbeat fragrance. Likely a floral-oriental blend, Allegretto would have featured a combination of fresh, sparkling florals with subtle woody or spicy undertones, evoking a sense of joyous movement and elegance in every spritz.

Bel Ami:

A fragrance that exudes charm and a certain mystery, Bel Ami (meaning "handsome friend" in French) was introduced in 1947. This perfume would have balanced sweet, warm, and spicy notes, perhaps including amber, leather, and oakmoss with floral elements like jasmine or rose, invoking a sophisticated, masculine elegance with an undercurrent of seduction.

Swing Time:

Inspired by the carefree, rhythmic energy of the swing era, Swing Time would have embraced lively, fresh notes. The fragrance might have included vibrant citrus accords such as lemon or orange blossom, accompanied by light florals and a base of woody or musky elements, perfectly capturing the vivacious spirit of the late 1940s.

Le Temps Retrouvé:

Le Temps Retrouvé, meaning "The Time Found," launched in 1947, likely evokes the passage of time, a theme that speaks to both nostalgia and renewal. The fragrance may have featured an elegant blend of lavender, citrus, and soft florals, underscored by subtle hints of musk or amber, reflecting a sophisticated, refined sensibility of post-war luxury.

Each of these fragrances encapsulates the timeless elegance and sophisticated charm that Parfums Guermantes embodied. From the floral elegance of Cœur Volé to the sunny vibrance of Swing Time, and the deeper, sensual notes of Gardenia, these perfumes reflect both the trends of the 1940s and a timeless sense of luxury.