Animale by Animale c1987

Launched in 1987, Animale by Animale is a bold and evocative fragrance that reflects both its name and the era in which it was created. Suzanne de Lyon, the fragrance’s visionary founder, chose the name Animale—a word derived from French and Italian, meaning "animal" or "wild creature." Pronounced "ah-nee-mahl", the name carries a primal and untamed quality, conjuring images of raw sensuality, instinctual power, and the untamed forces of nature. The very essence of the word suggests a spirit unrestrained by convention, an embrace of both the fierce and the feminine.

The 1980s was a decade defined by extravagance, power, and a break from the understated minimalism of previous decades. This was the era of excess—opulent fashion, bold silhouettes, and a cultural fascination with wealth and status. Power dressing dominated, with women donning broad-shouldered blazers, cinched waists, and statement jewelry, reflecting their growing presence in corporate and social spheres. In perfumery, scents followed suit, favoring bold compositions that projected confidence and sensuality. The chypre fragrance family, known for its sophisticated blend of citrus, florals, oakmoss, and woods, was particularly dominant during this time, often infused with opulent oriental and animalic notes to create rich, long-lasting perfumes.

For the modern woman of the 1980s, a perfume named Animale would have resonated deeply. It spoke to her strength, sensuality, and unbridled confidence. This was a woman unafraid to embrace her instincts, whether in the boardroom or the dance floor. The marketing materials reinforced this imagery, describing Animale as “steamy, stormy, sensuous”—an electrifying tension between the hunter and the hunted, a fragrance that crackled with anticipation like a jungle before a storm.

  

By 1987, Suzanne de Lyon had already made a name for herself as a Swiss-born, Houston-based entrepreneur with a background in finance and international trade. After earning her Master’s Degree in Finance from Drexel University, she built a career navigating high-stakes industries such as investments, real estate, and luxury imports—including crystal, linens, and lingerie. Her sharp business acumen and refined taste positioned her perfectly for her next endeavor: creating a fragrance that reflected her own vision of sophistication and sensuality.

Determined to launch a signature scent, de Lyon turned to a trusted expert—Thomas E. Virtue, president of Roure Bertrand DuPont, a perfumery house renowned for its mastery of fine fragrance creation. Virtue, known for his impeccable instincts and influence in the industry, guided her in assembling a team of some of the most respected talents in perfumery. The result was Animale, a bold floral chypre that embodied both refinement and wild sensuality.

From the outset, Animale was positioned as a high-end fragrance with a carefully curated retail strategy. It debuted exclusively at Bloomingdale’s on June 1, 1987, underscoring its prestige and aligning it with the department store’s reputation for luxury and trendsetting products. De Lyon took an unconventional approach to the fragrance’s development, collaborating closely with top cosmetics executives at Bloomingdale’s to shape its design, advertising, and promotional strategy. Arline Friedman, Vice President of Cosmetics and Fragrances, Peter Clelland, Divisional Merchandise Manager of Cosmetics and Fragrances, and Onute Miller, Women’s Fragrance Buyer, all played key roles in refining the presentation and marketing of Animale. Their collective expertise ensured that every element—from packaging to in-store promotions—conveyed the elegance and allure of the fragrance.

The meticulous planning and industry partnerships behind Animale were evident in its sophisticated execution. Every detail, from its striking lightning bolt-shaped bottle to its evocative advertising campaign, reflected a seamless blend of artistry and commerce. The high level of professionalism and taste applied to the project distinguished Animale as not just another perfume but as a carefully crafted luxury statement. De Lyon’s entrepreneurial finesse, combined with the expertise of industry veterans, ensured that Animale made a powerful and lasting impression in the competitive world of high-end fragrances.

The launch of Animale at Bloomingdale’s was an event designed to captivate and leave a lasting impression. True to the fragrance’s bold name and concept, the debut was an immersive spectacle that blended exoticism, high fashion, and theatrical flair. Models dressed in sleek zebra-print bodysuits glided through the venue, their striking presence evoking the wild, untamed spirit of the perfume. This visual statement not only reflected the fragrance’s name—Animale, meaning “animal” in French and Italian—but also reinforced its theme of primal allure and raw sophistication.

"A harmonizing of floral notes, woods and musks..combining the classic with the modern. Animale is the sensuous new fragrance by Suzanne de Lyon. A streak of lightning in a frosted crystal flacon. A bold scent which awakens the animal instincts in every woman. A study in contrasts, both the bottle and the perfume, Animale is a bolt from the sky which emanates mystery and romance."

Suzanne de Lyon, ever the astute businesswoman, understood the importance of making a statement. She seized the opportunity to articulate her vision to the press, explaining that Animale was designed to evoke both shock and intrigue—elements she believed were essential to any truly memorable fragrance. "Like any other perfume, it has to be shocking," she stated, emphasizing that a great scent should provoke emotion, spark curiosity, and command attention. Her words captured the essence of Animale—a fragrance that was not merely a composition of notes but a daring olfactory experience meant to stir the senses.

By choosing Bloomingdale’s as the exclusive launch partner, de Lyon positioned Animale within the upper echelons of luxury retail, ensuring that it reached a clientele accustomed to avant-garde fashion and prestige beauty. The event’s theatrical presentation, combined with de Lyon’s confident messaging, set Animale apart in a competitive market saturated with romantic florals and soft, powdery compositions. Instead, Animale embraced intensity, sensuality, and unpredictability, drawing parallels to the dramatic energy of the late 1980s—a decade defined by power dressing, bold statements, and unapologetic glamour.

The launch was more than just a retail debut; it was a declaration of intent. De Lyon was not simply introducing a perfume—she was crafting a brand, a statement, and an identity that resonated with the modern, empowered woman. The meticulously planned spectacle at Bloomingdale’s ensured that Animale was not just seen but remembered, marking the beginning of a fragrance legacy that would continue to evolve in the years to come.

Interpreting the word Animale in scent, the fragrance was masterfully crafted in collaboration with Suzanne de Lyon and the esteemed perfumers at Roure Bertrand. It is classified as a floral chypre, a genre known for its elegant yet provocative character. The composition opens with a fresh, floral top, leading into a lush, rosy heart, and settling into a warm, woody base rich with resins, oakmoss, and musk. This combination created a fragrance that was both sophisticated and instinctual—taming vivacious florals with deep, sensual undertones.

Within the broader landscape of 1980s perfumery, Animale aligned with prevailing trends while maintaining a distinct identity. Chypres were in high demand, with powerhouse fragrances like Paloma Picasso’s Mon Parfum (1984) and Estée Lauder’s Knowing (1988) embodying a similar boldness. However, Animale set itself apart through its unique branding and presentation. Housed in a striking frosted crystal flacon, its lightning bolt design mirrored the perfume’s theme—electric, untamed, and impossible to ignore.

In every aspect, Animale was a product of its time, capturing the essence of the 1980s woman: fierce, glamorous, and unapologetically powerful. It was more than just a fragrance—it was a statement, a call to embrace one’s instincts and revel in the thrill of the chase.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Animale by Animale is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh flowery top, followed by a rosy floral heart, resting on a warm, woody base. 

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, green notes, Spanish basil, Russian coriander, Dutch hyacinth, Brazilian rosewood, Italian neroli
• Middle notes: Jamaican pimento berry, Manila ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Grasse rose, French carnation, Florentine orris, Alpine lily of the valley, Provencal honey
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Maltese labdanum, Tyrolean oakmoss, Tonkin musk, Haitian vetiver, Singapore patchouli, Canadian castoreum, Ethiopian civet, Indonesian coconut, Himalayan costus

Product Marketing for Beauty Industry Retailers & Manufacturers, 1987:

"Rather than the traditional head/heart/body progression, the fragrance is a linear, modem one which retains the initial impression through wearing. Rose is a major theme, with jasmine, ylang ylang, and neroli balanced by pimento berry, musk, labdanum and patchouly."

Scent Profile:

Animale by Animale unfolds like an opulent journey through nature’s most exotic and precious raw materials, each ingredient whispering a story of origin, tradition, and sensuality.

The fragrance opens with a dazzling brightness, where Calabrian bergamot radiates its crisp, citrusy sparkle, harvested from the sun-drenched orchards of southern Italy, renowned for yielding the most refined and aromatic essence. A verdant burst of green notes follows, evoking the fresh, untamed wilderness, while Spanish basil contributes its peppery, slightly anise-like sharpness, invigorating the senses. 

Russian coriander adds a cool, spicy intrigue, its crisp edge softened by the soft, aquatic florality of Dutch hyacinth, whose cultivated blossoms bring a hint of dewy freshness. Brazilian rosewood enriches the opening with its warm, woody sweetness, its deep, slightly spicy aroma adding dimension. Italian neroli, distilled from the finest orange blossoms, unfurls with a radiant, honeyed glow—both luminous and delicate, its ethereal sweetness lingering in the air like the warmth of the Mediterranean sun.

As the scent deepens, the heart blooms with a lush floral medley, pulsating with exotic warmth. Jamaican pimento berry, an unexpected touch, lends a piquant, clove-like spiciness, adding fiery depth to the opulent bouquet. Manila ylang-ylang drapes the composition in a narcotic, creamy richness, its tropical intensity softened by the intoxicating femininity of Egyptian jasmine, celebrated for its heady, slightly animalic floralcy. 

The legendary Grasse rose, cultivated in the perfume capital of the world, unveils its velvety, multi-dimensional beauty—a balance of soft sweetness and deep, romantic warmth. French carnation enhances the heart’s fiery complexity with its peppery clove facets, while Florentine orris, one of perfumery’s most precious materials, infuses a powdery, violet-like elegance. Alpine lily of the valley introduces a crisp, green floralcy, like a spring breeze drifting through a meadow, while Provencal honey adds a golden touch, its delicate sweetness lending an almost edible, sun-drenched warmth to the composition.

As Animale settles into its base, the fragrance takes on an irresistible, primal allure, its foundation rich with sensuality and depth. Mysore sandalwood, known for its unparalleled creamy, woody smoothness, brings warmth and sophistication, its resinous depth further enhanced by the smoky, ambery glow of Maltese labdanum. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the pristine alpine forests, offers an earthy, slightly leathery greenness—an essential anchor in the classic chypre tradition. Tonkin musk, once treasured for its hypnotic animalic richness, evokes a sense of intimate warmth, while Haitian vetiver, with its dry, smoky depth, adds a grounding, slightly bitter contrast. 

Singapore patchouli envelops the composition in its deep, camphorous earthiness, lending a dark, mysterious sensuality. Canadian castoreum, a rare and intriguing ingredient, brings a smooth, supple leatheriness, echoing the scent of polished skins and wild nature. Ethiopian civet, in its most refined essence, infuses an unmistakable warmth, a whisper of untamed desire that lingers on the skin. Indonesian coconut weaves in an unexpected creamy, tropical facet, softening the intensity with its smooth, milky sweetness, while Himalayan costus, a rare root known for its musky, slightly smoky aroma, leaves a lingering trail of enigmatic seduction.

Each note in Animale tells a tale of distant lands, of rare and precious botanicals gathered from the most storied regions of the world. The fragrance moves through a symphony of contrasts—fresh and spicy, floral and earthy, sensual and wild—capturing the essence of its name. It is primal yet sophisticated, untamed yet elegant, an intoxicating elixir that calls to the instinctual nature within, daring the wearer to embrace their inner Animale.

 

Bottle:

In collaboration with Suzanne de Lyon, the entrepreneurial force behind Animale, Gerard Caron, chairman of the board at Carre Noir USA, took charge of the packaging and design. "The name Animale suggests something soft and rounded, but we wanted the surprise of contrast," he explains. This sentiment resonates throughout the design process, culminating in a perfume bottle that defies expectations. 

Standing at 7 inches tall and weighing a substantial one and a half pounds, the bottle is crafted from frosted solid crystal, featuring sharp angles and slashing diagonals. Within this striking vessel, a lightning bolt of clear crystal cuts a startling oblique line, housing the precious perfume within—a bold representation of the fragrance's daring nature. As described by The New York Times Magazine, Animale is indeed "sold in a bottle resembling a bolt of lightning," a testament to its electrifying presence in the world of fragrance.

The New York Times Magazine, 1987:

" Animale, a new perfume marketed by a businesswoman, Suzanne de Lyon, is sold in a bottle resembling a bolt of lightning."

 Product Marketing for Beauty Industry Retailers & Manufacturers, 1987:

"Gerard Caron, chairman of the board, Carre Noir USA undertook the packaging and design creation. "The name Animale suggests something soft and rounded, but we wanted the surprise of contrast," he says. And how! The 1-oz perfume bottle is all right angles and slashing diagonals, a tall (7 inches) and weighty (one and a half pounds) slab of frosted solid crystal with a lightning bolt of clear crystal (in which the perfume is contained) cutting a startling oblique line. Animale's vivid colors——emerald, purple, turquoise and fuchsia—dart across the box in a geometric design."

Initially, the collection boasted a luxurious array of offerings, catering to diverse preferences and budgets:

• 1 oz Parfum, a pinnacle of indulgence, retailed at $200.
• 1/4 oz Parfum, a smaller yet exquisite option, was available for $80.
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Spray and 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Spray provided versatile options for everyday wear, priced at $45 and $70 respectively.
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum Splash and 3.4 oz Eau de Parfum Splash offered a refreshing alternative, each priced at $40 and $65.

By 1994, the collection expanded to include:

• 0.2 oz Parfum miniature, perfect for sampling the scent on-the-go.
• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray, offering a lighter interpretation of the fragrance.
• Bath Foam and Dusting Powder, enhancing the sensory experience beyond just scent.

Releasing matching body products alongside a perfume offers consumers the opportunity to engage in what is often referred to as "fragrance layering." This involves using multiple scented products from the same line, such as body lotion, shower gel, or dusting powder, in conjunction with the perfume itself.

Layering enhances the longevity and intensity of the fragrance, as each product contains complementary scent notes that build upon and enhance the perfume's aroma. For example, using a scented body lotion or shower gel before applying the perfume can create a more robust and long-lasting scent experience, as the fragrance is absorbed into the skin and layered with the perfume.

Additionally, matching body products contribute to a cohesive sensory experience, allowing consumers to enjoy the fragrance in various forms throughout their daily routine, from bathing to moisturizing to wearing the perfume itself. This holistic approach to scent creates a more immersive and memorable experience for the consumer, fostering brand loyalty and enhancing the overall perception of the fragrance line.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1987, Suzanne de Lyon established Parfums Animale, marking the inception of a captivating fragrance venture. However, in 1989, the company's trajectory was overshadowed by an FBI investigation focused on Suzanne Frame, also known professionally as Suzanne de Lyon, and her involvement in a cluster of companies alongside her husband. Among these entities was Suzanne de Lyon, Inc., the manufacturer responsible for producing the Animale fragrance.

The investigation spotlighted allegations of financial misconduct, with suspicions of bank funds being redirected for personal use. Notably, attention was drawn to a series of checks made payable to Bill Thompson, who had received interest payments from loans issued by Texas Investment Bank during Jack Frame's tenure as an officer. These checks were subsequently deposited into an account held by Jack Frame at Western-Bank-Westheimer, as revealed in federal civil case records filed by aggrieved investors against Suzanne Frame. The FBI, in a letter addressed to investors, disclosed that Suzanne Frame and her business associate, Manuel Zepeda, were under scrutiny for potential violations of federal mail fraud statutes.

In 1990, amidst financial turmoil, Parlux assumed control of the company following Suzanne de Lyon's bankruptcy filing. Eventually, in 2004, the Animale brand found new ownership under the Animale Group, signaling a new chapter in its storied history.

Flankers:

Flanker scents refer to variations or spin-offs of an original perfume. These variations typically retain certain key elements of the original scent but introduce new notes or nuances to create a distinct olfactory experience. Here's a breakdown of the flanker scents for Animale:

• 1994 - Animale Animale: This flanker likely builds upon the foundation of the original Animale fragrance, perhaps enhancing certain notes or introducing new elements to create a unique interpretation.

• 1997 - Instinct d'Animale: This flanker might focus on highlighting the instinctual or primal aspects of the original Animale fragrance, possibly by introducing deeper, more animalic notes or emphasizing certain accords to evoke a sense of raw sensuality.

• 2000 - Chaleur d`Animale: "Chaleur" translates to "heat" in French, suggesting that this flanker scent could explore warmer, spicier facets of the original fragrance. It might feature notes that evoke a sense of warmth or intensity, such as spicy spices, rich woods, or amber.

• 2006 - Animale Temptation: This flanker likely aims to evoke feelings of temptation and allure. It might feature notes that are traditionally associated with seduction, such as exotic florals, sweet fruits, or sensual musks, to create a captivating and irresistible scent.

• 2012 - Animale Love: This flanker might focus on capturing the essence of love and romance. It could feature soft, romantic florals, delicate powdery notes, or sweet, creamy accords to evoke feelings of affection and intimacy.

• 2013 - Animale Intense: This flanker may offer a more concentrated and intense version of the original Animale fragrance, with deeper, richer notes and a longer-lasting sillage. It might appeal to those who prefer bolder, more impactful scents.

Animale for Men:

Here's a breakdown of Animale for Men and its subsequent flankers:

• 1993 Animale for Men: This fragrance, released in 1993, likely represents the original iteration of the Animale scent tailored specifically for men. It could feature a blend of masculine notes such as woods, spices, and citrus, creating a bold and sophisticated aroma.

• 1994 Animale Animale for Men: Following the success of the original Animale for Men, this flanker scent was introduced in 1994. It might offer a variation on the original theme, possibly amplifying certain notes or introducing new elements to create a unique olfactory experience.

• 2000 Chaleur d`Animale pour Homme: "Chaleur" translates to "heat" in French, suggesting that this flanker scent explores warm and spicy facets of the original Animale for Men. It might feature notes like cinnamon, cardamom, and amber, creating a scent that exudes intensity and sensuality.

• 2005 Animale Azul: This flanker could be a fresh interpretation of the original Animale for Men, featuring bright and invigorating notes such as citrus, marine accords, and aromatic herbs. It might evoke a sense of vitality and energy, perfect for daytime wear.

• 2005 Animale Temptation Man: This flanker likely aims to capture the allure and temptation associated with the original Animale for Men. It could feature notes that exude seduction and masculinity, such as leather, tobacco, and exotic spices, creating a scent that is both sophisticated and alluring.

• Animale Black: This flanker might offer a darker and more intense version of the original Animale for Men. It could feature notes like leather, oud, and dark woods, creating a bold and mysterious fragrance that is perfect for evening wear or special occasions.