Gigolo by Germaine Monteil c1951

Gigolo by Germaine Monteil, launched in 1951, is a perfume name that sparks curiosity and intrigue. The word "Gigolo" comes from the Italian and French languages, where it refers to a young man who is financially supported by an older woman in exchange for companionship, often with romantic or sexual connotations. The term gained a certain level of notoriety, suggesting a figure who is charming, seductive, and possibly a little dangerous. By choosing such a provocative name, Monteil created a fragrance that would evoke boldness and mystery—qualities that resonated with women seeking to express a more daring and confident side of their personalities.

American women in the early 1950s would have understood the meaning of the word "gigolo," especially as it had already entered popular culture through films and literature. The name "Gigolo" would likely evoke images of sophisticated men, nightlife, and a sense of alluring danger. It conjures emotions of glamour, seduction, and excitement, making it an unusual yet compelling choice for a women's fragrance. As a name for a perfume, Gigolo suggests a scent that is intoxicating and captivating, one that lingers like the memory of a forbidden romance.

In scent, "Gigolo" could be interpreted as a blend of charm and intrigue, balancing sweetness with an edge of the unexpected. Classified as a sweet, green floral fougère fragrance, this composition reflects the tension between refinement and sensuality. The green notes suggest freshness and elegance, while the sweet undertones evoke femininity and warmth. The fougère base, typically associated with masculine fragrances, introduces an element of surprise, adding depth and complexity to the scent—just as the name itself plays with contrasting ideas of femininity and seduction.

In the context of the early 1950s, a perfume called "Gigolo" would have been quite daring. This was a time when post-war society was experiencing a return to normalcy, but with a growing desire for self-expression and sophistication. The glamor of Hollywood and the rise of more independent female icons influenced fashion and beauty trends. Women were beginning to embrace more assertive roles in both their personal and professional lives, and a perfume with a name like Gigolo would have resonated with those who wanted to project an air of confidence and intrigue. The name itself would have likely sparked conversation and piqued curiosity, making it stand out in the world of perfumes that were often more conservatively named.

In terms of fragrance trends, Gigolo stood out for its unique balance of green florals and fougère elements. Many women’s fragrances of the time focused on floral and aldehydic profiles that were light, fresh, and feminine. By incorporating the more unisex fougère accord—a blend of lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin traditionally used in men’s fragrances—Monteil created a scent that felt modern, bold, and slightly rebellious. This innovative approach reflected the changing attitudes of the era, as women sought to break free from traditional norms and explore new forms of self-expression.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Gigolo by Germaine Monteil is classified as a sweet, green floral fougere fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Provencal lavender, Calabrian bergamot, Bourbon geranium, Sicilian lemon, Tunisian neroli, Italian bitter orange, aldehydes
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine, Comoros ylang ylang, Tuscan iris, French carnation
• Base notes: Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Tonkin musk, Mexican vanilla, Sumatran patchouli, Siamese benzoin, Ethiopian civet, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean, Java vetiver

Cue: The Weekly Magazine of New York Life, 1951:

"Germaine Monteil's new Gigolo, a captivating, French perfume with a rose and jasmine base."

Scent Profile:

Gigolo by Germaine Monteil unfolds as a dazzling, multi-layered fragrance that balances an exuberant green floral composition with an undeniable depth and warmth. Each ingredient tells its own unique story, transporting the wearer through a landscape of rich natural textures and a sense of classic elegance.

The top notes of Provencal lavender greet you first, releasing a clear, soothing, and aromatic breeze. The lavender, grown in the lush fields of the Provence region in France, has a soft yet herbaceous quality that is distinctly clean and fresh. As the fragrance evolves, Calabrian bergamot comes forward, providing a citrusy, zesty freshness that sparkles like sunlight on morning dew. This particular bergamot, hailing from the Calabria region of Italy, is known for its vibrant and intensely aromatic scent, sweeter and more floral than its counterparts. 

The bright, citrus bite of Sicilian lemon further amplifies this fresh opening, offering a tangy sweetness that lifts the fragrance. The addition of Tunisian neroli brings a delicate floral bitterness, evoking the sunny, fragrant groves of the Mediterranean where it is cultivated. Italian bitter orange adds complexity, with its tangy, slightly bitter yet fragrant profile, offering a sophisticated citrus nuance that hints at both brightness and depth. At the very top, aldehydes create a brilliant sparkle, enveloping the other notes in a crisp, almost metallic sheen that heightens the luminosity of the entire composition, adding a clean, almost soapy freshness that is characteristic of many classic perfumes.

As the fragrance begins to settle, the middle notes bloom with elegance. The iconic Bulgarian rose, a symbol of luxury, unfurls its rich, deep, and velvety floral scent. This rose is known for its complexity, blending both sweet and slightly spicy facets, making it far more nuanced than the average rose. Grasse jasmine, sourced from the famous French region, adds its intoxicating, heady sweetness, a signature of luxury in perfumery. The jasmine here is full-bodied, lush, and slightly indolic, with a touch of animalic warmth that lingers. 

The addition of Comoros ylang-ylang brings a creamy, exotic sweetness, evoking tropical warmth with its rich, fruity floral notes that seem to float like a soft cloud. In the heart of this floral bouquet lies Tuscan iris, delicate yet powdery, offering an elegant, almost suede-like texture. Iris, especially from Tuscany, is prized for its light, fresh floral scent, which contrasts beautifully with the deeper, more opulent flowers surrounding it. French carnation, with its spicy-sweet, clove-like scent, injects a warm, slightly peppery undertone, completing the floral blend with a gentle complexity.

As the fragrance begins to deepen and evolve, the base notes emerge with warmth and sensuality. Yugoslavian oakmoss, earthy, green, and rich, forms the backbone of this composition, grounding the fragrance in its earthy depth. The oakmoss, with its deep, forest-like aroma, imparts a natural, slightly damp richness, evoking the scent of rain-soaked earth. Mysore sandalwood from India provides a creamy, soft, and woody backdrop. Its buttery, smooth texture is revered for its calming, sacred quality, with a dry, warm woodiness that wraps the fragrance in elegance. 

The addition of Tonkin musk brings a soft, animalic warmth, rounding out the base with a sensual, almost skin-like sweetness. Mexican vanilla, rich and comforting, adds a creamy, sweet, and slightly spicy edge, offering a smooth and familiar sweetness that deepens the fragrance’s warmth. Sumatran patchouli, deep and earthy, lends a dark, slightly medicinal quality that intertwines with the other base notes, giving the fragrance an exotic, grounding quality. Siamese benzoin contributes a resinous sweetness with its balsamic, almost incense-like fragrance, adding a mystical aura. 

Ethiopian civet enhances the perfume with an animalic sensuality that is rich, deep, and alluring, providing a touch of raw, untamed beauty to the composition. Ambergris, both warm and briny, completes the base with its smooth, complex, and slightly marine scent, adding a luxurious, almost ethereal quality to the fragrance. Finally, Venezuelan tonka bean imparts a sweet, almond-like warmth, with a soft, resinous sweetness that ties all the base elements together, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and mystery. Lastly, Java vetiver, smoky, earthy, and woody, adds the final layer of complexity, its dry, slightly smoky nature perfectly grounding the fragrance.

In Gigolo, every note, from the sparkling freshness of the citrus top to the rich, animalic depths of the base, creates a symphony of complexity and refinement. This fragrance is both radiant and sensual, timeless and contemporary, a perfect blend of nature’s finest ingredients curated to evoke a sense of refined elegance and mystery. The care with which each ingredient has been chosen – from the regions known for their superior quality, like the lavender fields of Provence, the rose gardens of Bulgaria, and the sandalwood groves of Mysore – ensures that Gigolo remains a luxurious and unforgettable fragrance.

Bottles:

Gigolo's parfum was presented in an exquisite, tapered triangular-shaped crystal bottle, a design that reflected the glamour and sophistication of its time. The bottle’s form featured elegantly truncated edges, creating a sleek and angular silhouette that was both modern and artistic. The clear, faceted crystal gleamed in the light, allowing the deep, golden hue of the fragrance to show through, adding a sense of warmth and luxury to the presentation. The bottle was crowned with a tall, crystal stopper, perfectly complementing the bottle's angular shape. The stopper, elegant and refined, completed the bottle with its simple yet striking design, its elongated form evoking a sense of refinement and exclusivity.

The parfum was available in two sizes: a 3/4 oz and a 1 1/2 oz, making it accessible to both casual buyers and those seeking a more indulgent experience. In 1951, the 3/4 oz bottle retailed for $30, while the larger 1 1/2 oz bottle was priced at $50 – both significant sums at the time, reflecting the luxurious quality of the fragrance. These bottles were more than just containers for the fragrance; they were works of art in themselves, designed to evoke feelings of elegance and desire.

Nestled inside a rich red-lined gold presentation box, Gigolo was given a fitting presentation that heightened its prestige. The box, with its soft red velvet lining, cradled the crystal bottle like a precious treasure, adding an extra layer of luxury to the experience of unboxing the fragrance. This attention to detail in the packaging spoke to the high-end nature of the perfume, ensuring that each aspect of the product reflected its luxurious and exclusive appeal.

It’s possible that the bottle was made by Verreries Brosse, a renowned French glassmaker known for producing exquisite perfume bottles. Verreries Brosse had worked with other prestigious fragrance houses, including Monteil, making them a likely candidate for the creation of Gigolo’s striking bottle. Their craftsmanship was known for its precision and elegance, and their involvement in Gigolo would have ensured that the fragrance was presented in a bottle that matched its sophistication and timeless appeal. The design and the quality of the bottle, along with the fragrance itself, reinforced the luxurious allure of Gigolo, making it a symbol of refinement and exclusivity in the world of perfumery.

In addition to the classic parfum, Gigolo was also available in an Eau Concentree, which offered a fragrance concentration that sat between the strength of Eau de Toilette and pure Parfum. The Eau Concentree was a sophisticated option for those who desired a richer scent than the more subtle Eau de Toilette but didn't want the full intensity of the concentrated Parfum. It could be compared to today’s modern Eau de Parfum, which is often the go-to option for fragrance lovers seeking a more lasting, pronounced scent without the overwhelming potency of pure Parfum.

The Eau Concentree was designed to provide a balanced experience, offering a fragrance that lingered on the skin, creating a memorable presence while still remaining elegant and refined. Its strength made it an ideal choice for those who wanted a fragrance that could be worn more casually throughout the day while still retaining a sense of opulence and sophistication. This middle ground made the Eau Concentree a versatile and popular choice in the fragrance market, offering the best of both worlds—an enticing, lasting scent without being too overpowering.

By offering an Eau Concentree, Gigolo catered to a wide range of preferences, giving customers the ability to choose the fragrance strength that best suited their needs and desires. The concentration made it ideal for layering with other products in the Gigolo collection, enhancing the overall olfactory experience. It also provided an accessible alternative for those who might have found the pure Parfum a bit too heavy for everyday wear but still desired the allure and sophistication that Gigolo embodied.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Germaine Monteil introduced Gigolo in 1951 as part of the brand's expanding perfume collection. Known for her sophisticated and elegant fragrances, Monteil aimed to capture a sense of allure and intrigue with Gigolo, a name that evoked both romance and a hint of mischief. It was marketed in the refined style characteristic of Monteil’s other creations, appealing to women who sought a fragrance with a touch of mystery and sophistication.

Although Gigolo remained available for several years, its discontinuation date is unknown. It was still being sold as late as 1956, suggesting that it had a reasonable presence on the market for at least a few years after its launch. However, as tastes and trends evolved, Gigolo eventually faded from Monteil’s perfume lineup. Unlike some of the brand's more enduring fragrances, such as Lelong's Royal Secret (which Monteil later sold), Gigolo did not achieve long-term success and quietly disappeared from production, leaving only traces of its existence in vintage fragrance collections.

Not to be confused with Jean-Pierre Borg’s Gigolo, launched in 1971. Gigolo was not just another fragrance—it was a statement. Marketed as the "eighth dimension" of scent, it defied traditional fragrance classifications, blending green, floral, and woody elements in an innovative, multi-faceted composition. The result was a scent that was fresh yet seductive, structured yet elusive, changing on the skin in unexpected ways. Rooted in East Indian patchouli, Gigolo was a distinctly 1970s perfume—a fragrance of mystery, sensuality, and a touch of rebellion.

The journey of Gigolo began over a decade earlier, with Jean-Pierre Borg and fragrance executive Paul D. Blackman meticulously researching and refining its composition. Blackman, known for introducing Crépe de Chine by Millot and the first Givenchy perfumes to the American market, envisioned a fragrance that filled a void—a scent both modern and nostalgic, bold yet refined. Over ten years, they curated an elaborate formula of 337 ingredients, blending fresh green notes, luxurious florals, and a rich, woody-patchouli base.

The first impression of Gigolo was crisp and verdant, like stepping into a sun-dappled meadow. The green carnation lent a bright spiciness, accentuated by the cool, dewy elegance of baby Bulgarian rose and the heady opulence of jasmine. These floral notes softened the composition, creating an airy and feminine opening that was fresh yet unmistakably sophisticated.

But Gigolo was more than just a green floral. As it settled on the skin, it transformed, revealing its earthy, sensual heart. The East Indian patchouli—dark, resinous, and full-bodied—rose to prominence, giving the perfume an almost hypnotic depth. Patchouli’s presence in the fragrance was no accident; it was a defining note of the 1970s, resonating with the era’s bohemian and free-spirited ethos. The mysterious evolution of the scent was part of its appeal—at one moment, it exuded the fresh, botanical vibrancy of a summer garden, and in the next, it enveloped the wearer in a warm, velvety cloak of exotic woods and musks.

Gigolo was also designed to last, lingering on the skin for up to twelve hours. The fragrance’s structure allowed it to morph as time passed—sometimes emphasizing its fresh green brightness, at other moments drawing attention to its sensual patchouli foundation. This complexity made it feel like wearing multiple perfumes at once, shifting throughout the day in response to the wearer’s warmth and chemistry.

The name "Gigolo" itself was chosen for its evocative charm. Far from its modern connotations, the term originally referred to an elegant companion, someone delightful, charming, and perhaps a little mischievous. According to Madame Jacqueline Goddet, the promotional consultant for Les Parfums Jean-Pierre Borg, the name represented "something beautiful you want to have around." In the 18th century, a gigolo was simply a graceful dancer, and by the 1930s, it came to mean an attractive, cultured man whose presence was adored by women. In essence, the fragrance embodied the spirit of romance, adventure, and sophisticated indulgence.

Marketed as "supergraphic," Gigolo was designed with impact. The parfum contained 20% perfume oils, while the Eau de Toilette boasted 10%—a formula that ensured richness and longevity. The company claimed that Gigolo was “an utterly feminine perfume that explores a woman’s glorious facets—romantic yesterday, unbound today, forthrightly teasing tomorrow.” It was meant to complement the sophisticated, irreverent fashions of the 1970s, a time when bold statements, individualism, and sensuality defined style.

Perhaps most intriguingly, the patchouli-heavy composition found unexpected popularity among young adults, as it was rumored to mask the scent of marijuana, making it even more appealing to the free-spirited generation of the 1970s.

For ease of use, all but one of Gigolo’s perfume sizes were packaged in spray bottles, ensuring convenience for the modern woman on the go. This approach not only made the fragrance portable but also helped preserve its freshness—"less likely to sour," as the company put it.

Gigolo’s packaging was meticulously designed to mirror the dual nature of the fragrance—both contemporary and nostalgic. The bottle itself was a striking combination of crystal and stainless steel, embodying a sleek, modern aesthetic while recalling the sophistication of the past. The outer packaging reinforced this theme with Art Deco-inspired silver and plexiglass-style boxes, crafted by J. Landowne Co., Inc. in Brooklyn, New York, specifically for Les Parfums Jean-Pierre Borg, a division of La Bottega Ltd. The design was the work of Gerald Rosenfeld, who sought to create an elegant yet functional presentation. The half-ounce and one-ounce perfume sizes were encased in clear plastic cubes, enhancing their appeal for gift-giving. Notably, the bottle tops were said to be inspired by the grand Art Deco décor of the old Roxy Theatre in New York City, further tying the fragrance to a bygone era of glamour. The concept behind the packaging was to convey that the perfume was a scent "with a past... for the future," a perfect reflection of Gigolo’s modern yet romantically vintage identity.

The application method of Gigolo was also carefully considered, with all bottles designed as atomizers. This was an essential feature, according to Madame Jacqueline Goddet, the promotional consultant for Les Parfums Jean-Pierre Borg. She emphasized that applying perfume with one’s fingers could contaminate the fragrance by introducing the wearer’s natural skin oils into the bottle. In contrast, an aerosol spray preserved the purity of the scent while also making application more economical, as less product was needed to achieve the desired effect.

Gigolo was prominently displayed in luxury department stores such as I. Magnin, Marshall Field, Kauffmann’s, Bergdorf Goodman, B. Altman, and Bloomingdale’s. At these high-end retailers, oversized bottle caps were used as eye-catching factices at the fragrance counters, further emphasizing the brand’s bold and distinctive presence. The pricing reflected its prestige: the parfum retailed at $12.50 for a quarter-ounce, $25 for a half-ounce, and $45 for a one-ounce splash bottle or a one-ounce Parfum Aerosol Spray. The Eau de Toilette was priced at $8 for a two-ounce aerosol spray, $12.50 for a four-ounce splash, and $18 for a six-ounce splash. The aerosol versions of both the perfume and the Eau de Toilette were highly concentrated, with just a few sprays providing long-lasting wear.

To complement the perfume, Gigolo also offered a range of luxurious bath and body products. The dusting powder and a set of three soap cakes each retailed for $6.50, while bath oil was available in two sizes at $7.50 and $15. Additionally, a solid perfume was presented in a stylish faux tortoiseshell compact, which was valued at $10 but was offered as a gift with any Gigolo purchase. This thoughtful array of ancillary products allowed consumers to fully immerse themselves in the scent, layering the fragrance for a richer and longer-lasting experience.

Though Gigolo was ultimately discontinued around 1975, it left an indelible mark as a fragrance ahead of its time—a perfume that challenged conventions, explored new olfactory dimensions, and captured the spirit of an era. Its intricate balance of green freshness, floral brightness, and deep patchouli sensuality made it a perfume that defied expectations, one that remained, as its creators intended, an olfactory adventure into the unknown.

 

Despite its luxurious packaging and strategic placement in high-end department stores, Gigolo appears to have been a commercial failure. By the late 1970s, unsold inventory remained, indicating that the fragrance had not gained the traction its creators had anticipated. Rather than letting the remaining stock go to waste, the owners of the Mary Chess perfume company acquired the last of the old store stock sometime between 1976 and 1979. In an effort to repurpose and rebrand the fragrance, they reintroduced it under a new name: Gigolo, for the Man by Mary Chess.

Rather than investing in a complete redesign, the new owners simply relabeled the existing packaging. The original Art Deco-inspired silver and plexiglass boxes, as well as the crystal and stainless steel bottles, remained entirely unchanged. Instead of a fresh marketing approach, the revised packaging appeared as if a new label had merely been placed over the old one—an indication that the rebranding effort was more about clearing out surplus inventory than launching a carefully curated new product. This last attempt to revive Gigolo under a different name suggests that the fragrance struggled to find its intended audience and ultimately faded into obscurity. 

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