Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan c1974

Launched in 1974, Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan was a fragrance designed to evoke the ancient and the sacred, drawing inspiration from two of the most storied and revered resins in human history. The name itself conjures images of ancient rituals, desert caravans carrying precious cargo, and the heady aroma of sacred incense curling through the air of temples and palaces. These resins—frankincense and myrrh—have been treasured for millennia for their ceremonial, medicinal, and aromatic properties. The word frankincense originates from the Old French franc encens, meaning "high-quality incense," while myrrh comes from the Semitic root mrr, meaning "bitter," reflecting its resinous, slightly smoky depth. Both have roots in the ancient world, particularly in regions such as Oman, Yemen, Somalia, and Ethiopia, where they were once more valuable than gold.

By choosing this name, Jovan tapped into a sense of history, mysticism, and sensuality, offering a fragrance that was not merely a perfume but an experience—one that transported the wearer to an era of opulence and reverence. The imagery associated with frankincense and myrrh is deeply evocative: the flickering glow of candlelit altars, the air thick with the scent of burning resins, the grandeur of lost empires, and the whispered incantations of ancient priests. There is a richness to these materials, an association with the divine, with spirituality, with luxury. In perfumery, their warm, balsamic, and slightly spicy nature creates a lingering, enveloping aura that feels both exotic and deeply comforting.

The 1970s was a decade of contrasts and cultural shifts. The bohemian, nature-loving ethos of the late 1960s had evolved, giving way to a fascination with mysticism, the occult, and Eastern influences. People were exploring spirituality in new ways, from the rise of yoga and transcendental meditation to a renewed interest in astrology and esoteric philosophies. Fashion reflected this shift as well—flowing maxi dresses, embroidered kaftans, rich velvets, and exotic prints became popular, reflecting an appreciation for ancient and faraway cultures. This period also marked a turn toward bolder, more opulent perfumes, as the light and airy scents of the 1960s were gradually replaced by richer, more complex compositions.

Frankincense and Myrrh fit seamlessly into this evolving olfactory landscape. At a time when perfumery was shifting from fresh, natural scents to deeper, more sensual creations, Jovan’s fragrance stood out as both a nod to the past and a bold step forward. While aldehydic florals and chypres remained popular, orientals were beginning to surge in prominence, offering an intoxicating alternative with their warmth and longevity.

Nancy Hayden, Jovan’s fragrance and new products director, had already foreseen this shift. In 1973, she remarked on the return of "heady oriental and Eastern scents," and Frankincense and Myrrh was a direct response to that forecast. Unlike the lighter florals and citrus-heavy compositions that had been dominant in the previous decade, this fragrance embraced depth and mystery.

From the very first breath, Frankincense and Myrrh unfolds like the opening of an ancient scroll. The aldehydic top notes create an immediate sense of brightness, almost like the spark of a flame igniting a resinous incense burner. This sharp, effervescent introduction quickly gives way to the heart—a rich tapestry of sweet and spicy florals that bloom with an air of mystery. Imagine the heady scent of jasmine and rose infused with a subtle spiced warmth, as if petals had been dusted with cinnamon and clove.

As the fragrance settles, the true magic emerges in the base. Here, the namesake ingredients, frankincense and myrrh, come to life in full force. The smoky, balsamic richness of frankincense intertwines with the darker, slightly bitter depth of myrrh, creating a mesmerizing interplay of warmth and shadow. These resins are further enhanced by the grounding presence of woods, amber, and musk, adding a sultry longevity to the fragrance. The result is a scent that lingers on the skin like an ancient secret, inviting those who wear it to revel in its depth and sensuality.

For the women of the 1970s, Frankincense and Myrrh would have offered something distinct—an olfactory escape into a world of mystery and seduction. Unlike the overtly feminine florals that had long been marketed to women, this was a scent that exuded power, confidence, and allure. It was a fragrance for the woman who wanted to stand apart, to embrace a scent that felt timeless yet unconventional. In an era where women were redefining their roles in society, pushing boundaries in careers, politics, and personal expression, Frankincense and Myrrh provided an alternative to traditional femininity. It was exotic yet wearable, sensual yet sophisticated—a perfume that aligned perfectly with the spirit of exploration and transformation that defined the decade.

While the 1970s saw the rise of oriental fragrances, Frankincense and Myrrh was unique in its direct reference to these ancient resins. Many oriental perfumes of the time leaned heavily on vanilla, amber, and spice, but Jovan’s interpretation was more reverent, more rooted in history. This was not merely an oriental-inspired perfume; it was an homage to the very ingredients that had shaped the history of fragrance itself.

In this way, Frankincense and Myrrh was both a product of its time and a scent that transcended trends. It was a fragrance that tapped into the cultural fascination with the exotic and the mystical, offering a scent experience that felt ancient yet utterly modern. Though it may not have become as widely known as some of the other blockbuster perfumes of the decade, it left an indelible mark—one that continues to intrigue fragrance lovers today.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It starts out with an aldehydic top, followed by a sweet and spicy floral heart, resting on a warm, balsamic base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, North American raspberry, Calabrian bergamot, Brazilian rosewood
• Middle notes: Alpine lily of the valley, Egyptian jasmine, Provencal honey, Turkish rose, Florentine orris, Zanzibar carnation
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Ceylon cinnamon, Siamese benzoin, Omani frankincense, Somali myrrh, Tyrolean oakmoss, Tibetan musk

Scent Profile:

The first breath of Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan is like a spark of light in the dark, a luminous aldehydic opening that shimmers with effervescence. These aldehydes create an initial burst—cool, airy, and slightly metallic—like crisp linens warmed by the sun. They lend the fragrance a sense of sophistication, an almost celestial radiance before the deeper elements unfold. Alongside this brightness, a tart North American raspberry emerges, its juicy sweetness softened by a whisper of green, evoking wild berries crushed underfoot in a sunlit forest. Unlike the sugary raspberries of Europe, the North American variety has a tangier, slightly wilder character, making it a perfect counterpoint to the aldehydic shimmer.

The citrusy elegance of Calabrian bergamot weaves through the composition, its golden, sun-drenched zest bringing a sparkling freshness. This particular bergamot, grown in the warm Mediterranean climate of Calabria, is prized for its bright yet smooth aroma, lacking the bitterness found in other citrus varieties. It provides an airy contrast, lifting the top notes with a refined crispness. Meanwhile, Brazilian rosewood adds a subtly spiced, woody depth, its warm, resinous aroma tinged with hints of floral freshness. Once abundant in the Amazon, this wood carries with it the scent of the rainforest—moist earth, aged bark, and the ghostly whisper of exotic blooms.

As the aldehydic brightness softens, the fragrance blooms into its heart—an opulent, intoxicating floral composition suffused with spice and honeyed warmth. The pristine delicacy of Alpine lily of the valley introduces a dewy freshness, its bell-like petals releasing a green, almost watery sweetness. This variety, growing in the cool mountain air, is more ethereal than its lowland counterpart, its scent almost crystalline, like morning mist in a hidden valley. Egyptian jasmine follows, unfolding in rich, creamy waves. The jasmine cultivated in Egypt is renowned for its intoxicating intensity, its night-blooming flowers yielding an aroma that is both narcotic and deeply sensual—sun-warmed, honeyed, with an underlying animalic whisper.

The regal presence of Turkish rose lends the composition a velvety opulence. This variety, cultivated in the famed Isparta region, is among the most coveted in perfumery. Unlike the sharper damask rose, the Turkish variety is lush and full-bodied, exuding a deep, jam-like richness with hints of spice. It melds effortlessly with the golden embrace of Provencal honey, which brings a sunlit sweetness, thick and resinous, tinged with the fragrance of wildflowers and lavender from the rolling hills of southern France. The powdery elegance of Florentine orris—one of perfumery’s most precious materials—adds a cool, velvety softness. This particular orris, harvested in Italy after a painstaking three-year drying process, exudes a nuanced aroma reminiscent of violet petals, warm suede, and the faint, melancholic scent of aged paper.

The floral heart is made more vivid by the fiery spice of Zanzibar carnation, a variety revered for its bold, clove-like intensity. Unlike the mild carnations grown in cooler climates, the Zanzibar bloom is rich, almost peppery, with a smoldering warmth that lingers on the skin like embers in a darkened room. It ties the heart to the deeper mysteries of the base, where the true soul of the fragrance is revealed.

The drydown is a slow, hypnotic descent into warmth, resin, and shadow. Mysore sandalwood, the gold standard of all sandalwoods, lends its sacred presence—smooth, creamy, with a milky sweetness that seems to glow from within. Unlike other varieties, Mysore sandalwood carries a pronounced depth, its soft, woody richness infused with a balsamic, almost caramel-like warmth. Ceylon cinnamon, sourced from Sri Lanka, adds a subtle fire—warmer and more refined than the sharper cassia variety, its scent is nuanced, sweetly spiced, with a whisper of golden earth.

As the warmth deepens, Siamese benzoin unfurls its resinous embrace. Harvested in Thailand, this balsamic treasure exudes a rich vanilla-like warmth, its scent reminiscent of antique wood polished to a high sheen. But it is the ancient resins—Omani frankincense and Somali myrrh—that lend the fragrance its mystical heart. Omani frankincense, considered the finest in the world, carries a clarity and purity unmatched by other varieties. Its scent is airy yet deeply resinous, both lemony and slightly peppered, with a reverent stillness that feels almost sacred. Somali myrrh, darker and more intense, adds a smoky, bittersweet depth, its aroma tinged with a leathery richness and a ghostly hint of decay, like aged parchment from a forgotten library.

Grounding the entire composition is the green, mossy coolness of Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the pristine forests of Austria. Its earthy, almost inky depth adds a chypre-like elegance, a whisper of damp wood and lichen-covered stone. Finally, Tibetan musk, rich and animalic, completes the journey with its primal warmth—soft yet carnal, wrapping the entire composition in a skin-like sensuality that lingers long after the final traces of incense have faded.

In Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan, every note tells a story, every ingredient carries the weight of its origins, and the scent itself feels like an incantation—timeless, mysterious, and utterly entrancing.

Product Line:

Jovan’s Frankincense & Myrrh was offered in two luxurious formats, each designed to enhance the wearer’s experience of this deep, mysterious fragrance. The 3 oz Perfume was the most concentrated form of the scent, offering an opulent and long-lasting application. As a perfume, it delivered a rich, multi-layered experience, allowing the wearer to fully immerse themselves in the warmth of exotic resins, spicy florals, and creamy woods. The high concentration of fragrance oils meant that each drop lingered on the skin, evolving slowly throughout the day. With its intensity and depth, the perfume would have been ideal for evening wear, special occasions, or those who sought a scent with true staying power.

For a lighter yet still indulgent application, the 2 oz Cologne Spray Mist provided a more versatile and wearable option. This format allowed for a more diffused, airy application of the fragrance, making it suitable for daytime use or for those who preferred to layer their scent more generously. While slightly less concentrated than the perfume, the cologne spray still carried the signature richness of Frankincense & Myrrh, with its balsamic, spicy, and resinous depth. The misting spray would have allowed for an effortless application, leaving a delicate veil of fragrance that enveloped the skin and clothing.

Both formats catered to different preferences and occasions, ensuring that Frankincense & Myrrh could be worn in a way that suited the individual’s lifestyle. Whether experienced in its purest, most intense form as a 3 oz Perfume or in the lighter, more refreshing 2 oz Cologne Spray Mist, this fragrance captured the allure of ancient resins and timeless luxury in every bottle.

From its launch in 1974, Jovan’s Frankincense & Myrrh captivated the fragrance world, earning its place as a scent of mystery, history, and sensuality. Advertised as a fragrance that allowed wearers to “make their own history,” this perfume evoked ancient luxury, biblical significance, and exotic allure. The Star-News described it as “one of the most beautiful fragrances of all time,” emphasizing its deep, resinous sensuality and its ability to stir “age-old passions.” The marketing was steeped in mysticism, drawing from the sacred and ceremonial origins of its namesake ingredients, inviting the wearer to “anoint thyself” in its intoxicating warmth.

Cue Magazine recognized the seasonal significance of Frankincense & Myrrh, particularly in connection with Christmas, reinforcing the fragrance’s association with timeless, sacred aromas. Priced at $6 for both a one-third ounce perfume and a two-ounce cologne spray, it was an accessible luxury, offering an exotic, musky alternative to the lighter florals dominating the market. McCall’s took a more dramatic approach, likening the experience of wearing this scent to that of a queen—specifically the Queen of Sheba, a figure synonymous with opulence and allure. This reinforced the perfume’s image as something grand, regal, and unapologetically bold, contrasting it with Max Factor’s Geminesse, a more delicate floral-chypre composition.

By 1975, Mademoiselle featured Frankincense & Myrrh among other prestige perfumes, mentioning it alongside luxury brands like Guerlain, Evyan, and Prince Matchabelli. This positioned Jovan’s creation as a serious contender in the world of fine fragrance, despite its affordability. Over the years, the fragrance continued to be listed among Jovan’s best-selling scents, with Good Housekeeping (1977) highlighting its compact 1/3-ounce perfume as a purse-friendly indulgence, perfect for touch-ups throughout the day.

Even as fragrance trends evolved, Vogue (1978) still considered Frankincense & Myrrh relevant, describing it as a “mysterious” perfume, emphasizing its smoky, resinous depth. K.T. Maclay’s Total Beauty Catalog (1978) reinforced the fragrance’s ancient origins, likening it to the gifts of the Magi, calling it “sultry, almost smoky, deeply provocative.” This description highlighted its lasting appeal—a scent that bridged the past with the present, embodying both spiritual reverence and worldly seduction.

Throughout the 1970s, Frankincense & Myrrh by Jovan stood apart as an exotic, resinous alternative to the powdery aldehydes, green florals, and musky chypres that defined the decade. Its positioning in beauty publications reflected not just a fragrance trend, but a cultural fascination with the mystical, the luxurious, and the sensually profound.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1974, Frankincense & Myrrh by Jovan arrived at a time when perfumery was embracing rich, exotic compositions that evoked history, mysticism, and sensuality. Positioned as a bold and luxurious fragrance, it stood apart from the lighter florals and fresh green scents of the era, offering something deeper, more resinous, and enigmatic. Its inspiration drew from the most sacred and revered aromatic materials in history—frankincense and myrrh—both of which had been used in religious ceremonies, ancient rituals, and royal perfumery for thousands of years.

For over a decade, Frankincense & Myrrh remained a part of Jovan’s fragrance lineup, appealing to those drawn to its warm, balsamic richness and evocative presence. However, by 1985, it had quietly disappeared from production. While the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, its absence from catalogs and advertisements by the mid-1980s suggests that shifting trends in perfumery may have contributed to its decline. As the 1980s progressed, bold aldehydic florals, high-energy citrus blends, and powerhouse chypres dominated the market, and the deep, smoky mystery of Frankincense & Myrrh may have felt out of step with contemporary preferences.

Despite its discontinuation, the fragrance remains a memorable part of Jovan’s history, standing as a testament to the brand’s willingness to explore daring, exotic inspirations. Collectors and fragrance enthusiasts continue to seek out vintage bottles, captivated by its unique composition and the era it represents. Though no longer in production, Frankincense & Myrrh by Jovan endures in memory as a scent that embraced the ancient, the sacred, and the profoundly sensual.

CLICK HERE TO FIND FRANKINCENSE & MYRRH PERFUME BY JOVAN