Eau Cendree by Jacomo c1974

Eau Cendrée by Jacomo, launched in 1974, is a distinctive fragrance that reflected the elegance and trends of its time. Jacomo, a luxury fragrance house, was founded in the 1960s by James Kaplan, an American, and Gérard Courtin, a Frenchman. The brand quickly established itself as a purveyor of refined, avant-garde scents. Known for creating sophisticated fragrances that pushed the boundaries of scent design, Jacomo aimed to capture the essence of modern masculinity in Eau Cendrée.

The name "Eau Cendrée" is French, pronounced "oh sahn-DRAY". Translated, it means "Ash Water" or "Gray Water," with "eau" meaning water and "cendrée" deriving from "cendre," meaning ash. The word evokes images of something cool, muted, and enigmatic—an interplay between freshness and something more grounded, smoky, or earthy. The choice of this name likely suggests a balance between lightness and depth, between clarity and something more introspective. It conjures a sense of refinement and understated elegance, appealing to a man who is both strong and reflective.

The name "Eau Cendrée" could evoke a feeling of subtle power, mystery, and maturity. Men of the 1970s, a time when individuality and personal expression were becoming more prominent, would have likely appreciated this fragrance for its quiet sophistication. In a world transitioning from the bold masculinity of previous decades, where men’s scents were often heavier and more dominant, Eau Cendrée would have struck a more nuanced chord. The title hints at something more reserved yet distinguished—ideal for the man who wanted to stand out not through brashness but through elegance.

In interpreting "Eau Cendrée" in scent, the fragrance begins with a fresh, herbaceous, and spicy top note punctuated with pimento. This burst of green and spice is invigorating, evoking feelings of vitality and crispness. The dry floral, spicy heart, featuring pepper, adds warmth and depth, offering a sharp contrast to the initial freshness. It’s the blend of coolness with fiery spice that gives the fragrance its unique character. Finally, the base of cypress, with its woody and mossy undertones, grounds the scent in a natural, earthy depth. This chypre structure, known for balancing freshness with mossy, woody tones, makes Eau Cendrée both fresh and timeless.

Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan c1974

Launched in 1974, Frankincense and Myrrh by Jovan was a fragrance designed to evoke the ancient and the sacred, drawing inspiration from two of the most storied and revered resins in human history. The name itself conjures images of ancient rituals, desert caravans carrying precious cargo, and the heady aroma of sacred incense curling through the air of temples and palaces. These resins—frankincense and myrrh—have been treasured for millennia for their ceremonial, medicinal, and aromatic properties. The word frankincense originates from the Old French franc encens, meaning "high-quality incense," while myrrh comes from the Semitic root mrr, meaning "bitter," reflecting its resinous, slightly smoky depth. Both have roots in the ancient world, particularly in regions such as Oman, Yemen, Somalia, and Ethiopia, where they were once more valuable than gold.

By choosing this name, Jovan tapped into a sense of history, mysticism, and sensuality, offering a fragrance that was not merely a perfume but an experience—one that transported the wearer to an era of opulence and reverence. The imagery associated with frankincense and myrrh is deeply evocative: the flickering glow of candlelit altars, the air thick with the scent of burning resins, the grandeur of lost empires, and the whispered incantations of ancient priests. There is a richness to these materials, an association with the divine, with spirituality, with luxury. In perfumery, their warm, balsamic, and slightly spicy nature creates a lingering, enveloping aura that feels both exotic and deeply comforting.

Havoc by Mary Quant c1974

Here are some questions from readers that I thought you might enjoy.

Q. "I have a bottle of Havoc perfume that I have been holding on to for any years. I often pop off the top and take in that lovely scent that I so loved back in high school! It evokes such great memories!! I would love to wear that wonderful scent once again. Is it possible to find or duplicate the scent I long for? Please let me know so I can stop searching. My daughter is in London presently and I am thinking of sending her to the Mary Quant shop. Please tell me if this search is futile. Thanks in advance for your efforts!"