Deneuve by Catherine Deneuve: launched in 1986 in association with Parfums Phenix.
Avon Products licensed French actress Catherine Deneuve's name for the scent and introduced it in stores in 1987. Created by Jacques Vermore of Creations Aromatiques.
Avon tested a specially created subsidiary, Avon Marketing Direct, which offered "personal beauty advisers who cater to the total woman." The "advisers" would give customers advice about both fashion and beauty. As full time employees, consultants "will not be in conflict with our representatives." The new distribution scheme aimed at the more affluent market Avon had targeted with a new subsidiary, Parfums Phenix, which will sell a $165-an-ounce perfume named Deneuve, after the French actress, in 1986. Avon first used mail-order magazine advertisements to sell the Deneuve perfume. A year later the pricey fragrance was introduced in 50 stores, by 1988, it was available in 300.
Catherine Deneuve was whisked around the United States in the Avon jet to promote her perfume at the better department stores in the major cities.
The Paris New (Paris, Texas), 1987:
Avon Products licensed French actress Catherine Deneuve's name for the scent and introduced it in stores in 1987. Created by Jacques Vermore of Creations Aromatiques.
Avon tested a specially created subsidiary, Avon Marketing Direct, which offered "personal beauty advisers who cater to the total woman." The "advisers" would give customers advice about both fashion and beauty. As full time employees, consultants "will not be in conflict with our representatives." The new distribution scheme aimed at the more affluent market Avon had targeted with a new subsidiary, Parfums Phenix, which will sell a $165-an-ounce perfume named Deneuve, after the French actress, in 1986. Avon first used mail-order magazine advertisements to sell the Deneuve perfume. A year later the pricey fragrance was introduced in 50 stores, by 1988, it was available in 300.
Catherine Deneuve was whisked around the United States in the Avon jet to promote her perfume at the better department stores in the major cities.
The Paris New (Paris, Texas), 1987:
"In a corner of the Beverly Hills Hotel reception room, Miss Deneuve submitted dutifully to the questions of a reporter. Why a perfume? “Why not? Like all women, perfume is something very personal to me, and something I have been wearing quite young. Given the opportunity to take part in the making of the product, it was something I found very exciting,” she said. “Because perfume is so personal, not all women will like mine. It is very romantic because it is very floral, very open in a way. I wanted something you could wear in the day and in the night, something you could use for a long time and not feel tired of it.”
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a green top, followed by a green floral heart, resting on a woody, powdery base.
- Top notes: black currant buds, lemon, mandarin, angelica, galbanum, bergamot, aldehydes, green notes, neroli, basil
- Middle notes: orange blossom, marigold, orris, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang-ylang, rose, lily-of-the-valley, violet
- Base notes: heliotrope, myrrh, vetiver, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, Virginia cedar, civet
Bottle:
Parfums Phenix chose Verreries Brosse to create the crystal bottle housing its Deneuve perfume. Designed by Serge Mansau in 1985, the bottle is made of heavy, hand-blown, hand-cut crystal, with gold-plated shoulders, a thin neck, and a stopper in the shape of an abstract bow. The shape of the bottle and stopper is long and narrow. The bottles are made in France by three firms: Pochet et du Courval, Saint Gobain Desjonqueres and Verreries Brosse.Ancillary Products:
In 1987, Phenix Parfums introduced an ancillary line, Le Bain Deneuve. The bath line originally had only three products: a moisturizing bath and shower gelee, body lotion and glistening dusting powder and all shared the same three point formula of silk proteins for silkiness, collagen for suppleness and elasticity, and Vitamin E to impart healing. All products contain high fragrance concentrations of the floral, semi-oriental Deneuve fragrance.Later perfumed soap (Savons Parfumes), body cream, deodorant, and talcum powder (Talc Parfume) were added to the lineup. In store clinics were planned to show customers how to prolong the scent by layering the various products. A mini coffret of product samples, including a half ounce packet of each bath product and a matchbook sample of the EDT, were given out to customers.
Fate of the Fragrance:
The introduction of Catherine Deneuve fragrance won the Fragrance Foundation's "Most Successful Launch" (FiFi) award in 1987.
- Deneuve launched by Parfums Phenix in 1986.
- Parfums Stern was bought by Avon in 1987, which marketed the fragrance.
- Parfums Stern bought by Safrep (Sanofi) in 1990.
Avon Products Inc., was under pressure to merge or be taken over, and sold its Oscar de la Renta, Cher, Perry Ellis and Deneuve fragrance brands for $210 million. The company said the smaller retail subsidiary Parfums Stern, that marketed the fragrances would be sold in a cash transaction to Safrep, an affiliate of Sanofi SA of France.
The Parfums Stern fragrances was added to Sanofi's brands, including Nina Ricci and Stendhal.
Avon, said that the deal was scheduled to close Jan. 3, 1990 and proceeds would be used to reduce debt. Avon had previously said its debt totaled $1 billion at mid-1989.
Because of this, you will see either Parfums Phenix or Parfums Stern on the boxes or packaging, the Parfums Phenix being the very first run, then Parfums Stern, however, there is no difference in the formulas.
The fragrance suffered from a poor distribution network in the United States and a lack of advertising killed it in Europe, as a result, Deneuve was discontinued around 1994. Catherine Deneuve said to Elle Magazine in 1994, "I've liked working for this fragrance. But today I don't feel it. Actors ad perfume are an impossible match."
Business Week, 1989:
"Early results were disappointing — its first fragrance, Deneuve, flopped."
Forbes, 1990:
"The flops notwithstanding, fragrance companies will continue to try to translate celebrity images into pleasing aromas. ... Avon Products licensed French actress Catherine Deneuve's name for the scent and introduced it in stores in 1987. The product hasn't taken off. Avon should have known better. Despite her stunning beauty and acting abilities, Deneuve's image apparently was not right for a perfume. Chesebrough-Pond's tested the idea of a Deneuve fragrance several years ago and rejected it, on the grounds that Deneuve's icy beauty came across to many women as just plain chilly. Avon has never made a dime on Deneueve, proving Chesebrough's market researchers right."
Long Lost Perfumes' Cannes fragrance was available in eau de toilette:
- Top notes: mandarin, lemon, marigold, basil, angelica seeds, aldehydes
- Middle notes: jasmine, violet, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, heliotrope
- Base notes: musk, myrrh, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin
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