Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso, introduced in 1984 in collaboration with L’Oreal, is also affectionately recognized as 'Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum.' Crafted by the talented nose of Francis Bocris from Creations Aromatiques, this exquisite fragrance was meticulously honed over two years, embodying timeless elegance and sophistication.
Paloma Picasso, the daughter of Pablo Picasso and Francoise Gilot, was raised in a milieu suffused with culture, art, and beauty. Reflecting on her upbringing, she once remarked in a 1985 interview, "Thankfully, I didn't pursue art; I might have found it stifling under the shadow of my father's legacy. My mother foresaw the potential pitfalls, and I believe she was right. I yearned to forge my own path. Through my endeavors, I endeavor to showcase my distinct style. The essence of my creativity transcends mere drawing."
Crafting her signature perfume was a meticulous process spanning nearly two years. Paloma Picasso's dedication to perfection shone through as she remarked, "Every aspect, I handle personally, and excellence demands time. I aspired for a fragrance that exuded glamour, yet navigating the realm of perfumery felt akin to a blind journey. Perfume, unlike my familiar visual realm, presented an entirely different challenge."
Her connection to the world of fragrance is deeply ingrained in her lineage. Paloma Picasso's familial ties to perfumery trace back to her grandfather, chemist Emile Gilot, who established Parfums Gilot in Paris. This esteemed company specialized in the production of soaps and fragrances, later collaborating with Yardley. Reflecting on her memories, Paloma shared in the 1985 interview, "I recall fondly sitting by my Grandfather Gilot's side as he showcased his perfumes in department stores. His world, with its tangible scents and bustling factory, felt more intimate to me than that of Picasso, despite his towering presence."
A Fragrance of Glamour:
Picasso, alongside her playwright husband, Rafael Lopez-Sanchez, embarked on a year-long olfactory odyssey, meticulously sampling various scents before ultimately selecting Warner Cosmetics. Reflecting on the process, Picasso shared, "Venturing into this domain, you often encounter resistance to your vision, a prevailing 'We know better' mentality. It's a challenge to uphold one's creative autonomy."
Paloma Picasso sought a fragrance that resonated with femininity, a scent with a softer, more rounded character, where the base notes gracefully ascend to the surface. Diverging from the boldness of perfumes prevalent in the 1980s like Giorgio and Poison, she envisioned a more subdued allure, eschewing brashness for a refined elegance. After undergoing six iterations, she ultimately reverted to the fifth rendition. Describing her creation, Paloma characterized it as neither delicate nor demure but rather sophisticated and flamboyant, a true reflection of her own refined taste and artistic fervor. The fragrance was discreetly referred to by the evocative codename "Daphne 19."
The fragrance's unveiling took place amidst the enchanting backdrop of Paris.
The fragrance garnered notable success, clinching two coveted Fragrance Foundation FiFi awards. Picasso proudly asserted, "It's a well-deserved recognition."
So what does it smell like? Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It opens with is rich floral essential oils, including jasmine, rose de mai and Bulgarian rose, lightly spiced, then descends into a heart of precious woods, orris, oakmoss, sandalwood, with a delicate, ambery, musky base.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: Indonesian ambrette, green notes, Calabrian bergamot, Brazilian rosewood, Sicilian lemon, Italian neroli, Moroccan cilantro, aldehydes, Hungarian angelica and Indian carnation
- Middle notes: Russian coriander, Tuscan iris, methyl ionone, Zanzibar clove, Mexican tuberose, Bourbon geranium, Alpine lily of the valley, Lyral, hydroxycitronellal, Florentine orris, Spanish mimosa, Grasse rose de mai, Bulgarian rose, Madagascan ylang ylang, Egyptian jasmine, Hedione and Dutch hyacinth
- Base notes: Lebanese cedar, Siamese benzoin, ambergris, Maltese labdanum, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Seychelles patchouli, Mysore sandalwood, Java vetiver, Virginian tobacco, Canadian castoreum, Ethiopian civet, Tonkin musk, Vertofix
Press materials describe it as "The fragrance is a multi-faceted blend of lush warmed with exotic woods and intoxicating amber. Its top notes are a blend of bright crisp citrus notes and rich green freshness. It then blooms with the middle notes of jasmine and rose complemented by exotic spices. Its drydown notes are warmed by rich woody notes."
Scent Profile:
Paloma Picasso by Paloma Picasso opens with a vivid burst of bright, invigorating notes that immediately captivate the senses. The fragrance greets you with the warm, almost animalic richness of Indonesian ambrette—a musk-like, slightly floral essence that evokes the exotic, lush landscapes of Indonesia. It’s a soft, sensual note, known for its muskiness, which blends seamlessly with green notes that evoke the freshness of nature. Imagine the cool, leafy scent of freshly cut grass, crisp and rejuvenating, yet somehow balancing the depth of the ambrette with a breath of air that feels light and uplifting.
The Calabrian bergamot, grown in the sunny, fertile soil of southern Italy, contributes a citrusy brightness that dances on the skin with a slightly bitter, refreshing edge. The freshness of Sicilian lemon, with its zesty, tangy aroma, adds a burst of citrusy lightness, while the Italian neroli provides a lush, honeyed floral note with subtle green undertones, evoking the scent of orange blossoms under the warm Mediterranean sun. Moroccan cilantro is an unexpected touch, adding a slightly spicy, citrusy herbaceousness, which infuses the opening with an intriguing, aromatic sharpness. Aldehydes bring their signature sparkling brightness, contributing a fresh, soapy, slightly metallic sheen that adds sophistication and effervescence to the fragrance's top.
As the top notes fade, Paloma Picasso begins to reveal its heart—a richly complex bouquet of florals and spices that create an opulent, captivating experience. The Russian coriander adds a hint of spice, warm and slightly woody, its sweet, aromatic character subtly interwoven with the other floral notes, contributing an aromatic warmth. Tuscan iris—with its soft, powdery, and almost buttery character—adds an elegant dryness that is reminiscent of fine Florentine orris, a highly prized variety of iris from Italy, known for its powdery elegance and sophisticated earthiness. The inclusion of methyl ionone, a synthetic compound derived from orris root, heightens this powdery aspect, adding a smooth, velvety layer to the floral heart.
Zanzibar clove introduces a spicy warmth, its deep, almost sweet heat accentuating the richness of the floral bouquet while bringing an exotic, fiery edge. Mexican tuberose contributes an intense, creamy, heady sweetness, wrapping the other florals in its opulent, almost waxy richness, creating an intoxicating, enveloping floral aura. Bourbon geranium introduces a green, slightly rose-like scent that adds freshness and balance to the heart. Alpine lily of the valley imparts a cool, dewy, and delicate floral note, its crisp, light freshness lifting the weight of the other heavy florals. Lyral and hydroxycitronellal are synthetic components that enhance the fresh, floral heart, with Lyral adding a soft, powdery, and floral dimension reminiscent of lily of the valley and hydroxycitronellal giving a bright, slightly green, citrusy lift, which brightens the richness of the flowers.
The rose de mai, harvested from the Grasse region of France, one of the most prestigious areas for perfume cultivation, infuses the fragrance with a soft, velvety richness that is delicate yet complex, offering honeyed, almost fruity nuances that enrich the floral bouquet. The Bulgarian rose, another iconic rose variety, imparts a deep, slightly spicy floral scent, renowned for its richness and depth. Its sensuality, paired with the Madagascan ylang-ylang, known for its rich, tropical sweetness, and Egyptian jasmine, adds an intoxicating, almost narcotic floral richness that sways with exotic allure. Hedione, a synthetic jasmine-like molecule, enhances the jasmine and ylang-ylang by adding a bright, almost transparent quality, contributing a radiant, airily floral character to the heart. Dutch hyacinth adds a fresh, sweet, and slightly green floral note, enhancing the freshness of the bouquet while tying the florals together in a symphony of delicate, sweet scents.
As the fragrance transitions into its base, it deepens with a woody, earthy richness that gives Paloma Picasso its signature chypre structure. Lebanese cedar provides a clean, woody base with a dry, almost resinous edge, evoking the majestic, ancient trees of the Lebanese mountains. The Siamese benzoin lends a balsamic sweetness, adding a soft, amber-like warmth that enhances the fragrance's depth and complexity. Ambergris, with its musky, slightly salty, and animalic character, brings a sensual richness to the base, lingering on the skin like a warm, mysterious trace. The inclusion of Maltese labdanum—a resinous substance from the Mediterranean region—imparts a leathery, resinous warmth, deepening the fragrance with its smoky, amber-like richness.
Yugoslavian oakmoss brings an earthy, mossy depth that is both woody and green, contributing to the fragrance’s chypre quality with its earthy, damp richness. Seychelles patchouli introduces a slightly sweet, earthy, and woody note that enhances the base with its warmth and sensuality, while Mysore sandalwood, famed for its creamy, rich, and velvety woodiness, adds a soft, luxurious depth. Java vetiver offers an earthy, smoky richness, deepening the base with its complex woody, smoky character, while Virginian tobacco contributes a dry, slightly leathery warmth that adds a smoky edge to the scent.
The Canadian castoreum enhances the sensuality of the base, offering a musky, slightly animalic quality that deepens the fragrance's complexity and adds an almost wild, untamed edge. Ethiopian civet further enriches the base with its animalic, musky undertones, giving the fragrance a primal warmth, while Tonkin musk adds a soft, powdery warmth, enhancing the smoothness and lasting power of the scent. Finally, Vertofix, a synthetic fixative, helps to stabilize the fragrance, allowing the other ingredients to evolve and last longer on the skin, ensuring that the complex interplay of florals, woods, and musk lingers throughout the day.
In Paloma Picasso, the floral chypre structure is perfectly balanced by the intricate blend of rich florals, warm spices, precious woods, and sensual musks. The complex layers of ingredients work together to create a fragrance that feels both elegant and bold, with the freshness of the top notes giving way to an opulent, spicy floral heart, and resting on a base of deep, earthy woods and animalic sensuality. The combination of natural richness and synthetic enhancements allows each note to shine while adding depth, complexity, and lasting power to this timeless scent.
Bottles:
Paloma dedicated a significant portion of her creative energy to crafting not just the scent, but the entire sensory experience surrounding her perfume. From the striking, glossy black and Florentine red packaging, evocative of the Art Deco era, to the meticulously designed bottle, every detail was infused with her vision.
The bottle itself, a true masterpiece of craftsmanship, was conceived to echo the elegance of her jewelry line while forging a tangible link between her two artistic pursuits. "When I first did drawings, it just looked like a piece of jewelry." As she mused, "I envisioned something classical, a fusion of the timeless allure of jewelry with the essence of perfume."
Her initial sketches resembled miniature treasures, akin to precious jewels. Yet, through countless revisions and refinements, the final design emerged—a crystal bottle, meticulously crafted to frame and enhance the fragrance within. In her own words, "The bottle is very special. It's quite a masterpiece of craftmanship.What we ended up with the crystal bottle forming the frame, the scent itself became the jewel, ensconced within a vessel of crystalline beauty."
The genesis of the perfume bottle's design traces back to a whimsical source—an oversized pair of donut earrings crafted by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co. These playful adornments served as the inspiration for the bottle's distinctive form—a blown glass globe encircled by a frosted glass ring, evoking a sense of timeless elegance with a hint of whimsy.
Collaborating closely with Bernard Kotyuk, the renowned designer, Paloma Picasso brought her vision to life, culminating in the creation of the Art Deco-inspired parfum flacon. Crafted in France by Verrières Brosse, renowned for their exquisite glasswork, the bottle became a testament to meticulous craftsmanship and artistic ingenuity.
By 1990, the bottle's design, known as the eclipse, had garnered acclaim, earning accolades and awards for its innovative aesthetic and timeless appeal. Presented in Paloma's beloved hues of striking Florentine red and bold black packaging, the bottle exuded sophistication and allure.
Available in three sizes—1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz—the bottle offered a luxurious experience, inviting individuals to indulge in the essence of Paloma Picasso's artistry.
The Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette bottles were designed as striking black ovals with a clear glass center, creating a bold and elegant aesthetic. Similarly, the miniature bottles for the parfum mirrored this design in circular shapes, available in both black and white plastic options.
In the late 1990s, the bottle design underwent a subtle transformation. Instead of black plastic accents, the bottles featured gilded trim, adding a touch of luxury and refinement. Additionally, the glass took on a frosted finish, imparting a sense of sophistication and understated glamour to the packaging.
Retail:
The fragrance line boasted an array of exquisite products, including:
- Parfum (1984)
- Eau de Parfum
- Eau de Toilette (1984)
- Body Powder (1984)
- Deodorant Spray
- Perfumed Silkening Body Lotion (1992)
- Perfumed Golden Body Powder (1992)
- Translucent Powder Compact (1992)
- Purse Spray in its own leather pouch (1992)
This diverse range ensured that individuals could experience the allure of the fragrance in various forms, from the rich intensity of the parfum to the subtle elegance of the body lotion and powder compacts.
Upon its debut in 1984, the one ounce bottle of parfum was priced at $160. The pricing could be attributed to several factors:
- Quality of Ingredients: Perfumes, especially those of high quality, often contain expensive and rare ingredients sourced from around the world. The cost of these raw materials influences the overall pricing of the fragrance.
- Craftsmanship: The intricate design of the bottle, coupled with the attention to detail in its production, involves skilled craftsmanship and meticulous handwork. This level of artistry adds to the cost of manufacturing.
- Brand Prestige: Paloma Picasso, being a renowned artist and a prominent figure in the fashion and fragrance industry, brings a level of prestige and exclusivity to her brand. Consumers are often willing to pay a premium for products associated with well-known and respected names.
- Limited Editions: Perfume houses often release limited edition or specialty bottles, which are priced higher due to their rarity and collectible nature. These exclusive editions can command premium prices from collectors and enthusiasts.
- Marketing and Distribution: The costs associated with marketing campaigns and distribution channels also impact the pricing of the perfume. High-end fragrances often invest heavily in advertising and promotion to create a luxurious brand image, which is reflected in the product's price.
Considering these factors, the $160 price tag for a one ounce bottle of Paloma Picasso's parfum in 1984 reflects the quality, craftsmanship, brand prestige, and market positioning of the fragrance.
The remarkable success of the fragrance led to a significant change in its pricing strategy. By 1990, the demand for the perfume had surged to such an extent that even a quarter ounce of the parfum was priced at $175, reflecting a notable evolution in the fragrance's pricing trajectory. The increase in price can be attributed to several factors:
- Inflation: Over the span of six years, inflation can cause the prices of goods and services to rise. The general increase in the cost of living and production expenses could have contributed to the higher price of the perfume.
- Rarity and Exclusivity: It's possible that the quarter ounce bottle of parfum became a more exclusive or limited edition offering by 1990. Limited availability and increased demand for a smaller volume of a highly sought-after product can lead to higher prices.
- Perceived Value: As the brand gained more recognition and prestige over time, consumers may have been willing to pay a premium for Paloma Picasso's signature scent. The perceived value of the fragrance as a luxury item could have influenced its pricing strategy.
- Enhanced Formulation: It's also possible that the formulation of the parfum was refined or enhanced between 1984 and 1990, incorporating more expensive or rare ingredients. These improvements in quality could justify the higher price point.
Overall, a combination of factors such as inflation, rarity, perceived value, and formulation enhancements likely contributed to the considerable increase in price for the quarter ounce bottle of parfum by 1990. Considering these factors, the $175 price tag for a quarter ounce bottle in 1990 and the $160 price for a one-ounce bottle in 1984 reflect the quality, craftsmanship, and brand prestige associated with Paloma Picasso's fragrance line.
Limited Edition Bottles:
Planete de Parfum Presentation (1994):
Introducing the enchanting limited edition from 1994: Planete de Parfum by Paloma Picasso. This exquisite creation features a spherical bottle adorned with a gilded cap, delicately resting on a scrolled pedestal with three feet, evoking an aura of timeless elegance. Encapsulating the allure of Paloma Picasso's scent, each bottle holds 1/2 oz Parfum, making it a precious addition to any fragrance collection. With only 5000 examples crafted, this collector's item promises exclusivity and sophistication.
As celebrated in HAPPI magazine in 1994, "Cosmair unveils Planete de Parfum, a mesmerizing sphere housing the essence of Paloma Picasso's scent, designed especially for the holiday season."
HAPPI, 1994:
"Especially for the holiday season, Cosmair offers Planete de Parfum, a sphere containing Paloma Picasso's scent."
Amphore de Parfum (1993):
Introducing the exquisite limited edition from 1993: the "Amphore de Parfum" by Paloma Picasso. This captivating creation features a frosted glass amphora bottle, exuding an aura of delicate beauty and refinement. Nestled within a scrolled pedestal adorned with three feet, the amphora is presented as a true work of art, evoking a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication.
Crafted to hold 1/2 oz Parfum, each bottle is a precious treasure, offering a unique olfactory experience. With its intricate design and limited availability, the "Amphore de Parfum" promises to be a coveted addition to any fragrance collection, epitomizing the essence of luxury and exclusivity.
Soleil D'or Presentation (2000):
Introducing Soleil d'Or. With the dawn of the new millennium in 2000, Paloma Picasso envisioned a tribute to her inaugural fragrance, a collector's bottle as precious as a jewel and as rare as a masterpiece. Drawing inspiration from the iconic design of the original perfume bottle, she embarked on a journey to reimagine its essence, infusing it with a renewed sense of elegance and sophistication. Limited to a mere 1700 pieces worldwide, each 15ml Paloma Picasso perfume is meticulously crafted and individually numbered by hand, ensuring its status as a treasured objet d'art for discerning enthusiasts around the globe. Behold, a testament to opulence and allure: the bottle, crafted from lustrous gold-toned heavy metal, envelops a radiant red glass vessel, creating a captivating fusion of elegance and sophistication.
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Constellation D'Or:
Paloma Picasso's limited edition "Constellation d'Or" features a 30 ml (1.0 fl oz) size, encased in a captivating gold painted glass bottle adorned with signs of the zodiac on the front. At the center gleams a star embellished with a striking red cabochon jewel. Approximating 9 cms in height and 7 cms in width, this exquisite piece is a testament to both elegance and sophistication. A limited edition of only 2000 examples.
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Constellation:
Introducing the Constellation limited edition 1oz Eau de Parfum, housed in a frosted glass spray bottle that echoes the captivating design of the Constellation d'Or.La Reine:
Galet de Parfum:
limited edition.
Miroir de Parfum:
The eclipse bottle has a round mirror in the center surrounded by the name Paloma Picasso in gold tone filigree letters, and contains 30ml of parfum, presented in a black cardboard box.
Goldtone Brooches:
holding 1/8 oz mini Eau de Parfum bottle from 1998.
Solid Perfume Pendant:
on satin neck cord.
Paloma Picasso Eau de Toilette was launched by Parfums Paloma Picasso in 1996, this sibling of the original Paloma Picasso fragrance 'Mon Parfum' is a lighter version of its parent, with the woody-spicy elements subdued, leaving the chypre, floral and fruity notes more apparent with some new notes added which include lily of the valley, apricot and osmanthus. The bottle follows the style of the parent bottle.
Warner Cosmetics produced cosmetics and fragrances under the brand names of designers Ralph Lauren (Lauren, Chaps, and Polo), Gloria Vanderbilt (Vanderbilt) and Paloma Picasso (Paloma Picasso). In 1984, Nestle took over Warner Cosmetics of the United States on behalf of the American subsidiary of L'Oreal, Cosmair, thereby acquiring for the group the prestigious names of Ralph Lauren, Paloma Picasso, and Gloria Vanderbilt. At this stage, however, L'Oreal was only interested in the perfumes and cosmetics divisions of the designer brands.
Around 1987, a subsidiary the Designer Fragrance Division, was created to handle the following lines: Polo and Lauren of Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani, Paloma Picasso, Lou Lou and Anais Anais by Cacharel and Drakkar Noir by Guy Laroche.
In 2002, the Luxury Products Division markets prestige brands with a global reach through selective distribution: Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Helena Rubinstein, Cacharel, Guy Laroche, Paloma Picasso, Lanvin and Kiehl's.
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