Bijan for Women by Bijan c1986

Bijan by Bijan, the eponymous fragrance from the Iranian-American designer Bijan Pakzad, was launched in 1986 and introduced to the U.S. market in the spring of 1987. Developed in collaboration with Peter Bohm, this luxurious perfume reflected Bijan's signature style—opulence, exclusivity, and an uncompromising dedication to quality. The name "Bijan by Bijan" reinforces the designer's personal brand, emphasizing that the fragrance is a direct extension of his aesthetic and vision. The name "Bijan" (بیژن) is of Persian origin, traditionally used as a male given name. It is pronounced bee-ZHAHN and carries connotations of nobility, heroism, and romanticism, rooted in Persian literature and mythology. In this context, the fragrance name evokes an air of exoticism, refinement, and unmistakable identity, making a bold statement in the competitive world of luxury perfumery.

The mid-1980s were defined by excess, affluence, and a sense of grandeur. This period, often referred to as the Gilded Age of the Eighties, was a time of power dressing, high glamour, and a booming luxury market. Fashion was bold—women embraced strong silhouettes with padded shoulders, cinched waists, and lavish embellishments, mirroring their increasing presence in corporate and social spheres. The fragrance industry was dominated by powerhouse scents—intense, statement-making compositions designed to leave a lasting impression. Women of this era sought fragrances that exuded confidence, femininity, and extravagance. A perfume called "Bijan by Bijan" would have been perceived as an ultra-luxurious, exclusive signature scent—perfect for the woman who wanted to be remembered.

The development of Bijan for Women reportedly took two and a half years, an indication of the meticulous craftsmanship involved. Classified as a floral oriental, or "floriental," the fragrance was described in press materials as being "much more floral than oriental." Its composition of 173 rare and precious ingredients from around the world was a testament to its richness and depth. The opening was lush and exotic, featuring ylang-ylang, narcissus, and orange blossom, which transitioned into a full-bodied heart of Persian jasmine, lily of the valley, and Bulgarian rose. The fragrance settled into an opulent base of patchouli, Moroccan oakmoss, and Mysore sandalwood, grounding the scent with a sensual, enduring warmth.

In the context of the perfume trends of the time, Bijan for Women was both in line with and distinct from its contemporaries. The 1980s saw a rise in bold, heavy fragrances such as Yves Saint Laurent's Opium (1977), Giorgio Beverly Hills (1981), and Christian Dior's Poison (1985), all of which embraced rich oriental compositions with floral and spicy elements. However, Bijan set itself apart with its hyper-luxurious positioning, intricate formulation, and its distinctly Persian influence, lending an air of exoticism and sophistication. It was a fragrance designed not for the understated but for those who wanted to make a grand, unforgettable entrance.

As a scent, Bijan by Bijan embodied the extravagance of the era—decadent, commanding, and unapologetically opulent. It was the olfactory equivalent of the gilded, chandelier-adorned boutiques and lavish lifestyle that the designer himself championed.

Launch:

To introduce Bijan by Bijan to the world, designer Bijan Pakzad orchestrated a lavish $20 million advertising campaign—an enormous investment that reflected both his confidence in the fragrance and his commitment to luxury branding. Eschewing contemporary trends in flashy, mass-market perfume advertising, Bijan opted for a classical approach, emphasizing refinement, exclusivity, and timeless elegance. His advertising was meticulously curated, ensuring that every visual and message aligned with his brand's ethos of unparalleled quality and sophistication.

Bijan personally supervised the campaign, ensuring that his advertisements were not only visually striking but also “witty” and “often startling.” His marketing style was known for its boldness—he was unafraid to break conventions, crafting imagery that captured attention and sparked conversation. This approach mirrored the essence of his fragrance, which was designed to be both memorable and unmistakably luxurious. By infusing an element of playfulness and audacity into his ads, he positioned Bijan by Bijan as a fragrance for the confident, sophisticated woman who sought only the finest things in life.

The collection itself was dedicated to women “who are only satisfied with the very best,” a statement that encapsulated Bijan’s philosophy. His clientele consisted of elite socialites, celebrities, and businesswomen—individuals who viewed perfume not just as a personal accessory but as an expression of status and distinction. Every element of Bijan by Bijan—from its extravagant advertising to its rare ingredients—was designed to appeal to those with refined tastes and a penchant for exclusivity. In an era defined by power dressing, opulent lifestyles, and an unapologetic embrace of wealth, Bijan’s campaign resonated with the aspirations and desires of the modern, high-achieving woman.

Bijan for Women quickly became a celebrated fragrance in the world of luxury perfumery, garnering prestigious industry accolades. In 1988, it was awarded the FiFi Award for Best Women’s Fragrance Packaging, a testament to the design’s elegance and innovation. The fragrance’s striking presentation, with its distinctive circular bottle featuring a hollow center, was both modern and sculptural—instantly recognizable and reflective of Bijan’s signature style. The International Fragrance Foundation further honored Bijan for Women with two additional awards: Fragrance of the Year and Best Presentation, solidifying its status as a standout in an era of bold and opulent scents.

Beyond its critical acclaim, Bijan for Women proved to be a commercial triumph. According to Zy Hafeez, a company spokesperson, the fragrance was the number one seller at Saks Fifth Avenue from 1987 through 1991—a remarkable achievement in a highly competitive luxury market. In 1991, it also topped sales charts at Bullock’s, further demonstrating its widespread appeal. The most popular size, the 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum, was priced accessibly enough to attract a broad consumer base while still maintaining its prestige. This balance of attainability and exclusivity contributed to the fragrance’s enduring success.

The perfume’s popularity was further cemented by its celebrity following. Notable devotees included Maria Shriver, Bo Derek, and Zsa Zsa Gabor, women known for their sophistication, glamour, and commanding presence. Their endorsement of Bijan for Women reinforced the fragrance’s image as a scent for those who exuded confidence and lived life with elegance. At a time when perfumes were not just accessories but statements of identity and lifestyle, Bijan for Women became a defining fragrance of late 1980s luxury and success.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Bijan by Bijan is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. The press materials called Bijan for Women a "floriental, much more floral than oriental. It consists of exotic florals that evolve into a composition spiced with patchouli oakmoss and sandalwood." The formula is made up of "173 rare and precious ingredients from around the world." Top note begins with exotic ylang ylang, narcissus and orange blossom harmonizes with a full-bodied heart note of Persian jasmine, lily of the valley and precious Bulgarian rose. The Oriental composition of patchouli, Moroccan oakmoss and Mysore sandalwood evolve into the final base note."

• Top notes: basil, Italian neroli, Manila ylang ylang, Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian orange blossom, Dutch narcissus
• Middle notes: Provencal honey, French carnation, Indian tuberose, Persian jasmine, Florentine orris, Alpine lily-of-the-valley, Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: Moroccan oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, ambergris, Indonesian patchouli, Tibetan musk, Siamese benzoin, Madagascan vanilla, Peruvian heliotrope, Lebanese cedar

Scent Profile:

Bijan by Bijan unfolds like an opulent tapestry of scent, woven from 173 rare and precious ingredients sourced from the most esteemed regions of the world. Each note contributes to an intricate composition—exotic, lush, and unapologetically luxurious.

At first breath, the fragrance unfurls with a radiant burst of Calabrian bergamot, its sparkling citrus brightness tempered by the herbaceous depth of Mediterranean basil. The addition of Italian neroli imparts a honeyed, slightly metallic shimmer, while Tunisian orange blossom envelops the senses in a luminous, creamy sweetness. This North African variety is renowned for its richness, its blossoms distilled to extract an essence that is both intoxicating and sun-drenched. Dutch narcissus adds a verdant, almost hay-like complexity—its green facets intertwining with the intoxicating creaminess of Manila ylang ylang, sourced from the Philippines, where the humid tropical climate yields a variety known for its intensely lush, banana-like sweetness.

As the top notes settle, the fragrance’s heart blooms in full, lavish decadence. Bulgarian rose, often called the "liquid gold" of perfumery, takes center stage, its velvety petals releasing a honeyed, lemon-kissed richness unlike any other rose in the world. The depth of this floral accord is heightened by Persian jasmine, a variety prized for its narcotic intensity—its heady, sun-warmed aroma reminiscent of night-blooming gardens in Shiraz. 

Indian tuberose adds a carnal, almost buttery white floral richness, while French carnation introduces a spiced, clove-like warmth. Provencal honey glazes the florals with golden sweetness, melding seamlessly with the cool, powdery elegance of Florentine orris, a prized iris root from Tuscany that lends a suede-like, violet-inflected depth. Alpine lily-of-the-valley, with its crystalline freshness, threads through the bouquet like delicate white lace, offering a dewy contrast to the richness of the composition.

The dry down is where Bijan by Bijan fully asserts its oriental identity, wrapping the wearer in a sumptuous, golden aura. Mysore sandalwood, sourced from the now-protected forests of India, is unparalleled in its creamy, woody depth, its milk-like smoothness mingling effortlessly with the inky, balsamic richness of Siamese benzoin. Moroccan oakmoss, with its damp, earthy green undertones, provides a chypre-like grounding effect, while the smoky sensuality of Indonesian patchouli adds an intoxicating depth. 

Venezuelan tonka bean brings a warm, almond-like sweetness, its vanilla-tinged facets enhanced by the exotic, spicy embrace of Madagascan vanilla. The presence of ambergris, one of perfumery’s most elusive and luxurious ingredients, lends an oceanic, skin-like warmth that lingers intimately on the skin. Lebanese cedar, with its dry, slightly smoky character, anchors the composition, while Peruvian heliotrope introduces a final touch of powdery, almond-like softness, rounding out the fragrance with a dreamy, sensual whisper.

With each note meticulously sourced from its most exquisite origin, Bijan by Bijan is not just a fragrance—it is a statement of opulence, a symphony of rare essences blended into a scent that is as commanding as it is elegant. It is a fragrance designed for the woman who appreciates the extraordinary, who desires a perfume as bold and distinctive as she is.

Bottle:

The Bijan by Bijan bottle is as much a masterpiece as the fragrance it contains—a sculptural embodiment of elegance, innovation, and exclusivity. Designed with a striking circular form, punctuated by a hollow center, the bottle’s shape defies convention, appearing more like a modernist objet d’art than a traditional perfume flacon. Manufactured in France by the esteemed glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, a house with centuries of expertise in producing the finest crystal and glassware for the world’s most prestigious fragrance brands, the bottle represents a fusion of artistry and technical prowess.

What set the production of this bottle apart was its unprecedented manufacturing process—one that pushed the boundaries of glassmaking at the time. Crafting a flacon with such a seamless, hollowed-out center required an extraordinary level of precision and skill. Traditional glass molding techniques were not sufficient to achieve this gravity-defying design, leading Pochet et du Courval to develop innovative methods to ensure both structural integrity and aesthetic perfection. The result was a bottle that was not only visually striking but also an engineering feat, capturing light and shadow in a way that made it instantly recognizable.

The design itself speaks to the essence of Bijan by Bijan—bold yet refined, luxurious yet avant-garde. Its circular shape evokes a sense of continuity and infinity, perhaps a nod to timeless beauty and the enduring allure of fine craftsmanship. The smooth, weighty glass feels indulgent in the hand, reinforcing the fragrance’s position as a high-end, aspirational luxury. The choice of Pochet et du Courval as the manufacturer further underscores Bijan’s commitment to excellence, aligning the fragrance with a legacy of quality that dates back to the 17th century.

More than just a vessel, the Bijan by Bijan bottle became an iconic symbol of the brand’s aesthetic—opulent, sophisticated, and unlike anything else on the market. Its design was not only visually memorable but also a testament to Bijan’s philosophy of offering only the best to those who demanded nothing less.

Product Line: 

Bijan for Women was originally launched in the following products:

Parfum:

The Bijan by Bijan parfum collection was designed to embody exclusivity and sophistication, offering women a range of luxurious concentrations housed in exquisite packaging. The most unique offering was the 1/8 oz refillable parfum pendant, elegantly suspended from a silk cord. Retailing for $65, this wearable fragrance accessory blended function with opulence, allowing devotees to carry the essence of Bijan as a statement piece.

For those who sought convenience without sacrificing indulgence, the 0.25 oz parfum purse spray, priced at $75, provided a refined option for touch-ups on the go. This compact format allowed for effortless reapplication, catering to women who desired both practicality and elegance in their fragrance experience.

The 0.25 oz parfum in its traditional bottle reflected a steady increase in prestige and demand. Initially retailing for $90, the price rose to $95 in 1988 and climbed to $105 by 1992, highlighting the growing desirability of this highly concentrated formulation. Meanwhile, the ultimate symbol of luxury within the Bijan parfum line was the 1 oz parfum, a lavish indulgence priced at $300 upon its release. By 1988, the price had risen to $350, reinforcing its status as a fragrance for those who expected only the finest.

Each parfum iteration captured the essence of Bijan by Bijan in its most potent and long-lasting form, appealing to women who appreciated richness, depth, and uncompromising quality. These price adjustments over time reflect not only inflation but also the fragrance’s enduring appeal and status as a benchmark of luxury in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

Eau de Parfum:

The Bijan by Bijan Eau de Parfum range was designed to offer women multiple ways to experience the fragrance, from delicate minis to opulent, large-format presentations. Whether for everyday wear or as a collector’s indulgence, each size and format catered to a different facet of luxury and personal expression.

At the smallest end of the spectrum, the 0.07 oz Eau de Parfum Spray and 0.25 oz Eau de Parfum mini provided an accessible introduction to the fragrance, perfect for travel or as a keepsake. These miniature formats allowed new users to experience the lush floriental composition without committing to a full bottle, while longtime admirers could carry a hint of Bijan wherever they went. Special limited editions added an element of exclusivity—most notably, the 0.25 oz Eau de Parfum, released in 1993, and the 0.22 oz Eau de Parfum Purse Spray, introduced in 1998. These limited releases were highly sought after, particularly among collectors and devoted fans of the brand.

For those who desired a more substantial presence, the Eau de Parfum was available in 0.5 oz, 1 oz, and 1.7 oz spray bottles, offering a balance between portability and lasting elegance. However, it was the 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray that became the most popular size, initially retailing for $55 before rising to $60 in 1988 and $65 in 1992. This increase reflected both inflation and the fragrance’s continued popularity, particularly at high-end retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue. The 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Splash, priced similarly at $55, provided an alternative for those who preferred the ritual of dabbing fragrance onto the skin rather than using a spray.

At the pinnacle of extravagance was the 16 oz Eau de Parfum Splash, available only through special order. Retailing for a staggering $750, this monumental presentation was a true statement of indulgence, catering to those who sought an iconic fragrance in an equally dramatic form. More than just a perfume, it was a collector’s piece, emphasizing Bijan’s philosophy of offering the very best to discerning women who appreciated unparalleled luxury.

Eau de Toilette:

In 1994, Bijan by Bijan expanded its fragrance offerings with the introduction of the 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray, providing a lighter, more wearable interpretation of the original Eau de Parfum. This new concentration retained the opulent floriental character of Bijan, but with a slightly softer sillage, making it an ideal choice for daytime wear or warmer climates. The Eau de Toilette maintained the rich complexity of its floral and oriental notes but with a more radiant and airy composition, allowing for a more effortless and modern application. As the mid-1990s ushered in a shift toward fresher and more versatile fragrances, this launch ensured that Bijan remained relevant, catering to women who still desired a luxurious scent but with a more delicate and contemporary feel.

Bath & Body Collection:

The Bijan by Bijan Bath & Body Collection extended the luxurious essence of the fragrance into a full sensory experience, allowing women to layer the scent through a range of indulgent products. Designed to envelop the skin in the rich, floral-oriental signature of Bijan, the collection provided an opulent self-care ritual that elevated everyday bathing and moisturizing to a sophisticated affair.

The Bath & Shower Gel was available in two sizes: a 1.7 oz travel-friendly bottle and a more generous 8 oz version, which retailed for $35. Infused with the signature fragrance, this gel created a decadent lather, gently cleansing while leaving a subtle veil of scent on the skin. For those who preferred a more traditional bathing experience, Bijan also offered a Perfumed Soap, ensuring a lingering touch of luxury even in the simplest of rituals.

Moisturizing options were abundant, with the Body Lotion available in 1.7 oz, 4.2 oz, and 8 oz sizes—the latter priced at $50. This silky, lightweight formula absorbed effortlessly, leaving the skin delicately perfumed and hydrated. For those seeking deeper nourishment, the Body Cream provided a richer alternative, available in 0.5 oz, 1.7 oz, 2 oz, and a lavish 6 oz jar, which retailed for $75. The Perfumed Powder, likely a fine, silky body dusting powder, enhanced the experience, offering a whisper-light finish that prolonged the scent’s presence. Adding to this was the 3 oz Luminescent Body Powder compact, accompanied by a lambswool puff, lending a glamorous, vintage-inspired touch to the collection.

Extending beyond traditional body care, Bijan introduced a 0.5 oz Face Saver, a lightweight facial moisturizer designed to provide hydration without heaviness, ensuring that the fragrance’s presence could be subtly extended to the skin’s most delicate areas.

In 1996, Bijan adapted to evolving fragrance trends by launching Bijan Light, an alcohol-free 2.5 oz Eau de Toilette Spray. This new formulation offered a softer, more delicate way to wear the scent, catering to women who desired the signature Bijan experience in a fresher, more subtle form. The alcohol-free composition also made it ideal for sensitive skin, reflecting a growing demand for gentle, skin-friendly alternatives in the fragrance industry.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Bijan for Women, which debuted in 1986, has stood the test of time and remains a beloved fragrance in the world of luxury scents. With its captivating floriental composition, the fragrance continues to be produced and distributed by Five Star Fragrances, ensuring that new generations of perfume lovers can experience its rich, exotic blend of florals and oriental spices. The continued production of Bijan for Women speaks to the enduring appeal of the scent, which has maintained its place in the perfume world thanks to its timeless elegance and refinement.

Vintage editions of the fragrance, often sought after by collectors and aficionados, bear the distinctive label "Bijan Fragrances Dist Beverly Hills CA." This marking serves as a reminder of the perfume’s original launch in Beverly Hills, a nod to the brand's association with luxury, high fashion, and the glamour of California’s most exclusive address. These vintage editions are particularly prized, as they offer a glimpse into the fragrance’s early days, encapsulating the scent's history and the golden era of perfume marketing in the late 1980s. Whether in its current form or as a vintage treasure, Bijan for Women continues to evoke the sophistication and allure that defined it from the very beginning.