Noir by Fashion Fair c1973

 Fashion Fair’s perfume Noir, launched in 1973, quickly became a beloved fragrance among its clientele, embodying the brand's luxurious appeal. However, its journey took an unexpected turn when, in 1979, the perfume had to be renamed Ebone due to a trademark infringement suit filed by Parfums Weil. The name "Noir" had already been trademarked by Weil, and this legal conflict forced Fashion Fair to reevaluate their branding. Rather than risk further legal complications, the brand chose to rename the fragrance, demonstrating how even successful products can be reshaped by external factors such as intellectual property rights.

This case highlights how legal disputes can influence the course of a brand, with naming choices being particularly sensitive in industries like perfumery, where names play a significant role in a fragrance's identity. The shift from Noir to Ebone was more than just a legal necessity—it also became a part of the fragrance's evolving story, allowing the brand to maintain its distinctive presence in the market while adhering to the constraints of trademark law. This episode underscores how business decisions are often intertwined with legal frameworks, even in the creative world of perfumery.

Fashion Fair is a cosmetics brand that was founded in 1973 by Eunice W. Johnson, the wife of John H. Johnson, who was the founder of Johnson Publishing Company. The brand was initially created to address the lack of makeup options for women of color. Fashion Fair quickly became one of the leading cosmetics lines catering specifically to African American women, offering a wide range of makeup products including foundations, lipsticks, eyeshadows, and more. The brand gained popularity for its inclusive approach to beauty and its high-quality products tailored to meet the needs of diverse skin tones.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Noir was classified as a dry floral mossy fragrance for women. It begins with a sparkling aldehydic top, followed by a dry, floral heart dominated by lily of the valley and a violet and orris accord of methylionone, resting over a warm, woody, mossy base.

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes
• Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, violet, orris root
• Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, amber, musk, tonka bean, labdanum, patchouli

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter the fragrance of Noir, an immediate rush of sparkling aldehydes fills the air—bright, effervescent, and almost fizzy on the senses. These aldehydes are paired with the tangy, slightly bitter zest of bergamot, a citrus note that cuts through the opening with sharp clarity. Together, they form a lively, fresh introduction, like the crispness of cool air on a dewy morning, sparkling with a hint of something about to unfold.

Soon, the heart of the fragrance emerges, and the floral notes take center stage. Lily of the valley blooms with a delicate yet distinct sweetness, its airy, green quality evoking fresh springtime blossoms. It is softened by the powdery richness of orris root, which lends a velvety depth to the floral bouquet. Violet adds a soft, powdery sweetness that plays off orris, giving the scent a cool, slightly nostalgic feel. The jasmine and rose linger in the background, subtle yet unmistakably present, contributing their timeless elegance. These flowers are not overly heady but are refined and restrained, giving the heart of Noir a poised, classic character.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes slowly unfurl, bringing a warmth and depth to the dry floral heart. Oakmoss introduces an earthy, almost damp quality that grounds the composition, while sandalwood adds a smooth, creamy richness. Amber provides a subtle warmth, its golden resinous quality weaving through the scent like a soft, glowing thread. A hint of musk lends an intimate skin-like softness, while tonka bean adds a touch of sweetness, its vanilla-laced warmth blending seamlessly with the patchouli, which adds a final earthy, slightly spicy kick. Labdanum gives a resinous, leathery nuance, enriching the base with a textured warmth.

Together, these notes create a fragrance that feels timeless, dry, and slightly mossy—balancing fresh florals with a woody, grounded base. Noir is both elegant and introspective, evoking the quiet strength and grace of its wearer.

Bottles:

The fragrance line was offered in various formats to cater to different preferences and occasions. The availability of perfume, spray cologne, purse spray, bath oil, and milk bath would have provided customers with options for enjoying the scent in different ways, whether it's through a long-lasting application like perfume, a lighter spritz with spray cologne, or indulging in a luxurious bath experience with the bath oil and milk bath. This range of products likely allowed fans of the fragrance to incorporate it into their daily routines and special occasions alike.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1979, Fashion Fair renamed their fragrance "Noir" to "Ebone" due to a trademark infringement suit filed by Parfums Weil. The name "Noir" was already trademarked by Weil, prompting Fashion Fair to change the name to avoid legal issues. This renaming demonstrates the importance of trademark protection and the potential consequences of using a name that infringes on someone else's intellectual property rights.

Although Ebone (formerly Noir) was discontinued, it remained available for sale until 1989. This suggests that even though it was no longer being produced, existing stock may have still been sold until it was depleted. It's not uncommon for discontinued products to remain on shelves for some time until supplies are exhausted.