Le Secret de Suzanne by Les Parfums Suzanne c1924

Le Secret de Suzanne by Les Parfums Suzanne (Perichon) was first introduced in 1924 in France, and it wasn't until around 1933 that it made its way to the United States. The name of the perfume, "Le Secret de Suzanne," carries an air of mystery and romantic allure, drawing inspiration from the opera Il Segreto di Susanna by Italian composer Ermanno Wolf-Ferrari, which premiered in 1909. The name itself translates to "The Secret of Suzanne" in English, with "Le" meaning "the" in French, and "Secret" remaining the same in both languages. Le Secret de Suzanne is pronounced "luh seh-krey duh soo-zahn" (with a soft French "r"). The phrase evokes images of secrecy, allure, and intrigue, suggesting a woman with an air of hidden depths, someone who is both enigmatic and captivating, like the opera's heroine, whose secret is central to the plot.

Launched during the Roaring Twenties, a period defined by exuberance and change, Le Secret de Suzanne would have appealed to the bold, confident women of the time who reveled in their newfound freedoms. The 1920s, or the Jazz Age, were marked by shifting social norms, the rise of flappers, and a cultural atmosphere of liberation, where fashion and personal expression were key. Women were embracing more modern styles, cutting their hair into bobbed cuts, wearing shorter skirts, and reveling in the indulgence of the decade. The scent, with its floral oriental composition, would have resonated with these women—assertive and confident—while offering an underlying softness and sensuality that matched the era’s mix of exuberance and subtle sophistication.

In terms of how the fragrance was interpreted in scent, Le Secret de Suzanne is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. The scent is warm and floral, with a sweet, heavy finish dominated by sandalwood. The floral heart gives the perfume a refined, feminine essence, while the sandalwood base adds depth and a velvety, woody richness. It’s a fragrance that feels like an intimate secret, wrapped in a cloud of softness, with the lingering warmth of oriental spices and woods. Its sweetness could have been both enticing and luxurious, evoking a sense of mystery—much like the hidden emotions and secrets that women of the era were beginning to express more freely.

In the context of other fragrances of the time, Le Secret de Suzanne both followed and diverged from the trends of the era. The 1920s was a decade in which floral fragrances, often with heavy bases like sandalwood, vanilla, and musk, were increasingly popular, yet Le Secret de Suzanne carried a unique twist in its blend of sweetness and warmth, making it stand out as an aromatic interpretation of secrecy and sensuality. Though not a groundbreaking shift in fragrance trends, it carried the signature elegance and depth that aligned with the luxurious, somewhat indulgent spirit of the Jazz Age, providing a sophisticated alternative to other popular floral or citrus scents of the time.

Le Secret de Suzanne is an opera that blends comedy, miscommunication, and human emotions in a brief yet impactful one-act performance. Written by Ermanno Wolf-Ferrari, it was first performed in 1909, and its plot was later captured in Opera Stories... in Few Words: The Stories (1911), which offers a succinct retelling of its narrative. The story revolves around Count Gil and his wife, Suzanne, whose life seems perfect and harmonious until a cloud of suspicion shadows their idyllic relationship.

The drama unfolds with Gil growing increasingly paranoid and obsessed with the idea that Suzanne is hiding a secret from him. Despite her obvious affection for him, Gil cannot shake the feeling that something is amiss. His suspicions reach their peak when he notices the scent of tobacco lingering in the drawing room—a scent he believes could only have come from a lover, suggesting infidelity. Driven by jealousy, he urges Suzanne to confess, but she remains silent, unwilling to share her secret. The growing tension and emotional distance between the couple add a layer of suspense, as the audience is left wondering what the mystery could be.

The climax of the opera is both humorous and heartwarming. Gil finally discovers the truth when he peeks through the window and sees Suzanne indulging in an occasional cigarette. It turns out that her "secret" is nothing more than a personal indulgence—an innocent pleasure she enjoys in solitude, away from the scrutiny of her husband. The revelation clears the air, and Gil, ashamed of his jealous suspicions, is reconciled with Suzanne. The opera concludes with a touch of lighthearted irony as the family butler, previously too afraid to smoke openly, now embraces the act, lighting a cigarette with newfound freedom as the curtain falls.

In essence, Le Secret de Suzanne explores the themes of jealousy, trust, and the sometimes absurd nature of human emotions. The seemingly profound mystery is revealed to be something mundane, providing a satirical commentary on the misunderstandings that can arise from suspicion and the ease with which intimacy can be clouded by unfounded fears. The opera ends on a note of reconciliation and self-reflection, with the butler’s newfound freedom serving as a metaphor for the release from the constraints of secrecy and misunderstanding. The story, while lighthearted, touches on the deeper human truths about relationships, personal space, and the importance of clear communication.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. The perfume can be described as warm, floral and ends up being very sweet and heavy on the sandalwood. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, geranium, galbanum, lemon, lavender
• Middle notes: rose, orange blossom, violet, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, clove, freesia
• Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, ambergris, patchouli, benzoin, sandalwood, tonka bean, labdanum, musk, saffron, civet, vanilla, tolu balsam

Scent Profile:

Le Secret de Suzanne, classified as a floral oriental fragrance, unfolds with layers that first greet the senses with a burst of effervescent brightness, followed by a rich, deep floral heart, and ultimately a warm, sweet, and resinous finish. The fragrance, warm and floral, carries a heavy emphasis on sandalwood, blending complexity and elegance throughout its evolution.

The opening of Le Secret de Suzanne is marked by the crisp, airy scent of aldehydes, their soapy, effervescent quality giving the fragrance an immediate lift and sense of sophistication. This is followed by the bergamot, a bright, zesty citrus that brings a refreshing clarity and juiciness, lifting the spirits with its clean, sharp edge. Lemon adds to the citrus facet, offering a more tangy and biting freshness, like a cool breeze that sharpens the senses. 

Geranium introduces a subtle floral crispness, with green, slightly peppery tones, adding a sense of coolness to the blend. The scent then deepens with the green, slightly earthy character of galbanum, which brings an almost resinous, slightly bitter note, making the opening feel layered and complex. A gentle touch of lavender follows, its floral, slightly herbaceous scent softening the edges of the sharp citrus, adding a soothing, calm aroma that brings a subtle, almost powdery freshness to the composition.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals itself as a rich bouquet of flowers, both soft and intoxicating. The rose takes center stage, its lush, velvety petals unfolding with a classic, romantic sweetness. It’s paired with orange blossom, which adds a soft, creamy floral note that’s fresh yet comforting, with hints of honeyed sweetness. 

Violet brings an airy, powdery quality, its delicate floral scent evoking a gentle elegance that balances the heavier rose. Lily of the valley introduces a fresh, dewy character, reminiscent of spring mornings, with its sweet, slightly green tones adding a lightness to the floral heart. As the fragrance deepens, the opulent and heady notes of jasmine and ylang-ylang emerge, filling the air with a warm, sultry sweetness, both exotic and intoxicating. 

Tuberose adds a creamy, almost waxy richness, intensifying the floral bouquet with its voluptuous and heavy scent. A hint of clove adds an exotic, spicy warmth, giving the fragrance a sensual, slightly peppery edge that contrasts with the sweetness of the flowers. Finally, freesia brings a light, soapy undertone, refreshing the heart with its delicate floral nature and adding a subtle touch of cleanliness.

The base of Le Secret de Suzanne is where the fragrance truly lingers and envelops the wearer in warmth. Vetiver contributes an earthy, green depth, with smoky, woody undertones that provide a solid foundation for the more ethereal floral notes. This is soon joined by oakmoss, its damp, forest-like aroma adding a rich, mossy green element that evokes the scent of nature itself. 

The fragrance then swells with the animalic warmth of ambergris, whose musky, salty richness provides a sensual and mysterious base. Patchouli brings a deep, earthy sweetness that mingles with the ambergris, offering a heady, almost smoky complexity. The addition of benzoin adds a warm, balsamic sweetness, with resinous undertones that contribute to the overall oriental feel. Sandalwood, the key note of the composition, emerges as the heart of the base, its creamy, smooth woodiness enveloping the fragrance in a rich, almost milky texture that feels both exotic and comforting. 

Tonka bean sweetens the base with its rich, vanillic, almond-like aroma, while labdanum brings a leathery, resinous depth that complements the woodiness. The fragrance continues its deepening warmth with the presence of musk, adding an animalic, intimate touch that lingers on the skin with its soft, sensual qualities. The spice of saffron introduces a delicate warmth, offering a hint of leathery richness that amplifies the fragrance’s oriental character. Civet enhances the warmth with its musky, slightly animalic scent, heightening the sensuality of the composition. 

Finally, vanilla and tolu balsam round out the base with a comforting, sweet richness—vanilla softens the darker notes with its familiar warmth, while tolu balsam brings a balsamic, slightly smoky nuance, offering a final layer of complexity.

As Le Secret de Suzanne settles into its full, rich development, it becomes a warm, floral oriental fragrance that combines the elegance of fresh florals with the richness of deep, woody, and resinous notes. It’s a perfume that speaks to a certain sophistication, evoking both intimacy and mystery—a perfect reflection of its era, romantic, yet daring.

Bottles:

Parfum, photo by Rago Arts

1935: 

“New Perfume Importation SECRET DE SUZANNE By Suzanne of Paris. The most popular perfume of the moment with several members of the English Royal Family.”

Parfum, photo by ruby lane seller dorothy's bling

1937:

“We Proudly introduce to discriminating women Suzanne’s Exquisite Perfume -”Secret of Suzanne”, sold exclusively by Washburnse’s and America’s most exclusive shops. This one superb perfume has brought fame to its creator, Suzanne. A fragrance too elusive to define, and as endlessly intriguing as Paris itself! In its gay Continental package, this perfume makes its debut at Washburne’s, $2.50, $4.50, $6.50 and up.”

Parfum, photo by Perfume Bottles Auction

1937: 

“Secret of Suzanne a delightful odor exclusively at The Crescent comes in fancy bottles for Easter.”

1939:

” it’s the most talked about perfume in years...a gay, haunting fragrance that you’ll adore instantly. “

1939:

"SUZANNE Eau de Cologne by Suzanne is a companion to the exquisite Secret of Suzanne perfume. Madame Suzanne has captured in this Cologne the authentic fragrance of her provocative and captivating perfume."

Eau de Cologne, photo by ebay seller tumtum99

1944:

” Two sizes of this long-lasting, romantic fragrance have made their appearance! “Secret of Suzanne” is a “Perfume with an indescribable scent! Not distracting nor blatant this essence is persuasively alluring.”

Bath Essence, photo by ebay seller 

1945: 

“Delightful, enchanting, sophisticated! For those who know the art of wearing perfume.”

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1924, Le Secret de Suzanne by Les Parfums Suzanne (Perichon) captured the spirit of the Roaring Twenties with its elegant, floral oriental composition. A fragrance that combined both warmth and mystery, it was discontinued at an unknown date but continued to be sold as late as 1953, a testament to its enduring appeal. By the time the perfume was no longer available, the world had changed dramatically—moving from the glamorous excesses of the Jazz Age into the more subdued, post-war years. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Le Secret de Suzanne held a certain timeless charm, evoking a sense of romance and intrigue through its sensual blend of florals, woods, and exotic spices. In the early 1950s, as the scent still found its way into the hands of collectors and perfume lovers, it remained a symbol of an era defined by bold innovation and a burgeoning sense of femininity.