Marcelle Dormoy Perfumes

Marcelle Dormoy was a French couturier and dressmaker active during the 1930s and 1940s and had a shop at 22 rue de la Tremoille in Paris.

Dormoy worked with Vionnet alongside other designers such as Jacques Griffe and Marcelle Chaumont.

Although Morris De Camp Crawford, writing in 1941, states Dormoy launched her business in 1934, the New York Times described a Dormoy suit of diagonally striped woolen fabric in 1 January 1933 and the mannequin "Freddy" (Jean Carlier) gives a launch date of 1927 for Dormoy in his book Flying Mannequin. An article in Fashions of the Hour in 1932, describes a Marcelle Dormoy light wool coat dress.

Marcelle Dormoy remained with Jean Patou in Biarritz prior to returning to Paris, France following the German occupation of France during World War II.

The perfumes of Marcelle Dormoy:

• 1921 Violet
• 1921 Kiss Me
• 1922 Garden Blossoms
• 1922 Naturelle Flowers
• 1922 Triumphe
• 1922 Two Lips
• 1927 Vers le Joie
• 1940 Lilac
• 1940 Coloris
• 1940 Frasques
• 1946 Gomorrhe
• 1946 Sodome
• 1946 Perfidie

Bottles:

Marcelle Dormoy launched two perfumes in 1946, Sodome and Gomorrhe, after the famous Biblical cities of sin, Sodom and Gomorra.

Some of Marcelle Dormoy's perfumes in the 1940s were housed inside wooden presentation boxes, their bottles look a lot like the "apothecary" styled examples made by Baccarat during the time.

Coloris, photo by http://parfum-echecs.chez-alice.fr/parfum/curiosites/curiosites.html

Frasques, photo by Belle de Jour

Fate of the Fragrance:

Marcelle Dormoy's perfumes seemed to have been discontinued by the 1950s.

The brand was recently revived in 2019 and released a few perfumes:

• Nacarat  
• Heliodor 
• Gemma Veneris 

From their website:

"The fragrances are formulated by Karine Chevallier, independent perfumer and a woman of great experience.  

All Marcelle Dormoy perfume concentrates are made at Domaine Sainte-Blanche, on the heights of Grasse, South of France, world capital of fine perfumery.

Our manufacturer Art & Parfum and its perfumers are committed to defend the values of a quality perfumery. Their projects are long-term and transparent, in particular by working with producers of plants dedicated to fine perfumery, such as Rosa Centifolia (Rose de Mai) in Grasse, to offer unique raw materials.

This mythical place is steeped in history, and the privileged witness of a certain vision of perfume creation, aesthetics and beauty.

In a responsible approach, the components of our collection are supplied mainly from France, but also from Spain or Italy for the glass bottle.

The hood is bakelite, a 32% resin of plant origin from renewable sources, but also chosen for its density and beautiful cold touch. He is magnetized for addictive gesture !

The cases are made of FSC cardboard to preserve the forests. Finally, a small unique detail: the dip tube is virtually invisible, thanks to a brand new innovative material."

Gemma Veneris:  Gemma Veneris was the name given by Latin poets to a rare kind of amethyst , much sought after, varying from violet or crimson to white ." Veneris gemma is purple, mixed with violet, or like a rose's resplendent inside, and seems to glow gently against the eyes. " - The illustrations of Gaul, 1549.

A floral and woody signature with sensual elegance, which affirms the wearer with a bewitching and powdery aura. It begins with a strong blast of galbanum and Calabrian bergamot recalling the fresh scent of Earl Grey tea. This is followed by a heart of exotic Madagascar ylang ylang, radiant solar jasmine and the rosy scent of vintage lipstick. Layered on a woody, ambery base of creamy sandalwood from New Caledonia, earthy patchouli from Indonesia, amber, balsamic vanilla, musk and moss.

• Top notes: galbanum, Calabrian bergamot 
•  Middle notes: Madagascar ylang ylang, rose, jasmine
• Base notes: New Caledonian sandalwood, amber, Indonesian patchouli, vanilla, musk, moss

Heliodor: Subtle, with vegetal, aquatic and musky facets, Heliodor is fresh and sharp. Its facets are modern and powdery at the same time for a dynamic and determined aura. From the Greek hêlios, sun and dôrea, don. A Heliodor is a precious mineral, yellow in color with honey undertones, used in jewelry. It begins with a zesty citrus burst of Calabrian bergamot, pomelo, and juicy mandarin combined with the fresh vegetal note of sap. This is followed by an aquatic floral heart of jasmine and rose de mai absolutes from Grasse, cool iris and iced green tea, scattered with sea salt. Layered over a musky base featuring cardamom from Guatemala sprinkled over cedar driftwood, amber and vetiver.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, pomelo, mandarin, sap
•  Middle notes: Grasse Rose de Mai absolute, green tea, sea salt, jasmine, iris
• Base notes: cedar, Guatemalan cardamom, musk, vetiver

 

Nacarat: Both sensual and floral, the fragrance surrounds you with a generous aura. Nacarat is a color name in ancient French. It designates a shade of red, red-orange, or even pink, used mainly in the field of fashion and clothing. The fragrance opens with a sparkling fresh top note of Calabrian bergamot, soft yellow freesia and luminous blackcurrant, followed by a floral fruity heart of spicy wisteria clusters, lush orange blossoms, marigold from South Africa and tart raspberries, layered over a gourmand base of creamy vanilla, musk, earthy patchouli from Indonesia and a sweet coulis made from red fruits.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, blackcurrant, yellow freesia
•  Middle notes: wisteria, orange blossom, South African  marigold, raspberry
• Base notes: Indonesian patchouli, musk, vanilla, red fruits