Amber by Charbert c1936

Launched in 1936, Amber by Charbert took its name from one of perfumery’s most prized and enigmatic materials—ambergris. The word Amber evokes warmth, depth, and an almost mystical allure, conjuring images of golden-hued resin, candlelit salons, and the exotic romance of faraway shores. While ambergris is distinctly different from fossilized amber, both share a reputation for their rich, enveloping scent and historical association with luxury. By choosing this name, Charbert sought to capitalize on the enduring fascination with ambergris, a material treasured for centuries for its complex, animalic, and slightly marine aroma that lent perfumes extraordinary depth and longevity.

The perfume debuted during a transformative era known as the Art Deco period, a time of both opulence and uncertainty. The mid-1930s were marked by the lingering effects of the Great Depression, yet there was a strong cultural push toward escapism, modernism, and refined elegance. Women’s fashion reflected a balance between streamlined sophistication and romantic femininity—silken bias-cut gowns, fur-trimmed coats, and sculpted hats defined the era. Hollywood’s Golden Age was in full swing, with silver-screen sirens like Jean Harlow and Marlene Dietrich embodying a new, powerful sensuality. Perfumes of the time mirrored this aesthetic, often exuding deep, opulent, and long-lasting compositions that complemented the glamorous yet structured fashion trends. Amber would have been perceived as a sophisticated, mysterious scent—one that evoked both timeless luxury and the allure of a world beyond the everyday struggles of the decade.

In perfumery, ambergris was historically valued for its ability to enhance and fix other scent components, creating a smooth, lingering effect. The use of ambergris-inspired fragrances was well established in both 19th- and early 20th-century perfumery, with formulas appearing in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias. Traditional amber-based perfumes featured floral bouquets infused with strong animalic nuances, using natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures. By the 1930s, advancements in synthetic chemistry allowed perfumers to replicate ambergris’s complex aroma without relying on the rare and costly natural ingredient. Synthetic ambres emerged as powerful fixatives, offering a way to maintain the longevity and depth of a fragrance while making it more accessible.

Against the backdrop of other perfumes of the time, Amber by Charbert would have stood out as a fragrance of distinction, aligning with the ongoing trend for rich, opulent scents while also paying homage to an ingredient deeply rooted in perfumery’s heritage. In a market filled with aldehydic florals, powdery orientals, and chypres, an amber-based perfume offered something both classic and sensual—a scent that exuded warmth, mystery, and an air of timeless sophistication.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Amber by Charbert is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Italian neroli, Calabrian bergamot, Jamaican nutmeg, Zanzibar clove, Tunisian orange blossom, resedageraniol, benzyl acetate, Hungarian clary sage oil
• Middle notes: French carnation, Peruvian heliotrope, Bulgarian rose otto, orris, Grasse jasmine  absolute, piperonal, amyl benzoate 
• Base notes: Mexican vanilla, Java vetiver, Sudanese myrrh, ambergris, Abyssinian civet, Tibetan musk, musk ketone, vanillin, coumarin, Siamese benzoin, Sumatran styrax, Singapore patchouli oil, Indian musk ambrette, Colombian tolu balsam, Ambreine, Maltese labdanum, balsam of Peru, Guatemalan storax, Siberian castoreum, Tyrolean oakmoss resin, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Amber by Charbert is an intricate and mesmerizing oriental fragrance that unfolds with an alluring complexity, enveloping the senses in a rich, warm embrace. The opening notes introduce a burst of freshness and zest. The Italian neroli, with its delicate, slightly bitter citrus scent, brings an ethereal brightness, while the Calabrian bergamot adds a sharper, uplifting citrus touch that feels both effervescent and refined. 

The Jamaican nutmeg and Zanzibar clove provide a spicy, exotic warmth, with nutmeg’s sweet, peppery aroma giving way to the deep, almost resinous warmth of clove, which lingers on the air like a fragrant spice market. The Tunisian orange blossom, sourced from the rich soils of North Africa, adds a soft, white floral nuance that is both creamy and slightly honeyed, intertwining with the faint sweetness of resedageraniol, which provides a fresh, herbaceous green character. The Hungarian clary sage oil, with its herbal, slightly fruity and smoky scent, deepens the opening, giving it a dry, aromatic edge that balances the bright citrus and floral notes.

As the fragrance evolves into its heart, the complexity only intensifies. French carnation, often revered for its peppery, spicy floral scent, adds a vintage elegance to the blend, while the Peruvian heliotrope introduces a soft, almond-like sweetness that complements the carnation with its powdery, slightly balsamic undertones. Bulgarian rose otto, prized for its rich, deep floral scent with a hint of honeyed sweetness, becomes the heart’s beating core, radiating its classic, opulent elegance. 

Alongside it, orris, with its powdery, slightly woody and violet-like aroma, adds an ethereal smoothness that enriches the floral complexity. The Grasse jasmine absolute, sourced from the renowned perfumery region of southern France, infuses the composition with its intoxicating, heady floralcy, invoking the essence of summer evenings in full bloom. Accents of piperonal and amyl benzoate add a sweet, vanillic warmth that softens the florals and deepens the sensuality of the fragrance.

The base of Amber is where its oriental nature truly emerges, an intoxicating and mysterious blend of animalic, balsamic, and woody notes. Mexican vanilla, with its creamy, rich, and slightly spicy sweetness, provides a decadent, smooth foundation, while Java vetiver, known for its earthy, smoky, and slightly woody profile, adds a dry, grounding element. Sudanese myrrh contributes its resinous, balsamic, and slightly medicinal qualities, offering a rich depth that complements the sweetness of vanilla and the earthiness of vetiver. 

Ambergris, a rare and prized ingredient, lends its musky, oceanic scent that brings both warmth and mystery to the fragrance. The Abyssinian civet and Tibetan musk introduce deep, animalic facets that add both sensuality and complexity, while musk ketone, a synthetic compound, brings an additional layer of muskiness to the base. Vanillin, the synthetic version of vanilla, reinforces the sweet, creamy notes, while coumarin adds a warm, hay-like sweetness that evokes the golden richness of autumn. Siamese benzoin and Sumatran styrax offer resinous, balsamic undertones that further enhance the fragrance’s deep, resinous base.

As the scent settles, the earthy and smoky notes of Indonesian patchouli oil, sourced from the dense rainforests of Southeast Asia, provide a dark, woody foundation, while Indian musk ambrette introduces a soft, musky warmth that is both sensual and comforting. Colombian tolu balsam, with its sweet, vanilla-like, and balsamic qualities, blends harmoniously with the rich, resinous warmth of balsam of Peru and Guatemalan storax, adding layers of depth and complexity. 

Siberian castoreum adds an animalic, leathery richness, while Tyrolean oakmoss resin and Mysore sandalwood, from the revered sandalwood trees of India, offer a woody, mossy softness that lingers in the base, adding a final touch of smoothness and sophistication. Venezuelan tonka bean, with its rich, sweet, almond-like aroma, completes the fragrance with a final note of warmth, balancing the sharpness of the citrus and the richness of the resins.

Amber by Charbert is a masterclass in oriental perfumery, blending the finest natural and synthetic ingredients into a complex and layered fragrance that speaks to the opulence and mystery of the era. The use of ambergris as a key ingredient is particularly noteworthy—it imparts a rich, animalic depth that has been a prized component in perfumery for centuries. Ambergris, once a rare and costly material sourced from sperm whales, is now often substituted by synthetic ambres, which mimic its fixative and rich scent properties. The warm, resinous, and balsamic qualities of ambergris blend seamlessly with the other ingredients, creating a fragrance that is both timeless and sensual, a reflection of the luxurious yet complex sensibilities of the 1930s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Amber by Charbert, launched in 1936, is a captivating fragrance that hails from a time of elegance and luxury. A reflection of the Art Deco era, it embodies the opulence and sophistication of the period with its rich, sensual oriental composition. Despite its relatively short-lived presence in the market, it left an indelible mark as a signature scent of the 1930s. The fragrance, which was eventually discontinued—though the exact date remains unknown—was beloved for its complex and alluring notes of ambergris, rich resins, and warm spices. Its elegant blend of floral, balsamic, and animalic elements was a nod to the refined tastes of women in that era, drawing from both traditional and innovative perfumery techniques. Though no longer available, Amber by Charbert remains a nostalgic symbol of a bygone golden age of fragrance.