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Vintage Perfumes For Sale

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Parfums Ybry

Parfums Ybry (Pronounced Ee-Bree) of Paris France, they also had an office in New York City. Ybry perfumes were advertised as being "the most expensive in the world". Ybry was a luxury perfume house founded in 1925 by a man named Simon Jaroslawski (also known as Simon A. Jaroslawski-Fioret) and went into liquidation in 1932. His other two perfumery companies are Fioret and Mÿon.



Jaroslawski collaborated with Baccarat for perfume bottles but also had commissioned Lalique to create some luxurious glass medallions for the perfume bottles for Ybry and Fioret (alternative name of Les Parfums des Jardins de Fioret).

It is interesting to note that bath powder, face powder  (retailed for $5 a box), and lipstick was also available from Ybry (at $1.00 each), though I haven't come across any of these yet.

Ybry stayed in business up until the 1960s. The last advertisement for their perfume that I could find was in 1962.



The perfumes of the Ybry line:

  • 1925 Desir du Coeur (slightly aldehydic)
  • 1925 Amour Sauvage
  • 1925 Mon Ame 
  • 1925 Femme de Paris
  • 1927 Devinez
  • 1928 Les Bourgeons (sporty, light perfume)
  • 1929 Les Fleurs d'Ybry line
  • 1929 Un Soir de Ma Vie
  • 1930 Infusion de Parfum line
  • 1930 Parfum de Luxe line
  • 1931 Toujours l'Aimant
  • 1932 L'Amour Toujours
  • 1935 Joie de Vivre
  • 1935 Gardenia
  • 1935 Carnation
  • 1935 Muguet
  • 1935 Lilac
  • 1938 Palo Alto
  • 1939 Parfum Odore
  • 1939 Old Fashioned Garden
  • 1940 French Bouquet
  • 1940 Eau de Cologne
  • 1940 French Cologne
  • 1940 Naturelle
  • 1940 Honeysuckle
  • 1940 Wild Daphne
  • 1944 The Buds Infusion de Fleurs
  • 1953 Sardinia
  • 1954 Blue Horizon

Arts & Decoration, 1931:
"Amour Sauvage," extract in a black and silver bottle, for the sophisticated woman, and "Les Fleurs d'Ybry." suggesting spring Ybry blossoms."


Travel, 1931:
"A new perfume, very mysterious and entrancing — a natural concomitant with all outdoor costumes — is offered in Ybry's "Amor Sauvage" (Savage Love). Its charming, exotic fragrance is indescribably alluring."

The Sportswoman, 1936:
"There is an increasing appreciation for perfume that can be applied rather widely and generously, instead of in one precious spot on a wrist. Ybry's Infusions can also be used quite liberally with an atomizer."

The Etude, 1938:
"Joie de Vivre is a happy perfume, vibrant with life, ready to go anywhere, at any time at the toss of a coin, yet it is a luxury perfume. Ybry has also recently introduced Palo Alto, a subtle scent reminiscent of the heather in high hills."

Consumer Reports, 1940:
"Desir du Coeur (Ybry). $2 (4 oz.). Nondescript, slight aldehyde odor. Weak."


Harper's Bazaar, 1943:
"Ybry's Les Petits Trois combines three miniature bottles of its concentrated de luxe perfumes, $5."


Baccarat Deluxe "Bijou" Jewel Bottles:


Baccarat produced the classic Ybry perfume bottle, a flattened square in colored crystal known as the "Deluxe Jewels". These beautiful bottles were made by overlaying colored crystal on white crystal to create an opaque and unique luminescent quality, this same glass was also used for the short lived Myon perfume line.


Each different color, was related to a particular perfume, and to a different gem. The colors range from a red to a pink, slag green to a darker green, jet black, orange to butterscotch, deep purple to lavender. Most of the time, the bottles had matching enameled and gilded metal covers. These covers were placed over the inner stoppers at an angle on one corner of the bottle.




If your antique Baccarat bottle is missing a label, the perfumes of Ybry are easy to figure out from the colors of their bottles:
  • Femme de Paris in green
  • Desire du Coeur in red
  • Desire du Coeur in pink
  • Devinez in orange
  • Mon Ame in purple
  • Amour Sauvage in black

"Description
May 11,1926. Des. 70,116 7 g S. A. JAROSLAWSKI BOTTLE on SIMILAR CONTAINER FOR PERFUMES AND THE LIKE Filed Oct. 15, 1925 INVENTOR  Patented May 11, 1926.
UNITED STATES Des. 70,116
PATENT OFFICE.
SIMON A. JAROSLAWSKI, OF PARIS, FRANCE, ASSIGNOR TO YBRY, INC, 01 NEW YORK, N. Y., A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.
DESIGN FOR A BOTTLE OR SIMILAR CONTAINER FOR PERFUMES AND THE LIKE.
Application filed October 15, 1925.
Serial No. 15,136.
Term of patent 7 years.
The figure is a perspective of a bottle or similar container embodying my new design. I claim:
The ornamental design for a bottle or similar container for perfumes and the like, as shown.
SIMON A. JAROSLAWSKI."




The colored bottles had round gold foil embossed labels, the black bottles had square, silver foil embossed labels. This bottle received a patent granted on 1925.

Each bottle came in three sizes and different prices from $4.25, $8.25 and finally $15.00.

The deluxe bottle in the velvet box came with a Lalique crystal medallion, this retailed for $30, a larger set retailed for $55.

Princes given in a 1928 newspaper advertisement for Femme de Paris were "$8.50 for the Debutante Flacon, and other sizes at $16.50, $30.00, $50.00 up to $400.00."



The atomizers came equipped with either chrome or gilt brass hardware and can be found in both the bulb style and piston pump style. As you can see there are two different shapes used for the atomizers, a tall square shape, and a low square shape with a curved top and bottom.

The tall square shaped pump atomizer stands about 3.25" tall.  The tall square shape with bulb stands 4" tall. The hardware is stamped "Ybry Paris", "Made in France" and "Depose", I am unsure of who made the hardware. The base of the bottle is acid stamped with Ybry Paris Made in France."

The low square bottle measures 2 1/2" tall x 2 3/4" square. The hardware is stamped "Ybry Paris France". The base of the bottle is acid stamped with Ybry Paris Made in France."




The presentation boxes were known as "Deluxe Jewel Cases" by Ybry and were covered with fine leather and often had color-coordinated small triangular segments and luxurious silk tassels. The bottles were further accented with an intaglio crystal medallion pendant by Rene Lalique, usually in a delicate heart shape or triangle.







The bottles ranged in size from 7 7/8" tall down to diminutive sample sizes of just 1 3/8" tall. Check your bottles for the Baccarat acid stamp or paper label. The smallest bottles I have read, were not made by Baccarat. These mini bottles are embossed with "Ybry Made in France" on the base. I think these were made by Cristalleries de Nancy as they specialized in slag opaque glass bottles during the same time period.



Largest size bottle, which collectors originally thought held bath salts, actually held Eau de Toilette according to the 1927 advertisement shown below. I think it is hilarious how the ad copy reads "Note the container! It's so ugly it's handsome! Decidedly French. Decidedly modern. Exciting! $30.00."








Other boxes looked like little suitcases and were covered in suede , and held multiple presentations, such as three bottles and two atomizers. Another rare example held two bottles, one atomizer and a Lalique medallion attached to the case with a silk tassel, this was known as the "Ybry Duplex Combination Case" and retailed for $65 in 1928.







The colored Baccarat bottles and deluxe presentations were discontinued by 1935 and newspaper advertisements of the era promoted the fact.



Other High Quality Flacons:

Besides the colorful Baccarat flacons, Ybry also introduced perfumes contained in sparkling clear crystal bottles. One of the finest Art Deco designs was used for the perfume Les Bourgeons "The Buds", and another modern design was used for the Les Fleurs de Ybry line.


Les Bourgeons:


This sparkling clear crystal "wine glass" shaped flacon was used for Les Bourgeons (The Buds) starting in 1928. The bottle is always found unsigned and I am unsure of manufacturer. The bottle stands just shy of 4.25" tall and has a gold foil paper label on the front. It was housed in a hexagonal shaped box covered in faux shagreen paper.

The name Les Bourgeons was trademarked in 1929, by Ybry, but was filed for opposition in 1930, as Ybry was sued by Bourjois over the "Les Bourgeons" name which Bourjois though sounded "deceptively similar" to their brand name. This forced Ybry henceforth to start labeling their bottles "Les Bourgeons - "The Buds"".

Later, a less expensive version was also produced, this time out of pressed glass instead of fine crystal, this bottle lacks the refined pedestal and sharply cut edges. This bottle stands 4" tall.












Les Fleurs d'Ybry:


The Les Fleurs d'Ybry line consisted of single flower scents contained in modern clear crystal flacons with cylindrical top and square bottom. The stoppers have a hole drilled through so that a silken thread can pass through and wrap around the neck of the bottle to seal the contents. Unsure of manufacturer, but the glass is very high quality. The bottles were housed in square presentation boxes of heavy cardstock covered in black velour and trimmed with gold paper. The scents in this line included: Muguet, Lilac, Gardenia, Carnation, Honeysuckle. The line also included scented face powders in six tints.

The bottle was available in three sizes;

  • 1/2 oz
  • 1 oz
  • 2 oz 







Lesser Quality Bottles:

However, starting in the 1930s, the Ybry line started producing lesser quality perfumes and presentations. Some bottles you will come across are the square shaped bottles with frosted stoppers molded with the Ybry name. Other bottles are the pinched glass Cologne flacons, the crackled texture Infusion de Parfum bottles and Odore bottles.



YBRY Stopper Bottles:

These are square shaped bottles with frosted and unfrosted glass stoppers molded with the Ybry name. The boxes differed for the presentations as did the labels. The bottle came in two sizes: 1/2 oz which stands about 2.5" tall and 1 oz which stands about 3" tall.



Eau de Colognes:

 In 1934, they introduced the Ybry line of Eau de Colognes, shown below, in two sizes, 4 oz and 8oz in amber glass. Not made by Baccarat. A similar bottle is made of clear glass.



Infusion de Parfum:


Infusion de Parfum was launched in 1930 and was sold until around 1960. Originally housed in a square crystal bottle with a flat tear drop shaped glass stopper, this bottle design was discontinued in 1934 in favor of the crackle texture bottles.

Newspaper advertisements of the era were often not up to speed on the discontinuations and retailers offered old stock at clearance prices years after the bottles and perfumes were no longer produced. Oftentimes, retailers wanted to get rid of old stock and tried to play off the products as "newly introduced" or "just in from Paris!" - this could have been true if the store was in a rural area.




These perfume bottles are tall, rectangular, clear crystal and have a crackled texture, these are were NOT made by Baccarat, nor Lalique. The bottles are usually molded with the Ybry name on the base. The bottles were housed in rich gold and velour covered boxes. In the 1950s, the bottles were fitted with screw caps rather than the ground glass stoppers. Please note that these bottles were also used for the Extrait Concentre, a parfum type fragrance sold in a 1/4 oz size mini bottle. When sold along with the Infusion de Parfum in a gift set in the late 1940s, it was called the "La Duette".




The Infusion de Parfum was a lighter and refreshing form of fragrance described as a "lotion infused with the concentrated oils perfumes...as exhilarating as a cool shower and as much in demand by men as for women." Although not as strong as pure parfum, but "not a toilet water" either, the Infusion was said to have "all the lasting quality as an essence" (in other words, it should last as long as a regular perfume). It was a happy medium between toilet water and perfume, probably similar to today's Eau de Parfums.

This was an affordable option for women during the Great Depression who did not have financial access to more expensive perfumes, but who still wanted to smell like a million bucks.

Its potency was controlled entirely by the quantity used. For day, a light body rub after bath and a few sprays, preferably over arms and neck to give one a freshly groomed feeling. For evening, the Infusion could be used more lavishly for a deeper fragrance.

The Infusion de Parfum was intended for daytime, warm weather, "boudoir use, after the bath, on lacy garments, or to apply to neck and arms" or for use on "the hands, hair, after bath body rub."

Although available in fourteen different fragrances, the most popular were: Devinez, Femme de Paris, Desir de Coeur, and Mon Ame.

If your crackle bottle is missing a label and you want to know the size, use this handy guide:
  • 1/4 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall.
  • 2 oz bottle stands 4.75" tall.
  • 4 oz bottle stands 6" tall.
  • 8 oz
  • 16 oz


By 1935, you could buy the Infusion de Parfum with an atomizer. Infusion de Parfum was also sold in gift sets with dusting powder and talc.





Parfum Odore:


In 1939 they created a line of perfumed deodorant called Parfum Odore - The Secret of Body Charm, one of the scents from this line was named "Beach Club". The label featured a nude beauty holding out a bunch of flowers, again, not made by Baccarat. There were six scent available, some for women and some for men. One of the men's fragrances was called "Sport Parade."


Maison Ybry


GOOD NEWS!!  as of 2005, MAISON YBRY HAS BEEN OPENED ONCE AGAIN AND THEIR EXQUISITE PERFUMES ARE AVAILABLE AT THEIR WEBSITE WWW.YBRY.COM




The perfumes Amour Sauvage, Femme de Paris, Desire du Cœur, Mon Ame, Devinez and Ruban Rose (Pink Ribbon) are in colored crystal bottles with engraved and enameled square brass toppers.

Each perfume has a different colored bottle:
  • black for Amour Sauvage 
  • emerald green for Femme de Paris
  • ruby red for Desir du Coeur
  • amethyst for Mon Ame
  • coral for Devinez 
  • pink for Ruban Rose


Ruban Rose will be released as token of dedication to all breast cancer survivors and victims.


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