Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Iris Gris by Jacques Fath c1947

Iris Gris by Jacques Fath: launched in 1947 and originally created by Vincent Roubert.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is described as a floral fruity perfume with woodsy notes. 
  • Top notes: peach, iris, aldehydes, violet
  • Middle notes: heliotrope, jasmine, lilac, rose, lily of the valley, tuberose, carnation
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, orris butter, cedar, vetiver, oakmoss


photo by ebay seller duhautmarais

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, probably around 1954.

Recently, I had the pleasure of smelling some mouillettes of the newly created Iris Gris by Legendary Fragrances. The owner of the company sent me the two smelling strips. One had Iris Gris Extrait and the other was Iris Gris XO. He said that his company traveled to the Osmotheque to extensively study the original Iris Gris by Jacques Fath and to compare what they had created.

All I can say is WOW! Both strips were gorgeous.

The Extrait has more of a dusty, powdery orris note complete with a carroty top note, punctuated by a trace of peach, followed by a sweet powdery candied violet.

The XO smelled sweeter - the candied violets more pronounced with the fuzzy peach scent than the extrait at first, then the powdery iris note emerged. I am still experiencing these to see how the dry down is, but so far I can smell the oakmoss. These were incredible and even my husband liked them.
Then there is a facet in each that smells similar to the 2010 perfume, Balenciaga Paris. That perfume has notes of carnation, patchouli Virginia cedar, violet, violet leaf.

Now today, the strips are sitting on a table next to me and I can still smell them! They both have a wonderful drydown that still smells of violets, iris and peach. The XO smells strongly of the peach and violet note. The Extrait smells more like the candied violets and a slight woody nuance.

Here are the notes for the recreated Iris Gris:
  • Top notes: peach, iris Pallida, orris root
  • Middle notes: tuberose, lilac, lily of the valley, jasmine
  • Base notes: cedar, musk, oakmoss

Those of you may know that Legendary Fragrances had released an earlier version around 2010, but many people said it just didn't smell like Iris Gris and was lacking the peach note. Well, to those who didn't care for the earlier version, please try this new one, it definitely has the peachy note that makes the original 1947 Iris Gris special.

Here is the link to the Legendary Fragrances website so you can learn more and purchase products! I recommend the sampler scents box! https://legendaryfragrances.com/

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This is not your average perfume blog. In each post, I present perfumes or companies as encyclopedic entries with as much facts and photos as I can add for easy reading and researching without all the extraneous fluff or puffery.

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