Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Shiseido Enchanting Dance vs Clamy's Femme Ailees Perfume Bottle

Enchanting Dance by Shiseido: launched in 1987.







Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Enchanting Dance is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh floral top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a woody, ambery base.

  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, rosewood, cardamom, green note, aldehyde
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, ylang ylang, tuberose, carnation, honey
  • Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, cistus, amber, civet, benzoin, oakmoss

Bottle:

The bottle for Enchanting Dance was directly based on the perfume bottle made for Femme Ailees (Winged Woman) by Les Parfums De Clamy Paris (a copy of which is housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art)

This bottle was faithfully reproduced for the very rare limited edition Shiseido perfume called Enchanting Dance in 1986. The bottle held 20 ml of parfum.

The information on the Shiseido website at the time incorrectly stated that the reproduction bottle was produced by Lalique (so another website says) but it wasn't by Lalique, but actually manufactured by Verreries Brosse, as they were the original makers of the original Femmes Ailees perfume bottle and as they made most of the bottles for Shiseido's perfumes.

 The original bottle for Femme Ailees was designed not by Lalique but by Lucien Gaillard and originally made by Verreries Brosse in 1913.

 Shiseido introduced the new perfume Enchanting Dance to commemorate its sponsorship of the "Dance" exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MMA). The Met got royalties, because the prototype for the perfume's bottle is in the museum's collection; Shiseido got to have its new fragrance sprayed throughout the Costume Institute's galleries for the exhibition's nine-month run from December 8, 1986 til September 6, 1987.



 It is possible to find the replicas of this perfume bottle that were made by the Metropolitan Museum of Art from 1986 and again in 1992, these bottles were made by Verreries Brosse and will be marked either "MMA 1986" or "MMA 1992" on the base.



So how to tell the difference between the three? The Shiseido bottle's stopper has a plastic covered dowel. The MMA version doesn't and is marked "MMA 1986". The original bottle for Femme Ailees by De Clamy has no markings and does not have plastic on the stopper.


This is the original Femme Ailees by Les Parfums De Clamy c1913.




Bibliography:

  • Marketing Madness by Michael F. Jacobson & Laurie Ann Mazur, 1995.
  • New York Times article from 1990.
  • Picture credit : Russian blog "Perfume Dreams"

Les Parfums de Clamy


Les Parfums de Clamy was established by Philippe de Back in Arcade des Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1913; after the stock market crash of 1929, de Clamy ceased productions and sold its raw materials to Guerlain, the company de Clamy was later acquired by Grenoville in 1943. The full name of the De Clamy company was 'Les Parfumes de Clamy, Creations d'Art'. De Clamy was short lived but created several perfumes, which are now impossible to find.


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