Pleville:
Pleville Parfumeur, a distinguished name in the world of fragrance, was established in Paris, France, in 1922 by the visionary Michel Pleville. Nestled at 38 rue des Mathurins, the heart of Paris's bustling perfume district, the brand sought to capture the essence of French elegance and sophistication through its meticulously crafted scents. Michel Pleville, driven by a passion for perfumery and a deep understanding of the art, aimed to make a mark in the competitive perfume industry.
Pleville Parfumeur was closely affiliated with Dalon Parfums and NYAL, forming a trio of interconnected companies. This alliance was intended to leverage shared resources and expertise, bolstering each brand's presence in the market. Despite the promising foundation and potential for success, all three companies experienced a relatively brief commercial lifespan. The reasons for their short duration could be attributed to various factors, such as intense competition, economic challenges, or shifts in consumer preferences during the post-war period.
During its operational years, Pleville Parfumeur would have contributed to the rich tapestry of Parisian perfumery, creating fragrances that resonated with the sophisticated tastes of its time. The legacy of Michel Pleville and his endeavor remains a part of the intricate history of French perfumery, reflecting a period of both innovation and volatility in the industry. While the companies may no longer exist, their brief presence adds a layer of historical depth to the narrative of early 20th-century perfumery in Paris.
The perfumes of Pleville:
- 1917 Flamme de Gloire
- 1923 Jasmin
- 1923 Charme Caressant
- 1923 Flamme d'Or (an exotic, spicy fragrance)
- 1923 Flanerie
- 1923 Mah Jongg
- 1923 Triomphe de Pleville (a rich floral fragrance)
- 1925 Un Air Des Bois
- 1925 Avec La Mode
- 1926 Le Secret de la Perle
- 1927 Plaisir d'Orient
- 1927 Jardin d'Iran
- 1930 Desirez-Moi
The Southern Pharmaceutical Journal ... - Volume 20, 1927:
"Pleville Perfumer of Paris, France, have opened an office at 412 Mercantile Bank building, Dallas, Texas, with Harry Joseph Tussly, general manager, in charge. Mr Tuffly is well known in drug circles in the South, being a former president of the Texas Drug Travelers Association. Pleville are travelling 78 salesmen and create the Flame De Gloire line and La Secret De La Perle. A cordial invitation is extended to druggists to pay a visit."
Flamme de Gloire, translating to "Flame of Glory" in French, was a perfume created to commemorate the valor and sacrifice of World War I. This evocative fragrance was designed for women, capturing the era's spirit of resilience and triumph. As a spicy floral oriental scent, it was renowned for its piquant and exotic qualities, resonating deeply with those who sought to embody a sense of elegance and strength.
The fragrance of Flamme de Gloire was a masterful blend of ingredients, with cinnamon and carnation prominently featured to evoke a fiery warmth. This combination was designed to bring forth a note of fire, symbolizing the enduring spirit of glory and remembrance. The perfume also included a rich tapestry of additional notes: the romantic allure of rose, the intoxicating beauty of jasmine, the creamy smoothness of sandalwood, the sensuality of musk, and the timeless elegance of ambergris. Together, these elements created a complex and sophisticated scent that was both memorable and distinctive.
The first crystal bottle for Flamme de Gloire was produced by the prestigious Baccarat, utilizing their model #330. This exquisite bottle was introduced in 1917 and again in 1923, showcasing the artistry and craftsmanship of Baccarat's crystal work. The bottle's design was elegant and refined, perfectly complementing the luxurious fragrance it contained. A 1925 advertisement featured this bottle, highlighting its timeless appeal and the allure of the perfume it housed. The combination of the perfume's rich scent and the exquisite bottle made Flamme de Gloire a notable creation in the world of perfumery, a tribute to both beauty and bravery.
In 1924, Flamme de Gloire found a new and striking embodiment to commemorate the Paris Olympics. This iteration of the perfume was presented in a different clear crystal flacon, designed by the renowned Cristalleries de Baccarat. The design, numbered #536, was a testament to the artistry and sophistication of Baccarat’s crystal craftsmanship. The elegant flacon captured the essence of the perfume while also aligning with the spirit of the Olympic Games.
The name "Flamme de Gloire" in this context took on an additional layer of meaning, reflecting the iconic flaming Olympic torch. This symbolic representation of the Olympic spirit — a blend of perseverance, excellence, and international unity — was beautifully mirrored in the fragrance. The clear crystal flacon was meticulously designed to evoke the image of a flame, further enhancing the connection between the perfume and the Olympic Games.
This special edition of Flamme de Gloire maintained its signature spicy floral oriental composition, with cinnamon and carnation continuing to bring forth a note of fire. The additional notes of rose, jasmine, sandalwood, musk, and ambergris remained integral to the scent, creating a harmonious and exotic fragrance that resonated with the grandeur and global significance of the Olympics. The 1924 presentation by Baccarat added another layer of prestige to Flamme de Gloire, intertwining the worlds of perfumery and sports in a celebration of glory and elegance.
Secret de la Perle:
Le Secret de la Perle was a perfume that distinguished itself not only through its scent but also through its spectacular and innovative presentation. The perfume was housed in a presentation case shaped like a rare Tahitian pearl, an exquisite design that captured the luxury and elegance associated with the fragrance. This unique black glass case was entirely covered with a grey pearly nacre finish known as latence de hareng. This finish, invented by Andre Jollivet and produced by Nesle Normandeuse, gave the case a mesmerizing, shimmering quality reminiscent of the finest pearls.
Inside this elaborate case was a clear glass perfume bottle and stopper, also adorned with a white pearl nacre latence de hareng finish, which sat elegantly on a metal base. The black glass cover fitted perfectly over the bottle, completing the illusion of a precious pearl. Despite its intricate design, the bottle itself was only 2.75 inches tall, a testament to the detailed craftsmanship involved in its creation.
The entire ensemble was housed within an octagonal cardboard box, topped with a thick, silken tassel, adding an extra touch of sophistication to the presentation. According to a 1928 newspaper article, each bottle took six weeks to make, reflecting the meticulous effort and artistry required to produce such a luxurious item. Retailing for $35 in 1926, Le Secret de la Perle was a significant investment at the time, equivalent to approximately $542.42 in 2021 when adjusted for inflation.
Le Secret de la Perle continued to be sold until 1935, after which it was discontinued. Despite its relatively short commercial lifespan, the perfume left a lasting impression due to its extraordinary packaging and the dedication to quality that defined its production.
Mah Jongg:
Pleville's Mah-Jongg perfume was an exquisite creation, both in scent and presentation, reflecting the popular cultural fascination with the game of Mahjong during the 1920s. The perfume was housed in a striking black glass bottle, designed to resemble a traditional Chinese snuff bottle. This bottle was topped with an opaque green jade glass button-shaped stopper, adding an element of elegance and oriental allure.
The front of the bottle was intricately molded with the name "Mah-Jongg," along with a Chinese character idiom 'Fa,' which signifies wealth and prosperity. Additionally, a green dragon and the inscription "Pleville Paris" were prominently featured, accentuated with an applied patina that highlighted the detailed design. The back of the bottle also featured a dragon, reinforcing the idiom 'Fa' and adding to the overall aesthetic and symbolic richness of the bottle.
Marked on the bottom with "Made in France A. Jollivet," the bottle was available in two sizes: one standing at 2.75 inches tall and the other at 3.25 inches tall. This elegant vessel was presented in a specially designed box, which further enhanced its appeal. The presentation box had a pull-out drawer and a lid styled to resemble a Mahjong tile, seamlessly blending the thematic elements of the game with the luxurious experience of the perfume. Inside the drawer, small celluloid dice and a long silk tassel added to the charm and authenticity of the presentation, making it a delightful keepsake.
During the 1920s, Mahjong was a widely popular game, and the imagery associated with it would have resonated deeply with many women of the time. Pleville's Mah-Jongg perfume captured this cultural zeitgeist, offering not just a fragrance but an entire sensory and aesthetic experience that celebrated the exotic and the fashionable.
Plaisir d'Orient:
Plaisir d'Orient, or "Oriental Pleasure," was a perfume that perfectly captured the fascination with all things "oriental" that prevailed among women during the Roaring 20s. The perfume was presented in a stunning opaque celadon green glass bottle, a hue that was both fashionable and evocative of the exotic East. Topped with a gilded stopper, this elegant bottle was designed by the renowned Andre Jollivet, whose craftsmanship added an extra layer of sophistication to the presentation.
The allure of Plaisir d'Orient extended beyond its beautiful bottle. The polychromed label featured a chinoiserie image, a style that incorporated Chinese artistic influences and was immensely popular during that era. This label, combined with the name "Oriental Pleasure," suggested an exotic and sensuous experience that would have captivated the visual and olfactory senses of women at the time. The scent itself was likely crafted to evoke the rich and mysterious aromas associated with the Orient, further enhancing its appeal.
In addition to its aesthetic and olfactory allure, the bottle's celadon green color was in perfect harmony with contemporary home decor trends. Shades of jade, Nile green, celadon, and Ming green were widely used in various interior designs, making this bottle a stylish and fitting addition to a modern woman's vanity. The combination of its exquisite design, enticing name, and promise of an exotic fragrance made Plaisir d'Orient a symbol of luxury and allure during the 1920s, reflecting the era's fascination with the mystique of the East.
Dalon:
Dalon, established in 1924, was a notable name in the world of beauty and fragrance, functioning as an affiliate of Pleville and a subsidiary of NYAL. This interconnected relationship allowed Dalon to benefit from shared resources and expertise, enabling it to carve out a significant presence in the competitive market of perfumes, cosmetics, skincare, and toiletries.
One of Dalon's prominent lines, "Agnes Sorel," made its debut around 1931. Named after the famous mistress of King Charles VII of France, who was known for her beauty and influence, this line likely embodied the elegance and sophistication associated with its namesake. The introduction of this line reflected Dalon's commitment to creating products that appealed to the refined tastes of its clientele.
In 1937, Dalon expanded its offerings with the "Formal by Dalon" line. This range included products such as facial freshener and brilliantine, catering to the grooming needs of both women and men. The "Formal by Dalon" line emphasized a polished and well-groomed appearance, which was highly valued during that era. These products became a staple for those seeking to maintain an impeccable image, further establishing Dalon's reputation in the beauty industry.
Dalon's success and innovation extended well into the 1960s, with the company continuing to manufacture a diverse array of products. This longevity showcased the brand's ability to adapt to changing trends and consumer preferences over the decades. By consistently offering high-quality perfumes, cosmetics, skincare, and toiletries, Dalon maintained a loyal customer base and secured its place in the annals of beauty history.
The perfumes of Dalon:
- 1924 Charme Caressant
- 1938 Formal by Dalon Skincare line
Charme Caressant:
Dalon's perfume Charme Caressant was a testament to the brand's dedication to elegance and modernity, presented in an exquisite opaque celadon green glass bottle. The bottle's surface was intricately molded to mimic a faux shagreen pattern, giving it a tactile and visually appealing texture. This design element added a luxurious feel to the perfume, aligning with the sophisticated tastes of the era's fashionable women.
The choice of celadon green, often referred to as Nile green, was particularly significant. This shade was highly favored by the "modern" women of the time, symbolizing a sense of freshness and contemporary style. The bottle's design and color reflected the era's fascination with exotic and refined aesthetics, making it a coveted item on any vanity.
Renowned designer Andre Jollivet, who had a knack for creating visually stunning and innovative perfume bottles, crafted the Charme Caressant bottle. It was available in two sizes for the parfum extract, catering to different preferences and needs of the consumers. Each bottle was a piece of art, designed to enhance the allure of the perfume it contained.
In contrast, the toilet water version of Charme Caressant was housed in a clear glass bottle, which, while elegant, did not feature the same intricate design as the parfum extract bottles. This bottle was not produced by Jollivet, indicating a distinction between the high-end parfum extract and the more accessible toilet water. Despite this difference, both versions maintained a level of sophistication that was in line with Dalon's reputation for quality and style.
The Chilliwack Progress, 1933:
"DALON TOILETRIES at "2 for 1". The new and beautiful Dalon Toiletries include every requisite for a complete Home Beauty Treatment. 75c Nourishing Cream. Firms and strengthens facial muscles ... 2 for 75c Foundation Cream. A perfect base for powder 2 for 75c. Face Powder. Fine but very adherent .. 2 for 75c."
Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 43, 1938:
"DALON - Caps molded in a lustrous shade of coral seal the facial freshener and brilliantine bottles of the "Formal by Dalon" line. Even the most delicate feminine fingers can remove and replace these caps when the bottles are in use."
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