Le No. 9 by Cadolle c1926

Launched in 1926, Le No. 9 by Cadolle was a bold statement in the world of perfumery, a luxurious answer to the reigning success of Chanel No. 5. The name itself, Le No. 9, is French, pronounced "luh nuhf" in layman’s terms, and translates simply to "The Number 9." Numbers in perfume names often carry an air of mystique and significance. In this case, the choice of "9" could suggest refinement, completion, or an elusive sense of perfection—concepts that resonated deeply in the 1920s, a time when women were redefining elegance and independence. The name evokes a sense of exclusivity, an enigmatic code meant to be deciphered by those in the know. Much like its numerical counterpart from Chanel, Le No. 9 was not just a fragrance but an identity, a symbol of sophistication and modernity.

The perfume emerged in the midst of the Roaring Twenties, a period of radical change known as Les Années Folles in France. The decade was defined by newfound freedoms—women had gained the right to vote, flappers defied social norms with their short hair and daring hemlines, and the arts flourished under the influence of jazz, Art Deco, and avant-garde movements. Fashion was shedding its rigid past; corsets had given way to fluid silhouettes, and designers such as Jeanne Lanvin and Coco Chanel championed effortless elegance over excess. Against this backdrop, perfumery was also undergoing a revolution. The traditional soliflore compositions of the 19th century were being replaced by more abstract, complex blends. The success of Chanel No. 5, with its pioneering use of aldehydes, set the stage for a new kind of luxury scent—one that was modern, sophisticated, and unmistakably synthetic in its execution.

Le No. 9 followed this trend, classified as an aldehydic woody floral, likely featuring the same powdery brightness that had made No. 5 iconic. The aldehydes would have lent the fragrance an airy, effervescent quality—like the shimmer of a beaded flapper dress in candlelight—while the woody and floral elements grounded it in sensuality. The scent would have appealed to the daring, self-assured woman of the 1920s, one who embraced both femininity and autonomy. To wear Le No. 9 would have been to step into a world of Parisian luxury, to be part of the same avant-garde movement that was redefining beauty and self-expression.

Cadolle, the brand behind this fragrance, was no stranger to revolution. Founded by Herminie Cadolle, a trailblazing couturière, the house of Cadolle was best known for its pioneering work in lingerie. In 1889, Herminie Cadolle invented the modern bra, freeing women from the constraints of the traditional corset and reshaping fashion history. Her legacy was one of innovation and empowerment, making it fitting that Cadolle would venture into perfumery with a scent as daring as Le No. 9. Just as her lingerie designs liberated the female form, her fragrance offered a new kind of allure—one that was sensual yet sophisticated, modern yet timeless.

Within the broader landscape of 1920s perfumery, Le No. 9 was both in step with the trends of the time and a unique interpretation of them. The explosion of aldehydic florals in the wake of Chanel No. 5 meant that many luxury houses sought to craft their own version of this new olfactory language. Yet, as a brand primarily associated with lingerie and intimate apparel, Cadolle’s entry into the fragrance world carried a distinctive allure. Their scent was not just another perfume; it was an extension of the intimate, luxurious experience that their designs provided—a finishing touch to the modern woman’s ensemble.

Ultimately, Le No. 9 was more than just a perfume—it was a statement. A declaration of independence, refinement, and sensuality. It was a fragrance for the woman who understood that allure was not just about how one looked, but how one carried herself—an invisible, intoxicating signature of confidence and grace.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the original formula smell like? Le No. 9 by Cadolle is classified as an aldehydic woody floral fragrance for women. The luxurious Cadolle No. 9 was created as an answer to Chanel’s famous No. 5 perfume.

• Top notes: Tunisian orange, Calabrian bergamot, aldehydes, Dutch narcissus
• Middle notes: Florentine orris, Manila ylang ylang, Alpine lily, French carnation, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Brazilian rosewood, Siamese benzoin, Virginian cedar, Penang patchouli, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss, Java vetiver

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Le No. 9 is an airy effervescence, a shimmering brightness that sparkles as if lit from within. This is the magic of aldehydes—synthetic molecules that amplify the natural elements, lending them an almost champagne-like fizz. These aldehydes, reminiscent of freshly laundered linen or the crispness of cold morning air, elevate the citrus top notes, making them feel weightless and radiant. The Tunisian orange bursts forth with a sweet, sun-drenched juiciness, its floral nuances softened by the luminous, green-tinted sharpness of Calabrian bergamot. The latter, grown in the coastal groves of southern Italy, is prized for its complexity—both bright and bitter, a refined citrus that adds depth rather than mere sharpness. The narcissus from the Netherlands, a colder climate than its Mediterranean counterparts, brings an unexpectedly green and almost leathery facet, weaving a thread of intrigue into the otherwise sparkling opening.

As the scent unfolds, it reveals its opulent floral heart—a symphony of blooms that feel rich yet restrained, extravagant yet effortlessly chic. At the center is Florentine orris, a material so precious that its production takes years. The orris root, harvested and aged to develop its full potential, imparts a velvety, powdery smoothness, an effect akin to the softest suede or the delicate whisper of vintage face powder. Manila ylang-ylang adds a languid, almost narcotic quality—a tropical floral with creamy, banana-like undertones that soften the sharper florals. The lily from the Alpine regions introduces a cool, dewy freshness, a reminder of delicate petals kissed by mountain mist. French carnation lends a spicy, clove-like bite, its piquant quality counterbalancing the lush sweetness of Grasse jasmine. This jasmine, cultivated in the fields of southern France and harvested at dawn, is revered for its indolic richness—sensual, almost animalic, yet utterly refined. The Bulgarian rose, with its deep, honeyed intensity, completes the floral bouquet, adding a warm, slightly fruity nuance that enhances the perfume’s overall elegance.

Beneath this lush floral tapestry lies a base that is at once grounding and seductive. Mysore sandalwood, one of the most sought-after perfumery materials, unfurls its creamy, golden richness—a sacred wood that carries whispers of incense and ancient temples. Brazilian rosewood, with its slightly peppery, resinous profile, adds depth and complexity. Siamese benzoin contributes a warm, balsamic sweetness, reminiscent of caramelized amber and vanilla, while Virginian cedar provides a crisp, pencil-shavings-like dryness that tempers the more opulent elements. The Penang patchouli, grown in the humid jungles of Malaysia, is darker and earthier than its Indonesian counterpart, its damp, almost chocolaty aroma lending an air of mystery. Tibetan musk, a nod to the animalic musks of old, blends seamlessly with ambergris—an elusive, oceanic note that gives the scent a luminous, almost salty sensuality. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the forests of Austria, anchors the entire composition with its velvety green depth, a chypre-like shadow that adds structure and sophistication. Finally, Java vetiver, with its smoky, almost leathery facets, lingers like the memory of fine perfume clinging to silk.

The result is a fragrance that feels both classic and modern, luxurious yet understated. Le No. 9 is not a scent that shouts—it speaks in hushed, knowing tones, a quiet confidence that lingers on the skin like a secret whispered close. It is a fragrance for a woman who understands that elegance is not about excess but about balance, contrast, and the effortless interplay of light and shadow.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

After the devastation of the Second World War, businesses across Europe were forced to adapt to the changing economic landscape, and the house of Cadolle was no exception. Herminie Cadolle, a visionary entrepreneur best known for revolutionizing women's undergarments with the invention of the modern bra, recognized the need to protect her brand’s legacy. Among her ventures was Le No. 9, a perfume that had garnered admiration for its refined, sophisticated character. As the postwar years brought economic instability and shifting markets, Cadolle made the strategic decision to sell the formula for Le No. 9 to the esteemed couture house of Paquin, known not only for its fashion but also for its acclaimed fragrance 9 X 9.

Under Paquin’s stewardship, Le No. 9 found itself aligned with a brand that embodied Parisian luxury and innovation. However, the fragrance’s journey was far from over. In the latter half of the 20th century, as global beauty conglomerates expanded their reach, L’Oréal acquired Paquin, inheriting its perfume formulas and archives. With this acquisition, Le No. 9 was momentarily absorbed into the vast portfolio of one of the world’s most influential beauty companies. Yet, despite L’Oréal’s dominance in the industry, Le No. 9 did not vanish into obscurity. Its legacy remained intact, waiting for the right moment to be reclaimed by the family that had first brought it into existence.

That moment arrived in 1986 when Poupie Cadolle, the great-great-great-granddaughter of Herminie Cadolle, took a bold step to restore her ancestor’s name in the world of fine perfumery. With a deep respect for tradition yet an eye toward modernity, she founded Cadolle Parfums, bringing Le No. 9 back under the ownership of the Cadolle family. This act was more than a mere business transaction—it was a symbolic return, a reaffirmation of the brand’s heritage and its commitment to luxury. By reclaiming Le No. 9, Poupie Cadolle ensured that the fragrance, much like the revolutionary lingerie designs of her forebear, would continue to define elegance and femininity for future generations.

1989 Reformulation & Relaunch:

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By 1989, Le No. 9 by Cadolle was ready to step into a new era of perfumery. Reformulated and relaunched, the fragrance retained the essence of its original opulence while adapting to contemporary tastes. The updated composition transformed Le No. 9 into a powdery-soft oriental fragrance, a delicate balance of warmth, sophistication, and sensuality. With this rebirth, the perfume was made available in both eau de parfum and eau de toilette concentrations, offering wearers different levels of intensity and longevity.

The new Le No. 9 unfolded with an exquisite interplay of rich oriental notes, enveloping the skin in a luminous, velvety embrace. The powdery facet softened the fragrance’s depth, lending it a dreamlike quality—airy yet indulgent, refined yet irresistibly intimate. This transformation aligned Le No. 9 with the late-1980s fragrance landscape, a period marked by bold yet wearable orientals, where the allure of softness and powdery elegance was in high demand.

With its relaunch, Le No. 9 reaffirmed its status as a fragrance of timeless sophistication. Whether worn as the lighter eau de toilette for a whisper of elegance or in its more concentrated eau de parfum form for lasting intensity, the scent carried the enduring legacy of Cadolle—luxurious, feminine, and deeply evocative.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The 1989 reformulation of  Le No. 9 by Cadolle is classified as an oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange, tangerine, strawberry, jasmine, Bulgarian rose
• Heart notes: red cedar, sandalwood, rosewood, iris, violet, opoponax, ylang ylang, lily, carnation
• Base notes: Siamese benzoin, Indian sandalwood, Virginia cedar, Penang patchouli, vanilla, musk, ambergris

Scent Profile:

The 1989 reformulation of Le No. 9 by Cadolle is an exquisite interpretation of oriental elegance, a fragrance that drapes the wearer in a soft, powdery warmth while retaining the luminous floral and resinous richness of its heritage. From the first breath, the composition is a radiant interplay of effervescent aldehydes and the citrus-kissed sweetness of bergamot, orange, and tangerine. These citrus oils, sourced from the sun-drenched groves of Calabria and Sicily, exude a sparkling freshness that is at once crisp and honeyed, their natural vibrancy uplifted by the presence of aldehydes—synthetic molecules that lend the fragrance a shimmering, champagne-like effervescence, amplifying its luminosity and extending its diffusion on the skin. A touch of strawberry introduces a hint of ripe, almost jam-like fruitiness, a playful counterpoint to the more sophisticated floral nuances that emerge.

As the citrus brightness gently subsides, Le No. 9 reveals a floral heart steeped in richness and complexity. The deep, velvety opulence of Bulgarian rose unfolds, its petals imbued with a natural honeyed warmth, enhanced by the slightly spicy carnation and the ethereal softness of iris and violet. The powdery facets of these florals, especially iris—harvested in Florence and prized for its buttery, violet-like scent—intertwine with the creamy sensuality of ylang-ylang from Madagascar. Red cedar and rosewood lend a delicate woodiness to the composition, their polished, almost balsamic character adding structure and depth. A touch of opoponax, a resinous note from the Commiphora tree, bathes the florals in a golden, slightly smoky sweetness, evoking the scent of aged incense and the richness of an antique boudoir.

As the fragrance settles into its base, it becomes a tender, enveloping embrace of warmth and sensuality. Siamese benzoin, with its caramelized, vanilla-like richness, melds seamlessly with the creamy, milky smoothness of Indian sandalwood, one of the most revered sandalwoods in perfumery. Virginia cedar lends a dry, slightly smoky woodiness that contrasts beautifully with the earthy depth of Penang patchouli, whose warm, camphoraceous facets give the fragrance a lingering sensuality. The interplay between natural ambergris—an elusive and highly prized marine note—and musk creates a skin-like softness, an almost intangible warmth that enhances the natural body chemistry of the wearer. Finally, the richness of vanilla ties everything together, its sweet, balsamic depth rounding out the fragrance with an almost confectionary smoothness, like a whispered memory of something intimate and eternal.

The result is a scent that feels both timeless and modern, a powdery oriental that caresses the skin like a fine veil of silk. In this 1989 reinterpretation, Le No. 9 captures the essence of elegance—soft yet commanding, luminous yet deeply sensual, a fragrance that lingers in the air like a memory of something exquisite, just out of reach.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

The House of Cadolle, a name synonymous with refined luxury and timeless elegance, continues to thrive in the world of haute lingerie and couture, preserving the legacy of its visionary founder, Herminie Cadolle. While the brand’s focus has remained on the art of corsetry and intimate apparel, the memory of its most beloved fragrance, Cadolle No. 9, lingers like a whispered secret among perfume connoisseurs. Once a staple in select European boutiques, the fragrance remained available to its devoted clientele until around 2008, when it quietly slipped into the realm of discontinued masterpieces.

For those who have experienced the depth and allure of Cadolle No. 9, its absence from the market has only heightened its desirability. The fragrance is now a coveted treasure among collectors and enthusiasts, who tirelessly seek remaining bottles on auction sites and within private collections. Its disappearance has added an air of mystery, making each found flacon a rare and precious relic of olfactory history. Like the finest silks and satins of a Cadolle corset, Cadolle No. 9 wrapped its wearer in an aura of sensuality, its powdery, floral-woody notes exuding an undeniable sophistication that transcended time.

Though no longer in production, the legacy of Cadolle No. 9 endures, woven into the fabric of the House of Cadolle’s heritage. It remains a symbol of a bygone era when perfumery was an intimate, artisanal craft—when a scent was more than just fragrance, but an extension of one’s identity. Today, as lovers of fine perfumes continue to search for that last elusive bottle, Cadolle No. 9 lives on as an exquisite memory, forever cherished, forever sought after.