Monday, February 9, 2015

Calandre by Paco Rabanne c1968

Calandre by Paco Rabanne: launched in 1968. Created by Michel Hy of Roure.




Calandre, French for "a car’s radiator grille" as Paco Rabanne was inspired by the grille of a Rolls Royce. Calandre also reflected the metallic theme used at the time by Paco Rabanne in his fashion designs.
 

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft, crisp aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with a cool, sparkling green, flowery top, followed by a radiant leafy, sophisticated floral heart, resting on a soft woody, mossy base. Fresh, dry blend of jasmine, rose, hesperides, tinted with metal.
  • Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, gardenia, green leaves, honeysuckle, and lemon
  • Middle notes: magnolia, lily of the valley, orris, ylang-ylang, jasmine, geranium, white rose, pelargonium and hyacinth
  • Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, cedar, amber, pine tops, cistus tops, sage and resin

Calandre made use of various synthetic and natural aroma compounds such as:
  • rose oxide
  • diphenyl oxide
  • geranyl acetate (geranium)
  • nerol
  • Lyral (4%) (green note)
  • hydroxycitronellol
  • phenylacetylaldehyde 
  • natural rose oil
  • aldehydes C10
  • aldehydes c12 lauric
  • Hedione (6%)
  • Helional (1%)
  • natural jasmin (3-4%)
  • styrax oil
  • indol
  • vetiveryl acetate
  • vetiver (6%)
  • sandalwood
  • Evernyl (oakmoss)
  • coumarin
  • musk ketone
  • vanillin
  • cyclopentadecanolide (musk)

Calandre was the first fragrance to use Evernyl, a molecule found in natural oakmoss. Calandre was inspired by both Caleche by Hermes and Madame Rochas, but it was the inclusion of Evernyl that set Calandre apart from both of them.


Bottles:

Presented in a square silver edged clear bottle designed by Pierre Dinand, who was inspired by the modern facade of the United Nations building. The bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval with plastic by Augros.



Atlas, 1969:
"But Paco Rabanne, the fashion welder, finally got what he wanted. His new perfume, Calandre, is now available: a square bottle in a silvery box with a metal lock. And it actually smells a little like metal, like a printing shop or a blast furnace."


 In 1980, Calandre parfum was presented in a limited edition flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat.  


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

Reformulated and relaunched in 2013 to exclude the oakmoss due to IFRA regulations.

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1 comment:

  1. AnonymousAugust 16, 2023 at 1:01 AM

    I found this in the summer of 1970 in Paris.... I've hoarded that original bottle to this day....

    ReplyDelete

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