Moustache by Rochas c1948

"Moustache" by Rochas, launched in 1948, emerged during a period when post-World War II masculinity was undergoing a redefinition. Marcel Rochas, the visionary behind the fragrance, drew inspiration for its name from a historical and artistic reference—the luxurious whiskers depicted in Anthony Van Dyck’s portrait of Charles I of England. During this time, a moustache symbolized more than just a facial feature; it represented refinement, authority, and a sense of cultivated masculinity.

The choice of "Moustache" as the name for this men's fragrance was deliberate and evocative. It tapped into the cultural nostalgia for traditional ideals of gentlemanly conduct and appearance, embodying a time when grooming and personal style were paramount for men of distinction. The name suggested a fragrance tailored for a sophisticated man who appreciates classic elegance and possesses a discerning taste in both personal grooming and lifestyle choices.

For the man who related to a fragrance called "Moustache," it would likely resonate with someone who values tradition, refinement, and a sense of history. This fragrance would appeal to those who see their moustache not just as a facial feature but as a statement of their identity—a signifier of confidence and masculinity. They would respond to "Moustache" with appreciation for its blend of essences—wood, moss, and rare fruits—that exuded a discreet yet distinctive aura of sophistication.

The word "Moustache" itself evokes images of dapper gentlemen from the mid-20th century, impeccably dressed in tailored suits and exuding an air of confidence. It brings forth feelings of nostalgia for an era when grooming was an art form and personal style spoke volumes about a man's character. The fragrance, with its refined composition and discreet allure, not only complemented a man's appearance but also resonated with his desire to leave a lasting impression—a fragrance that his wife might find equally captivating, thus underscoring its appeal as a shared pleasure in refined tastes.

In essence, "Moustache" by Rochas, crafted by Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska, encapsulated the essence of classic masculinity and timeless elegance. Its name and composition offered a nod to historical aesthetics while embodying the enduring allure of sophistication and understated charm—a fragrance that continues to resonate with those who appreciate the art of grooming and the essence of refined masculinity.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic citrusy lavender fougere fragrance for men.  

• Top notes: lavender, lime, bergamot, petitgrain, citron, lavender, basil, verbena, lemon
• Middle notes: marjoram, thyme, rosemary, spices, geranium, carnation, rose, jasmine, honey, fern
• Base notes: rosewood, yew, Mysore sandalwood, birch, patchouli, oakmoss, musk, amber, tonka, cedar, vanilla, pine, vetiver, juniper, costus

Scent Profile:

"Moustache" by Marcel Rochas stands as a classic example of a citrusy lavender fougère fragrance designed specifically for men. Launched with a rich and complex composition, it opens with a vibrant burst of freshness, blending notes of lime, lemon, citron, petitgrain, and bergamot. This lively citrus introduction sets the stage for a robust heart where aromatic mountain plants such as marjoram, thyme, basil, verbena, serpolet, and rosemary intermingle with the calming essence of lavender and ferns.

The fragrance then transitions into a floral heart enriched with geranium, honeyed rose, jasmine, and carnation, infused with subtle dry spices that add depth and intrigue. As it develops further, "Moustache" reveals its deep, slightly chypre character—an olfactory journey through a dampened forest at twilight. Here, the thick moss enveloping ancient oak trees meets the earthiness of patchouli, pine needles, and the sharp bitterness of birch bark and junipers. These elements are grounded by the aromatic presence of rosewood, Mysore sandalwood, and the grassy tones of vetiver.

To enhance its allure, powdery musk and precious ambergris lend a sensual touch sweetened by balsamic notes of vanilla and tonka bean. Notably, Edmond Roudnitska's creative process for "Moustache" included a unique accord inspired by the natural scent of a human scalp, achieved through costus root, which replicates the sebum found on hair.

In summary, "Moustache" epitomizes the artistry and complexity of masculine fragrances from its era, blending fresh citrus top notes with a verdant herbaceous heart and a deep, forest-inspired base. It is a fragrance that speaks to sophistication and refinement, appealing to those who appreciate a timeless scent that evolves and reveals new dimensions with each wearing.

What Others Had to Say:

The excerpts from various publications over the years provide a rich tapestry of descriptions and perceptions surrounding "Moustache" by Marcel Rochas, offering insights into its evolution and enduring appeal.

In the early years, the juxtaposition of "Moustache" alongside Rochas' feminine perfumes like "Femme" highlighted its unique position as a men's fragrance. Described as having a sober presentation in a straight-lined bottle, often housed in a gray-taupe corduroy case, it stood in contrast to the lace and soft-colored silks of its feminine counterparts. This emphasized its masculine identity while acknowledging its appeal to women, suggesting it was a fragrance that could subtly allure.

Femme, 1950:

"Moustache by Marcel Rochas has the particularity of being a men's perfume. Was Femme not exclusively a woman's perfume? We also had to think a little about the poor men whose wives prefer well perfumed, no one will disagree! Moustache is accompanied by an eau de toilette and an eau de Cologne. It's sober presentation in a straight-lined bottle, in a gray-taupe corduroy case, contrasts with the femininity of the other bottles snugly nestled in lace and soft-colored silks."

In "L'Amour de l'art" in 1950, "Moustache" is characterized as a scent that stings yet possesses sweetness, akin to an old eau-de-vie. This complexity resonates with men of taste who appreciate its distinctive allure, suggesting it as a choice that attracts admirers—an embodiment of sophisticated charm and allure.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Moustache by Rochas: This smell stings...and yet it has a sweetness. It recalls an old eau-de-vie whose flavor it evokes. Whether they are hairless or not..men of taste are attached to this perfume of choice because they know very well that this mustache inevitably attracts their prey!"

"Jet" in 1952 describes "Moustache" as a Parisian bouquet with a clean, crisp, windswept scent, evoking the outdoors. This imagery aligns it with a refined, yet adventurous spirit, appealing to those who appreciate a fragrance that embodies both freshness and sophistication.

 Jet, 1952:

"It is Marcel Rochas' distinctive assortment of Parisian "bouquets," each of which has wide appeal. "Femme," is the ... A perfume for men, called "Moustache," has a scent of the outdoors — clean, crisp, windswept."

"Combat" articles from 1954 and 1955 delve into the botanical complexity of "Moustache," evoking images of lavender, juniper, mosses, and woods. These descriptions paint a vivid picture of a fragrance that captures the essence of a rich, natural landscape, appealing to those who seek depth and complexity in their scent choices.

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Moustache by Marcel Rochas: Although flowery with marjoram, wild thyme and rosemary, this scent evokes the harvests of a torrid land: lavender, yew and thick mosses. junipers fly away. Blue rabbits are seated in a circle on a carpet of thyme. The sap of rosewood and that of flayed birch were mixed with this sorcerer's potion which must have been distilled, for the first time, in the mill of Alphonse. Daudet, expressly to harmonize with the spells of summer."

Combat, 1955:

"Moustache eau de cologne by Marcel Rochas - although flowery with marjoram, wild thyme and rosemary, this scent makes you dream of the harvests of a torrid land: lavender, yew, thick moss and sapid fruits. Jays take flight from the junipers. Blue rabbits are seated in a circle on a carpet of thyme. The sap of rosewood and that of live-skinned birch have been mixed with this sorcerer's potion, distilled in the mill of Alphonse Daudet."

The introduction of an atomizer for men's cologne in "Apparel Arts" in 1956 signifies a step towards convenience and luxury, highlighting "Moustache" as a pioneering fragrance in men's grooming.

Apparel Arts - Volume 26, 1956;

"This eau de cologne carries the virile name of Moustache. For the first time in men's cologne, an atomizer is available. Marcel Rochas."

By 1957, "Connaissance des arts" emphasizes "Moustache" as an extract composed of essences of wood, moss, and rare fruits, emphasizing its discretion and appeal to men of taste—a fragrance that even encourages sharing with one's spouse.

Connaissance des arts, 1957:

"MARCEL ROCHAS Extract "MOUSTACHE" Perfume composed of essences of wood, moss and rare fruits, this extract has the discretion which befits the man of taste and which readily encourages his wife to borrow it from him."

"Apparel Arts" in 1958 reaffirms "Moustache" as a leading name in men's toiletries, distinguished by its masculine aroma and comprehensive product line, including cologne, toilet water, and parfum, catering to every aspect of a well-groomed man's routine.

Apparel Arts, Volume 28, 1958:

"MOUSTACHE - the most important name in the world of well-groomed men. ...moustache is the only complete men's line of fine quality toiletries . . . truly masculine in aroma and packaging...includes cologne (with or without push button atomizers) - toilet water (much stronger than cologne) parfums - after-shave lotion (a quick refreshener)." 

Into the late 1960s, publications like "Town & Country" and "Cue" continue to celebrate "Moustache" for its blend of spices, woods, leaves, and citrus—a testament to its enduring popularity and recognition as a timeless classic of masculine fragrance.

 Town & Country, 1968:

"Moustache by Marcel Rochas is a combination of spices, wood roots, leaves, and citrus, at fine stores."

Cue, 1968:

"Speaking of Father's Day it's a good bet now to introduce him to Marcel Rochas' fragrance called "Moustache." This one has been "abroad" since 1949 and is almost a classic of spicy, woodsy, citrusy ultra-masculinity."

Overall, these descriptions reveal "Moustache" by Marcel Rochas as a fragrance that has evolved with the times while maintaining its core identity—a sophisticated, masculine scent that combines tradition with innovation, appealing to men who appreciate refinement, complexity, and the allure of a well-crafted fragrance.

Product Line:

"Moustache" by Rochas, upon its debut in 1948, offered a comprehensive product line that catered to various grooming needs and preferences of discerning men. At the pinnacle of the collection was the Parfum, the most concentrated form of the fragrance. Crafted by Edmond Roudnitska and Theresa Roudnitska, this Parfum embodied the essence of sophistication with its blend of wood, moss, and rare fruits, ensuring a lasting, luxurious scent experience.

For those seeking a slightly lighter touch, the Eau de Toilette was available, providing a refreshing and intensified version of the Parfum's distinctive aroma. Introduced in 1971, the Eau de Toilette Concentrée (Extra Strength) appealed to men who desired a stronger and more long-lasting fragrance, perfect for all-day wear.

The Eau de Cologne variant of "Moustache" offered a brisk and invigorating option, ideal for daytime use with its lighter formulation that still retained the fragrance's distinguished character.

To complement these mainstays, Rochas also offered grooming essentials like Aftershave Lotion and Aftershave Balm. These products not only soothed the skin after shaving but also imparted the refined scent of "Moustache," enhancing the grooming ritual with a touch of sophistication.

Additionally, the Deodorant and Soap options rounded out the product line, ensuring that every aspect of a gentleman's grooming routine could be imbued with the timeless allure of "Moustache." The Deodorant provided effective odor protection while maintaining the fragrance's integrity, while the Soap offered a luxurious lather infused with the distinctive scent, making every cleansing moment a sensory delight.

In essence, the "Moustache" product line by Rochas was designed to cater comprehensively to the needs and tastes of its discerning male clientele. Whether through its concentrated Parfum, refreshing colognes, soothing aftershaves, or grooming essentials, each product contributed to a cohesive experience of elegance and refinement, reflecting the enduring appeal of classic masculinity and sophisticated grooming.

Fate of the Fragrance:

At a later date, "Moustache" by Rochas underwent a reformulation that involved adjustments to its original composition. During this process, some of the original ingredients that characterized its distinctive scent profile were removed or altered. This reformulation aimed to modernize the fragrance to align with evolving tastes and regulatory requirements in the perfume industry. While the exact changes may vary, such revisions typically involve the substitution of certain natural ingredients with synthetic alternatives or the adjustment of concentration levels to meet contemporary standards of performance and market preferences. Despite these alterations, the essence of "Moustache" continues to evoke its timeless appeal of sophistication and refined masculinity, albeit with a renewed formulation that seeks to resonate with modern sensibilities while honoring its storied heritage.

New Version:

• Top notes: lavender, basil, lemon verbena, petitgrain, bergamot and lemon
• Middle notes: honey, carnation, jasmine, rose and geranium
• Base notes: tonka bean, amber, musk, oakmoss, vanilla and cedar

Scent Profile:

The first reformulation of "Moustache" by Marcel Rochas introduced adjustments to its classic composition, maintaining its essence while adapting to contemporary trends and regulatory requirements. The new formulation opens with a refined blend of lavender, basil, lemon verbena, petitgrain, bergamot, and lemon, offering a citrusy and herbaceous introduction that is fresh and inviting. This updated top note arrangement retains the fragrance's initial vibrancy while subtly altering the balance to suit modern preferences.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, the reformulated "Moustache" features a bouquet of honey, carnation, jasmine, rose, and geranium. These floral elements add depth and complexity, infusing the composition with a rich floral character that complements the fresh top notes. The inclusion of honey adds a touch of sweetness, enhancing the overall allure and appeal of the fragrance.

At the base, the reformulated "Moustache" settles into a warm and comforting blend of tonka bean, amber, musk, oakmoss, vanilla, and cedar. These base notes provide a solid foundation, imparting a sense of depth and sophistication to the fragrance. Tonka bean and vanilla contribute creamy sweetness, while amber and musk add a sensual warmth. Oakmoss and cedar lend a touch of earthiness and masculinity, ensuring a lasting impression that is both refined and memorable.

Overall, the first reformulation of "Moustache" maintains its legacy as a classic men's fragrance by Rochas, adapting to modern sensibilities while preserving its distinctive character. With a balanced blend of fresh citrus, aromatic florals, and rich base notes, it continues to resonate with those who appreciate timeless elegance and sophistication in their choice of scent.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Moustache" by Marcel Rochas underwent significant changes over the years, including discontinuations and subsequent reformulations to adapt to shifting tastes and market demands. After its initial reformulation, the fragrance faced another phase of discontinuation, marking a transition in its evolution. This period of absence allowed for reflection and reimagining of the fragrance's identity.

In 2018, "Moustache" was reintroduced to the market as an eau de parfum under the creative direction of perfumer Natalie Gracia-Cetto. This relaunch represented a new chapter for the iconic fragrance, aimed at capturing the essence of contemporary masculinity while honoring its storied legacy.

Gracia-Cetto's reinterpretation of "Moustache" retained some of the classic elements that made it beloved—perhaps the citrusy freshness and the sophisticated blend of florals and woods—while infusing it with modern twists and nuances. The eau de parfum concentration typically offers a richer, longer-lasting fragrance experience, appealing to those who seek depth and complexity in their scents.

The second reformulation likely involved adjusting the fragrance's composition to comply with current regulatory standards and to resonate with the preferences of today's discerning consumers. This process might have included revisiting the balance of notes, updating ingredients to meet sustainability or ethical sourcing guidelines, and enhancing performance to ensure a memorable olfactory experience.

Overall, the discontinuation and subsequent relaunch of "Moustache" as an eau de parfum in 2018 underscored its enduring appeal and adaptability. It remains a testament to Rochas' commitment to timeless elegance and the artistry of perfumery, appealing to both longtime enthusiasts and a new generation of fragrance connoisseurs seeking sophistication and refinement.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody amber fragrance for men.

• Top notes: pink pepper and mandarin orange
• Middle notes: Atlas cedar and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes:  benzoin, vanilla and patchouli

Scent Profile:

The newest formulation of "Moustache" by Marcel Rochas represents a contemporary interpretation of the classic fragrance, now classified as a woody amber scent tailored for men. This updated composition reflects current trends in men's perfumery while maintaining a nod to its storied past.

At the top of the fragrance, pink pepper and mandarin orange introduce a vibrant and spicy opening. These notes provide a modern twist on the classic citrusy elements, offering a lively and invigorating start to the olfactory journey. The inclusion of pink pepper adds a touch of peppery warmth, complemented by the bright zestiness of mandarin orange.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, Atlas cedar and Bulgarian rose form a sophisticated and aromatic blend. The woody nuances of Atlas cedar contribute a refined elegance, while the Bulgarian rose adds a floral depth that balances the composition. This combination creates a harmonious transition from the bright top notes to the deeper, more sensual base.

In the base notes, benzoin, vanilla, and patchouli anchor the fragrance with a warm and comforting foundation. Benzoin offers a resinous sweetness, complemented by the creamy richness of vanilla. Patchouli adds a touch of earthiness and depth, contributing to the overall complexity and longevity of the scent. Together, these base notes create a memorable trail that lingers on the skin, making a lasting impression.

Overall, the newest formulation of "Moustache" exemplifies Rochas' ability to evolve with the times while maintaining the essence of its heritage. It blends modern ingredients with timeless appeal, appealing to contemporary tastes while honoring the sophistication and refinement that have defined the fragrance throughout its history. This iteration is poised to resonate with discerning men who appreciate a fragrance that balances tradition with innovation, offering a distinctively masculine allure.