Saturday, April 25, 2015

It's You by Elizabeth Arden c1938

It's You by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1938, it was created by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska.





From a 1942 ad in the Miami News.
 "It's You Flower Mist: An individual blend of floral fragrances , light and delicate for use for every summer need. In four oz convenient fingerprint bottle. $1.75."

Esquire, 1942:
"It's You Sequence: Perfume — gilt or transparent hand bottle, $37.50 — square bottles, $14.75, $24.75 and $25.75 — pinch bottle with flower top $6.50one dram size $2.25— flower mist $1.50—Dusting powder in oval boxes $1.50"


It was so successful that by 1940, Elizabeth Arden added several products to its ensemble:
  • It's You Nail Polish
  • It's You Lipstick
  • It's You Cream Rouge
  • It's You Dusting Powder
  • It's You Flower Mist
  • It's You Parfum

Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic floral oriental fragrance for women.  It has an unusual bright citrusy cucumber top note and a warm milky base note.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, grapefruit, mandarin, cucumber
  • Middle notes: linden blossom, lilac, jasmine, gardenia, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: vanilla, ambergris, patchouli, sandalwood, tonka, benzoin

Bottles:


It's You parfum comes in 12 known versions. All in Baccarat design model # 781. It was made as a direct replica of an antique well known Victorian bud vase, the body of which was held by an applied molded hand. It was inspired by the movie Gone With The Wind. To see a list and pictures of vintage hand vases check out this link at the Glass Museum: http://www.theglassmuseum.com/glasshandvases.htp

These hand bottles retailed for $37.50 in 1941.

The square bottle's label clearly shows the hand vase bottle. This bottle came in three sizes. These square bottles retailed for $14.75, $24.75 and $25.75 in 1941.




The Hand Vases Bottles:

If you have any bottles that looks like the ones described below, but aren't shown in the pics below, I would love to add them to the list.

Version 1 is all white opaline glass with polka dots on the non frosted vase and cuff, there is gilt trim on the upper edge of the cuff and on the neck of the bottle, the ring is not enameled, and comes with a gilded stopper. Arts & Fragrances Perfume Presentations Perfume Catalog Auction estimate $5,559-$9,553.



Version 2 is all white opaline glass with a gilded vase, and gilt trim on the upper part of the cuff, the wavy trim on the ruffle's edge on the cuff, a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone", gilded stopper. Phillip’s Auction estimate $4,500-$5,500. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction.


Version 3 is all clear satin glass with a non satinized vase, it has a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone" and a frosted stopper. Photo by Perfume Bottles Auction.



Version 4 is just like version 3 except that it has a gilt band along the top of the vase, blue enamel on the upper trim of the cuff, and on the ruffle’s edge and a blue glass stopper, a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone" . This one came in a domed cover. Arts & Fragrances Perfume Presentations Perfume Catalog Auction estimate $2,453-$3,680. Photo by Dallas Auction.

Version 5 looks like Version 4, but doesn't have the gilded band on the vase and the ring isn't gilded, I think it has a red enameled “ring”.

Version 6 looks like version 3 but the upper part (the “lid” of the vase and neck are enameled in blue with white polka dots at the bottom, a gilt ring with blue enamel "stone" , and the cuff and stopper is enameled in white. The cuff’s ruffles have tiny white enameled polka dots on the edges. This was a Christmas version for 1940. This has an auction value of $5,859-$10,985 in the Arts & Fragrances Perfume Presentations Perfume Catalog.

Version 7 is just like version 4 except there is no golden band on the vase and the hand is stained pink to simulate flesh. Arts & Fragrances Perfume Presentations Perfume Catalog value is $2,648-$3,707.

Version 8 looks just like version 3, except the ring is not enameled at all. Mastro Auction estimate: $1,400-$1,600.

Version 9 looks just like Version 2, except the hand is gilded also, and the stopper is blue, blue trim on cuff.

Version 10 looks like Version 4 but it doesn't have any gilded decoration.

Version 11 looks like Version 2, but has a white enameled stopper.


Version 12. This bottle looks like Version 2, but there is no enameling on the vases "lid" but there is traces of gilding on the neck in the picture, scroll down to see. There is no gilding on the cuffs edges.


Fate of the Fragrance:



It's You seems to be discontinued by 1960.


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