Coriandre by Jean Couturier c1973

Coriandre by Jean Couturier, launched in 1973, carries a name as intriguing and evocative as the fragrance itself. The word "Coriandre" is the French term for coriander, pronounced koh-ree-AHN-druh. It stems from the Latin coriandrum, which traces back to the Greek koriannon. The word conjures images of verdant herb gardens, sun-drenched Mediterranean landscapes, and the vibrant, aromatic markets of old-world spice routes. It evokes a sense of natural freshness and rustic sophistication — an unpretentious yet alluring balance between green vitality and earthy warmth.

Choosing this name for a perfume was a bold, artistic statement. Coriander, both herb and spice, straddles the line between bright citrusy greenness and warm, slightly peppery sweetness — an unusual inspiration that mirrored the changing spirit of the early 1970s. This was a decade in flux, bridging the free-spirited rebellion of the 1960s with the burgeoning glamour and hedonism that defined the late 70s. Fashion was evolving rapidly: hippie influences lingered with flowing skirts, earthy colors, and natural fibers, while sleek, modern silhouettes emerged, marked by pantsuits, wrap dresses, and the glittering opulence of disco fashion just around the corner. It was a time of female empowerment — women were embracing new roles in society, and their fragrances reflected that bold confidence.

Perfumery in this period was undergoing a transformation too. Green chypres were having their moment, embodying the independent, sophisticated woman who wanted a scent that felt more assertive and complex than the powdery florals of earlier decades. Coriandre stood out as a floral aldehyde chypre — a composition that married crisp, aldehydic brightness with the rich, mossy depth of a classic chypre base. It wasn’t sweet or overtly feminine in the traditional sense; it was fresh, woody, spicy, and slightly austere — a perfect olfactory reflection of the modern, cosmopolitan woman.

For women of the 1970s, the name Coriandre would have carried an air of exotic refinement. The word alone hints at travel, adventure, and culinary sophistication, at a time when international flavors and lifestyles were becoming aspirational. It’s easy to imagine a woman of this era — perhaps wearing a Diane von Fürstenberg wrap dress — dabbing on Coriandre before heading out for an evening of cocktails and conversation, feeling worldly, independent, and chic.

In scent, Coriandre translates beautifully. The coriander note itself offers a sparkling, green-citrus opening, with a peppery, slightly soapy edge that feels clean, crisp, and invigorating. It prevents the fragrance from becoming too sweet or heavy, adding an almost androgynous quality that feels daring and modern. This is softened by florals —rose and jasmine — that emerge through the heart, but they’re subdued and elegant, never overpowering. The chypre base, anchored in oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, and musk, brings warmth and sensuality, ensuring the fragrance lingers like a whisper of mystery.

Jacqueline Couturier, Jean’s wife, crafted this fragrance with an artistic vision that aligned seamlessly with the progressive, liberated spirit of the time. Coriandre felt unique yet perfectly on-trend — an intelligent, worldly fragrance that spoke to women who wanted to be remembered not for sweetness, but for strength and style. The choice of coriander as a central inspiration wasn’t accidental; it symbolizes duality — a fresh opening that deepens into warmth and richness, much like the decade itself — poised between natural beauty and modern edge.

The Creation of Coriandre:

The creation of Coriandre was no simple feat — it was a painstaking, months-long journey led by Mme. Jacqueline Couturier. Crafting a perfume that could appeal to women across different cultures and preferences proved to be an extraordinary challenge. As she explained, taste in fragrance varied dramatically from one country to the next. American women, for instance, tended to favor bolder, longer-lasting perfumes, reminiscent of the opulent, intense scents popular in the 1920s, while French women leaned towards lighter, more discreet compositions — fragrances that left behind an elegant trace, rather than an assertive statement. Striking a balance between these opposing preferences required not only creative vision but scientific precision and emotional intuition.

Mme. Couturier described her goal as achieving a "half-way note" — a perfume that felt universally wearable, sophisticated yet distinctive, lasting but not overpowering. This delicate balance took eight arduous months to accomplish. What made it so time-consuming wasn’t just the complexity of the formula but the pursuit of a "round perfume" — a term that, in perfumery, refers to a fragrance that maintains consistency and harmony throughout its evolution from top notes to heart to base. It needed to unfold smoothly, without any jarring shifts or awkward gaps where a scent might fade too soon or one note might overpower another.

To achieve this elusive balance, Mme. Couturier conducted exhaustive tests. She monitored the perfume’s development every ten minutes, for six hours, over several days — a staggering level of commitment. Each round of testing aimed to track how the notes behaved over time, identifying which facets disappeared too soon or clashed unexpectedly. This process wasn’t just about finding the right ingredients, but about understanding how they interacted, morphed, and lingered on the skin.

The structure of Coriandre itself added to the challenge. With spicy top notes, floral heart notes, and woody base notes, the fragrance had to transition seamlessly — from a bright, peppery-green opening into a sophisticated floral core, and finally, a warm, sensual, earthy dry-down. Each layer needed to reveal itself at precisely the right moment, contributing to the overall composition without overshadowing the others. The fact that this process took nearly eight months speaks to how intricate the balancing act truly was — a testament to both Mme. Couturier’s skill and her unwavering dedication to the final product.

In the end, Coriandre emerged as a triumph — a fragrance that captured a timeless elegance while remaining modern and adaptable to different tastes around the world. Mme. Couturier humbly credited God for the fragrance’s success, but her relentless testing and artistic sensitivity were undeniably at the heart of its creation. The result was a rounded, harmonious scent, neither too bold nor too delicate, but perfectly poised — a perfume that women, regardless of their cultural background, could embrace as sophisticated, confident, and uniquely their own.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Coriandre by Jean Couturier is classified as a  floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women. A golden, modern fragrance, it has a bright topnote that makes it a sophisticated but good companion for spring.

• Top notes: styrallyl acetate, undecylenic aldehyde, Calabrian bergamot, Russian coriander, Hungarian angelica, Tunisian orange blossom
• Middle notes: Nossi-Be ylang, ylang, Grasse rose, rosatol, phenylethyl alcohol, citronellol, Grasse jasmine, Florentine orris, Alpine lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, Lyral, phenylacetaldehyde glyceroacetal, Spanish geranium, geraniol, geranyl acetate, ethyl phenylacetate, phenylethyl phenylacetate, phenylacetaldehyde, Roman chamomile, Tuscan violet leaf, methyl ionone, Chinese magnolia, Magnolione
• Base notes: Atlas cedar, cedryl acetate, ambergris, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indonesian patchouli, Haitian vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, Mysore sandalwood, Vertofix, Abyssinian civet, Tonkin musk, Galaxolide

Scent Profile:

Coriandre by Jean Couturier opens with a burst of brightness and intrigue, a lively and sophisticated greeting that instantly captures attention. The first impression is shaped by styrallyl acetate, a synthetic compound that imparts a crisp, green, fruity nuance, reminiscent of freshly cut rhubarb or unripe pears. This sharp, vibrant note intertwines with undecylenic aldehyde, a molecule that lends a slightly waxy, citrus-metallic freshness, evoking the clean, airy feel of sun-dried linens fluttering in a spring breeze. Together, these synthetics act like a spotlight, illuminating the natural ingredients to follow — especially the Calabrian bergamot, renowned for its zesty, slightly floral sparkle. Grown in the sunny groves of Italy's Calabria region, this bergamot is prized for its sweetness balanced with a delicate bitterness, far more refined than its counterparts from other regions.

The heart of the opening reveals the spicy, warm coriander seed from Russia. Russian coriander is distinctly more herbaceous and peppery than softer varieties, adding an unexpected, almost savory edge that keeps the fragrance from becoming too floral or sweet. This spice is smoothed by Hungarian angelica, an aromatic herb with a complex profile — earthy, musky, and tinged with a faint green bitterness, grounding the brightness of the top notes. Tunisian orange blossom then unfolds, a radiant, honeyed sweetness that carries a faint whisper of neroli's green bitterness, lending warmth and a touch of sensuality. Tunisian blossoms, kissed by North African sun, are known for their rich intensity, balancing the sharper aldehydes with their opulent, almost languid sweetness.

As the perfume moves into its heart, the floral tapestry blooms in full. Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, sourced from the volcanic island off Madagascar, exudes a creamy, banana-like richness, softer and more tropical than ylang from other regions. This mingles with the rose of Grasse, famed for its dewy, honeyed softness — an irreplaceable touch of French perfumery tradition. Rosatol and phenylethyl alcohol, both synthetics, enhance the rose's rosy-green facets, ensuring the flower’s tender sweetness lingers and radiates. Citronellol, a natural component found in rose and geranium, is isolated here to heighten the fresh, lemony brightness of the heart, ensuring the floral bouquet remains lively, not cloying.

Grasse jasmine, revered for its heady, indolic sweetness, pairs with Florentine orris — a precious, powdery root with a violet-like softness that lends a creamy, suede-like texture to the heart. Orris root’s earthy luxury is supported by Alpine lily of the valley, a tender, green floral note enhanced by hydroxycitronellal, a synthetic that amplifies the dewy, springtime freshness of the flower, giving it longevity and projection. Lyral, another modern molecule, mimics the cool sweetness of lily of the valley, creating a soft, ethereal hum beneath the brighter florals.

Roman chamomile imparts an unexpected, herbal warmth — slightly apple-like and tea-like — tempering the sweetness with a subtle, cozy bitterness. Tuscan violet leaf contributes a green, watery, crispness, heightened by methyl ionone, a synthetic that extends the violet’s powdery softness while adding a faint touch of woodiness. Chinese magnolia and Magnolione — a fresh, jasmine-like molecule — tie the floral heart together with a silky, lemony creaminess, preventing the composition from becoming too powdery or old-fashioned.

The base of Coriandre anchors this floral-spicy symphony with depth and warmth. Atlas cedar, with its dry, pencil-shavings smoothness, merges with cedryl acetate, a molecule that heightens the wood’s soft, balsamic quality without making it too sharp. Ambergris, though now synthetically replicated, adds an elusive, salty-sweet warmth that seems to glow from within, giving the perfume a skin-like sensuality. Tyrolean oakmoss from the Alps wraps the composition in an earthy, forest-floor dampness — a quintessential chypre hallmark — while Indonesian patchouli lends a smoky, slightly chocolatey richness, tempered by Haitian vetiver's grassy, woody bite. Vetiveryl acetate, a modern twist on raw vetiver, isolates the smoother, silkier facets, making the base feel more polished and refined.

Mysore sandalwood, once the gold standard of creamy, spiced woods, envelops the fragrance in a soft, lactonic warmth, while Vertofix, a clever synthetic, extends that sandalwood effect long after natural sandalwood might fade. Abyssinian civet and Tonkin musk, though historically animalic, now appear in softened, synthetic form, contributing a faintly leathery, warm skin accord — sensual but never overpowering. Finally, Galaxolide, a clean, modern musk, lends a soft, powdery glow, making the base feel as though it’s whispering on the skin, rather than shouting.

The result is a fragrance that dances between nature and modernity, with synthetics working not to overshadow the natural ingredients, but to extend, amplify, and refine them. Each note, from the spiced-green top to the powdery floral heart and the woody, mossy base, feels carefully sculpted — a fragrance that speaks to both the boldness and elegance of its era, while remaining timeless in its sophistication.

Bottles:

Coriandre’s presentation is as thoughtfully composed as its fragrance. The bottle, designed by the legendary Pierre Dinand in 1973, captures the spirit of the era — a blend of understated elegance and modern sophistication. Dinand, celebrated for his work with some of the most iconic perfumes of the 20th century, gave Coriandre a streamlined, minimalist silhouette that still feels striking. The bottle itself is a soft, translucent light green, a color that hints at the fresh, herbal vibrancy within. This pale green hue suggests the early promise of spring — tender leaves unfurling and the cool, dewy air — aligning perfectly with the perfume’s bright, green floral chypre character.

Crowning the bottle is a bold, dark green cap, large and cylindrical, creating a striking contrast to the gentle transparency of the glass. The deep green shade conveys strength and depth, a visual nod to the fragrance’s earthy oakmoss and patchouli base, while the size and shape of the cap give the design a modern, architectural quality. This play between the soft green bottle and the strong, darker cap embodies the perfume’s duality: its delicate floral heart wrapped in the bold, mossy warmth of a classic chypre structure.

The bottle’s production was entrusted to Saint Gobain Desjonqueres and Pochet et du Courval, two of the most prestigious glassmakers in France, each with a long-standing reputation for crafting luxury perfume bottles. Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, known for its precise industrial glasswork, ensured the bottle maintained its sleek, clean lines, while Pochet et du Courval, with roots dating back to 1623, brought its legacy of refined craftsmanship to ensure the glass had a soft translucence, almost like frosted spring water. The fusion of these two manufacturers created a bottle that feels sturdy yet ethereal, a tactile reflection of Coriandre’s contrasting elements.

The finishing touches came from Mayet, specialists in high-quality plastic components. They supplied the inner mechanics — ensuring the spray nozzle and other functional elements worked smoothly while maintaining the overall polished aesthetic. This combination of glass and plastic wasn’t just a practical choice, but a modern innovation for the time. It allowed the bottle to have durability without sacrificing elegance, reflecting the 1970s' shift toward merging luxury with convenience.

Together, the design and manufacturing of Coriandre’s bottle tell a story that mirrors the perfume itself — a marriage of tradition and modernity, natural softness contrasted with bold, clean lines. It stands not just as a vessel, but as a visual and tactile representation of the fragrance’s unique character: fresh, green, and delicate, yet structured and enduring.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1993, two decades after its original debut, Coriandre was reformulated and relaunched — a revival that sought to honor Jacqueline Couturier’s bold vision while adapting to the evolving tastes of a new generation. The perfume industry had shifted dramatically since 1973 — regulatory changes affected certain natural ingredients like oakmoss, while preferences leaned toward lighter, more transparent compositions. Yet, Coriandre’s essence remained intact: a daring chypre-floral that balanced cool, fresh notes with warm, sensual depths.

The reformulation aimed to preserve the soul of the original fragrance — the sharp green coriander seed top note, the lush florals at the heart, and the earthy, mossy base. While some raw materials were adjusted to meet new industry standards, the structure of Coriandre still embodied that bold duality — where spice meets softness, green meets warmth, and elegance meets strength. The result was a perfume that felt recognizable to loyal wearers while being refreshed enough to entice a modern audience.

The brand described Coriandre not just as a scent, but as an identity — created for the active, attractive, and modern woman. This reinvention nodded to the independent spirit of women in the 1990s — a decade defined by power dressing, minimalism, and self-assured femininity. In this context, Coriandre’s confident, spicy-green opening and sensuous chypre drydown felt just as relevant as it did twenty years earlier, offering a timeless sophistication that stood apart from the lighter, fruity florals dominating perfume counters at the time.

The 1993 version retained 119 carefully balanced components, a testament to the complexity and craftsmanship of Couturier’s original vision. The interplay between the crisp coriander and bergamot, the opulent heart of jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang, and the grounding patchouli, vetiver, and oakmoss created a remarkably layered scent journey — one that shifted and evolved on the skin throughout the day. This enduring complexity ensured Coriandre remained a first-class perfume, as the brand proudly stated, earning its place among the timeless great classics.

The reformulation wasn’t just about adapting to changing ingredients — it was about keeping Coriandre alive, ensuring that its audacious spirit and unconventional charm could resonate with a new generation of wearers while still evoking the allure that made it legendary in the first place.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The reformulation of Coriandre by Jean Couturier is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, coriander, angelica and orange blossom
• Middle notes: rose, lily, jasmine, geranium, ylang ylang, iris
• Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, civet and musk

 

Scent Profile:

The reformulated Coriandre opens with a familiar, yet subtly transformed, first breath — a sparkling rush of aldehydes that feels brighter and more effervescent than the original 1973 version. The aldehydes create a cool, airy shimmer, lifting the top notes with a crisp, almost soapy brightness that wasn’t as pronounced in the earlier composition. It’s a touch more modern, cleaner, and less overtly green — a nod to the evolving tastes of the 1990s, where transparency and lightness began to replace the bold, mossy richness of 1970s chypres.

As the initial sparkle settles, the coriander seed emerges — still retaining that earthy, spicy-green bite, though it feels smoother and less raw than before. It dances alongside angelica, which adds an intriguing herbal bitterness, like crushed green stems mingled with a hint of musky warmth. The orange blossom is more prominent in this version — blooming with a slightly sweeter, sunlit glow — balancing the sharpness with a gentle honeyed softness, giving the opening a rounder, more accessible charm than the drier, crisper introduction of the original.

The heart remains unmistakably Coriandre — a lush, floral tapestry that still carries the rosy warmth and spicy geranium punch of 1973, though the notes feel rearranged. The rose is softer, more velvety and less powdery than before, while ylang-ylang adds a creamy, tropical fullness that wasn’t as pronounced in the original. Lily and jasmine weave a gentle, fresh sweetness, taming the sharper edges of the geranium. The addition of iris introduces an elegant, cool, root-like softness, creating a smoother floral blend that feels less mossy and more balanced — perhaps to counter the reformulation’s lighter, more radiant top notes.

It’s the base where the most profound difference is felt. The original Coriandre leaned into a heavier, oakmoss-drenched drydown — deep, earthy, and unapologetically chypre. By 1993, regulatory changes had restricted the use of oakmoss, and here it’s more of an echo — still present, but quieter, drier, and less smoky. The patchouli remains, earthy and grounding, though it feels cleaner, woodier, without the dark, camphorous bite of the 1973 version. Vetiver hums beneath it, lending a grassy, slightly smoky coolness, while sandalwood adds a silky, woody creaminess that wasn’t as pronounced in the original’s more moss-forward finish.

A touch of civet lingers — though it’s more restrained than in 1973, where its animalic growl gave Coriandre an untamed sensuality. In the reformulation, it’s softer, more refined, blending seamlessly with musk, which smooths the base into something warmer and more wearable for 1990s sensibilities. The result is a fragrance that still honors the bold duality of Coriandre — the fresh vs. warm, green vs. floral, spice vs. softness — but in a more polished, modern frame.

The 1993 version feels like Coriandre’s sophisticated daughter — still unconventional and elegant, but less rebellious. It’s brighter, smoother, and more adaptable to the cleaner, more transparent trends of the era, yet it retains the soulful complexity that made Coriandre a timeless icon.

Bottles: