Sabi by Henry Dunay c1998

 Henry Dunay, renowned for his artistry in the jewelry world, expanded his creative vision into the realm of perfumery in 1998 with the launch of Sabi, a green floral fragrance for women. Dunay is celebrated for his sculptural designs, particularly his signature Sabi finish in gold jewelry, characterized by its brushed, textured surface. Known for fusing elegance with artistic boldness, Dunay brought the same meticulous attention to detail and refined aesthetic to his perfume.

The name “Sabi” holds profound meaning, rooted in the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi. Pronounced “SAH-bee,” the term refers to the beauty found in imperfection, impermanence, and the natural world. It evokes images of weathered, time-worn objects, serene landscapes, and the graceful passage of time. Choosing this name reflects Dunay’s artistic ethos—an appreciation for understated elegance and depth. The name itself stirs emotions of serenity, nostalgia, and connection to nature, making it an evocative choice for a perfume.

 

Launched in the late 1990s, Sabi emerged during a period of relative stability and optimism, often referred to as the dot-com era. The cultural zeitgeist was characterized by technological innovation, sleek minimalism in design, and a fascination with the blending of the modern and the timeless. Fashion trends of the time included the minimalist styles of Calvin Klein, slip dresses, and tailored suits that exuded quiet confidence. Women of this era were embracing individuality and sophistication, making a fragrance named Sabi—with its artistic and philosophical underpinnings—both intriguing and aspirational. The idea of finding beauty in imperfection resonated with a generation navigating rapid technological change while seeking balance and authenticity.

Dunay’s Sabi was a green floral fragrance, distinguished by its composition of over 250 mostly natural ingredients. It began with a fresh green opening, unfolded into an opulent floral heart, and settled into a rich chypre base, offering complexity and depth. This scent was the result of a years-long collaboration with Dunay’s younger brother, Richard "The Nose" Loniewski, a master perfumer. Together, they sought to create a fragrance that mirrored the elegance and artistry of Dunay’s jewelry. As Henry explained, “We tested many different blends over a period of years to find the one that was as elegant as my jewelry.”

In the fragrance landscape of the late 1990s, Sabi was a distinct offering. While green florals were not uncommon, many fragrances of the time leaned towards lighter, simpler compositions that reflected the decade's preference for fresh and clean scents, such as Calvin Klein’s CK One or Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea. By contrast, Sabi’s luxurious complexity, grounded in natural ingredients and rich layers, stood out as a nod to classic perfumery traditions while embracing modern elegance.

Women of the time would likely have viewed Sabi as a sophisticated and artistic statement—something more than a mere scent. The philosophical depth of the name combined with the fragrance's intricate composition would have appealed to those seeking a personal connection to their perfume, viewing it as an extension of their style and identity. Scent-wise, the interpretation of Sabi would evoke contrasts: fresh green vitality against a backdrop of earthy, timeless elegance, much like the interplay of imperfection and refinement inherent in the name itself.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a classified as a green floral fragrance for women. Composed of over 250 individual ingredients, mostly natural. A rich floral with a fresh green beginning, opulent floral heart, chypre base.

• Top notes: Turkish rose, hyacinth absolute, wild orchid, galbanum, Indian mandarin, clove, carnation, angelica and bergamot
• Middle notes: lily, rose, ylang ylang, jonquil absolute, yellow narcissus, French narcissus, French jasmine absolute, orris, violet leaf, Tunisian orange blossom absolute and tuberose
• Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, oakmoss, East Indian sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, tonka bean and musk

Scent Profile:

Sabi, classified as a green floral fragrance for women, unfolds like a sensory symphony, with each ingredient contributing its unique character to create an elegant and evocative scent. Composed of over 250 predominantly natural ingredients, Sabi captures a journey from fresh, verdant beginnings through an opulent floral heart to a grounding, earthy base.

The fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of Turkish rose, its lush, velvety petals exuding a romantic sweetness tinged with subtle spice. The ethereal hyacinth absolute adds a green, almost aqueous freshness, reminiscent of a spring garden after a rain. Wild orchid weaves in delicate floral nuances with a touch of exotic sensuality. 

Galbanum, sharp and resinous, brings a crisp verdancy that cuts through the sweetness, anchoring the opening in nature. The citrus brightness of Indian mandarin dances alongside, offering a zesty, sunlit contrast. Spicy clove and fiery carnation lend warmth and subtle pepperiness, while the earthy, herbal depth of angelica root and the sparkling bitterness of bergamot harmonize the bouquet, creating a tantalizing and layered introduction.

As the scent unfolds, it reveals an opulent floral heart that feels like stepping into a radiant bouquet in full bloom. Lily contributes a creamy, powdery sophistication, while rose deepens the romance with its timeless, multifaceted sweetness. Ylang ylang, with its exotic, slightly fruity character, adds richness and warmth, seamlessly blending with the golden, honeyed tones of jonquil absolute and the heady richness of yellow narcissus. 

The interplay of French narcissus with French jasmine absolute evokes a sense of wild luxury, their narcotic, indolic qualities enveloping the wearer in a luminous aura. The silken, powdery depth of orris and the green, slightly woody touch of violet leaf add an air of mystery. Tunisian orange blossom absolute lends a sparkling, citrusy brightness with a hint of neroli's soft sweetness, while tuberose, rich and intoxicating, rounds out the heart with its creamy, voluptuous allure.

The dry down is a warm, grounding embrace, where earthy, woody, and sweet accords intermingle. Patchouli exudes its unmistakable richness, with deep, camphorous undertones that lend a touch of bohemian sophistication. Vanilla introduces a smooth, comforting sweetness, balanced by the mossy, forest-like depth of oakmoss, which anchors the composition with a sense of timeless elegance. 

East Indian sandalwood, creamy and woody, adds a meditative quality, while the smoky, grassy character of Haitian vetiver provides a grounding counterpoint. Tonka bean, with its warm, nutty sweetness and hints of hay and almond, harmonizes beautifully with the soft, sensual presence of musk, leaving a trail that lingers with quiet, luxurious refinement.

Each note in Sabi contributes to a dynamic yet harmonious narrative. From its green, zesty opening to its lush floral heart and velvety, earthy base, the fragrance evokes a sense of elegance rooted in nature's imperfection. As you breathe in each layer, you feel as if you're wandering through a verdant garden, pausing to savor individual blooms and earthy textures before reaching a serene, wooded grove. Sabi is an olfactory tapestry, seamlessly blending art and nature, reflecting the balance between vibrancy and depth, delicacy and strength.

Bottles:

Henry Dunay extended his signature artistry from the world of jewelry into perfumery with the launch of Sabi, not just in scent but also in its stunning presentation. The standard perfume bottle, priced at $225 per ounce, was a testament to his philosophy that beauty should not only be seen but felt. The bottle’s design embodied elegance, crafted to rest gracefully on a dressing table and to feel luxurious in the hand. The accompanying body lotion and shower crème, in large plastic bottles, reflected a practical yet thoughtful approach. "The lotion goes in the bathroom, so you can't do it in glass because it might break," Henry explained. Even with these utilitarian containers, he infused a touch of refinement by designing the gold-faceted caps, ensuring they carried the essence of his aesthetic vision. Encased in sleek black boxes with gold trim and lettering, also designed by Henry, every element reinforced a sense of sophistication and attention to detail.

The Connoisseur's Edition: A Pinnacle of Luxury

In 1998, Henry Dunay elevated Sabi to an unparalleled level of opulence with the release of a connoisseur's edition. Limited to only 100 examples, this double-bottle set was crowned with an 18k gold cap encrusted with pavé diamonds, making it the most expensive fragrance in the world at the time. The columnar bottles were a study in architectural elegance, topped with a convertible cap that showcased Dunay’s mastery in blending beauty with functionality. This lavish cap could be detached and transformed into a piece of wearable art—a pendant necklace.

The pendant, crafted from 18k fluted and textured gold and enhanced with a glittering panel of pavé-set diamonds, opened to reveal a hidden compartment. Suspended from a braided black silk cord, the pendant was both an extravagant accessory and a testament to Dunay’s innovative artistry. Inside the outer glass decanter lay the removable and refillable one-ounce perfume bottle, ensuring that the luxurious container could serve as a timeless keepsake. Each bottle was signed, numbered, and housed in an exquisite black lacquer box lined with 24k gold leaf, completing the sumptuous presentation. This exceptional creation retailed for $30,000, solidifying its place as a pinnacle of luxury and exclusivity.

 A Masterpiece for the Collector

The Sabi connoisseur’s edition blurred the lines between fragrance and fine jewelry, offering collectors and connoisseurs an extraordinary experience. The diamond-and-gold pendant necklace embodied Dunay’s ethos of wearable art, seamlessly marrying form and function. With only 100 pieces in existence, each bottle-cum-jewel stood as a symbol of rarity and refinement, a piece designed to transcend time and trends. Whether gracing a vanity or worn as a statement necklace, the connoisseur’s edition of Sabi was more than a fragrance; it was a legacy of artistry and luxury.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Sabi, Henry Dunay's celebrated fragrance, has been discontinued for many years, making it a coveted treasure among collectors and perfume enthusiasts. Its rarity has only amplified its allure, with those fortunate enough to own a bottle holding onto a piece of perfumery history that transcends mere scent. The scarcity of Sabi in both its standard and limited editions means prices for this exquisite fragrance often exceed typical market values, reflecting its desirability and the reverence it commands in the world of luxury fragrances.

The connoisseur's edition of Sabi is an extraordinary rarity, even among the most exclusive perfume releases. Limited to just 100 examples, this opulent creation—featuring an 18k gold and diamond-encrusted cap that doubles as a pendant necklace—was a masterpiece of craftsmanship and indulgence. Its limited production and exquisite design ensure that it remains one of the rarest and most sought-after collector's items in the realm of haute perfumery. Finding a connoisseur's edition today is a near-impossible feat, with its value extending far beyond its original $30,000 price tag. Each piece, signed and numbered, represents not only an unparalleled level of luxury but also a unique chapter in the legacy of Henry Dunay's artistry.