Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Votre Main by Jean Desprez c1939

Votre Main by Jean Desprez: launched in 1939. The name means "your hand" in French.






Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was described as a spicy floral woody fragrance for women. It was described in old ads as "subtle, fruity".
  • Top notes: orange, plum, citrus zest, spices, honey, heliotrope, bergamot
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, ylang ylang, gardenia, orange blossom, violet
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, musk, labdanum, vetiver, benzoin


Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Votre Main from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like. 

I applied a few drops of the golden yellow extrait to the back of my hand, and at first sniff, Votre Main had a bright, spicy opening punctuated with candied citrus zests of bergamot and orange layered over glaceed plums dripping with honey. The opulent floral heart forms a luscious bouquet of vivid carnation, heady orange blossom, jasmine, narcotic gardenia and attar of rose. Scattered among the petals are rich spices brought back from the Maritime Silk Road: cinnamon bark, coriander, pepper, nutmeg and pungent clove. The sweet theme continues with a nosegay of heliotrope, fresh violet and tropical ylang ylang. The oriental base features the green freshness of oakmoss, balsamic notes of vanilla, benzoin and labdanum. The dulcet tones are further employed by the generous dose of costly Mysore sandalwood. The syrupiness is tempered with the bittersweet notes of vetiver and a faint hint of earthy patchouli. Lastly, sensuous musk and ambergris tinctures make their entrance, still accented with the exotic hot spices and sweetness.

This is an absolutely, fantastic vintage fragrance, easily moved into my top ten of all time, I cannot stop smelling the back of my hand, three hours later, I can still smell the smoldering spices. Move over Samsara, Votre Main might just have you beat with an overdose of Mysore sandalwood. This is an extremely hard to find perfume, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!




The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:
"But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel, the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."


Book of Friendship, 1947:

"Jean Desprez Parfumeur, 17, rue de la Paix, Paris, presents its perfumes: ETOURDISSANT, VOTRE MAIN, JARDANEL, GRANDE DAME and its POUDRE DE BEAUTÉ for all seasons. Jean Desprez certifies all his perfumes to be imported from France. They are entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin."



L'Amour de l'art, 1950: 

"Votre Main, one hand immobilized on the clavier while the other hands you a rose. This is how Leon Leyritz, confidant and friend of Ravel, composed the bottle. It reinforces a fruity wood mixture, orange, plum and zest, two extreme notes smoothed with boldness by oak moss."


L'Atlantique, 1952:
"From a popular French song, 'Votre Main, Madame,' Jean Desprez has taken the name and the bottle for a refined feminine scent presented in a charming hand-shaped porcelain bottle with red and green decor and a flower held in the fingertips. In contrast he offers Escarmouche or 'Skirmish, the perfume that kills,' presented in the form of a crystal dagger with porcelain handle."



Bottles:


Presented in a delicate Sevres porcelain bottle, designed by the sculptor Leon Leyritz, that was inspired by the graceful hand of Jean Desprez's grandmother, a noted pianist. The white porcelain hand holds a pink rose in full bloom, while meandering vines with three dimensional pink roses are entwined around the arm, wrist and hand. The roses are painstakingly hand formed and applied. The bottle was available in three sizes: 8cm (3.14") the mini, 17cm (6.69") and 25cm (9.84") tall.







Modele Pratique: 


Another bottle for Votre Main was a square French crystal flacon fitted with a ground glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other early Jean Desprez perfumes: Etourdissant, Jardanel, and Grande Dame. I believe this model was used during the war period as the expensive flacons were unattainable due to cost and supply restrictions. The base of the box reads "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."

This bottle used for Votre Main has a lovely paper label depicting the Sevres porcelain hand vase.

Suzanne Wolfe, the company's Paris attorney, said that Desprez got most of his inspirations from looking at priceless art works while roaming the vast halls, galleries and gardens of the Palace of Versailles, something he did every autumn. He also regularly visited the Sevres Porcelain Museum to get inspiration. Wolfe explained that when Desprez sees something he likes, he has it reproduced and used it on his Christmas cards. No doubt he did the same for his perfume labels.








Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND VOTRE MAIN PERFUME BY JEAN DESPREZ


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