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Welcome to my unique perfume blog! Here, you'll find detailed, encyclopedic entries about perfumes and companies, complete with facts and photos for easy research. This site is not affiliated with any perfume companies; it's a reference source for collectors and enthusiasts who cherish classic fragrances. My goal is to highlight beloved, discontinued classics and show current brand owners the demand for their revival. Your input is invaluable! Please share why you liked a fragrance, describe its scent, the time period you wore it, any memorable occasions, or what it reminded you of. Did a relative wear it, or did you like the bottle design? Your stories might catch the attention of brand representatives. I regularly update posts with new information and corrections. Your contributions help keep my entries accurate and comprehensive. Please comment and share any additional information you have. Together, we can keep the legacy of classic perfumes alive!

Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Perfumes Isabell

In 1996, Robert Isabell, renowned for his impeccable taste as a society party planner and floral designer extraordinaire, sought to diversify his business and ensure its long-term stability. Known for his ability to create unforgettable events with breathtaking floral arrangements, Isabell recognized the potential to expand his creative vision into the realm of fragrances. Drawing upon his expertise in design and his deep appreciation for the art of scent, he launched a series of fragrances under the Parfums Isabell brand.

Isabell’s transition from event planning and floral design to fragrance creation was a natural evolution of his artistic talents. His background in crafting visually stunning and sensorially rich experiences provided a solid foundation for developing perfumes that were both luxurious and memorable. The launch of his fragrance line in 1996 was marked by a commitment to capturing the essence of elegance and sophistication, attributes that defined his previous work in floral design.

The fragrances crafted by Robert Isabell were designed to embody the same exquisite quality and attention to detail that characterized his event planning. Each scent was meticulously created to reflect a blend of opulence and refinement, capturing the nuanced beauty of the world through perfume. His ability to curate and design with a heightened sense of aesthetic and sensory pleasure translated seamlessly into his perfume creations, resulting in a collection that offered a sophisticated and enduring appeal.

This foray into the fragrance industry allowed Isabell to extend his creative influence beyond the realms of event planning and floral design, creating a stable and enduring presence in the world of perfumery. By leveraging his established reputation for elegance and his understanding of sensory experiences, Robert Isabell ensured that his fragrance line would stand out in a competitive market, appealing to those who sought both beauty and lasting quality in their olfactory indulgences.




Ground Breaking Technology:


Robert Isabell's vision for his fragrance line was to create scents that exuded natural authenticity, avoiding the synthetic and artificial aromas prevalent in the market. Determined to develop a product that captured the genuine essence of natural scents, Isabell embarked on a journey of experimentation and innovation. After several years of intensive research, he discovered Swiss research chemist Roman Kaiser at Givaudan-Roure. Kaiser’s pioneering work with headspace technology offered a revolutionary approach to scent creation. This technology allowed for the direct capture of the volatile compounds released by flowers and plants, rather than relying on the traditional method of blending essential oils.

Kaiser’s method of capturing the true essence of natural scents through headspace technology was a game-changer, and Isabell was quick to recognize its potential. Over several months, Isabell made frequent trips to Switzerland to work closely with Kaiser, refining the scents and ensuring that each fragrance met his high standards of authenticity and quality. This rigorous process allowed Isabell to develop a collection that was not only innovative but also deeply rooted in the natural world.

The fragrances crafted by Robert Isabell employed this groundbreaking headspace technology, representing a significant departure from traditional perfume-making methods. Unlike most perfume manufacturers who predominantly rely on synthetic aroma chemicals to mimic the scent of living flowers, headspace technology allowed for the direct capture of the genuine aroma. This innovative approach preserved the natural scent with unprecedented accuracy.

Isabell’s commitment to authenticity was evident in the meticulous process of creating each fragrance. The blends were a closely guarded secret, each containing a high concentration of rare, delicate, and exotic floral scents sourced from around the world. This dedication to using genuine floral ingredients ensured that the fragrances were not diluted by other notes, maintaining a pure and dazzling effect that highlighted the true essence of the flowers.

One of the distinctive features of these fragrances was their high concentration of perfume oil. With a concentration of 20%, the fragrances were significantly richer and more intense than the standard eau de toilette, which typically contains only 8% fragrance oil. This higher concentration not only enhanced the longevity and depth of the scents but also provided a more luxurious and lasting olfactory experience. The careful balance of rare floral ingredients and the advanced headspace technology combined to create perfumes that were both extraordinary and enduring, reflecting Isabell’s exceptional taste and his dedication to perfection in every aspect of his work.

Five Fragrances:


In a bold and unconventional marketing move, Isabell decided to launch five fragrances simultaneously. This decision was driven by his desire to present a cohesive and diverse range of scents that showcased his commitment to natural and genuine perfumery. The five fragrances he chose were a reflection of his creative vision and his dedication to offering something unique and exceptional.

  • Calla Isabell is characterized by its slightly spicy profile, blending the subtle heat of spices with the elegance of floral notes. It evokes the sophisticated aroma of calla lilies, adding a touch of warmth and complexity to the fresh floral fragrance.
  • Attar Isabell offers a sensuous and smoldering experience, capturing the essence of opulent, exotic blooms. Its rich and evocative scent creates a sense of mystery and allure, making it a standout choice for those seeking a deep, aromatic experience.
  • Savanna Isabell presents a springlike blend of white flowers, offering a fresh and vibrant fragrance that mirrors the beauty of a blooming spring landscape. The delicate and pure aroma of white flowers captures the essence of renewal and elegance.
  • Ceylon Isabell is inspired by exotic Southeast Asian blooms, bringing a touch of the tropics to the collection. Its fragrance is a rich and lush combination of floral notes, reflecting the vibrant and diverse flora of the region.
  • Mandarin Isabell features a clean and citrusy scent, reminiscent of the refreshing aroma of mandarin oranges. Its bright and invigorating profile makes it a perfect choice for those who appreciate a crisp and lively fragrance.

Isabell’s launch of these five fragrances not only highlighted his commitment to authenticity and innovation but also set a new standard in the fragrance industry. His use of headspace technology and his decision to introduce a diverse collection of scents at once underscored his dedication to creating perfumes that were as natural and distinctive as his floral arrangements and event designs.


Packaging:


Robert Isabell's approach to packaging his perfumes was as innovative and refined as his fragrances. He opted for sleek, lab-style bottles crafted from extruded optical glass, a choice that reflected both a modern aesthetic and a commitment to quality. The optical glass provided a crystal-clear view of the perfume inside, showcasing its pristine clarity and the artistry of the fragrance. This design choice underscored Isabell’s dedication to purity and elegance, mirroring the high standards he applied to his fragrance creations.

To ensure a perfect seal and enhance the overall experience, the caps of these bottles were lined with cork. This thoughtful detail not only provided a secure fit but also added a touch of tactile luxury. The cork lining ensured that the fragrances remained well-preserved, maintaining their integrity and longevity while also contributing to the sophisticated design of the bottles.

The perfumes were available in two sizes, 1.7 oz and 2.6 oz, offering options for different preferences and needs. This range of sizes allowed customers to choose between a more compact, travel-friendly option or a larger bottle for long-term use. Alongside the perfumes, ancillary products such as a shower gel and body lotion were introduced, expanding the fragrance experience into daily routines and providing a cohesive sensory journey.

In addition to these offerings, Isabell’s fragrance line was soon complemented by a collection of candles. These candles were designed to capture the essence of the same exquisite flowers used in the perfumes, presented in simple, clear glass pillars. The minimalist design of the candles allowed the beauty of the flame and the purity of the fragrance to take center stage, creating an elegant and understated addition to the product line. Each candle provided a subtle yet evocative scent experience, enhancing the ambiance of any space with the refined essence of Isabell’s floral creations.

Together, the packaging and ancillary products reflected Isabell’s commitment to excellence and his keen eye for detail. The sleek lab-style bottles, cork-lined caps, and carefully designed ancillary products and candles all contributed to a sophisticated and harmonious fragrance experience, reinforcing Isabell’s reputation as a master of both floral design and perfumery.


Perfumes Isabell contracted award winning Matsumoto Incorporated to design packaging for the line. Matsumoto Incorporated  is a design consulting firm specializing in graphic, package, and product design. Matsumoto Incorporated states that "The packaging for this line of perfumes broke away from typical ornate perfume packaging. The cylindrical bottles are columns of pure color and the thin walls of the bottle are barely visible. The photograph on the shipping box was taken by Irving Penn. Like the perfumes, the scented candles were packaged in simple clear glass cylinders."

The spare brushed metal boxes and simple, slim bottles created by Takaai Matsumoto for Perfumes Isabell are something of an anomaly in the perfume industry. 

Also noteworthy was the fact that "it's the first fragrance line NOT to use sex as a selling point," said Isabell. Irving Penn shot photos of single flower blooms against a simple white background.



With $15 million dollar advertising with the Albrecht Group, direct mail and inventory, Perfumes Isabell Corp. was born and was placed in the upscale shops: Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdales and Saks Fifth Avenue. He then set up a toll free number for direct sales and two years later in the early days of the internet, he launched isabell.com.

Isabell recruited 36 year old Matthew Bronfman (Seagrams heir) to be his CEO, but the partnership had soured. Dallas Haden, an industry veteran was enlisted by Isabell as a fragrance-marketing consultant, was called in to tone down the over the top business plan, and she mentioned that "part of my job was to bring some reality to Robert's goals." "It's a little art, it's a little science, it's a little inspiration," said Merle Gordon, a partner in the company, in reference to names that include Calla, Savanna and Attar.

A huge launch party for the fragrance line was held December 9, 1996 at the Mondrian Hotel in West Hollywood, California, and included such guests as actress Molly Ringwald, Loni Anderson, actor Matt LeBlanc, Bond girl Famke Janssen, Kelly Klein, Kelly Rutherford, Sharon Lawrence, Ione Skye, and supermodel Bridget Hall. On the East Coast however, his fragrances premiered at the art-filled bayfront home of Lee Schrager. In keeping with the flowers featured in the fragrances, each room was decorated in a single floral theme with flickering candles and fizzy champagne was flowing to the delight of the partygoers.

Within a couple years,  Isabell drew back from the company and Haden acquired the brand for herself. A close friend of Isabell, the artist Jennifer Bartlett stated that Robert "really thought it would be a fantastic success, and it was disappointing...but he would never show his disappointment. Robert was not a complainer,"  and he moved onto real estate instead of pursuing his fragrance venture.

Robert Isabell passed away on July 5, 2009.



The Fragrances:




Attar


Attar is classified as a sensuous spicy floral oriental fragrance for men and women. "Smoldering. Sensuous. The exotic richness of legendary flowers. A mysterious, sophisticated fragrance."
  • Top notes: lemon and ylang ylang
  • Middle notes: cloves, rose, carnation, jasmine
  • Base notes: patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, frankincense, incense, amber, musk

Scent Profile for Attar:


As you bring the fragrance close, the initial burst of lemon greets you with a bright, zesty clarity. It's a sharp and invigorating scent, reminiscent of freshly cut lemon peel, with a vibrant citrusy tang that awakens the senses. This lively note is swiftly accompanied by the exotic and sweetly floral aroma of ylang ylang. The ylang ylang adds a creamy, slightly banana-like nuance, softening the sharpness of the lemon and introducing a hint of tropical warmth. Together, these top notes create a dynamic opening, balancing freshness with an alluring floral sweetness.

As the top notes gently fade, the heart of the fragrance reveals a complex bouquet of spices and flowers. Cloves take the lead, bringing a warm, spicy depth with a subtly sweet and slightly peppery edge. This spiciness is tempered by the rich, velvety scent of rose, which adds a lush, romantic quality. The rose is deep and intoxicating, not overly sweet, but rich and full-bodied. Carnation adds a unique twist with its spicy, clove-like scent, further enhancing the spiciness introduced by the cloves. It's a floral note with a distinctive edge, bringing both warmth and a touch of earthiness. Jasmine completes the heart with its heady, intoxicating aroma, adding a lush, almost narcotic floral sweetness. The jasmine is opulent and rich, bringing an exotic and luxurious character to the blend.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge, grounding the scent with a deep and earthy foundation. Patchouli introduces an earthy, slightly woody scent, with a hint of sweet herbaceousness. It's rich and grounding, providing a strong base that anchors the fragrance. Sandalwood adds a creamy, smooth woodiness, with a subtle warmth that complements the earthiness of the patchouli. Vetiver brings a dry, grassy note, with a hint of smokiness and a slight bitterness that adds complexity to the composition.

The mystical and resinous aroma of frankincense adds a layer of depth and spirituality, with its sweet balsamic and slightly citrusy notes. Incense adds to this with a smoky, ethereal quality, evoking a sense of mystery and ritualistic allure. Amber provides a warm, sweet, and resinous undertone, adding a sensual and comforting warmth that envelops the other notes. Finally, musk adds a soft, animalic depth, rounding out the fragrance with a velvety, sensuous finish. This blend of base notes creates a rich, complex, and enduring dry down, leaving a lasting impression that is both warm and sophisticated, with a touch of exotic intrigue.


Calla


Calla is classified as a spicy floral oriental fragrance for women. "Spicy flowers in a sheer, creamy veil. A fragrance that is simply beautiful and regal."
  • Top notes; arum lily
  • Middle notes: flowers
  • Base notes:  amber, spices, vanilla

Scent Profile for Calla:


As you first inhale the fragrance, the arum lily reveals itself with a delicate, yet distinctive presence. This floral note exudes an elegant freshness, reminiscent of the dewy petals of a freshly bloomed lily. The scent is subtly green and watery, capturing the essence of a serene garden in the early morning light. It's soft and pure, with a hint of creaminess that adds a velvety texture to the fragrance's opening. The arum lily sets the stage with its understated beauty, evoking a sense of calm and grace.

The heart of the fragrance blooms with a lush bouquet of floral notes. As the arum lily gently fades, a garden of flowers unfolds, each petal releasing its unique fragrance. There’s a richness and depth to this floral medley, which might include the soft, powdery scent of iris, the sweet, honeyed tones of jasmine, and the fresh, green nuance of hyacinth. These floral scents intertwine harmoniously, creating a tapestry of delicate, yet vibrant aromas. The middle notes are not overly sweet, but rather, they possess a refined and sophisticated character, reminiscent of a classic floral arrangement. There's a touch of spiciness interwoven with the floral notes, adding an intriguing contrast that enhances the fragrance's complexity.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes come forward, enveloping you in a warm and inviting embrace. Amber provides a rich, golden warmth, with its resinous and slightly sweet aroma. It lends a sense of depth and opulence to the fragrance, creating a comforting and luxurious base. Spices add a subtle yet noticeable kick, introducing a gentle warmth and an exotic flair. The spiciness is soft and well-balanced, perhaps with hints of cinnamon or clove, adding a layer of intrigue and sophistication.

Vanilla rounds out the base, bringing a creamy, sweet softness to the composition. It’s not an overly sugary vanilla but rather a smooth and comforting note that melds beautifully with the amber and spices. This combination creates a sheer, creamy veil that lingers on the skin, leaving a trail that is both inviting and regal. The base notes of Calla provide a lasting impression of warmth and elegance, perfectly complementing the floral heart and making the fragrance a beautiful and timeless creation.





Ceylon


Ceylon is classified as a lush floral fragrance for women. "Inspired by the exotically beautiful flowers often found growing around the sacred temples of lush Southeast Asia. A sensuous and utterly modern fragrance."
  • Top notes: exotic fruits
  • Middle notes: white flowers, orange blossom, cannonball tree flowers
  • Base notes: tea, spices, incense, resins


Scent Profile for Ceylon:


As you first experience Ceylon, the fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of exotic fruits. The aroma is a captivating blend of tropical sweetness and juicy freshness. You can almost taste the ripe, succulent notes of mango and pineapple, their lush, golden flesh radiating a sunny warmth. There’s also a hint of tartness, perhaps from a touch of passionfruit or lychee, adding a zesty and refreshing twist. These fruity notes are not overly sugary; instead, they are perfectly balanced, evoking the sensation of biting into freshly harvested fruits in a tropical paradise. This lively and invigorating opening sets a bright and uplifting tone for the fragrance.

As the fruity notes fade, the heart of the fragrance unfolds into a lush bouquet of white flowers. The scent is rich and heady, dominated by the creamy and opulent aroma of white florals like gardenia and tuberose. These flowers impart a velvety, almost buttery texture to the fragrance, creating a sense of luxury and indulgence. The orange blossom adds a sweet, honeyed undertone, with a hint of citrusy freshness that lifts the floral composition, making it feel airy and luminous.

The inclusion of cannonball tree flowers brings a unique and exotic twist. This rare and fragrant bloom, often found near sacred temples in Southeast Asia, offers a sweet and slightly spicy floral note, with a hint of green freshness. It adds depth and complexity to the floral heart, enhancing the sense of being surrounded by a lush, tropical garden. The combination of these flowers creates a mesmerizing and sensuous aroma, evoking the beauty and mystery of an exotic locale.

As Ceylon settles, the base notes emerge, grounding the fragrance with a warm and exotic foundation. The scent of tea comes forward, bringing a subtle, aromatic complexity. It’s a calming and slightly bitter note, reminiscent of a freshly brewed pot of fine tea, with a soothing and comforting quality. The tea note adds an intriguing layer, giving the fragrance a modern and sophisticated edge.

Spices weave through the composition, adding a warm, slightly piquant touch. The spiciness is gentle and well-balanced, perhaps with hints of cardamom or clove, providing a subtle warmth that enhances the overall richness of the fragrance. Incense introduces a smoky, resinous depth, evoking images of sacred rituals and ancient temples. It’s a mysterious and evocative note, adding a spiritual and contemplative dimension to the fragrance.

Finally, resins add a rich, balsamic sweetness, with a hint of earthiness. This base note provides a lasting warmth and complexity, enveloping the senses in a comforting embrace. The combination of tea, spices, incense, and resins creates a deeply sensuous and sophisticated dry-down, leaving a lingering impression that is both exotic and modern. Ceylon captures the essence of an enchanting journey through lush, sacred landscapes, making it a truly unique and memorable fragrance.




Mandarin


Mandarin is classified as a light, green citrus fruit floral fragrance for women. "The fresh, clean, magical and natural aura surrounding the mandarin", the scent is of the orange blossom, not the fruit.
  • Top notes: Amalfi lemon, lime, mandarin orange, tangerine and juniper
  • Middle notes: broom, jasmine, orange blossom, cinnamon leaf, birch leaf, and pomelo
  • Base notes: gurjun balsam, musk and sandalwood

Scent Profile for Mandarin:


As you first encounter Mandarin, the fragrance opens with an effervescent burst of citrus. The Amalfi lemon and lime are crisp and zesty, their bright, tangy aromas cutting through the air like a sharp breeze. The scent of freshly squeezed lemons and limes mingles with a subtle sweetness, bringing to mind a sunlit orchard by the sea. The mandarin orange and tangerine add a juicy, sweet undertone, reminiscent of peeling the vibrant, sun-ripened fruit. Their scent is light and playful, with a soft, nectar-like quality that balances the sharper citrus notes.

Juniper adds an unexpected twist, infusing the citrus blend with a crisp, green freshness. Its piney, slightly peppery aroma introduces a touch of herbal complexity, evoking the scent of evergreen needles and crushed berries. The top notes create a sparkling, invigorating start to the fragrance, capturing the essence of a fresh, clean morning.

As the top notes begin to fade, the heart of the fragrance unfolds with a beautiful and intricate bouquet. Broom flowers introduce a delicate, honeyed sweetness, with a hint of green, herbaceous freshness. This is followed by the intoxicating aroma of jasmine, a rich, floral note that brings a lush, creamy opulence to the composition. The jasmine is soft and romantic, adding a classic floral elegance.

Orange blossom, the heart of this fragrance, emerges with its distinctive and enchanting scent. It's a floral note that is both fresh and sweet, with a slightly waxy, citrusy undertone that captures the essence of blooming orange trees. The scent is uplifting and pure, creating a magical aura that is both delicate and radiant.

Cinnamon leaf adds a subtle warmth and spiciness, introducing a hint of exotic sweetness that complements the floral notes. Birch leaf brings a fresh, green, slightly woody scent, adding a touch of earthiness and depth. The pomelo, a citrus fruit similar to grapefruit, introduces a bright, slightly bitter tang, enhancing the citrus theme with a fresh, juicy quality. The middle notes blend harmoniously, creating a light, airy floral heart that is both sophisticated and refreshing.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes provide a warm and grounding foundation. Gurjun balsam, with its resinous and slightly sweet aroma, adds a rich, balsamic undertone. It's a warm, comforting scent that brings a sense of depth and stability to the fragrance. The balsam has a subtle, woody quality that enhances the natural, earthy aspect of the composition.

Musk introduces a soft, velvety layer, adding a hint of sensuality and warmth. It's a clean, skin-like scent that melds seamlessly with the other notes, creating a smooth and enveloping finish. The musk adds a touch of softness and intimacy, making the fragrance feel personal and inviting.

Sandalwood completes the base, bringing a creamy, woody aroma with a hint of sweetness. Its smooth, milky texture adds a luxurious feel to the fragrance, grounding the fresh and floral notes with a warm, earthy undertone. The combination of gurjun balsam, musk, and sandalwood creates a delicate, natural base that lingers gently, leaving a soft, clean aura. The overall effect of Mandarin is a light, green citrus floral fragrance that captures the fresh and magical essence of the mandarin tree, from its vibrant blossoms to its verdant leaves.





Savanna


Savanna is classified as a sheer, clean, sweet fresh floral fragrance for women. "White flowers of Spring caught in glorious full bloom. A sheer, feminine, honest fragrance."
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon blossom, pear
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, magnolia, orange blossom, peony
  • Base notes: white musk, blonde woods, vanilla

Scent Profile for Savanna:


As Savanna opens, the first notes you encounter are bright and invigorating. Bergamot immediately uplifts the senses with its fresh, citrusy aroma. It's a light and sparkling note, reminiscent of the first rays of sunlight on a dewy spring morning. The scent is clean and slightly bitter, like the zest of a freshly peeled citrus fruit, with a subtle floral undertone that sets the stage for the unfolding bouquet.

Lemon blossom follows, adding a delicate floral citrus note. It's softer and more nuanced than pure lemon, with a gentle, airy quality that evokes the scent of blossoms swaying gently in the breeze. The lemon blossom is both fresh and slightly sweet, capturing the essence of springtime.

Pear adds a juicy, sweet freshness to the top notes. It’s not an overtly sugary sweetness but rather a light, crisp, and subtle aroma that balances the citrus notes beautifully. The scent of pear is like biting into a perfectly ripe fruit, its delicate sweetness mingling with the floral and citrus elements to create a refreshing and inviting opening.

As the initial citrus and fruit notes gently fade, the heart of Savanna blooms with an exquisite bouquet of white flowers. Lily of the valley introduces a fresh, green, and slightly sweet floral note. It’s a delicate and pure scent, reminiscent of tiny white bells hidden among lush green foliage. This note brings a sense of innocence and serenity, evoking the image of a spring garden in full bloom.

Jasmine adds a rich, creamy depth to the fragrance's heart. This floral note is intoxicating and lush, with a sweet, almost honeyed undertone. Jasmine’s presence is soft yet powerful, adding a luxurious and opulent quality to the bouquet.

Magnolia contributes a slightly creamy, citrus-tinged floral scent. It’s a light and elegant note, adding a subtle sophistication to the floral composition. The scent of magnolia is fresh and airy, with a gentle, velvety texture that complements the other floral notes beautifully.

Orange blossom brings a bright, sweet, and slightly waxy floral note to the mix. Its scent is evocative of sun-drenched orange groves in full bloom, with a citrusy freshness that lifts the fragrance. The orange blossom adds a joyful and vibrant touch, enhancing the overall fresh and floral character of the fragrance.

Peony adds a soft, rosy nuance with a hint of green freshness. It’s a delicate and romantic note, with a slightly powdery finish that enhances the sheer and ethereal quality of the floral heart. The peony’s scent is like a gentle breeze carrying the fragrance of a flower-filled meadow.

As the floral heart begins to soften, the base notes provide a warm and comforting foundation. White musk envelops the fragrance in a soft, clean, and slightly powdery finish. It adds a sheer and airy quality, making the fragrance feel light and skin-like. The musk gives Savanna a subtle sensuality, enhancing the feminine and honest nature of the scent.

Blonde woods introduce a light, soft woody note, adding warmth and a delicate grounding element. It’s a smooth and creamy wood scent, with a subtle sweetness that complements the floral notes without overpowering them. The blonde woods create a sense of comfort and calm, making the fragrance feel well-rounded and complete.

Vanilla adds a gentle, sweet warmth to the base. It's a soft and creamy note, not overly sugary but rather smooth and inviting. The vanilla blends harmoniously with the white musk and blonde woods, adding a cozy and comforting finish to the fragrance. It enhances the overall sweetness and softness of Savanna, leaving a lasting impression of pure, fresh florals caught in the glorious full bloom of spring. The fragrance feels light, airy, and effortlessly elegant, capturing the essence of a fresh, spring day.




Fate of the Fragrances:


The Parfums Isabell line, known for its distinctive and elegant fragrances, appears to have been discontinued after 2002. This brand, which crafted unique scents like "Savanna," "Mandarin," "Ceylon," and others, seemed to embody a niche appeal with its emphasis on sophisticated and evocative compositions. The discontinuation of Parfums Isabell marked the end of an era for many fragrance enthusiasts who appreciated the brand's dedication to creating sheer, fresh, and often floral fragrances that captured specific moods or inspirations. The fragrances often celebrated the natural beauty of various elements, such as the freshness of citrus, the lushness of white flowers, and the warmth of woods and resins. The brand's withdrawal from the market left a gap for those who cherished its delicate and honest approach to perfumery, making these scents sought after by collectors and fans who valued their unique blend of ingredients and the memories they evoked.


Parfums Isabell Candle Collection:


In 1997, Parfums Isabell introduced a limited edition votive candle called Lemon Honeysuckle, exclusively for Bloomingdale's, as part of a line named Shimmering Lights. This candle captured the delicate and fresh essence of lemon and honeysuckle, creating a scent that was both invigorating and soothing. The fragrance, with its bright citrus notes and the sweet, floral undertones of honeysuckle, was designed to evoke a sense of serene elegance, perfect for enhancing the ambiance of any space. The success of Lemon Honeysuckle paved the way for the addition of other delightful scents to the Parfums Isabell line.

The Shimmering Lights collection grew to include a variety of exquisite candles, each packaged in lightweight glass holders that showcased their luminous, enchanting aromas. Among these were Nightbloom, a scent that likely featured rich, intoxicating floral notes reminiscent of flowers that bloom in the evening, and Flowering Lemon, which would offer a refreshing citrus bouquet with a hint of blossoming sweetness. White Gingerlily Frangipani was another addition, combining the exotic, creamy notes of gingerlily with the tropical, floral scent of frangipani, creating a fragrance that was both luxurious and comforting. Green Elysium likely captured the essence of a lush, verdant paradise, with fresh, leafy green notes, while Paperwhites brought the delicate, narcotic fragrance of these dainty white flowers, known for their pure and soft scent.

In addition to the Shimmering Lights collection, Parfums Isabell also introduced the Dinner Lights collection of votive candles. These were specially curated to emit the fresh scents of garden herbs, designed to complement and enhance the dining experience. The Dinner Lights collection likely featured herbal notes such as rosemary, thyme, basil, and lavender, known for their fresh and aromatic qualities. These candles would create a harmonious and inviting atmosphere, perfect for dinner gatherings, as they subtly complemented the aromas of the food without overwhelming the senses. The inclusion of the Dinner Lights collection demonstrated Parfums Isabell's attention to detail and understanding of how scent can enhance and elevate everyday experiences, making them memorable and delightful.





Paperwhites:



In 1999, Parfums Isabell unveiled a new fragrance called Paperwhites, adding another exquisite scent to their collection. This fragrance was inspired by the delicate and pure essence of paperwhite flowers, known for their soft, narcotic aroma that exudes a subtle, elegant sweetness. The scent of Paperwhites captures the gentle beauty of these dainty white blossoms, offering a fresh and clean floral fragrance that is both uplifting and calming. It was designed to evoke the serene and tranquil feeling of a garden in early spring, where the first flowers begin to bloom, filling the air with their gentle perfume.

Accompanying the Paperwhites fragrance, Parfums Isabell also released a matching candle, allowing fans of the scent to extend its delightful presence into their living spaces. The Paperwhites candle, housed in a lightweight glass holder, emitted the same clean, floral aroma, perfect for creating a peaceful and serene atmosphere. Whether used to enhance a quiet evening at home or to bring a touch of elegance to a special occasion, the Paperwhites candle offered a soothing and inviting ambiance, making it a perfect addition to any room.

In addition to the fragrance and candle, Parfums Isabell introduced Shimmering Bath Lights as part of the Paperwhites line. These bath lights were designed to enhance the bathing experience, adding a touch of luxury and relaxation. Infused with the delicate scent of paperwhite flowers, the Shimmering Bath Lights dissolved in water, releasing their fragrance and creating a beautiful, shimmering effect. They transformed an ordinary bath into a spa-like experience, enveloping the bather in a cloud of soft, floral fragrance while the water glistened with a gentle shimmer. The introduction of Paperwhites and its complementary products highlighted Parfums Isabell's commitment to creating a cohesive sensory experience, allowing their customers to enjoy the enchanting fragrance in multiple forms, from personal perfume to home ambiance and luxurious bath rituals.

Fragrance Composition:


 Described as "lush white flowers blooming along sun-swept hills of the Mediterranean." It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance created by Robert Isabell. A member of the narcissus family, the common name of the paperwhites flower is Chinese sacred lily. The fragrance is a combination of white floral notes and soft fruity apricot. Presented in a bottle designed by Takaai Matusmoto.
  • Top notes: lemon, pomelo, mandarin, lime, gardenia, apricot
  • Middle notes: rose, orange blossom, cinnamon leaf, birch leaf, juniper berry, jasmine
  • Base notes: gurjum balsam, sandalwood and musk 

Scent Profile for Paperwhites:


As you first encounter Paperwhites by Parfums Isabell, the top notes greet you with a vibrant burst of citrus. Lemon leads with its bright, zesty sharpness, immediately refreshing and invigorating the senses. It's a crisp and clean scent, evoking the sun-kissed hills of the Mediterranean where citrus groves thrive. Following closely is the scent of pomelo, a more subdued and slightly sweeter citrus note compared to lemon, offering a fuller, more rounded citrus experience. Pomelo's aroma is like a gentle squeeze of citrus juice, with a hint of floral undertones that blend seamlessly with the rest of the fragrance.

Mandarin adds a soft, sweet citrus note, bringing a playful, juicy character to the blend. It's less tart than lemon, with a warm, sunlit quality that hints at the ripe fruit's delicate sweetness. The scent of lime, sharp and slightly tart, cuts through the other citrus notes, adding a tangy, green freshness that enhances the overall brightness of the opening.

Gardenia introduces a rich, creamy floral note to the top, softening the sharpness of the citrus with its lush, almost waxy petals. The gardenia's scent is heady and intoxicating, a white floral that is both elegant and sensual. Its presence in the top notes gives the fragrance an immediate floral depth, hinting at the lush blooms that will unfold in the heart.

The apricot note adds a subtle fruity sweetness, balancing the citrus and floral elements. It's a gentle, velvety sweetness, like the soft skin of a ripe apricot, offering a hint of warmth and a touch of juiciness that complements the fresh and vibrant top notes.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes of Paperwhites reveal a complex floral bouquet. Rose introduces a classic, timeless floral scent, with a fresh and slightly dewy quality that feels both romantic and pure. It’s a soft, powdery rose, bringing a delicate sweetness that is neither overpowering nor overly sweet.

Orange blossom adds a bright, floral-citrus note, echoing the freshness of the top notes while adding a richer, more opulent floral aspect. It's a sunny, uplifting scent, reminiscent of blooming orange trees, with a sweet, honeyed undertone that enhances the fragrance's overall warmth and allure.

Cinnamon leaf brings a subtle spiciness, adding an intriguing contrast to the floral and citrus notes. It's not as bold as cinnamon bark but offers a gentle warmth and a hint of green spice, which adds depth and complexity to the fragrance's heart.

Birch leaf contributes a fresh, green note, slightly woody and reminiscent of new leaves in spring. It adds a crisp, natural element, grounding the florals and providing a subtle earthy undertone that balances the composition.

Juniper berry introduces a slightly resinous, pine-like scent, adding a cool, aromatic quality that refreshes the floral heart. It's a subtle note that adds a touch of forest-like freshness, complementing the green and floral elements beautifully.

Jasmine, with its rich, sweet, and slightly indolic aroma, deepens the floral bouquet, bringing a luxurious and heady quality to the fragrance. Jasmine's scent is opulent and creamy, with a hint of green that ties back to the gardenia in the top notes, creating a cohesive and elegant floral composition.

In the base, Paperwhites settles into a warm and comforting embrace. Gurjum balsam introduces a resinous, slightly spicy note, adding a touch of exotic warmth and a subtle hint of earthiness. It's a grounding element that provides depth and longevity to the fragrance, anchoring the lighter, fresher notes above.

Sandalwood adds a creamy, smooth woodiness, known for its soft and slightly sweet scent. It's a luxurious and calming note, enhancing the fragrance's overall sense of warmth and tranquility. The sandalwood blends harmoniously with the other notes, adding a velvety texture and a sense of softness that lingers on the skin.

Musk provides a soft, clean finish, adding a subtle sensuality to the fragrance. It's a light and airy musk, enhancing the sheer quality of the scent without overpowering the other elements. The musk gives the fragrance a skin-like, intimate quality, making it feel personal and inviting.

Overall, Paperwhites by Parfums Isabell captures the essence of lush white flowers blooming under the Mediterranean sun, with a harmonious blend of fresh citrus, delicate florals, and warm, comforting base notes. The fragrance is both fresh and elegant, perfect for evoking the beauty of a Mediterranean spring in full bloom.


Other Candles:


By 2000, other candles in a new line called Fresh Cuttings were offered, these include:
  • Hedgeblooms, the clean energizing flavor of tender flowerlets, leaves and stems
  • Sunblooms, the scent of a perfectly cloudless, golden ripe midsummer afternoon
  • Sky Blooms, which creates a powder-soft sheer atmosphere
  • Passion Blossoms, exuding a sensuous, spice-laden darker-than-wine aroma
  • Party Blooms, the aroma of a midsummer garden
  • Blush Blooms, a uniquely sweet, feminine and delicate floral aroma
  • Night Blooms, a seductive, steady lingering fragrance that conjures up mysterious Night-blooming flowers, will gradually ignite the senses, expressly created for a couple's bedroom retreat.
In 2000, Parfums Isabell introduced the Fresh Cuttings line of candles, each crafted to capture a distinct and evocative scent, enhancing various aspects of daily life with their fragrant allure. The collection included a diverse range of candles, each designed to evoke specific moods and atmospheres through its unique aroma.

Hedgeblooms presents the clean and energizing scent of tender flowerlets, leaves, and stems. As you light this candle, you're greeted with a brisk, green aroma that feels like a breath of fresh air from a dewy garden. The scent of delicate flowers mingles with the crispness of leaves and stems, creating a refreshing and revitalizing atmosphere. It’s as if you’ve just stepped into a well-tended hedge, where the freshness of nature is at its peak, offering a revitalizing and clean fragrance that invigorates the senses.

Sunblooms embodies the essence of a perfectly cloudless, golden ripe midsummer afternoon. This candle brings forth the warmth and brightness of a sunlit day, with a scent that feels both radiant and comforting. The aroma is a blend of sun-kissed flowers and golden sunlight, evoking the lazy, blissful afternoons of summer. It fills the space with a golden warmth and a touch of sweet, floral notes, reminiscent of the serene and vibrant days spent under a clear summer sky.

Sky Blooms creates a powder-soft, sheer atmosphere, offering a delicate and airy fragrance that envelops the room in a gentle embrace. The scent is reminiscent of the light, fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky, with a soft, powdery floral quality that feels both soothing and ethereal. It’s as though you’re surrounded by a gentle mist of blooming flowers, creating a serene and calming environment that enhances relaxation and tranquility.

Passion Blossoms exudes a sensuous, spice-laden aroma that is darker-than-wine and deeply alluring. This candle’s fragrance is rich and complex, with a depth that evokes a sense of mystery and passion. The spiced floral notes create an ambiance that is both seductive and intense, perfect for setting a romantic and intimate mood. The scent lingers and evolves, drawing you in with its warm, spicy undertones and deep, luxurious floral notes.

Party Blooms captures the lively and vibrant aroma of a midsummer garden in full bloom. The fragrance is a joyful celebration of summer’s floral bounty, with a scent that is both exuberant and inviting. It brings to mind the festive atmosphere of a garden party, with a blend of fresh, blooming flowers that fills the space with a lively, cheerful fragrance. It’s a perfect choice for adding a touch of celebratory elegance to any gathering or event.

Blush Blooms offers a uniquely sweet, feminine, and delicate floral aroma. This candle’s fragrance is soft and romantic, with a sweet, powdery quality that feels tender and intimate. The scent is reminiscent of a bouquet of delicate blossoms, creating a gentle and inviting atmosphere that is both charming and elegant. It’s ideal for adding a touch of grace and femininity to any room.

Night Blooms presents a seductive, steady, and lingering fragrance inspired by mysterious night-blooming flowers. The aroma gradually ignites the senses, creating an alluring and enigmatic ambiance. This candle is specially designed for a couple’s bedroom retreat, with a scent that evolves throughout the evening to enhance intimacy and relaxation. The fragrance is deep and evocative, capturing the essence of flowers that bloom under the cover of night, creating a romantic and captivating atmosphere.

Each candle in the Fresh Cuttings line by Parfums Isabell was crafted to provide a unique olfactory experience, reflecting different aspects of nature and emotion, and designed to enhance various moments and settings with their distinctive fragrances.

9 comments:

  1. The White Gingerlily Frangipani candle was the best candle I have ever found. I wish it would be made again or I could find something similar.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, please bring it back!!!

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    2. Same! White Gingerlily Frangipani is my absolute favorite! I would love it if they decided to make them again or, as you said, find something similar.

      Delete
  2. Couldn't agree with you more. I still search online from time to time hoping something will pop up! But none so far ...

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  3. I NEED ROBERT ISABELL paperwhite fragrance

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I’m searching for something similar to the perfume Paperwhites by Robert Isabell for many, many years. It was so captivating for me and many others that loved it too. It’s very challenging to find anything similar. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!!

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  4. These were the most beautiful scented candles I have ever owned. I knew at the time I had found them that they were rare and savored the use of each one. I kept my last Nightbloom for 10 years and just lit it yesterday. It still burns slow, clean and the fragrance is top quality. Amazing creation. So sad these formulas have not continued on. Would not trust a perfumery to duplicate these delicate scents only the original chemist Roman Kaiser.

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  5. Please, please bring back NIGHTBLOOM....just found one of the candles in a closet after my mother had passed away....this candle is amazing..it must be from the late 1990's!

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  6. Nightbloom...nothing compares to this fragrance. I still have two candles left. After my husband passed away, I put them away. Now I use them sparingly to recall cherished memories. Please bring back NIGHTBLOOM.

    ReplyDelete

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