Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner c1963

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner, launched in 1963, carries a name steeped in tradition and luxury. The phrase "Cuir de Chasse" is French, translating to "hunting leather" in English and pronounced as "kweer duh shahss." The term conjures images of rugged elegance, evoking the scent of finely crafted leather goods, such as saddles or hunting gear, long associated with the outdoors and an active lifestyle. In choosing this name, Aigner tapped into an age-old connection between leather, luxury, and adventure, creating a fragrance that appeals to women seeking a scent that conveys strength, sophistication, and a casual sense of refinement.

Cuir de Chasse, being a leather fragrance for women, suggests a bold, assertive scent profile, with the rich, earthy tones of leather possibly accented by aromatic and woody notes. Leather as a fragrance note typically evokes warmth, durability, and depth, often associated with high-quality materials. The fragrance's classification as "casual" aligns with the idea of effortless elegance—perfect for women who desired to make a statement without being overly formal or ornate. At the time, this kind of scent may have appealed to women embracing a modern sense of individuality and independence, offering an alternative to the more floral or powdery fragrances dominating the market in the early 1960s.

The 1960s was a decade of cultural shifts, where traditional gender roles were being redefined, and women were asserting more independence in both the professional and personal spheres. Against this backdrop, Cuir de Chasse stood out by offering a leather-based fragrance—typically seen as masculine in perfumery—reimagined for women. Leather fragrances were already gaining popularity among men, but Aigner’s bold move to market Cuir de Chasse as a women’s scent was a departure from the floral and aldehydic perfumes that had been the standard for women in previous decades. This fragrance embodied a growing trend towards gender-neutral or androgynous elements in fashion and scent, catering to women who wanted to break away from traditional norms.

Etienne Aigner, the designer behind the fragrance, was well-known for his mastery of leather craftsmanship, primarily in luxury handbags, belts, and accessories. Born in Hungary and later moving to France, Aigner made his mark in the fashion industry with his signature leather creations. The connection to leather is intrinsic to the Aigner brand, and his expertise in working with high-quality leathers naturally translated into his fragrance line, where Cuir de Chasse became a reflection of the designer’s legacy. The name also honors Aigner's love for equestrian sports and the elegant practicality associated with hunting attire, traditionally made from the finest leathers.

By launching Cuir de Chasse, Etienne Aigner not only expanded his brand into the world of perfumery but also offered women of the time an unconventional scent that bridged the gap between rugged luxury and feminine allure. It stood apart from the opulent florals and dominant aldehydes of its era, reflecting the designer’s deep-rooted connection to leather and his understanding of how it could be both casual and luxurious at the same time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a leather fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Portuguese orange
• Middle notes: Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Florentine orris, Zanzibar clove, Arabian opoponax
• Base notes: Russian birch tar, Sumatran styrax, Canadian castoreum, Virginian cedar, Haitian vetiver, Tonkin musk, Ethiopian civet, Siamese benzoin, Maltese labdanum, ambergris, Yugoslavian oakmoss

 

Scent Profile:

The first breath of No. 1 Cuir de Chasse is a shimmer of light before the storm, a crackling aldehydic brilliance that lifts and diffuses the fragrance like the first crisp inhale of air on a brisk morning. The aldehydes sparkle with a champagne-like effervescence, their abstract, metallic fizz sharpening the citrus accord that follows. Calabrian bergamot unfurls its golden bitterness—brighter, softer, and more floral than its harsher Sicilian counterpart—before the piercing clarity of Sicilian lemon takes over, its tart zestiness reminiscent of freshly crushed rinds. The sweetness of Portuguese orange lingers in the background, warmer and rounder than typical citrus, adding a honeyed glow that tempers the sharper citrus notes. These elements dance together fleetingly, crackling like the flick of a lighter before the fire catches.

The heart of Cuir de Chasse blooms with a dark, intoxicating sensuality, where florals are not merely soft embellishments but commanding forces, deepened and enriched by spice and resins. Grasse rose, the queen of florals, reveals itself in velvety petals tinged with a faintly green, almost peppery freshness—its complexity unmatched by roses from other regions. This intertwines with Grasse jasmine, its heady, almost animalic sweetness unfurling in waves, lending the fragrance a narcotic depth. Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, sourced from the remote island off Madagascar’s coast, spills its tropical opulence into the composition, its buttery, almost banana-like creaminess forming a bridge between the florals and the richer base to come.

But just as the florals begin to soften, the scent pivots—spiced heat rises from the depths, the bite of Zanzibar clove cutting through with its warm, peppery intensity, its dry and slightly smoky profile a perfect counterbalance to the lush florals. Florentine orris, the most precious of iris roots, adds a cool, powdery softness, its buttery suede-like texture foreshadowing the leather elements that will soon emerge. The opulence of Arabian opoponax sweeps in like a slow-burning ember, its balsamic, sweetly resinous warmth tinged with whispers of honey and incense.

The base unfolds like aged leather, polished wood, and the remnants of a smoky fire lingering in the wind. Russian birch tar is the backbone, exuding a dark, smoky richness—reminiscent of smoldering wood and well-worn saddles, evoking the image of an equestrian’s well-loved riding gear or the crisp snap of a bridle under the weight of a hand. This deep smokiness is softened by Sumatran styrax, a resin that adds a balsamic sweetness, tempering the harsher edges of the tar with a caramelized, almost vanilla-like warmth.

Then, the unmistakable presence of Canadian castoreum emerges—its feral, animalic growl lending an undeniable sensuality, reminiscent of aged, sun-warmed leather and the musk of skin. Virginian cedar cuts through with its dry, pencil-shaving crispness, sharpening the smoky edges and grounding the composition with its dignified, polished woodiness. Haitian vetiver laces through, its earthy, slightly bitter greenness adding a sense of depth and rugged elegance.

As the fragrance lingers, the final animalic touches emerge. Tonkin musk, legendary for its carnal warmth, weaves through the composition like a shadow—its rich, skin-like sensuality both intimate and commanding. Ethiopian civet, with its velvety, almost floral muskiness, softens the more aggressive leather facets, making them more supple. Siamese benzoin infuses a golden, ambery warmth, its smooth, slightly vanillic sweetness merging seamlessly with Maltese labdanum, a resin with a deep, ambery richness that evokes sun-warmed leather and the dark allure of incense-filled chambers. Finally, a whisper of ambergris lingers, salty and luminous, like the remnants of a storm at sea. Yugoslavian oakmoss, with its damp, forest-floor richness, wraps around the entire composition, bringing a grounding, vintage sophistication to the dry-down.

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse is a fragrance of contrasts—light and shadow, spice and smoke, florals and leather. It is the scent of tradition and untamed wilderness, of refinement and raw instinct. It conjures the image of a rider stepping into a dimly lit stable, the scent of aged leather mingling with the crisp night air, the warmth of a horse’s breath blending with the remnants of a crackling fire. A fragrance of presence, authority, and allure—Cuir de Chasse is the embodiment of strength wrapped in elegance.

Product Line:

The Cuir de Chasse fragrance line by Etienne Aigner offered a wide range of products, tailored to suit various personal preferences and occasions, reflecting the brand's commitment to providing luxury and versatility. At the heart of the collection was the parfum, available in multiple sizes to cater to both casual wearers and perfume connoisseurs. The parfum came in 1/8 oz, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz bottles, providing options for those seeking a small, elegant splash of scent as well as those looking for a more indulgent and long-lasting experience. The variety of sizes made it accessible for daily use or as a luxurious gift, while the parfum’s higher concentration promised a rich, enduring fragrance.

Complementing the parfum were the eau de cologne splash bottles, which were available in 2 oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz sizes, as well as an impressive 1 pint after-shower cologne splash. These larger sizes were perfect for those who favored a lighter, more refreshing application of scent throughout the day. The splash-style bottle encouraged a more generous use of the cologne, making it ideal for refreshing after a bath or shower, fitting with Aigner's branding of the fragrance as casual yet sophisticated. The colognes were designed to provide a subtler scent that could be layered or worn alone for a refreshing, everyday fragrance.

The line also included a selection of bath oils, available in 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz bottles, which enhanced the luxurious experience of the collection. The bath oil, with its nourishing and fragrant properties, was designed for indulgent self-care moments, transforming an ordinary bath into a lavish ritual. The oils allowed the wearer to enjoy the Cuir de Chasse fragrance in a softer, more intimate way, as the warm water would release the scent delicately into the air while also moisturizing the skin.

Together, these offerings created a well-rounded fragrance line, allowing consumers to immerse themselves in the luxurious world of Cuir de Chasse through various products that catered to different needs, from concentrated parfum to lighter colognes and rich bath oils. This extensive product line demonstrated Etienne Aigner's attention to detail and commitment to providing a range of options to suit different lifestyles and preferences.

Bottles:

The bottle design for Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner was a reflection of the brand's core identity, blending simplicity with refined craftsmanship. The parfum bottle, in particular, was cleverly shaped to resemble a spool of thread, an homage to Aigner’s fashion heritage and his connection to luxury leather goods. This unique spool design highlighted both elegance and practicality, nodding to the world of couture, where fabric and craftsmanship are intertwined. What truly set the bottles apart was the use of genuine leather for the labels, reinforcing Aigner’s dedication to the material that defined his brand. The leather wrap gave the packaging an artisanal feel, creating a tactile connection to the fragrance itself, which evoked the richness and warmth of leather.

The stopper of the parfum bottle was adorned with the Etienne Aigner logo in gilded metal, adding a touch of opulence to the otherwise minimalist design. The use of gold contrasted beautifully with the clear glass and leather, making the bottle a luxurious accessory in its own right. The attention to detail in the stopper further emphasized the brand's commitment to elegance and high-quality materials,

The bottles used for Cuir de Chasse colognes were designed with simplicity and sophistication in mind. These clear glass cylindrical bottles embodied a minimalist aesthetic, allowing the rich golden hue of the cologne to be the focal point. The sleek, straight lines of the bottle were paired with gilded screwcaps, adding a subtle touch of luxury without overpowering the overall design. The use of clear glass highlighted the purity of the fragrance, while the gilded details provided a refined finish, characteristic of Etienne Aigner’s understated yet elegant style.

For the bath oils, the bottles were similarly designed with clear cylindrical glass, but with a notable difference in shape. The bottles featured gracefully sloping shoulders, giving them a softer, more fluid silhouette compared to the straight cylindrical form of the cologne bottles. This design choice not only differentiated the bath oils from the colognes but also evoked a sense of luxury and indulgence associated with bath-time rituals. The combination of clean lines and gentle curves maintained the brand's minimalist aesthetic while adding a touch of elegance to the bath oil packaging. Both bottles were designed to complement one another, creating a cohesive visual identity across the product line, while reflecting Aigner’s signature blend of craftsmanship and refined simplicity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner, launched in 1963, represents an enigmatic chapter in the history of perfumery. Despite its bold introduction, the fragrance remains a hidden gem, with its date of discontinuation unknown. This air of mystery adds to its allure, as the perfume seems to have quietly slipped into obscurity over the years, becoming one of the rarest finds in the world of vintage fragrances.

Its scarcity today makes it an object of desire for collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate the craftsmanship of leather fragrances from the mid-20th century. Despite its limited presence in today’s market, No. 1 Cuir de Chasse still resonates with those who remember the elegance and rugged charm of the scent, but finding a bottle has become a challenge for even the most determined fragrance enthusiasts.

The elusive nature of No. 1 Cuir de Chasse has only enhanced its appeal, as stories of its rich, leather-bound scent continue to intrigue those who seek the distinctive compositions of Etienne Aigner. Its obscurity makes it a rare treasure, a piece of olfactory history that echoes an era where leather fragrances for women were both audacious and sophisticated.