Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner c1963

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner, launched in 1963, carries a name steeped in tradition and luxury. The phrase "Cuir de Chasse" is French, translating to "hunting leather" in English and pronounced as "kweer duh shahss." The term conjures images of rugged elegance, evoking the scent of finely crafted leather goods, such as saddles or hunting gear, long associated with the outdoors and an active lifestyle. In choosing this name, Aigner tapped into an age-old connection between leather, luxury, and adventure, creating a fragrance that appeals to women seeking a scent that conveys strength, sophistication, and a casual sense of refinement.

Cuir de Chasse, being a leather fragrance for women, suggests a bold, assertive scent profile, with the rich, earthy tones of leather possibly accented by aromatic and woody notes. Leather as a fragrance note typically evokes warmth, durability, and depth, often associated with high-quality materials. The fragrance's classification as "casual" aligns with the idea of effortless elegance—perfect for women who desired to make a statement without being overly formal or ornate. At the time, this kind of scent may have appealed to women embracing a modern sense of individuality and independence, offering an alternative to the more floral or powdery fragrances dominating the market in the early 1960s.

The 1960s was a decade of cultural shifts, where traditional gender roles were being redefined, and women were asserting more independence in both the professional and personal spheres. Against this backdrop, Cuir de Chasse stood out by offering a leather-based fragrance—typically seen as masculine in perfumery—reimagined for women. Leather fragrances were already gaining popularity among men, but Aigner’s bold move to market Cuir de Chasse as a women’s scent was a departure from the floral and aldehydic perfumes that had been the standard for women in previous decades. This fragrance embodied a growing trend towards gender-neutral or androgynous elements in fashion and scent, catering to women who wanted to break away from traditional norms.

Etienne Aigner, the designer behind the fragrance, was well-known for his mastery of leather craftsmanship, primarily in luxury handbags, belts, and accessories. Born in Hungary and later moving to France, Aigner made his mark in the fashion industry with his signature leather creations. The connection to leather is intrinsic to the Aigner brand, and his expertise in working with high-quality leathers naturally translated into his fragrance line, where Cuir de Chasse became a reflection of the designer’s legacy. The name also honors Aigner's love for equestrian sports and the elegant practicality associated with hunting attire, traditionally made from the finest leathers.

By launching Cuir de Chasse, Etienne Aigner not only expanded his brand into the world of perfumery but also offered women of the time an unconventional scent that bridged the gap between rugged luxury and feminine allure. It stood apart from the opulent florals and dominant aldehydes of its era, reflecting the designer’s deep-rooted connection to leather and his understanding of how it could be both casual and luxurious at the same time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a leather fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, orange
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, orris, clove, opoponax
• Base notes: birch tar, styrax, castoreum, cedar, vetiver, musk, civet, benzoin, labdanum, amber, oakmoss

 

Scent Profile:

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner unfolds with a captivating sensory experience, as each note delicately reveals itself, conjuring images and sensations that reflect the fragrance’s leather character. The journey begins with a crisp, bright introduction before moving into a deeper, more complex heart and settling into a smoky, animalic base that lingers on the skin like the warmth of a well-worn leather glove.

The top notes greet you with a sharp, sparkling burst of aldehydes—an airy, almost metallic brightness that slices through the air like sunlight on a frosty morning. It’s a clean, abstract note, evoking the sensation of cool, polished surfaces. The aldehydes seamlessly transition into the fresh citrus tones of bergamot, lemon, and orange. These zesty fruits provide a tangy, invigorating freshness. The bergamot lends a slightly bitter edge, while the lemon is crisp and tart, sharp yet radiant, like the zest of a freshly peeled rind. The orange note is sweeter, rounding out the citrus blend with a juicy brightness, reminiscent of sun-drenched orchards. Together, they awaken the senses and set the stage for what’s to come.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart notes begin to unfold. The rich, velvety scent of rose emerges, soft yet opulent, bringing with it a touch of old-world romance. It’s delicate but unmistakable, like the petals of a freshly bloomed flower, dewy and full of life. Alongside the rose, the exotic floral warmth of jasmine rises, lending a sensual, slightly indolic quality, lush and heady. Ylang ylang adds a creamy, almost narcotic sweetness, with its unique blend of floral and fruity facets. The ylang ylang feels rich and golden, like the scent of tropical blooms carried on a warm breeze.

Balancing the florals is the powdery, earthy elegance of orris, extracted from the roots of iris flowers. It’s soft, violet-like, and slightly woody, grounding the bouquet with a refined, almost melancholic grace. The spice of clove then punctuates the floral harmony with its sharp, warm bite—its spicy sweetness adding complexity and depth to the heart of the fragrance. Finally, the mysterious resinous warmth of opoponax, or sweet myrrh, emerges. Its rich, balsamic tone adds a smoky sweetness, reminiscent of incense, giving the fragrance a mysterious, almost mystical quality.

As the fragrance settles into its base, the true leather character of Cuir de Chasse begins to take form. The dark, smoky scent of birch tar emerges first, evoking the raw, rugged scent of leather. It’s intensely smoky and woody, bringing to mind the scent of well-tanned hides and outdoor fires. The styrax, another resinous note, enhances this smokiness with its rich, balsamic sweetness, adding a slightly medicinal, amber-like warmth to the leather accord. Castoreum, with its animalic depth, introduces a primal, almost feral quality, earthy and raw, reminiscent of natural leather.

The woody strength of cedar lends a dry, slightly peppery undertone, anchoring the fragrance with a sense of stability, while vetiver adds a green, grassy smokiness, reminiscent of damp earth and roots. Musk weaves through the base, soft and powdery, adding a sensuous warmth that lingers close to the skin. The animalic richness of civet—intense and slightly wild—brings a subtle touch of warmth and exotic sensuality, blending with the other notes to create an alluring base.

The final elements—benzoin, labdanum, amber, and oakmoss—add an opulent finish to the fragrance. Benzoin contributes a sweet, vanilla-like warmth, enveloping the smoky leather in a soft, amber glow. Labdanum enhances this with its sticky, resinous quality, further deepening the warmth and adding a slightly herbal, leathery undertone. The golden, powdery richness of amber brings a final layer of warmth, creating a sense of coziness and elegance. Finally, the earthy, mossy depth of oakmoss ties everything together, grounding the composition with a forest-like freshness that contrasts beautifully with the smoky leather.

Together, these notes form a rich tapestry of scent that is both complex and comforting, evoking images of the rugged outdoors, well-worn leather, and a sense of timeless elegance. No. 1 Cuir de Chasse is a bold yet refined fragrance, a perfect embodiment of strength, femininity, and classic luxury.

Product Line:

The Cuir de Chasse fragrance line by Etienne Aigner offered a wide range of products, tailored to suit various personal preferences and occasions, reflecting the brand's commitment to providing luxury and versatility. At the heart of the collection was the parfum, available in multiple sizes to cater to both casual wearers and perfume connoisseurs. The parfum came in 1/8 oz, 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz bottles, providing options for those seeking a small, elegant splash of scent as well as those looking for a more indulgent and long-lasting experience. The variety of sizes made it accessible for daily use or as a luxurious gift, while the parfum’s higher concentration promised a rich, enduring fragrance.

Complementing the parfum were the eau de cologne splash bottles, which were available in 2 oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz sizes, as well as an impressive 1 pint after-shower cologne splash. These larger sizes were perfect for those who favored a lighter, more refreshing application of scent throughout the day. The splash-style bottle encouraged a more generous use of the cologne, making it ideal for refreshing after a bath or shower, fitting with Aigner's branding of the fragrance as casual yet sophisticated. The colognes were designed to provide a subtler scent that could be layered or worn alone for a refreshing, everyday fragrance.

The line also included a selection of bath oils, available in 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz bottles, which enhanced the luxurious experience of the collection. The bath oil, with its nourishing and fragrant properties, was designed for indulgent self-care moments, transforming an ordinary bath into a lavish ritual. The oils allowed the wearer to enjoy the Cuir de Chasse fragrance in a softer, more intimate way, as the warm water would release the scent delicately into the air while also moisturizing the skin.

Together, these offerings created a well-rounded fragrance line, allowing consumers to immerse themselves in the luxurious world of Cuir de Chasse through various products that catered to different needs, from concentrated parfum to lighter colognes and rich bath oils. This extensive product line demonstrated Etienne Aigner's attention to detail and commitment to providing a range of options to suit different lifestyles and preferences.

Bottles:

The bottle design for Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner was a reflection of the brand's core identity, blending simplicity with refined craftsmanship. The parfum bottle, in particular, was cleverly shaped to resemble a spool of thread, an homage to Aigner’s fashion heritage and his connection to luxury leather goods. This unique spool design highlighted both elegance and practicality, nodding to the world of couture, where fabric and craftsmanship are intertwined. What truly set the bottles apart was the use of genuine leather for the labels, reinforcing Aigner’s dedication to the material that defined his brand. The leather wrap gave the packaging an artisanal feel, creating a tactile connection to the fragrance itself, which evoked the richness and warmth of leather.

The stopper of the parfum bottle was adorned with the Etienne Aigner logo in gilded metal, adding a touch of opulence to the otherwise minimalist design. The use of gold contrasted beautifully with the clear glass and leather, making the bottle a luxurious accessory in its own right. The attention to detail in the stopper further emphasized the brand's commitment to elegance and high-quality materials,

The bottles used for Cuir de Chasse colognes were designed with simplicity and sophistication in mind. These clear glass cylindrical bottles embodied a minimalist aesthetic, allowing the rich golden hue of the cologne to be the focal point. The sleek, straight lines of the bottle were paired with gilded screwcaps, adding a subtle touch of luxury without overpowering the overall design. The use of clear glass highlighted the purity of the fragrance, while the gilded details provided a refined finish, characteristic of Etienne Aigner’s understated yet elegant style.

For the bath oils, the bottles were similarly designed with clear cylindrical glass, but with a notable difference in shape. The bottles featured gracefully sloping shoulders, giving them a softer, more fluid silhouette compared to the straight cylindrical form of the cologne bottles. This design choice not only differentiated the bath oils from the colognes but also evoked a sense of luxury and indulgence associated with bath-time rituals. The combination of clean lines and gentle curves maintained the brand's minimalist aesthetic while adding a touch of elegance to the bath oil packaging. Both bottles were designed to complement one another, creating a cohesive visual identity across the product line, while reflecting Aigner’s signature blend of craftsmanship and refined simplicity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

No. 1 Cuir de Chasse by Etienne Aigner, launched in 1963, represents an enigmatic chapter in the history of perfumery. Despite its bold introduction, the fragrance remains a hidden gem, with its date of discontinuation unknown. This air of mystery adds to its allure, as the perfume seems to have quietly slipped into obscurity over the years, becoming one of the rarest finds in the world of vintage fragrances.

Its scarcity today makes it an object of desire for collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate the craftsmanship of leather fragrances from the mid-20th century. Despite its limited presence in today’s market, No. 1 Cuir de Chasse still resonates with those who remember the elegance and rugged charm of the scent, but finding a bottle has become a challenge for even the most determined fragrance enthusiasts.

The elusive nature of No. 1 Cuir de Chasse has only enhanced its appeal, as stories of its rich, leather-bound scent continue to intrigue those who seek the distinctive compositions of Etienne Aigner. Its obscurity makes it a rare treasure, a piece of olfactory history that echoes an era where leather fragrances for women were both audacious and sophisticated.