Anthracite by Jacomo c1990

In 1990, Parfums Jacomo made a bold statement in the fragrance industry with the release of two distinct fragrances under the shared name Anthracite: one for men, labeled Pour L'Homme, and one for women, Pour Elle. The choice of the name "Anthracite" is particularly evocative, derived from the French word for a high-grade form of coal. Pronounced “ahn-trah-seet,” anthracite suggests both sophistication and strength, conjuring images of shimmering black surfaces and the deep allure of night. The name evokes emotions tied to luxury, stability, and power—characteristics that both men and women of the time would aspire to embody in their choice of fragrance.

The term Anthracite embodies a duality that resonates well with the contrasting yet complementary nature of the two fragrances. For men, it represents a crisp, clean scent reflecting confidence and vitality, while for women, it conveys a fresh, fruity floral-oriental allure that invites intrigue and warmth. In the early 1990s, as societal norms around gender began to evolve, fragrances like Anthracite that catered to both men and women became emblematic of a more progressive approach. Consumers were increasingly looking for scents that expressed individuality while also embracing traditional gender identities.

The feminine version of Anthracite is classified as a fresh fruity floral-oriental fragrance, characterized by a lively composition that radiates energy and sophistication. The scent features bright notes of fruits intermingling with soft florals, wrapped in a warm oriental base that adds depth and richness. This combination evokes feelings of playfulness intertwined with elegance, making it ideal for a variety of occasions. The midnight blue packaging symbolizes tranquility and depth, complementing the fragrance's refreshing and feminine character.

On the other hand, the masculine Anthracite, created by renowned perfumer Mark Buxton, is classified as a crisp spicy fougère fragrance. This scent is marked by its aromatic and woody notes, exuding confidence and strength, while the red packaging reflects passion and vigor. The interplay of spicy and herbaceous elements evokes a sense of adventure, aligning with the energetic lifestyle of men in the 1990s, who were increasingly embracing more dynamic and diverse expressions of masculinity.

The launch of Anthracite in this dual format was a notable trend in the early 1990s, a period characterized by an increasing number of "his" and "hers" fragrance lines. This marketing strategy allowed brands to cater to a broader audience while emphasizing the uniqueness of each gender's preferences. The approach was not only innovative but also aligned with the burgeoning trend of gender-specific products across various consumer markets, promoting the idea that fragrances could be tailored to reflect individual personality and style.

In conclusion, Anthracite by Parfums Jacomo stands as a significant reflection of the time, merging the concepts of traditional gender norms with modern expressions of individuality. The fragrances encapsulate the spirit of an era that celebrated both uniqueness and shared experiences, making Anthracite a compelling addition to the fragrance landscape of the 1990s.

 Anthracite pour Elle:

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh fruity floral-oriental fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: Dutch hyacinth, Spanish basil, Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon
• Middle notes: Dutch narcissus, Florentine orris root, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose, Alpine lily-of-the-valley, Tuscan violet, Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine
• Base notes: ambergris, Haitian vetiver, Virginian cedar, Grasse heliotrope, Siamese benzoin, Tonkin musk and Madagascan vanilla

Scent Profile:

Anthracite begins with a luminous cascade of Dutch hyacinth, its green, watery facets unfurling like the first breath of spring. The petals are crisp, tinged with a subtle sweetness that evokes morning dew on fresh blooms. This is immediately met by the herbaceous, almost anise-like touch of Spanish basil, its peppery greenness sharpening the floral freshness with an unexpected aromatic bite. 

Then, the sun-drenched citrus notes rush in—Calabrian bergamot, with its soft floral undertone, lends an elegant brightness, smoother and rounder than other bergamot varieties, while Sicilian lemon crackles with pure zest, a golden burst of mouthwatering tartness. These citrus notes shimmer, their volatile oils flickering like sunlight on glass before they begin to soften, melding into the fragrance’s floral heart.

The transition to the middle notes is seamless, like stepping from daylight into the embrace of a secret garden. The presence of Dutch narcissus is immediate—heady, slightly indolic, yet green and almost hay-like in its complexity, evoking fields of golden blooms swaying in the wind. This intertwines with the rich, powdery depth of Florentine orris root, an aristocratic note with a soft suede-like quality, lending a vintage elegance to the fragrance. 

A different kind of opulence soon follows: Tunisian orange blossom, with its honeyed, slightly bitter brightness, wraps the bouquet in an intoxicating white floral glow, while the sultry creaminess of Indian tuberose adds a narcotic richness that is warm, almost buttery in texture. At the opposite end of the spectrum, Alpine lily-of-the-valley whispers a delicate green freshness, like sunlight filtering through delicate white bells. Tuscan violet, with its velvety softness and subtle woodiness, deepens the floral heart, casting a gentle shadow over the bouquet. The classic grandeur of Grasse rose unfolds in sumptuous layers—at once lemony, velvety, and slightly spicy—while Grasse jasmine, intoxicating and luminous, adds an animalic warmth, its petals exuding an almost nectar-like sweetness.

As Anthracite settles into its base, the warmth of the orientalist accord takes center stage. The oceanic depth of ambergris lends a salty, almost skin-like sensuality, like warm sun on bare shoulders. This is counterbalanced by the dry, earthy elegance of Haitian vetiver, its smoky-green depth grounding the composition with a whisper of mystery. The gentle woodiness of Virginian cedar provides a smooth, pencil-shaving crispness, a refined backdrop that allows the other notes to shine. A floral softness lingers in the air, courtesy of Grasse heliotrope, whose almond-like sweetness drapes the base in a delicate, powdered warmth. 

Siamese benzoin, rich and balsamic, exudes a resinous golden glow, wrapping the fragrance in a cocoon of warmth that echoes the earlier floral notes. Then comes the unmistakable presence of Tonkin musk, its sensual, animalic whisper enhancing the depth of the blend, making it feel almost like a second skin. Finally, the luxurious creaminess of Madagascan vanilla emerges, its rich, buttery warmth adding a final touch of indulgence—sweet but never cloying, a lingering caress that stays long after the fragrance has faded.

Anthracite is a fragrance of striking contrasts—light and shadow, freshness and depth, floral delicacy and oriental sensuality. It moves with effortless grace, shifting between luminous florals and warm, resinous woods, each note revealing a new facet of its multifaceted beauty. It is both bold and elegant, modern yet timeless—a fragrance that commands attention in the most effortless way.

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Anthracite pour l’Homme:

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a crisp spicy fougère fragrance for men.

• Top notes: French lavender, Persian galbanum, Florida grapefruit, Hawaiian pineapple, Jamaican pepper, La Crau cypress, Calabrian bergamot, Turkish marjoram, Siberian tarragon and Belgian angelica
• Middle notes: Mitcham lavender, Zanzibar cloves, Greek cyclamen, Italian orris root, Comoros ylang-ylang, Egyptian jasmine, French carnation and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Tibetan musk, Tyrolean oakmoss, Virginian cedar, Venezuelan tonka bean and ambergris

Scent Profile:

The first impression is an arresting interplay of herbaceous sharpness and vibrant citrus, an introduction that commands attention like the crisp air of dawn sweeping through untamed fields. The cool, camphorous edge of French lavender leads the way, its aromatic sharpness layered with the slightly balsamic green bitterness of Persian galbanum, a note that exudes the scent of crushed leaves and wild sap. A flash of Florida grapefruit follows, bursting open with mouthwatering zest, its tart brightness more floral and less bitter than its Mediterranean counterparts. This is countered by the sun-ripened, juicy tang of Hawaiian pineapple, its golden sweetness adding an unexpected twist—a radiant, tropical warmth that flickers beneath the citrus coolness.

Heat builds as Jamaican pepper asserts itself, its piquant spice tingling the senses with an almost smoky sharpness, its warmth tempered by the deep green, resinous character of La Crau cypress, sourced from the storied plains of Provence. The crisp snap of Calabrian bergamot cuts through, its citrus brilliance refined and polished, smoother than its Sicilian cousin, with a slight floral nuance. Then, an herbaceous complexity emerges—Turkish marjoram, with its peppery, slightly minty sweetness, harmonizes with the cooling licorice-like sharpness of Siberian tarragon, a note that lends an almost metallic edge. Finally, Belgian angelica drapes the top accord in its unique, musky-green earthiness, a raw, root-like depth that foreshadows the fragrance’s evolution into something darker and more mysterious.

As the top notes settle, the heart of Anthracite emerges, unfolding like an intricate tapestry woven with florals and spices. The cooling lavender deepens with the presence of Mitcham lavender, an English variety prized for its exceptional purity and richness, its camphoraceous clarity adding an almost medicinal sharpness. In contrast, Zanzibar cloves smolder with their exotic warmth, their rich, slightly smoky bite mingling with the peppery heat of the earlier notes. Greek cyclamen enters like a breath of fresh air, its delicate, almost watery floral quality lending a dewy softness amidst the aromatic intensity.

Then comes the powdery, velvety depth of Italian orris root, its iris-like luxury reminiscent of aged suede, both cool and buttery in texture. The exotic floral sensuality of Comoros ylang-ylang blooms next, its heady, banana-like creaminess adding a narcotic, almost solar quality to the blend. This warmth intertwines with the sensual allure of Egyptian jasmine, its opulent, honeyed richness unfolding like sun-warmed petals. French carnation, with its subtly clove-like spiciness, bridges the gap between floral and spice, creating a beautifully textured interplay. Finally, Bulgarian rose rises through the composition, a deep, velvety red floral note with a hint of green, its richness both regal and subtly earthy, adding a layer of sophistication to the heart of the fragrance.

As Anthracite moves into its dry down, the base becomes a rich, lingering warmth of woods, resins, and sensual musks. The unmistakable creaminess of Mysore sandalwood makes its presence known—velvety, slightly smoky, and deeply resinous, its legendary smoothness grounding the composition in an almost sacred warmth. Tibetan musk follows, a rare and sensual note that adds an animalic depth, reminiscent of skin touched by heat and time. The deep green dampness of Tyrolean oakmoss emerges next, its earthy, slightly leathery richness grounding the fragrance with a classic fougère structure, evoking the cool shade of a moss-covered forest floor.

A touch of Virginian cedar adds a dry, almost pencil-shaving crispness, sharpening the edges of the warmer notes before melting into the gentle, nutty sweetness of Venezuelan tonka bean, which lends a vanillic softness with a hint of tobacco. Finally, the elusive depth of ambergris lingers—a salty, almost skin-like sensuality that is both warm and cool, a whisper of the ocean’s mysteries that ties everything together in a seamless, lingering embrace.

Anthracite is a fragrance of striking contrasts—cool and warm, crisp and smooth, raw and refined. Its fougère structure is meticulously woven with floral and spicy nuances, creating a scent that feels both classic and unexpected. It is a fragrance of confidence, a bold composition that leaves an indelible impression, like the last rays of light reflecting off polished stone at twilight.

 

Fate of the Fragrances:

Both Anthracite Pour L'Homme and Anthracite Pour Elle, the intriguing fragrances launched by Parfums Jacomo in 1990, have since been discontinued, though their presence lingered in the market as late as 1995. During that time, they were offered at a substantial 30% discount off their original retail prices, signaling a shift in consumer interest and perhaps a dwindling stock. This discount not only reflected the changing dynamics of the fragrance market but also hinted at the challenges faced by the brand in maintaining its foothold amid an increasingly crowded field of offerings.

The decision to discontinue these scents may stem from evolving fragrance trends, consumer preferences, or broader shifts in the industry landscape, which often sees brands striving to remain relevant. While both fragrances carried a unique character at the time of their release, the fast-paced nature of the perfume market can render even popular scents obsolete as new and innovative offerings emerge. However, the legacy of Anthracite remained, especially for those who fondly recalled its crisp and spicy compositions.

Interestingly, it appears that the male version, Anthracite Pour L'Homme, experienced a revival of sorts in the mid-2010s, having been reformulated and reissued. This resurgence reflects a renewed interest in classic fragrances and a desire to adapt beloved scents for contemporary audiences. By revisiting and refining Anthracite, Jacomo sought to bridge the gap between nostalgia and modern sensibilities, allowing a new generation to experience the allure of this once-discontinued fragrance. The reformulation likely involved a careful balancing act of retaining the original essence while updating it to align with current trends and preferences, showcasing the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and innovation in the ever-evolving world of perfumery.

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