Gallery of Antique Austrian Crystal Perfume Bottles

In this gallery, I present to you your next obsession: antique crystal perfume bottles from Austria. These exquisite pieces were crafted during the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which existed from 1867 to 1918. This vast empire encompassed regions that now lie within the borders of Austria, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Slovenia, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Italy, Poland, Romania, Serbia, and Ukraine. After 1918 to about 1939 or so, the bottles were still being made, in mass quantities and exported into the United States.

In essence, these craftsmen were continuing a long-standing tradition of creating opulent works of art. I hold a special affinity for these objects, as they hail from a region that reflects a significant part of my ancestry.

Many of these beautiful flacons were sourced from Czechoslovakia—or from Bohemia prior to 1918—and later fitted with gilded bronze mountings in Austria. These mountings were further adorned with enamel and glass jewels. The luxurious settings often feature bezel-set faux gems, representing stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, coral, agate, diamond, jade, ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, opal, and pearl. The glass, produced by large manufactories, was sometimes sent to secondary workshops for additional refinement, such as cutting, polishing, painting, gilding, or silvering, before being fitted with the bronze mountings—either by the same workshop or a different one.

Several notable Czechoslovakian firms, including Johann Umann, FJ Vater & Co, Josef Leder, Oswald Elstner, and Grossmann & Distelbarth, were involved in the production and sale of these bottles. They often sourced glass blanks from Carl Riedel’s factory in Josefstal, Czechoslovakia. Riedel’s factory produced molds that were exclusive to Grossmann & Distelbarth, ensuring a unique product.

These perfume bottles, whether atomizers or dauber types, come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. It’s not uncommon to find the same design in different colors or as part of a set with matching pieces, like powder boxes or other flacons. The crystal is typically found in transparent shades such as amethyst, cobalt blue, canary yellow (Annagelb), emerald green, ruby red, garnet red, cranberry, pink, amber, aqua blue, uranium glass (Annagrun, Eleonorengrun), black, and clear. The glass is often cased, where a darker outer layer is cut to reveal a clear base, though opaque glass in solid colors like black, coral, or malachite is also used.

These bottles were imported into the USA by companies such as W.H. Schmidt, located at 200 Fifth Avenue, New York, and J.W. Levy Corporation at 892 Broadway, New York.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 16, Archibald C. Merrin, 1925:

"The standard of perfection in glass is that it should be as clear as crystal, the finest specimens with nicety of construction and perfect harmony in stoppering are only to be obtained in good Bohemian glass, cut bottles. They give to the finished perfume just the appearance that charms the most discriminating buyer, and the progressive perfumer appeals through the medium of the container for public patronage. Perfect beauty in cut glass has been attained and the principal modifications have been in the direction of improving the quality of the glass and increasing the polish. There has been much rich gilt and silver embellishments to neck and stopper, and deep cut floral engraving and enamelling which seem to be greatly in favour. It is true that the older complex patterns, as the square cut all over, and hobnail cut, are now in less favor than quieter designs with deep cutting, but it cannot be said that one has entirely displaced the other. The square cut mushroom remains the most widely used, its being the best adaptable to the smaller sizes now so much in demand. The oblong square takes next place, and both are occasionally very nicely engraved, and sometimes fitted with gold and silver stopper coverings and necks. On the other hand, certain styles of cut decoration and shapes have quite gone out of fashion, owing to the numerous imitations that have been brought in pressed glass. There has been much applied to the older patterns to vary their shape, and engraving is being very cleverly executed speciality firms."

Trade Agreement Between the United States and the Czechoslovak Republic,- United States Tariff Commission, 1938:

"Most perfume bottles imported from France are used for packaging and selling perfume. French bottles are made from high-quality crystal, with stoppers, and come in unique shapes and designs that aren't typically made in the U.S.

On the other hand, many of the perfume bottles from Czechoslovakia and Japan are mostly decorative, not necessarily meant for holding or transporting perfume. In 1936-37, only a few bottles from Czechoslovakia were used to package perfume. Most Czechoslovakian bottles are made of colored glass, mainly blue, amethyst, and amber, with detailed cut designs and stoppers that include applicators. They are priced between 40 cents and $15, with about three-quarters of them selling for $1 to $2 each.

Perfume and cosmetic bottles are made in several countries, including France, Czechoslovakia, Germany, England, Belgium, Austria, Italy, Spain, Japan, and others. France is the top producer of high-quality perfume bottles, while Czechoslovakia is known for making decorative ones.

Perfume makers often choose distinctive bottles that make their products stand out in the public's mind. Imported perfume bottles are mostly handmade, with smaller demand, while bottles made in the U.S. are produced in larger quantities for mass production.

Decorative bottles, which are usually hand-blown, are mostly imported from Czechoslovakia and Japan and sold in chain and department stores. The U.S. makes fewer decorative bottles, and they are generally more expensive than imported ones. However, U.S.-made decorative bottles are not as elaborately designed as those from Czechoslovakia. The main competition for Czechoslovakian bottles in the U.S. comes from Japanese-made bottles."

In a 1937 court case, UNITED STATES v HW ROBINSON & Co. (No 4116) explained how some of the atomizers were assembled.

The case was about glass perfume bottles and atomizers (devices for spraying perfume) that were assembled from separate parts. The glass bottles and metal parts were bought separately, then put together and imported as complete items. The court ruled that these completed items should be taxed based on their export value.

c. There was strong evidence that the glass parts of these bottles and atomizers were openly sold to anyone in large quantities in the main market of Czechoslovakia. The same applied to the metal mountings that were attached to the bottles—they were sold in large quantities, with the cost of attaching the metal parts included in the price.

d. The court also found that buying these parts and assembling them this way was a common business practice in Czechoslovakia. There was no evidence that this type of merchandise was bought or exported to the U.S. in any other way.

The products in question were imported by De Boer & Livingston Inc., a company based in New York City that dealt in perfume bottles and dresser sets. (They were still in business in 1957.)

One Mortimer P. Livingston, president of the importing corporation, De Boer & Livingston, Inc. With respect to the merchandise here involved, he testified that he bought it personally in Gablonz, Czechoslovakia, during one of his periodical visits to that country. With respect to his method of purchasing the mounted bottles and atomizers he testified in the instant case as follows: 

Q. Now Mr Livingston will you please tell us how you buy the merchandise of the kind under consideration, namely, mounted bottles and atomizers, when you go to Europe with the object of buying, and how you did buy the merchandise covered by the individual reappraisements now before the court:

A. The representative of W Klaar our commissionaire takes me around to the various manufacturers of perfume bottles I make a selection of these bottles.

Q. From samples submitted to you?

A. From samples which I see in the various factories. After we have selected a great many of these bottles the representative of Klaar then takes me to a jewelry mounter of these metal goods. We select from an assortment which he also has there we select our styles we are interested in and Klaar then has these bottles shipped to the metal mounter who in turn puts the trimmings on the bottles 

Q. Being the bottles that you selected with Klaar's representative and the mountings which you selected with Klaar's representative is that right?

 A. That is correct. Then the bottle is finished by the jewelry mounter and is returned to Klaar complete. 

Q. Then what? 

A. Then I purchase the complete bottle from Klaar. I have repeatedly supplied bottles, jars, and atomizers decorated in a similar manner with metal and stones. 

It appears from the testimony that there were several other importers in the United States who purchased in Gablonz through a commissionaire, metal mounted perfume bottles and metal mounted glass atomizers in the same manner. The parties interviewed claimed that they were free to sell any of the articles shipped to the United States by them to any customer in countries other than the United States, but that besides the atomizers, nobody would buy metal mounted glassware except a few pieces for the tourist trade that being an article appealing only to American customers. At that time, there was no market in Czechoslovakia for this or similar merchandise. Practically all purchasers in the United States transacted their business in the same manner. The witness named several firms in the United States who purchase competitive and similar merchandise.

In order to purchase a complete perfume atomizer from Klaar, Livingston would purchase an atomizer base, then place an order with Klaar who would then purchase the atomizer mounting, and assembled the atomizer by putting the top part on the glass base. Hans Klaar, co owner of the firm of W. Klaar, Gablonz, declared that all the atomizer mountings supplied by him 1933 to the firm of De Boer & Livingston Inc., New York, were manufactured by Bruder Rachmann Metallwerke, Haida. 

The stopper alone was supplied by Franz Stefezius, Josefsthal.

Livingston said, "The representative of W Klaar, our commissionaire, takes me around to the various manufacturers of perfume bottles. I make a selection of these bottles. From samples which I see in the various factories. After we have selected a great many of these bottles, the representative of Klaar then takes me to a jewelry mounter of these metal goods. We select from an assortment which he also has there, we select our styles we are interested in and Klaar then has these bottles shipped to the metal mounter who in turn puts the trimmings on the bottles. Then the bottle is finished by the jewelry mounter and is returned to Klaar complete. Then I purchase the complete bottle from Klaar." 

He said that when he purchases a perfume atomizer, he purchases also the atomizer base through the representative of Klaar, then Klaar then purchases the atomizer mounting and assembles the atomizer by putting the top part on the glass base. The witness named several firms in the United States who purchase competitive and similar merchandise to that at bar and was emphatic that Klaar is not a manufacturer but a commissionaire and exporter.

Defendant's witness Harry Marks testified he is connected with Marks & Rosenfeld, importers of "china glass and imported merchandise" from Czechoslovakia; and that he visits Czechoslovakia to purchase for his firm and was there during April October and November 1933 buying through an agent in Gablonz; that he collected his bottles first, then saw a mounter and obtained his price on the mounting and after selecting the mounting; directed his agent to deliver the bottles to the mounter. so that the mounting could be placed thereon; that when the bottles were finished they were sent back to the agent for packing and shipping to his firm in the United States; that he also bought "quite a quantity of a completed bottle" that the price was cheaper "where we bought the bottle separately and where we bought the mounting separately" than it would be to buy the complete bottle; that his agent is remunerated by commission; that the bottles he buys are offered in the domestic market both mounted and unmounted. 

Defendant's witness Rice testified he is connected with Irving W Rice & Co importers of toilet bottles and atomizers from Czechoslovakia; that he was buying there in May and June 1933; that the merchandise in question was of the same general character as that he imported. He then described his method of purchase as follows:

"We have a commissionaire located in Gablonz with whom we visit the various manufacturers making bottles and we make our selections of bottles and then we visit the maker of the mountings and we make our selections and the two are combined. The two are attached and returned to the commissionaire and forwarded to us."

He then pays his commissionaire and pays his agent the price the agent pays the manufacturer with the mountings attached, plus the carton, etc. 

Defendant's witness Lou D. Bloom testified he is also with Irving W Rice & Co; that he handles merchandise similar to that now before the court, and does some of the buying in Czechoslovakia; that he was there in May and June and November and December 1933; that his procedure in purchasing was through an agent, and was the same as that described by the previous witness, with a commission to the agent of 10 per centum; that there are other buyers competing with his firm "buying for export to America" merchandise "that may vary in detail but come within similar price ranges." His testimony as to his method of doing business was similar to that of other witnesses purchasing this character of merchandise in Czechoslovakia.

In the affidavit of Rudolf Pohl, he stated he supplied bottle mountings between May and December 1933 to W Klaar Gablonz for the plaintiffs De Boer & Livingston.  "I herewith declare that all these mountings were contained at the time in my sample collection and that these and similar designs in similar price ranges could also be ordered from me and actually were ordered from me by other customers." 

He gives the names of three firms in the United States for whom he has "executed similar bottle mountings" in addition to De Boer & Livingston.

The affidavit of Mr Josef Schmidt, a manufacturer of bottles, gives the prices of bottles supplied to Klaar from to December 1933 for De Boer & Livingston, and states that bottles were always exhibited in his sample room and could bought from him at similar price ranges by any customer the same period.

In the affidavit of Robert Seibt, manufacturer of perfume bottles, testifies that is to the same effect as to bottles supplied by him to Klaar for De Boer & Livingston during April to December 1933. He also states he has sold similar goods during this period to other customers for export at the same price .

The affidavit of Alfred Schoeler is to the same effect as the foregoing as to bottles supplied to Klaar for De Boer & Livingston and the sale of similar articles for export to the United States.

The same is true of the affidavit of Wilhelm Rachmann as to atomizer mountings manufactured by him for Klaar for De Boer & Livingston during May to December 1933 and the sale of similar mountings to others for export to the United States.

The affidavit of Hans Klaar of the firm of W Klaar, Gablonz, is to the effect that all atomizer mountings supplied by him between May and December 1933 to De Boer & Livingston were manufactured by Rachmann Metallwerke, Haida, and that the prices of the atomizers on all his invoices to De Boer & Livingston are in no case lower than the costs of the bottles plus costs for attaching the mounting and that the prices for decorated perfume bottles on all his invoices to said firm are in no case lower than the costs of the bottles plus costs of the metal ornament including the costs for attaching the mounting.

W. Klaar acts as the United States importers buying commissionaire for the Gablonz district and charges a 10 commission for his services which consist of placing orders with the different makers located in and around Gablonz inspecting and packing the goods when delivered to his premises, paying the different makers of the goods and shipping the merchandise. W Klaar shipped to the United States, the separate parts purchased by W Klaar from the manufacturers and combined into the finished articles on the premises of W Klaar or by the home workers under W Klaar's orders and directions. 

The of the plaintiffs being a member of the plaintiff firm purchases through Mr Klaar perfume bottles of the character and design he desires selecting such from an examination of various samples produced by different manufacturers of such bottles He then is taken by Klaar to a jewelry mounter having metal parts for the bottles The styles desired are selected from the assortment of the jewelry mounter who usually places the metal mountings on the bottles finishes the article and returns it to Klaar complete that in some cases Klaar himself assembles the two parts of the atomizer viz the bottle and the metal mountings by putting the top part on the glass base. The completed articles are then shipped by Klaar to the importers in the United States. The occasional assembly of the two parts by Klaar does not render him the manufacturer of this merchandise. 

He merely introduced the importers to the manufacturers, received the merchandise, packed it and shipped it to the United States. Occasionally, he assembled some bottles and mountings received by him from the manufacturers and made a charge for doing so.

Pierre Vivion

 Pierre Vivion, a French perfume chemist, worked for Lanvin in 1953. He was involved with a prior copycat fragrance co called Sherrell at some point, which went out of business in 1976 after getting involved in some sort of lawsuit. 

Gingham by Bath and Body Works c1993

Launched in 1993, Bath & Body Works' Gingham arrived at a time when the fragrance market was becoming increasingly diverse, with a notable shift towards fresh, clean, and natural scents. This period saw a growing consumer preference for fragrances that evoked purity and simplicity, diverging from the more opulent and intense perfumes of the previous decades. The early 1990s were characterized by a trend towards light and airy compositions, often incorporating floral and citrus notes that conveyed a sense of freshness and vitality.

Gingham's description as a "fresh blend of bright florals & a hint of sweet citrus" aligns perfectly with the era's emerging trend. During this time, there was a marked move away from heavy, complex fragrances towards more straightforward, natural scents. This change was influenced by broader cultural shifts towards health and wellness, where consumers began to seek products that were perceived as more wholesome and less synthetic. The popularity of films and media from the early 1990s also reflected these themes, with movies often celebrating natural beauty and simplicity, echoing the sentiments embodied by Gingham.

The name "Gingham" itself evokes a sense of classic Americana, referencing the traditional checkered fabric that is often associated with wholesome, rustic charm. Gingham fabric is known for its simple, enduring pattern, often seen in country and casual wear. By naming the fragrance "Gingham," Bath & Body Works tapped into this nostalgic imagery, suggesting a fragrance that is both timeless and grounded in everyday American life. The name conjures images of a quaint, homey atmosphere, characterized by simplicity and warmth.

this photo shows the original line of Gingham

Women of the early 1990s would likely have been drawn to a perfume named "Gingham" for its association with freshness and purity. The fragrance's light and clean profile would have appealed to those seeking a break from the more complex, heavy perfumes of the previous decades. The word "Gingham" would be interpreted as a symbol of straightforward, natural beauty, evoking a sense of nostalgia and comfort. Women responding to this perfume would appreciate its simplicity and the way it aligns with a trend toward more natural and gentle products, resonating with a desire for authenticity and purity in their beauty routines.

Tropiques by Lancome c1935

Lancome Tropiques: launched in 1935. Created by Armand Petitjean. Tropiques was inspired by the tropical port of Bahia in Brazil and the perfume reportedly took four years to be completed. Tropiques was one of the first five Lancome perfumes to be presented at the Universal Exhibition in Brussels, the others were Tendre Nuit, Bocages, Conquête and Kypre.

Parfums Jean Pax

Jean Pax, was a small time perfumer in Paris that seemed to specialize in perfumes most likely meant for the tourist souvenir trade.

In 1977, Jordan Marsh department store carried some of the Jean Pax Parfum and Parfum de Toilettes (Salambo, Val d'Ete and Ebonia). The store advertised that it had discovered this "secret" perfume company in Paris and wanted to share the perfumes with its customers in America.

Also available was Jean Pax's Talika Cream Conditioner for lengthening and conditioning the eyelashes. The advertisement I saw claimed that the cream has been sold with "extraordinary success for 25 years" and sold in 72 countries. Talika Cream was manufactured in Paris by Danielle Roches for Jean Pax, Inc.

The perfumes of Jean Pax:

• 1953 Ebonia
• 1960 Val d'Ete relaunched in 1988
• 1960 Salambo
• 1960 Royal Mink
• 1994 MCM Parfum 
• 1994 MCM 1900
• c1998 or earlier, MCM Blue Paradise
• c1998 or earlier, MCM Twenty Four Evening 
• c1998 or earlier, MCM Twenty Four Morning

Salambo was an exotic oriental type perfume, the "very epitome of sensuous Oriental expression.

 Val d'Ete was "vibrant with the freedom of freshness and youth", suitable for blondes. First launched in 1960, the fragrance was revived in 1988 with a "light freshness of jasmine, rose and other florals."

Ebonia, a spicy, sophisticated perfume, was suggested to be worn by the "poetic and imaginative lover".

These fragrances were available in the following:

• 1/2 oz Parfum in crystal bottle and handmade box
• 1 oz Parfum  
• 1.25 oz Parfum de Toilette
• 5 oz Parfum de Toilette

The 1/2 oz Parfum was housed in a fancy crystal bottle and a handmade presentation box as sketched in the advertisement shown above, this retailed for $45 in 1977. The 1 oz bottle of Parfum was simple and not as fancy, it retailed for $27. 

These perfumes have been discontinued since the early 1980s I believe.

The MCM line of fragrances was distributed by Parfums Jean Pax.

MCM Parfum  is described as an "oriental with a top note of modern fruity green over a citrus complex. Has a unique accord of rose and jasmine. The drydown is sweet, warm-ambery and woody-powdery."

MCM 1900 is described as "a rare blend, using traces of "living" flower scents. The bouquet is highlighted by an accord of white flowers. Precious woods with a dominant sandalwood note wrapup and enrich it further. As it dries down, hints of oriental spices and an ambery sweetness."

MCM Blue Paradise is described as having a "top note that is derived from a combination of green elements with modern, fruity tropical accents, very vivacious and youthful. The bouquet is tender and original. White floral touches predominate, and are supported by living flower technology. The base is marked by a very harmonic chord composed of powdery, woody, warm, sweet amber and oriental elements."

MCM Twenty Four Evening is composed of warm sensual woods, and the exotic, spicy aromas of ambergris, sandalwood, ginger and pepper, provide an oriental character. The primary scent is flowery-aromatic, ith traces of fresh fruit.

MCM Twenty Four Morning is fresh and contemporary, with cool citrus extract. Rare woods and elegant floral accents and warm traces of amber and musks, provide the expressive basis.

Lys Bleu by Prince Henri d'Orleans c1982.

In 1984, Jean Pax introduced the perfume Lys Bleu by Prince Henri d'Orleans. It was originally distributed in 1982 by Parfums et Beaute Amerique of Miami, Florida.

It is a generous perfume composed of over 100 separate essences. A head of blackcurrant, verbena and the May rose of Provence, the body of tuberose, apricot and ylang ylang, impressioned by honeysuckle, with clove setting off crocus and hyacinth; and amber and musk.

• Top notes: blackcurrant, verbena, apricot, plum, aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, apple, galbanum
• Middle notes: crocus, hyacinth, narcissus, Provencal rose de mai, tuberose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, honeysuckle
• Base notes: amber, musk, clove, oakmoss, civet, sandalwood, tobacco, incense, orris

 

Les Parfums du Lido

Les Parfums du Lido was established at 78 avenue Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1927.

Di Borghese by Borghese c1978

Di Borghese by Borghese: launched in 1978.

Collecting Perfume Labels

If you are looking for something unusual and perfumery related , then the perfume's label itself would fit the bill nicely. Perfume labels are so varied that one could collect various types from Art Nouveau and Art Deco to particular brands such as Guerlain or Coty. From paper labels to embossed metal labels, there are so many to choose from. Some people like put them into albums, while others enjoy framing and hanging them on the wall. 

Maxim's de Paris c1984

Maxim's de Paris launched by Maxim's de Paris in 1984. In association with Pierre Cardin Parfums, Jacqueline Cochran and SNDPIM. Created by Dominique Ropion.

Sotto Voce by Laura Biagiotti c1996

Sotto Voce by Laura Biagiotti: launched in 1996. Sotto Voce means "whisper" in Italian. The perfume was created by Sophia Grojsman.

Halston Night by Halston c1980

Halston Night by Halston: launched in 1980.

L'Orle

L'Orle (Pronounced Lor-lay). A perfume house opened in Paris in 1934 by A.T. Levy, initially to sell the perfume Cafe Society. Not long after, he opened a branch in New York, aiming his sales at the middle class American market.

Collecting Red Glass Commercial Perfume Bottles

In this guide, I will introduce you to the wonderful world of commercial perfume bottles made up of red glass. The allure of these bottles lies not only in their aesthetic appeal but also in the history and craftsmanship behind them. Most of the bottles in this guide date to the 1920s and 1930s period.

Starting a collection with a specific focus, such as red glass perfume bottles, can add a unique dimension to your hobby. It provides a clear direction and allows you to curate a cohesive and visually stunning collection.

When embarking on this journey, consider exploring various sources such as antique shops, flea markets, online auctions, and specialized collector forums. You may encounter a diverse range of designs, from simple and utilitarian to ornate and intricately decorated bottles.

It's essential to educate yourself about the different styles, manufacturers, and historical context surrounding these bottles. This knowledge will not only enhance your appreciation for the pieces you acquire but also help you make informed decisions when assessing their value and authenticity.

As your collection grows, documenting each acquisition with details such as the maker, design characteristics, and acquisition date can enrich your understanding of the evolving trends in perfume bottle design and production.

Additionally, connecting with fellow collectors can be a rewarding aspect of the hobby. Exchanging insights, sharing discoveries, and participating in community events or exhibitions can deepen your engagement with the subject and foster meaningful connections with like-minded enthusiasts.

Remember, collecting is as much about the joy of discovery and appreciation as it is about the tangible objects themselves. So, immerse yourself in the enchanting world of red glass perfume bottles, and let your collection reflect your passion and individual style!

Most of the opaque glass perfume bottles that you will encounter was manufactured by the French company, Cristalleries de Nancy between 1924-1934 and came in various colors such as red, green, black, purple and both turquoise blue and yellow ochre being the rarest. These bottles were produced for the following perfume companies: d'Alamode, Bischoff, du Bois, Bourbon, Burdin, de Burmann, Chenier, Drialys,  Marie Magdeleine, Miga, Offenthal, Renaud, Serey and plenty of others. You will see a variety of sizes ranging from 6 1/8" tall down to 2 1/8" tall. I have also seen these perfume bottles called slag glass.

Antique Victorian Double Ended Scent Bottles

In the second half of the 19th century scent bottles and smelling salt bottles, known then as "double smelling bottles", were necessary objects for the well to do lady. However, the old fashioned silver vinaigrette container with its pierced grille was no longer in style and was hardly used. Someone came up with an ingenious new container to combine both of milady's indispensables that could be tucked into a muff or hand bag or perhaps serve its purpose on the vanity table. 

Double bottles were not a new invention per se, known as "gimmel flasks" they had been used since the 1600s to hold oil and vinegar, pharmaceuticals or liquors, however, these usually stood on a common foot to stay upright. In mid-century England, the original idea of fusing two bottles end to end with openings at each extremity was realized as a convenient receptacle..

These bottles were meant to hold perfume at one end, and ammoniated smelling salts or a sponge saturated with scented vinegar at the other. The bottles were made by welding two separate bottles together, the finest quality bottles have nearly invisible joints. The glass was then finished with polishing and cutting either in simple panels or elaborate multifaceted designs. Both compartments are usually of the same length, though I have seen a longer side for perfume and a shorter side for salts. During the Victorian era, these bottles were referred to as "union smelling bottles".

Look closer at this bottle, it has a hidden hinged middle compartment complete with a pierced grille for vinaigrette.

Very rarely will you may find a hidden compartment in the middle of the bottles, these are the "opera glasses" type of double ended flacons. This secret hinged compartment could have held a photograph or lock of hair, but if it possesses a grille, it's purpose is for a vinaigrette. 

By the 1850s double ended scent bottles were in general use and quality differed greatly from expensive versions fitted with silver or gold to mass manufactured bottles with simple pewter or brass caps. Their heyday seems to be between 1865 and 1890, though their popularity started to wane around 1875, they continued to be manufactured until the turn of the century.

The majority of bottles were made of clear glass, but deep ruby red, emerald green, and rich cobalt blue can also be found. Harder to find colors are glorious purple, vivid teal, jet black and amber glass. My favorites are the bottles that were made with small inclusions of uranium in the mix, resulting in a vivid apple green (a color called annagrun) and a luminous Vaseline (a shade called annagelb), mainly manufactured by Joseph Riedel of Polaun, first introduced around 1850. 

The rarest of all is opaline glass, made by French glassworks. Some bottles are further accented with enameling on the surface of the glass. A true gem is a bottle with one end one color and the other end a different color, overlay or cased glass examples. Expect to pay a premium for any bottle found in the rare glass colors.

Bottles are generally in a long cylindrical shape, but novelty shapes do exist in rare numbers, some are in the form of cannons, barrels, opera glasses, etc. Sizes for bottles range from 6” long down to a diminutive 1 ¼” long.

Other fine bottles were made of porcelain, and more luxuriously, solid sterling silver or gold. These can be found accented with precious gemstones, guilloche enameling, cloisonné enamel, natural tortoiseshell, pearls, fine filigree or other ornate decoration.

The bottles were topped by either ornate, chased, filigreed, repousse, jeweled, enameled or plain hinged flip top or screw caps made of gilt brass, sterling silver, richly gilded sterling silver, gold or other metal alloys. Some caps have cartouches or blank spaces for monograms. The most expensive bottles have glass or genuine precious stones, coral cabochons, or pearls set into silver or gold mountings.

Sometimes you will find a carrying chain and ring on the caps for suspending on chatelaines or the finger. The bottles either have screw caps at one end for perfumes, with a little cork or glass stopper to keep the contents from spilling. Some of these stoppers are ingeniously built right into the stopper itself, so with a quick snap the bottle is sealed. The smelling salts compartment in cheaper bottles is usually closed by a screw cap with a cork seal or with a well fitting glass stopper and screw or hinged cap. Better quality pieces will have a patent closure for smelling bottles. 

Many bottles were made in England, but some were also made in America and Bohemia. English bottles with sterling silver caps will have hallmarks, so be sure to look around the collars and underneath the caps for any markings. One of England’s finest silversmiths, Sampson Mordan & Co is one of the most sought after makers of these perfume bottles, so look under the cap for his marks. His pieces always garner high prices.

Expensive pieces were often sold in leather cases, lined in satin, sometimes you can find a maker's stamp on the lining.

Condition plays a part in a bottles value. Since glass is a fragile material, nicks and fleabites can be expected. Larger chips or cracks should be reflected in the selling price. Dents in the caps can sometimes be pushed out by a jeweler, or by you. Sometimes the smelling salts end will have a cloudy appearance due to the ammonia that was in the smelling salts, this results in the acids etching away at the inside of the bottle. This can be hard to remove, but I have had some luck with a product called "lime away".  If you find a bottle still possessing smelling salts, you may wish to remove them and wash out the interior to prevent further destruction of the glass. 

Antique Venetian Foiled and Aventurine Glass Scent Bottles

In this guide I will introduce you to the world of Venetian foiled and aventurine glass scent bottles. These spangled works of art were produced in Venice and were mainly manufactured for the tourist market during the mid 19th century.

GH Morison

GH Morison of England, was a wholesale perfumer and manufacturer of perfumed novelties.

Chemist & Druggist, 1908:

"A NOVELTY under the name of "Perfume Plums" is introduced this week. Perfume plums are hermetically sealed bulbs filled with agreeable perfumes, and the different colours and shape suggest the name -- carnation perfume is pink, ess bouquet brown, lilac is purple, Parma violet dark green, wallflower yellow, white rose light green, and so on. They are manufactured under a patent by Mr GH Morison, 34 Guilford Street, London, WC, and retail at 2d each. The perfumes in the bulbs are supplied by Messrs. TF Bristow & Co., Ltd, London." 

Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, 1909:

"GH MORISON & CO., LTD. (PC) Capital 1,000l in 1l shares. Objects: To acquire from GH Morison certain inventions for scent receptacles and his business at Westinghouse Buildings, Norfolk Street, Strand, WC, for perfumes, aromatic essences, liquid disinfectants, etc. The first directors are GH Morison and RJ Koechlin."

Pharmaceutical Journal; 1909:

"Morrison and Co., Limited. Registered on June 26 by Iliffe, Henley, and Sweet, 2, Bedford Row, WC.Capital £1,000, in £1 shares. Objects: To acquire from GH Morison the benefit of certain existing inventions relating to receptacles for scent and other liquids, together with the business carried on by him at Westinghouse Buildings, Norfolk Street, Strand, WC., and to carry on the business of manufacturers of hermetically sealed receptacles for perfumes, aromatic essences, liquid disinfectants, etc. Private company. The first directors (to number not less less than two nor more than seven) are GH Morison, chairman and RJ Koechlin." 

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record - Volume 1, 1910:

"317,819 All goods included in Class 48 GH Morison. FRAGNOLIA & C o Ltd Westinghouse Bldgs, Norfolk St, Strand, London, WC. Manufacturers 2nd November 1909." 

The Pharmaceutical Journal and Pharmacist - Volume 86, 1911:

"BANKRUPTCY INTELLIGENCE: The Affairs of GH Morison and Co., Limited, 5 Torrens Street, EO, manufacturers of Perfume and Toilet Requisites. The creditors and contributors met on April 10 under the compulsory winding-up order made against this company at the Carey Street offices of the Board of Trade. The company was formed in June, 1909, with a capital of £1,000 to acquire the business of manufacturers of perfumes and receptacles for the same belonging to Mr Morison and to carry on a general perfumery business. The business had been carried on for nine months at Betterton Street, Drury Lane. The purchase consideration was £350. The sole capital of the company was derived from the issue of 301 shares for cash, apart from which the company was financed throughout by Mr Koecklin, who held no security and had since assigned the greater part of the debt for the benefit of the creditors. Up to the end of 1909 the company chiefly manufactured receptacles for perfumes, which it purchased from other firms, and upon which a loss was made of £502 to December, 1909. A branch in Paris was partly responsible for that loss. Early in 1910 the company started manufacturing its own perfume, and in the end à laboratory was set up and an analytical chemist appointed for the purpose of producing high class perfumes, face creams, and toilet powders, etc. As the result of the non delivery of a quantity of the necessary goods the sales to January last only amounted to £512 Notwithstanding the slack period the company's establishment was carried on on an expensive scale. A further loss was to January 1 of £2,293. In September, Mr Morison resigned his directorship, his share holding being purchased for face value, viz. £251. In order to find security for the purchase Mr Koecklin assigned the amount due to him by the company of £3,642 to Mr Morison. The accounts filed showed liabilities £5,222 and assets £727. The deficiency to the shareholders is returned. An offer of £240 had been made by tender for the assets, which had been sold by auction for £300, and after payment of expenses the creditors would receive a small dividend, The winding-up was left with the Board of Trade." 

The Law Times Reports of Cases Decided in the House of, 1912:

"March 26 and 27 [1912]. (Before NEVILLE J) Re GH MORISON AND CO LIMITED (a) Company - Preferential payment - Analytical chemist - 'Clerk or servant'  - Companies (Consolidation) Act 1908 (8 Edw. 7 c, 69 8 209) B. was a chemist and in July 1910 was engaged by M. and Co. for nine months at a weekly wage to produce a specified series of formulæ for the manufacture of soaps and perfumes. The contract was to be considered as completed the moment B had produced all the formulæ, and if completed before the end of nine months. B. was still to be paid all his wages for the remainder of the nine months. B. had to attend on only three specified days of each week, but for regular hours. The remainder of the week being at his disposal, and he had in fact another regular engagement with another firm. And there were other special terms in the contract. B.'s wages fell into arrear, and in March 1911, a winding-up order was made against M and Co., and at that date there was due to B. 93l for arrears of wages. B. claimed 50l from the liquidator as a preferential creditor under sect. 209 (1) of the Companies (Consolidation) Act 1908. Held, that under the terms of this contract B. was a clerk or servant within sect. 209 (1) of the Act and was a preferential creditor for 50l.  

ADJOURNED SUMMONS. This was a summons taken out by Edgard Barthelemy Barboni asking that he be paid the sum of 50l. as a preferential creditor under sect. 209 of the Companies (Consolidation) Act 1908, and that the respondent, the official receiver, as liquidator of the above named company is liable to pay the sum in priority to other debts of the company. The company carried on a business of general perfume manufacturers. The applicant, E.B. Barboni, was an analytical chemist and was first employed by the company under an agreement dated March 1910, but that agreement terminated in July 1910. On the 12th July 1910, he was re-engaged by the company on the terms contained in the following letter:

12th July 1910 - Mr. E.B. Barboni, Carshalton, Surrey. Dear Sir, - It gives us great pleasure to inform you that the results of your experiments on our behalf during the past three months have been appreciably received by our shareholders, and we hereby accept your verbal offer of reappointment for a further period of nine months (or thirty nine weeks) to terminate on the 15th April 1911, subject to the following conditions, which we beg you to confirm: (1) You are to give us the benefit of your services for two full days in each week throughout this period, to commence work at 10:30 am and to finish at 6:30 pm, and the time is to be applied to the production of an entire series of those products usually vended by perfumers - a complete list of which is attached hereto. (2) The contract is to be considered as completed the moment you have produced and placed at our disposal formulas for the whole of these products to our entire satisfaction, and suitable for our class of trade, as well as having given as all the necessary practical instructions in the manufacture of the products and use of the formulas. (3) If the contract is completed before the 15th April 1911 we undertake to pay you the full and exact amount which you would have earned had you worked under a weekly wage of 4l. per week until the above specified date (4) If the contract is not completed before the date specified you must undertake to complete it without additional remuneration, in not more than three calendar months after the 15th April 1911. (5) We allow you to use your own discretion as to the order in which the articles specified in the attached list are produced, but we should consider it wisest for you to give your attention, firstly, to those products which give the least trouble to produce and leave the more difficult ones till later. (6) A diary must be kept for the inspection of our shareholders, showing each week the progress which has been made towards the completion of the contract. (7) In the event of our requiring before the completion of this contract any special product - not usually difficult to produce - this special product is to count as though it were on of the things on the attached list, and one of equal difficulty is to be struck off in its place. (8) Your remuneration for this work is to be 4l per week - payable by cheque each Saturday morning, the aggregate sum due thus amounting to 41 (four pounds) per week for thirty nine weeks, 1561 (one hundred and fifty six pounds) in all. (9) We shall expect to have at all times evidence that you shall expect to have at all times evidence that you can complete the contract, and we reserve the right to dispense with your services on one month's notice if it can be clearly shown that your part of the contract cannot be carried out. (10) The formulas supplied to us in carrying out this contract are to remain our exclusive property, and you must agree to keep perfect secrecy respecting them, or regarding any other information which may be of a nature private to our firm. (11) Finally, if the contract be carried out entirely to our satisfaction, we are to have first option of re-engaging you upon similar lines for a further period of one year. We shall be glad of your early acceptance of the above if you agree to same as we are desirous that you should enter upon your duties without further delay. - Yours faithfully, GH MORISON AND CO LIMITED. 

In September it was verbally agreed between one of the directors of the company and the applicant that the latter should attend on three specified days in each week - viz. Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 10:30 in the morning till 6.30 in the evening - and his salary was increased to 61 per week. And it was understood that the company engaged the applicant as their chemist for all purposes which might arise. In the remainder of his time he was at liberty to employ himself as he wished, and he had a regular engagement with another form for half a day per week. His wages from the company fell into arrear, and on the 21st March 1911 a winding-up order was made against the company, and at that date there was due to the applicant the sum of 931. for arrears of wages. On the 15th Jan 1912, he took out this summons as a preferential creditor for 50.

JUDGMENT: Held that he was a clerk or servant within the entitled to 50l. "

 

Nandita by Babani 1925

Nandita by Babani: launched in 1925.

Parfum du Elizabeth II

 On her dressing table, in her bathroom at the Palais de l'Elysee, during her visit to Paris, Queen Elizabeth II of England found this magnificent bottle offered by French perfumers. It contained a jasmine eau de toilette, specially composed for this occasion of particularly selected essences, and absolutely unique, because the formula is jealously guarded by the Perfumery Syndicate, in case the Sovereign wishes to be replenished. The bottle, 40cm high, weighs 10 kilos and was cut from pure crystal. It bears the inscription: "Homage of French Perfumers to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II", and rested in a sumptuous case covered with blue leather, bearing in gold letters the monogram of the Sovereign "EHR". The Eau de Toilette offered to the Queen is thus a quality gift. It will remain the most refined expression of an art in which French perfumers remain masters.

TIME Magazine, 1953:

"And for the visiting Queen's own very private use , there will be a single crystal flagon of perfume concocted with the help of the most sensitive nostrils in France as an " homage from the French Perfumers to Her Majesty Elizabeth II ."