Friday, April 26, 2013

Tiffany by Tiffany & Co c1987

Tiffany by Tiffany and Company was presented in 1987, created by Francois Demachy.





For its 150th anniversary, Tiffany & Company decided to join other famous jewelry brands and produce its own signature fragrance. The store's chairman, William. R."Bill"  Chaney said, "When you think of all you could do to celebrate a 150-year history, it's natural to dedicate a few new products. As we were working on a perfume anyway, it seemed natural to have it correspond to the celebration."

"At first, we resisted creating a fragrance," explained Suzanne McMillan, vice-president of marketing for Tiffany & Co. "But once we decided to go ahead with it, three years of intense research and development went into the product," she said. "The challenge was to create a fragrance consistent with the Tiffany tradition of quality and excellence." However, the fragrance task force was "not so clear on what the smell should be."

"We wanted to introduce a product that would be available for more people than previously could have had Tiffany jewels. This is a jewel for everyone," said Fernanda Gilligan, Tiffany & Co vice president for public relations.

The target customer for Tiffany's fragrance was an upscale woman between the ages of 25 and 55. "There is nothing trendy about Tiffany perfume. It is feminine because it's meant for a classic woman," said Gilligan. "When we looked to create one aura or image to capture the public beyond the Tiffany name, there was no face we could associate with it, no movie star or celebrity," explained Gilligan. As for marketing, the company decided on a theme, "Rhapsody in Blue," for the advertising campaign, referring to both the classic song and the famous Tiffany blue boxes.

According to Gilligan, George Gershwin's "Rhapsody in Blue" seemed to company marketers to represent the "American classic" image with which Tiffany & Co identified with, and which was necessary to consider for both the packaging and the fragrance. "It had to feel rich," said Gilligan.

Rather than use a model like other fragrance brands - the company chose to simply feature the bottle itself, in essence letting the fragrance be the star, while other ads displayed the luxurious bath and body products. The company marketed the fragrance with numerous magazine and newspaper ads, but rejected using television commercials as they felt it would be reaching too mass an audience. Tiffany after all, while wanting to appeal to a wider audience, still wanted to maintain its reputation as an exclusive high end retailer. It did concede in a way, and ran a stint of radio ads before Valentine's Day in 1988, but only on classical music stations.

The scent was the company's first original fragrance and to commemorate the 150th anniversary, it is composed up of 150 floral and fruity ingredients. "We are using a blend of more than 150 natural ingredients including high concentrations of Indian jasmine (the highest grade of jasmine), damascena rose, and fleur d'orange against a background of sandalwood, amber and vanilla," said McMillan.

After nearly two years of painstaking blending, and production in the Chanel Inc. laboratory in Paris, the fragrance was ready to be marketed. 

For the first six months, it was only available for purchase in the Tiffany stores in Boston, New York, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, San Francisco and across the pond in London. It wasn't until spring of 1988 when it moved into a limited number of better department and specialty stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and I. Magnin.  


The Launch:


On Sept. 10, 1987, the fragrance was introduced to 400 socialites and celebrities at a black-tie launch party held at the flagship Tiffany store on Fifth Avenue and 57th Street. Lucky guests nibbled on caviar topped canapes and sipped expensive champagne while perusing the glittering glass display cases. Young salesladies wearing black knit jersey "uniforms" designed by Caroline Simonelli, offered samples of the scent to guests from sterling silver baskets.

Guests were then escorted to the third floor department which holds crystal and china, where they witnessed a brief speech by the store's chairman, William. R. Chaney, and an appearance of model Kim Alexis. The elegant model was wearing a ball gown in the legendary "Tiffany blue" and $1 million worth of diamonds. She made a splash when during a symbolic gesture, lifted the lid of an oversized Tiffany & Company signature blue gift box tied with its trademark large white satin bow, and revealed a huge factice, a replica bottle of the new Tiffany perfume.

After the fragrance reveal, guests enjoyed a George Gershwin concert by famed pianist-singer Michael Feinstein, who tickled the ivories with "Rhapsody in Blue," then partook a sumptuous buffet dinner.  

The fragrance was introduced in Europe at the 150th Anniversary Ball in London on Sept 23, 1987. This charity ball benefitted Action Research for the Crippled Child, with the Duchess of York as guest of honor. 

The Tiffany fragrance was not the first perfume sold at the Tiffany & Company store, but it is their first original perfume to be sold under their signature name. The first Tiffany catalog, printed in 1845, offered thirty floral extracts and handkerchief perfumes made by well known brands such as Guerlain. 
 

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an ambery floral fragrance for women.  

It begins with a fruity top of fresh Italian mandarin, juicy pineapple, bergamot and plum, drizzled with black currant syrup, followed by an exotic floral heart of Indian jasmine, ylang ylang, heady orange blossom, narcotic tuberose, damascena rose, lily of the valley and dewy heliotrope, resting on a sensual, powdery, ambery base with dusty orris, violet leaves, creamy sandalwood and balsamic vanilla.
  • Top notes: orange blossom, ylang ylang, Damascus rose, Indian jasmine,  plum, cassie, pineapple, bergamot, aldehyde, Italian mandarin
  • Middle notes: black currant bud syrup, Egyptian jasmine, Florentine iris, violet leaf, lily of the valley, tuberose, carnation, heliotrope
  • Base notes:  orris, cedar, patchouli, tonka, benzoin, civet, sandalwood, vetiver, amber and vanilla


Bottle:


The Art Deco styled bottle, an elegant crystal rectangle, was created by Pierre Dinand in 1987 and was vaguely reminiscent of the company's Fifth Avenue shop. It combines three product categories for which Tiffany is best known: crystal with gold and silver metallic inlays. The high quality crystal bottle was manufactured by both Saint Gobain Desjonqueres and Pochet et du Courval with plastic components supplied by Augros. 

"We are not only using the finest ingredients in the fragrance," said Miss McMillan, "we are also using prestige packaging. The bottles we are using are a derivative of Tiffany's flagship store on Fifth Avene in New York, clearly an example of the Art Deco period in architecture. We brought in Pierre Dinand from France to design the bottles and packaging. Since France has been the seat of where fragrance has developed for so long, our bottles, packaging, as well as the fragrance are being produced there," said McMillan.

Of course the perfume was presented in the distinctive Tiffany blue gift boxes. The particular shade, an opaline blue not unlike a mix between a robin's egg and turquoise, was chosen by Charles Tiffany in 1837. At that time, it was the most fashionable color in Europe, favored by nobles and aristocrats. Tiffany then combined the color with a straightforward lettering that was typical of America's storefront logos of the period.

One ounce of parfum retailed for $200, while a quarter ounce cost $70. Eau de Parfum was available at $35 per ounce.

The exquisite fragrance won the FiFi award in 1988.



A limited edition bottle was presented in 2001, a crystal bottle topped by a repousse sterling silver stopper, inspired by a design in the Tiffany & Co archives. This limited edition held 1 oz of pure parfum, retailed for $350 and limited to only 1,000 copies.




Ancillary Products:


Tiffany was available in parfum, eau de parfum, eau de toilette, body lotion and body cream.


The Tiffany Spa Collection was released in 1994 as the lightest version of Tiffany. It consisted of Body Mist, Hand Creme, Body Scrub, Soap, Conditioning Shampoo and Body Milk. An invigorating scented candle was also introduced to give your bathroom an ambiance of a spa.




Formulated with yarrow, linden flower, chamomile, sea kelp, cucumber, aloe and witch hazel, to pamper and protect the skin.
  • Tiffany Spa Moisturizing Hand Cream 
  • Tiffany Spa Refreshing Body Mist




Fate of the Fragrance:


Tiffany perfume attracted $2 million in sales for the last three months of 1987.


Hower, as with most fragrances, Tiffany has suffered from reformulation over the years.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: black currant syrup, Italian mandarin
  • Middle notes: violet leaf, lily of the valley, orange blossom, ylang ylang, iris, jasmine, Damascus rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, amber and vanilla

Tiffany for Men was created in 1989 as a companion fragrance.


Flanker Scents:



Tiffany was joined by a flanker scents Sheer Tiffany and Pure Tiffany.

Sheer Tiffany was introduced in 1999 as a fresh marine floral fragrance for women. Created by Jacques Polge. Unfortunately, it was discontinued, date unknown.
  • Top notes: lime, tangerine, clementine and blood orange
  • Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, lily of the valley, water hyacinth, magnolia and peony
  • Base notes: sandalwood, amber, vanilla, musk





Pure Tiffany was created by in 2003 as a light and airy floral fragrance for women. Created by Jacques Polge.
  • Top notes: bergamot
  • Middle notes: magnolia, water lily, Indian tuberose, jasmine and lilac
  • Base notes: sandalwood


In 2017, a new Tiffany fragrance was introduced. Called Tiffany & Co by Tiffany, however, it is not a recreation of the original Tiffany fragrance from 1987. This new example is classified as a floral fragrance for women and was created by perfumer Daniela (Roche) Andrier. 
  • Top notes: Mandarin orange, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes: iris, rose, black currant and peach
  • Base notes: musk and patchouli

This was followed by Tiffany & Co. Intense in 2018. This floral amber fragrance for women was created by Daniela (Roche) Andrier. 
  • Top notes: pink pepper, pear and mandarin leaf
  • Middle notes: iris, jasmine and rose
  • Base notes: musk, benzoin, vanilla, cashmeran, amber and carrot


Tiffany & Co Sheer in 2019. This floral fragrance for women was created by Daniela (Roche) Andrier. 
  • Top notes: mandarin leaf and black currant
  • Middle notes: rose oil and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: musk and iris.


Tiffany & Co White Edition in 2019. This floral fragrance for women was created by Daniela (Roche) Andrier. 
  • Top notes: lemon, bergamot and mandarin orange
  • Middle notes: iris, rose, black currant and peach
  • Base notes: musk and patchouli



Tiffany & Co Wild Iris in 2021. This floral fragrance was created by Daniela (Roche) Andrier. 
  • Top note: green mandarin
  • Middle note: rose
  • Base note: iris


Tiffany & Co Rose Gold in 2021. This fruity floral fragrance for women was created by Jérôme Epinette. 
  • Top note: black currant
  • Middle notes: blue rose and iris
  • Base notes: musk and ambrette seed


Tiffany Rose Gold Intense in 2023.
  • Top notes: fruity notes, pink pepper and citruses
  • Middle notes: Turkish rose oil, orris butter, orange blossom and jasmine sambac
  • Base notes: patchouli, pink sugar, woody notes and marine accord


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