Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Parfums Boue Soeurs

Boué Soeurs, a successful couture house established by two French sisters, Sylvie and Jeanne, in 1899, offered perfumes as part of their exquisite fashion line. Talented and business minded, they opened ateliers in Paris, New York , Palm Beach, San Francisco, London and Bucharest from 1899-1953.



Their breathtaking fashions, characterized by a romantic mixture of dreamy transparent lace, light refracting silver and gold lame, signature tiny ribbonwork rosettes, ethereal passementerie and gathered silk ribbons. All of their fashions were completely handmade and elegant in their undertaking.





Drug Markets - Volume 19, 1926:
"New Incorporations: Parfums Boue, Buffalo, NY, $100,000; J.M. Lupus, A. Muscovici-Rogers, A.A. Arditti." 



The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, 1927:
"New Incorporations: Parfums Boue, Manhattan Borough, New York City, toilet articles, $100,000; J.M. Lupus, A Muscovici-Rogers, A.A. Arditti, (Attorney, S.M. Ostroff, 233 Broadway.)"

BouĂ© Soeurs' first perfume presentation was for their house fragrance Quand les Fleurs Revent (When Flowers Dream) in 1922 and was made at their ancient Chateau de Maison Rouges outside Paris.


The bottles for their perfumes had long necks and the bases were unusual crinoline or pannier shaped, mimicking the Parisian fashions of the day that harked back to the elegant pre-Revolution days of Marie Antoinette. All of the flacons were adorned with paper that simulated lace, in addition to the tiny silk rosettes and pastel ribbons that were found on their clothing.












Arts & Decoration - Volume 19 - Page 43, 1923:
"The charm of Boue Soeurs Creations is now enhanced by the original Boue Soeurs perfume, Quand Les Fleurs Revant. This exotic fragrance, expressive of the originality and taste of Boue Soeurs , has attained the immediate success customary to the creations of this house."



The Pharmaceutical Era - Volume 58 - Page 467, 1924:
"Boue Soeurs showed some attractive gowns as well as perfumes. In between the time she was creating fashions, one of the Boue sisters of Boue Soeurs Inc., took time to make an individual perfume for her own use. All of their exclusive clientele were interested and curious to know how she made it. Mme. Boue for a time offered her own perfume as gifts to their customers. When the demand for the novelty odors became so insistent and her friends insisted on an opportunity to buy them, MMe. Boue was obliged to start manufacture of the perfumes. The business grew so rapidly that a special place was given to the perfumes in the establishment and a factory was purchased and the manufacture launched in a commercial sense. The factory is situated at Pantin, a suburb of Paris. 
The Boue Soeurs leading staple, Quand les Fleurs Revent (when flowers dream) is readily recognized by the rose on the ribbon of the container. Another feature of the house's products is the essence of perfume put up in silver cloth purses that fit into the hand bag and have proved popular with the trade. The boxes holding the various lines are so constructed that they may be opened at the top and sides, permitting full view of the containers from the display cases. 
One of the new features being put out this spring is the "bridal" line, this being packages tied in white ribbons and trimmed with the familiar rose of the Boue Soeurs. The powder is packed in boxes covered with paper that looks like velvet or suede, and is ornamented with the Boue Soeurs trade mark — a ribbon sash and roses."


The Kansas City Star, 1924:
 "From Boue Soeurs, Paris, have come the most exquisite packages of perfumes and face powders Kansas City has yet seen. They arrived yesterday "at the the Sign of the Thistle," 202 W. 47th, Country Club Plaza Shopping Center. Flora Michaelis always manages, somehow, to get these exclusive things for gifts. The perfumes come in six odors, at about $6 a bottle, and in flaconettes in a fascinating little shape, attractively boxes, for $1.50. The odors are Lilas de Minuit, Sylvita, Sylvitte, Sylvie, and Boue Soeurs' new odor, Cantique du Roy. The Lilas de Minuit has a long necked stopper checked in silver and blue and packed in a velvety gold and black striped box. The Sylvita comes in an exquisite apricot and silver box, with a silver and black stopper tied with white satin ribbon and rosebuds. The Cantique du Roy comes in an exotic red and gold striped box, with the stopper checked in gold and black and a tiny medallion of red enamel. The exquisite face powders, in odors and packages to match, are $3 and $4 a box."



 


The Jewelers' Circular - Volume 90, 1925:
"Boué Soeurs Inc. Leo V. Newman, sales manager, will be in charge of the display of Boué Soeurs, Inc., 565 Fifth Ave New York (Parfums de Boué Soeurs, Inc., Paris). It is their first appearance in Chicago and they will occupy room No 826. M. Julio Lupus, treasurer of the company will be here from France during the show and will spend some of his time with Mr. Newman in Chicago. This company has three lines - Cantique du Roy (blended eastern perfume) in perfume toilet water and face powder; Sylvita (blend of 20 different flowers) in same sets and a new odor, the name of which is not yet being revealed but will be given out at the show, which is a combination of orient and floral odors. Vanity products, in the form of silk bags and purses of a large assortment will be shown. These will be equipped variously, but with a lipstick in the tassel, and powder, change purse and mirror, also cigarette compartment and rouge. All these products will appear in novelty bottles and boxes."


The Pharmaceutical Era - Volume 61, 1925:
"PARIS COSTUMER COUPLES PHARMACY AND DRESS MAKING -Denver, Col., Nov 25, P.J. Diffley, general manager of Boue Soeurs, Paris designers and importers of women's apparel, has just been here, coming right from France to the Mile high city. He said, "Most of our gowns are by Countess Sylvia Montaguet and Baroness Jeanne d'Etrellis, and you will find the flower design in most of them - the flower motif. You will have the perfume for each gown new odors harmonizing with each creation." Mons. Diffley brought with him the perfumery, too, but it is up to the costumer to tell the wearers of his creations the perfumery that goes with the wonderful gowns - whether it is rose or carnation - that will make the flower design stand out as a living bloom wafting its fragrance on the air. Then enters the pharmacist." 


 



National Drug Clerk, 1927:
"The Syndicate Des Parfums Francais, Inc. This concern is a sales organization to represent in this country, various lines of perfumes and other toilet articles. They have already secured selling rights in this country for such firms as Boue, Valencia, Bernard Je Roger, Marques de Elorza..."










The perfumes of Boue Soeurs:

  • 1920 Origamine 
  • 1922 Quand les Fleurs Revent
  • 1923 Pour L’Amour
  • 1924 Lilas de Minuit
  • 1924 Sylvie
  • 1924 Slyvita
  • 1924 Sylviette
  • 1924 Cantique du Roy
  • 1925 Cytherea
  • 1925 Bacchanale
  • 1925 La Rose Sylvie
  • 1925 Parfums Boue
  • 1926 Jasmin
  • 1926 Florale
  • 1926 Hyacinth


The powder was housed in a black and gold box , decorated with a blue silk ribbon, and a tiny bouquet of silk flowers as shown in the advertisement below.








Marques de Elorza

It is interesting to note that in 1925, the perfume house of Marques de Elorza launched a perfume of Quand les Fleurs Revent, the same name as Boue Soeurs first fragrance, this is because the two houses were associated. In addition to this perfume, Marques de Elorza also launched perfumes such as Sylvie after Sylvie Boue.

The house of Marques de Elorza was established by Marques Julio Lupus de Elorza at 73 avenue Champs-Elysees, Paris in 1926, Christie Mayer Lefkowith mentions that the company was established by Avran Moscovici. Their company as also affiliated to Chenier, Parfumerie Brecher, and Parfums de Paul and associated with Boue SƓurs. You will see the same perfume names used by Boue Soeurs and Marques de Elorza. The company produced interesting and luxurious perfume presentations, but as the 1930s started, their presentations were of lesser quality.








The bottle for Cantique des Cantiques (Song of Songs) was designed by Julien Viard and made by Verreries Leune. The bottles for both Valencia and Argentina were also designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by Depinoix. Argentina, a heavy, oriental style perfume, was not named for the country but rather for a popular opera singer at the time, the perfume was the re-branded fragrance 'Soir de Lune' by Parfumerie Brecher.





The perfume bottle for Marche Nuptiale (Wedding March) a heavy, oriental style perfume, was the re-branded fragrance ‘MarchĂ© Nuptiale’ by AndrĂ© Chenier. Presented in a bottle designed by Julien Viard, and manufactured by Depinoix, which featured a bride holding hands with Cupid. The name was taken from a then popular Parisian play.


The perfumes of Marques de Elorza:

  • 1925 Bacchanale
  • 1925 Bleu-Blanc
  • 1925 Blue Ribbon
  • 1925 Cantique du Roy
  • 1925 Lilac de Minuit
  • 1925 Parfums Boue
  • 1925 Quand les Fleurs RĂȘvent
  • 1925 Sylvie
  • 1925 Sylviette
  • 1925 Sylvita
  • 1928 Cantique des Cantiques
  • 1928 Lyrysis
  • 1928 Radior
  • 1928 Solarine
  • 1928 Sybyl
  • 1929 Legion d'Honneur
  • 1929 Maitresse
  • 1929 MarchĂ© Nuptiale
  • 1929 Sweet Peas de Printemps
  • 1929 Valencia
  • 1929 Argentina
  • 1950 Ming Jade
  • 1951 Aperitiff
  • 1951 La Fleur Merveilleuse
  • 1951 Spring Madness
  • 1951 Taj Mahal
  • 1951 White Enchantment
  • 1951 Do-Re-Me
  • Geicha (1920s)

National Drug Clerk, 1927:
"The Syndicate Des Parfums Francais, Inc. This concern is a sales organization to represent in this country, various lines of perfumes and other toilet articles. They have already secured selling rights in this country for such firms as Boue, Valencia, Bernard Je Roger, Marques de Elorza..."


Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office, 1957:
"Old Empire Manufacturing Chemists, Inc., doing business as Marques de Elorza, Newark, N. J. Perfumes, toilet water, eau de cologne, etc. 586,531, Mar. 9 ; Serial No. 631,759, published Nov. 3, 1953. "


Parfumerie Brecher 

Parfumerie Brecher was established by Paul Brecher in Pontoise at Paris around 1910. Jacques Ernest Mazurier became owner after 1918 moved company to 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris; affiliated with Benoit and Marquis de Elorza. Perfumes labeled ‘Aux Perfumeries Reunites’.






The bottle for Soir de Noel, is made up of black glass, decorated with abstract motifs of thick enamel in aqua, white and gold. The stopper has the same enamelling. The back side of the flacon is undecorated and features a paper label. The box shape is reminiscent of a Japanese inro case and is fitted with a silk tassel. The design is nearly identical to a bottle used for Shari by Langlois.



Brecher’s perfume Soir de Lune was presented in a cobalt blue glass flacon designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by Depinoix.



The perfume Sous de Charmille (Under the Bower) was also created by Julien Viard and made by Depinoix.  a J. Viard bottle made by Depinoix, squatty bulbous clear glass tapering to a small neck & flattened blossom-form stopper, the sides enameled in shades of green & brown w/leaves.  



Parfumerie Brecher also had a line of solid perfumes made up of Bakelite starting in 1929, Amour de Folie, Jasmin, Narcisse, Chypre, Lilas, Rose, Violette and possibly others.


The perfumes of Brecher:
  • 1911 Mon Bouquet
  • 1911 Royal Delices
  • 1911 Le Trefle Russe
  • 1911 Muguet
  • 1911 Violette
  • 1924 Sous de Charmille
  • 1925 ƒillet
  • 1925 Chypre
  • 1925 Doux RĂ©ve
  • 1925 Le Temp des Fleurs
  • 1925 Le Vrai Narcisse
  • 1925 Les Fleurettes/Mes Fleurettes
  • 1925 Tabac Jaune
  • 1927 Bonjour Paris
  • 1927 Fumee Bleue
  • 1927 Soir de Lune
  • 1929 Amour de Folie
  • 1929 Lolita
  • 1929 Soir de Noel
  • 1930 En Promenade
  • 1930 L'An

Parfums de Paul

Parfums de Paul was established by D.P. Paul in 366 Fifth Avenue New York and Paris and active between the two World Wars producing novelties and luxury presentations; they were affiliated to Marques de Elorza. 

The bottle for Nuit de Mariage by Parfums de Paul was presented in a bottle, box and label by B.T.C.I.C.. Also in a bottle made by VerriĂšres Viard.


The perfumes of Parfums de Paul:
  • 1926 Nuit de Mariage


Benoit Perfumes

Benoit, established in 1926 by Marco Barouh, of Barouh & Hermanos located at 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris in 1926; in association with Garcia Anastasios Somoza established at 77 A Prado St Havana, Cuba; launched a range of fragrances between 1926 and 1942. Affiliated with Brecher.

The perfumes of Benoit:
  • 1925 Merry Christmas
  • 1926 Orage d'Amour
  • 1926 Lune de Miel
  • 1928 Nuit de Paques (Easter Evening)
  • 1929 Jardin du Mystere
  • 1930 Une Corbeille de Fleurs
  • 1935 Ange de Jericho
  • 1935 Ange de Glorie
  • 1940 My Kiss
  • 1942 Clair de Lune
  • 1942 Maderas de Tropico
  • 1942 Muguet de Mai
  • 1942 Aromas de Oriente
  • 1942 Clavel Rojo
  • 1942 Nuit de Paris
  • 1942 Aromas de Oriente
  • Un Soir de Folie (unknown launch date)
  • Chamelle (unknown launch date)



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