Saturday, January 4, 2014

Hattie Carnegie Perfumes

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes produced by Hattie Carnegie of New York City.





Established by Henrietta Kanengeiser (born in Austria 1889, died in New York in 1956) in East 49th Street, New York in 1909; a fashion and jewelry house. Launched her first signature fragrance in 1925.


The perfumes of Hattie Carnegie :

  • 1928 Hattie Carnegie
  • 1939 Hypnotic (a sharp, tangy, aldehydic floral perfume, lily dominant, for evening)
  • 1939 No. 7 (a sweet jasmine floral chypre spicy amber perfume)
  • 1941 No. 49 (pungent floral)
  • 1944 No. 11 (a light floral chypre perfume, for outdoors)
  • 1944 Carnegie Blue (a crisp, sharp, spicy, aldehydic floral jasmine perfume)
  • 1944 Carnegie Pink (a dry aldehydic floral chypre perfume)
  • 1944 Carnegie White
  • 1944 Carnegie Beige
  • 1944 Whirlpool
  • 1944 Jeune Fille
  • 1945 Four Winds (a fresh, light, vibrant, sporty, earthy, forest-like outdoor cologne)
  • 1946 Anytime
  • 1946 Anywhere
  • 1946 Anyplace
  • 1949 Golden Lotus
  • 1949 Golden Lily
  • 1949 Golden Lilac
  • 1949 50
  • 1949 Carte Bleu
  • 1949 Carte Blanche (a spicy perfume)
  • 1949 Carte Verte
  • 1958 Miss Hattie
  • 1964 Mr. Carnegie (sandalwood, men's aftershave lotion)
  • 1964 AGogo (jasmine, rose, and woods perfume, took 12 years to complete)
 


Bottles:



Bust Flacons:


Her most famous design is the Art Deco woman's bust, sometimes you can find the bottle entirely gilded with 22kt gold enamel. This glass bottle was designed by Tommi Parzinger and was made at the TC Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, NJ (close to where I live). Wheaton was founded in 1888 and produced bottles for pharmaceutical use, but also for perfumers. By the 1930s, Wheaton was manufacturing bottles for quality perfume brands, both American and European such as Galanos, Adrian, Prince Matchabelli, Liz Claiborne, Anne Klein, Corday, Nettie Rosenstein and Shulton.

The bust bottles generally held parfum, but larger bottles were made to hold the Cologne Concentrate.

These bottles came in various sizes:
  • 3/16 oz bottle stands almost 2" tall.
  • 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.5" tall.
  • 1 oz bottle stands 3.75" tall.
  • 1.5 oz bottle stands 4.25" tall.
  • 3 oz bottle stands 3 3/8" tall x 4" wide.





Harper's Bazaar, 1946:
"Five original fragrances captured and sealed in the famous — and lovely — Hattie Carnegie head bottle. "Carnegie Blue," "Hypnotic," "7," "11," "49." Five to thirty-five dollars in representative stores throughout the country."

Home Journal, 1947:
"Hypnotic, in the golden head, is sophistication from Hattie Carnegie."


Mademoiselle, 1968:
"What's needed is a good spirit-reviver, and we propose Hattie Carnegie's Special Edition Perfumes. Four scents: Carnegie Pink (mellow-dreamy), Carnegie Blue (crisp), Four Winds (inscrutable), a GOGO (ye-ye). When you're at your lowest, Hypnotic."



Other Bottles:


The Hattie Carnegie colognes were in simple clear glass bottles in a tall, rectangular shape with black plastic screw caps. These came in three sizes:
  • 2 oz (introduced in 1953)
  • 4 oz
  • 6 oz

Hattie Carnegie Parfums and Cologne Concentrates were also housed in square, clear glass bottles with ball shaped glass stoppers.
  • 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.


Other items are spray flacons.


Cue, 1948:
"Hattie Carnegie's answer to the how- to-keep-cool question is Four Winds Body Mint Julep which you can simply pat on where it will do the most good, spray all over you or use to perfume your bath. It's $2 for 6 oz." 
Vogue, 1969:
"Hattie Carnegie's Agogo comes in a sleek little stash-size spray cylinder all gilty-bright as the perfume inside."

 


Harper's Bazaar, 1949:
"HATTIE CARNEGIE'S PERFUME BURNER, ESPECIALLY PLEASANT WITH HER "GOLDEN LOTUS" PERFUME."

 


"Scentwrite" Perfume Pencil:


The New Yorker, 1949:
"Scentwrite — 24k gold plated perfume pencil with Golden Lotus Carnegie perfume."


 Harper's Bazaar, 1950:

"A pretty new way to carry perfume in your handbag, this gold-plated and gem- studded pencil with a cache concealed in the top. By Hattie Carnegie, and the cost includes half a dram of her "Golden Lotus," as well as a crystal funnel for filling."


The Hattie Carnegie Fragrances:


The notes listed below are mostly what I detected when I sampled the perfumes myself.


Hattie Carnegie No. 7 is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot and neroli
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, lilac and lily
  • Base notes: labdanum, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood, and musk


Hattie Carnegie Blue is classified as an aldehydic light floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth, aldehydes and neroli
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, spices
  • Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, labdanum, oakmoss, sandalwood, and musk


Carnegie Pink is classified as a dry aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. The notes given below are what I smelled when I just tested my own bottle of the perfume.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, citrus
  • Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, violet, orris
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, amber, patchouli, labdanum


Four Winds: is classified as a light floral woody fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: hyacinth
  • Middle notes: rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood


AGogo:
  • Top notes: aldehydes
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose
  • Base notes: woods

Vogue, 1966:
"a Gogo by Hattie Carnegie means galore. What a Gogo is galore with: jasmine, rose, dusty overtones, new aromatic techniques twelve years in the blending."

Vogue, 1970:
"Join the New Movement. The action starts with Parfum AGogo by Hattie Carnegie, French perfume $25.00 the oz. In other fragrant forms, from $4.00. At today-type stores."



2 comments:

  1. I was given a gift of Hattie Carnegie around 1964....I believe it was wrapped in a light green color....it was delightful....soft. floral...lasting...a bit of baby powder came through....was able to buy for several years after but then no longer available......I wish I knew what the fragrance "notes" were in Hattie's.

    ReplyDelete
  2. I snagged a sealed box of Four Winds Cologne Concentre on EBay for $10! After some time, I opened it. What a lovely scent! I have no clue how old it is, or how it was kept, but my bottle seems well-preserved (round clear glass with a black top, splash, not spray) It is a crisp floral, strong and lasting for a cologne. It reminds me of Patou's Un Amour, but crisper, although it is not overly citrusy, nor is it overly powdery or soapy. It is spring in a bottle.

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