Black Satin by Angelique c1946

Black Satin by Angelique, launched in 1946, evokes the luxurious and mysterious allure of the post-war period. The name "Black Satin" conjures images of rich, smooth, and velvety textures—black, the color of sophistication and elegance, paired with satin, a fabric that has long been associated with sensuality and opulence. Satin, known for its soft, lustrous sheen, suggests a sense of refinement and indulgence. The word "Black Satin" itself is imbued with a duality: dark and alluring yet smooth and inviting, much like the fragrance it represents. It speaks to an elegance that is at once bold and intimate, a perfect fit for the desires of women seeking both refinement and mystery after the austerity of the war years.

Launched in the aftermath of World War II, Black Satin arrived at a time when society was transitioning from the wartime hardships into a period of recovery and reinvention. The late 1940s were marked by a return to glamour, with women embracing fashion that reflected both femininity and empowerment. The fashion world, led by couturiers like Christian Dior with his “New Look,” celebrated voluminous skirts, nipped-in waists, and luxurious fabrics—trends that mirrored the opulence of Black Satin. Women of the time would have related to the perfume as an expression of this new, more extravagant world, one that sought to recapture the freedom and decadence of the pre-war era.

In terms of scent, Black Satin would have been interpreted as a complex, layered fragrance, with its aldehydic and oriental notes embodying the essence of sophistication and seduction. It was rich and full-bodied, with a blend of 33 ingredients, including florals and spices, that enveloped the wearer like a luxurious fabric. The aldehydes, which were a hallmark of many perfumes of the era, would have given it a bright, almost sparkling opening, followed by a warm, spicy heart, and a deep, opulent base. The perfume's composition likely conveyed both a sense of intrigue and sensuality, with a comforting yet provocative warmth.

Black Satin was part of a larger series of fragrances by Angelique, including Gold Satin, White Satin, Red Satin, and Pink Satin. These perfumes were an exploration of different facets of femininity, each one embodying a distinct mood or persona, much like the varied textures of satin fabric. While each fragrance in the series would have been unique in its own right, Black Satin stood out as the most mysterious and enigmatic, its deep, sultry character appealing to women who sought to express their inner complexity. In the context of the broader fragrance market at the time, Black Satin was distinctive but also in line with the growing trend for complex, rich, and opulent perfumes that emerged in the post-war era. The emphasis on luxurious, layered ingredients and the celebration of sensuality made it a perfect match for the tastes of women in the mid-20th century.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an opulent aldehydic oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: African basil, aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, citronella, Sicilian lemon, Spanish geranium, Persian galbanum, Italian neroli, cypress, Paraguayan petitgrain
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, cardamom, Russian coriander, Alpine lily of the valley, Provencal lavender, Grasse jasmine, Florentine iris, Manila ylang ylang, Grasse tuberose, Dutch honeysuckle, freesia, Zanzibar clove
• Base notes: Tonkin musk, Arabian myrrh, Tyrolean oakmoss, Indian sandalwood, Italian orris, ambergris, Seychelles patchouli, Siamese benzoin, styrax, Venezuelan tonka bean, Maltese labdanum, Madagascar vanilla, Ethiopian civet, Omani frankincense, Virginian cedarwood, guaiac, Haitian vetiver, agarwood

Scent Profile:

As you apply Black Satin to your wrist, the first impression is a delicate, almost powdery haze—its opening a sharp yet smooth burst of aldehydes. The aldehydes, effervescent and slightly soapy, immediately create a clean, almost clinical sensation, reminiscent of fresh linens or polished surfaces. There's an unmistakable sense of airiness, like the sparkling air after a thunderstorm, mingling with the citrus zest of Sicilian lemon and Calabrian bergamot, both bright, crisp, and zesty, slicing through the initial powder with a sense of sharp, cool clarity. 

Citronella adds a hint of herbal bitterness, lending a slight, invigorating green edge to the citrus. Persian galbanum contributes an earthy, green note that’s both slightly resinous and spicy, adding depth and complexity to the fragrance’s opening, alongside the herbal undertones of African basil and the bright, woody freshness of Paraguayan petitgrain.

The heart of the fragrance unfurls with soft, muted florals, their sweetness restrained by the fragrance’s earthy base. Bulgarian rose provides a soft, almost dewy floral sweetness that’s not overbearing, floating lightly above the sharper green notes. Grasse jasmine enters with a faintly indolic sweetness—an understated, almost velvet-like richness—while the Manila ylang ylang adds its signature tropical sweetness, but in a more restrained, creamy form, smoothing the heart into something subtly sensual. 

The fresh, almost ethereal quality of Alpine lily of the valley and Dutch honeysuckle blends with a whisper of Provencal lavender, calming the intense herbal opening with its calming floral notes. The Florentine iris, powdery and dry, adds a delicate, almost chalky texture that anchors the perfume’s heart, blending seamlessly with the rich, creamy essence of Grasse tuberose, its heady florals bringing a sense of opulence that contrasts with the earlier green notes.

As Black Satin settles into its base, the fragrance shifts into a more substantial, woody, and resinous character. Indian sandalwood, rich and creamy, mingles with the earthy, slightly smoky depth of Virginian cedarwood, adding a grounding warmth to the perfume. Seychelles patchouli brings a soft, woody earthiness that layers beautifully with the bittersweet, balsamic edge of Siamese benzoin and the slightly medicinal, resinous warmth of Omani frankincense. 

There’s a subtle sweetness, like honeyed warmth, coming from the Madagascar vanilla and Venezuelan tonka bean, their rich, smooth sweetness softening the rougher edges of the fragrance. The ambergris brings a soft, animalic note—a touch of saltiness and musk that deepens the fragrance, while styrax and agarwood add an almost leathery, smoky depth that remains cool and dry, lending a sense of the ancient and timeless to the perfume.

As Black Satin reaches its final stages, a complex, musty undertone emerges. The scent recalls antique wood, warm and woody, but also a bit damp and worn, like an old carved sandalwood fan tucked away in a cedar chest. The fragrance takes on a slightly medicinal, "band-aid" effect—a characteristic often associated with oud or the rich, dark warmth of styrax and myrrh, which is complemented by the slightly animalic, dirty warmth of Ethiopian civet. 

This musty, almost smoky undertone is not unpleasant; in fact, it deepens the fragrance, adding a unique complexity that feels comforting, like an old, well-loved object with a rich history. The Haitian vetiver provides an earthy, slightly smoky finish that lingers long after the perfume has settled, while the subtle presence of guaiac adds a faint, woody, almost leathery undertone to the final drydown.

Black Satin is, in essence, a journey from crisp citrus and green herbs to soft, muted florals, into a warm, woody, and resinous embrace. It is a complex and multifaceted fragrance, offering a fine balance of freshness, warmth, and depth. It lingers on the skin in a powdery, musky haze, with each note evolving into a rich, tactile experience, bringing to mind the feeling of a timeworn object, the elegance of a bygone era.

 

Bottles:

Angelique's perfumes were elegantly presented in bespoke bottles crafted by Swindell Bros., known for their meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship. These glass flacons, with their sophisticated lines, were designed to reflect the opulence of the fragrance within. The perfume labels were a work of art in themselves, produced by the renowned Richard M. Krause, whose foil labels added a touch of luxury and refinement to the bottles. Each label featured intricate detailing, elevating the perfume's prestige. 

The packaging was equally impressive, with the boxes being handmade by The Perfumers and Jewelers Box Company. These boxes were carefully crafted to provide a fitting, lavish home for the perfume bottles, ensuring that the entire presentation was as luxurious and enduring as the fragrance itself. The combination of high-quality materials and artistry in the design of both the bottles and the packaging ensured that Angelique's perfumes were not only a sensory experience but a visual and tactile one as well, embodying the elegance and sophistication of the mid-20th century perfume market.

c1963 ad showing Angelique's perfumes and colognes.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1946, Black Satin by Angelique was an opulent fragrance that encapsulated the allure and sophistication of post-war luxury. Its rich, aldehydic oriental composition reflected the era’s appetite for exotic, sensual perfumes, with its blend of lush florals and warm, resinous base notes. Aimed at women who sought elegance and refinement, Black Satin became a symbol of glamour in the years that followed its introduction. The perfume’s captivating scent profile was perfectly aligned with the growing demand for perfumes that evoked opulence and mystery.

Though Black Satin was discontinued at an unknown date, it managed to hold on to its place in the market for over two decades, with its presence still notable as late as 1969. This longevity suggests that the fragrance had a lasting appeal, perhaps due to its ability to resonate with the tastes of multiple generations. By the late 1960s, the perfume market was beginning to shift toward lighter, more modern scents, but Black Satin remained a beloved classic, cherished by those who appreciated its deep, complex composition. Its eventual discontinuation marked the end of an era, but Black Satin continues to hold a place in the history of mid-century fragrances, remembered for its luxurious, multifaceted character and the distinctive elegance it offered to those who wore it.