Etourdissant by Jean Desprez c1939

In 1939, the year Etourdissant by Jean Desprez was launched, the world was on the brink of profound change. Europe was descending into the chaos of World War II, marking a tumultuous period of uncertainty and shifting societal norms. Despite the looming conflict, the world of fashion and fragrance continued to thrive as an escape and expression of luxury and elegance.

Jean Desprez's choice of the name "Etourdissant" for his perfume carries significant meaning. "Etourdissant" is a French word that translates to "dazzling" or "bewildering" in English. It derives from the verb "étourdir," which means "to dazzle" or "to stun." This choice of name reflects a desire to capture attention and evoke a sense of awe and wonder, qualities highly sought after in a perfume during this glamorous era.

In the context of 1939, "Etourdissant" would have been a bold and evocative name for a perfume. It speaks directly to the desire for opulence and allure amidst the uncertainty of the times. Those who related to a perfume called "Etourdissant" would likely be individuals seeking escape from the harsh realities of war, drawn to the promise of luxury and the transformative power of fragrance.

What are Chypre Fragrances?

Chypre (pronounced "shee-pra" or alternatively, "sheep") fragrances take their name from the French term for Cyprus, the legendary birthplace of Venus, the goddess of love. The term “Chypre” was originally coined in the early 19th century to describe perfumes that shared a distinctive olfactive accord—a harmonious blend of certain key ingredients that form a single, recognizable scent profile. This accord is warm, soft, and sweet, with elements that create an earthy, mossy, and slightly woody base. The Chypre fragrance family is centered around a delicate balance of natural and synthetic elements, often conjuring a sense of the Mediterranean landscape, where the richness of the earth meets the fresh, salt-kissed air of the sea.

Historically, Chypre perfumes are said to have originated in Cyprus, owing to the island's rich diversity of botanicals and its association with ancient culture. Cyprus was known for its wealth of flora, particularly in the coastal and mountainous regions. Patchouli and oakmoss are two of the foundational ingredients in any Chypre accord. Patchouli, with its earthy, sweet, and slightly spicy aroma, creates a grounding effect, while oakmoss, known for its damp, woody, and green notes, lends a sense of depth and complexity to the fragrance. These two ingredients are often joined by gum labdanum, which offers a honeyed, balsamic sweetness, contributing to the overall warmth of the perfume. Labdanum's rich resinous quality is crucial to the Chypre signature, imparting a sensual and almost animalistic undertone.

Gold Satin by Angelique c1950

Launched in 1950, Gold Satin by Angelique was a tribute to the richness and allure of feminine glamour. The name "Gold Satin" immediately evokes imagery of luxury and refinement—a shimmering, luminous fabric that captures the light in soft, fluid ripples. It suggests warmth, opulence, and sophistication, conjuring visions of gilded evening gowns, golden sunsets, and the radiant glow of confidence. Angelique's choice of this evocative name reflected not only the richness of the fragrance but also its intended embodiment of a bold, sensuous woman unafraid to shine.

The year 1950 marked the beginning of a new decade, a time often referred to as the Golden Age of Glamour. The post-war optimism of the late 1940s had given rise to an era of indulgence and style, epitomized by the rise of haute couture and Hollywood's influence on beauty and fashion. Women sought to reclaim their femininity and elegance, embracing structured silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and perfectly coiffed hairstyles. Evening gowns made of satin, silk, and velvet became symbols of sophistication, and the allure of gold as a color and concept resonated deeply during this time.

Gold Satin, a spicy floral chypre fragrance, captured the essence of this glamorous period. Described as heady and sensuous, it was a bold and confident scent, suggested particularly for redheads—a demographic often celebrated for their fiery, striking beauty. This specific marketing touch hinted at the individuality and vivaciousness the perfume sought to embody. For women of the time, Gold Satin would have been a fragrance to wear when making a statement, whether at a formal gala or an intimate evening gathering.

Black Satin by Angelique c1946

Black Satin by Angelique, launched in 1946, evokes the luxurious and mysterious allure of the post-war period. The name "Black Satin" conjures images of rich, smooth, and velvety textures—black, the color of sophistication and elegance, paired with satin, a fabric that has long been associated with sensuality and opulence. Satin, known for its soft, lustrous sheen, suggests a sense of refinement and indulgence. The word "Black Satin" itself is imbued with a duality: dark and alluring yet smooth and inviting, much like the fragrance it represents. It speaks to an elegance that is at once bold and intimate, a perfect fit for the desires of women seeking both refinement and mystery after the austerity of the war years.

Launched in the aftermath of World War II, Black Satin arrived at a time when society was transitioning from the wartime hardships into a period of recovery and reinvention. The late 1940s were marked by a return to glamour, with women embracing fashion that reflected both femininity and empowerment. The fashion world, led by couturiers like Christian Dior with his “New Look,” celebrated voluminous skirts, nipped-in waists, and luxurious fabrics—trends that mirrored the opulence of Black Satin. Women of the time would have related to the perfume as an expression of this new, more extravagant world, one that sought to recapture the freedom and decadence of the pre-war era.

In terms of scent, Black Satin would have been interpreted as a complex, layered fragrance, with its aldehydic and oriental notes embodying the essence of sophistication and seduction. It was rich and full-bodied, with a blend of 33 ingredients, including florals and spices, that enveloped the wearer like a luxurious fabric. The aldehydes, which were a hallmark of many perfumes of the era, would have given it a bright, almost sparkling opening, followed by a warm, spicy heart, and a deep, opulent base. The perfume's composition likely conveyed both a sense of intrigue and sensuality, with a comforting yet provocative warmth.

Cassandra by Weil c1935

 The Cassandra perfume first came out in 1935 in France,  and it was introduced into the USA in 1936. The perfume was created by Jacqueline Fraysse and took two years to perfect. It was available as parfum, cologne and toilet water.

Parfums Raphael

Parfums Raphael was founded in 1930 by Raphaël Lopez at 3 Avenue George V in Paris, a location synonymous with luxury and elegance. From the outset, the brand was committed to quality, ensuring that all products were meticulously bottled, packaged, and sealed at their factory in Colombes, France. This dedication to craftsmanship allowed Parfums Raphael to establish itself as a notable player in the competitive world of perfumery.

By 1960, the factory had begun to expand significantly, adding a new wing to accommodate the growing demand for their fragrances. This expansion reflected the increasing popularity of Parfums Raphael, as their perfumes began to gain recognition on an international scale. The new wing symbolized not only the success of the brand but also the promise of further innovation and creativity in fragrance development.

Mousseline by Marcel Rochas c1946

Mousseline, launched in 1946 by Marcel Rochas and created by the esteemed perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, arrived at a significant historical juncture. The mid-1940s were a time of recovery and transformation in the aftermath of World War II. Society was yearning for renewal and a return to elegance and sophistication. Fashion and fragrance were pivotal in this cultural renaissance, offering a sense of hope and a connection to beauty. Marcel Rochas, a visionary in the fashion world, understood the importance of capturing this sentiment in his creations. His decision to launch Mousseline during this period reflects a desire to encapsulate the essence of refinement and femininity that people were eager to embrace once more.

Marcel Rochas's choice of the name "Mousseline" for his perfume is a nod to both historical and artistic influences. The term "mousseline" refers to a delicate, lightweight fabric often used in fine garments, particularly during the Victorian era. This fabric is known for its sheer quality and gentle, flowing drape, evoking images of ethereal elegance and romanticism. By naming the perfume Mousseline, Rochas cleverly bridged the worlds of fashion and fragrance, reinforcing his status as a master of style and innovation. The name conjures an image of soft, luxurious fabric, hinting at the light, airy nature of the scent itself.

"Mousseline" is a French term for a type of muslin fabric, characterized by its fine, lightweight texture. The word itself derives from "Mosul," a city in present-day Iraq, where the fabric was originally traded. In the context of a perfume, "Mousseline" implies a fragrance that is delicate, transparent, and sophisticated, much like the fabric it is named after. The choice of this name suggests a scent that is subtle yet captivating, appealing to those who appreciate understated elegance and timeless beauty. It evokes a sense of grace and refinement, perfectly aligning with the post-war desire for a return to classicism and subtle luxury.