Etourdissant by Jean Desprez c1939

In 1939, the year Etourdissant by Jean Desprez was launched, the world was on the brink of profound change. Europe was descending into the chaos of World War II, marking a tumultuous period of uncertainty and shifting societal norms. Despite the looming conflict, the world of fashion and fragrance continued to thrive as an escape and expression of luxury and elegance.

Jean Desprez's choice of the name "Etourdissant" for his perfume carries significant meaning. "Etourdissant" is a French word that translates to "dazzling" or "bewildering" in English. It derives from the verb "étourdir," which means "to dazzle" or "to stun." This choice of name reflects a desire to capture attention and evoke a sense of awe and wonder, qualities highly sought after in a perfume during this glamorous era.

In the context of 1939, "Etourdissant" would have been a bold and evocative name for a perfume. It speaks directly to the desire for opulence and allure amidst the uncertainty of the times. Those who related to a perfume called "Etourdissant" would likely be individuals seeking escape from the harsh realities of war, drawn to the promise of luxury and the transformative power of fragrance.

What are Chypre Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.


Chypre: (pronounced shee-pra)


Takes its name from the French name for Cyprus, is the legendary birthplace of Venus, the goddess of love.

Chypre perfumes are based on an accord, or several scents that blend together to create a single soft, warm, and sweet scent. There are two scents that are included in all accords, these would be patchouli and oak moss. Most have gum labdanum which has a sweet honey like note.

Although Chypre perfumes certainly existed during the 19th century, many perfume genealogies forget this and simply say that these perfumes take their name from Coty’s Chypre which debuted in 1917. In my research I have found that numerous chypre fragrances were popular from about 1860-1915. Companies such as Ed Pinaud released one in 1856,  Lubin in 1857, Bourjois in 1890, Roger et Gallet in 1893, Richard Hudnut in 1895, Lentheric in 1897, LT Piver in 1904, D'Orsay introduced theirs in 1912,

Guerlain had several in their vast catalogue of scents. One such was Chypre de Paris. Chypre de Paris was created by Jacques Guerlain in 1909. It was reportedly not like the chypres we are used to but has many of the same ingredients, and is classified as an aromatic spicy leather fragrance.

• Top notes: leather, spicy notes, lavender, bergamot, lemon
• Middle notes: jasmine, orange blossom, rose, ylang ylang, orris, calamus, opoponax, patchouli, Peru balsam, nutmeg
• Base notes: oakmoss, vanilla, musk and civet

Gold Satin by Angelique c1950

Gold Satin by Angelique: launched in 1950.

Black Satin by Angelique c1946

Black Satin by Angelique: launched in 1946.

Cassandra by Weil c1935

 The Cassandra perfume first came out in 1935 in France,  and it was introduced into the USA in 1936. The perfume was created by Jacqueline Fraysse and took two years to perfect. It was available as parfum, cologne and toilet water.

Parfums Raphael

Parfums Raphael was founded in 1930 by Raphaël Lopez at 3 Avenue George V in Paris, a location synonymous with luxury and elegance. From the outset, the brand was committed to quality, ensuring that all products were meticulously bottled, packaged, and sealed at their factory in Colombes, France. This dedication to craftsmanship allowed Parfums Raphael to establish itself as a notable player in the competitive world of perfumery.

By 1960, the factory had begun to expand significantly, adding a new wing to accommodate the growing demand for their fragrances. This expansion reflected the increasing popularity of Parfums Raphael, as their perfumes began to gain recognition on an international scale. The new wing symbolized not only the success of the brand but also the promise of further innovation and creativity in fragrance development.

Mousseline by Marcel Rochas c1946

Mousseline, launched in 1946 by Marcel Rochas and created by the esteemed perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, arrived at a significant historical juncture. The mid-1940s were a time of recovery and transformation in the aftermath of World War II. Society was yearning for renewal and a return to elegance and sophistication. Fashion and fragrance were pivotal in this cultural renaissance, offering a sense of hope and a connection to beauty. Marcel Rochas, a visionary in the fashion world, understood the importance of capturing this sentiment in his creations. His decision to launch Mousseline during this period reflects a desire to encapsulate the essence of refinement and femininity that people were eager to embrace once more.

Marcel Rochas's choice of the name "Mousseline" for his perfume is a nod to both historical and artistic influences. The term "mousseline" refers to a delicate, lightweight fabric often used in fine garments, particularly during the Victorian era. This fabric is known for its sheer quality and gentle, flowing drape, evoking images of ethereal elegance and romanticism. By naming the perfume Mousseline, Rochas cleverly bridged the worlds of fashion and fragrance, reinforcing his status as a master of style and innovation. The name conjures an image of soft, luxurious fabric, hinting at the light, airy nature of the scent itself.

"Mousseline" is a French term for a type of muslin fabric, characterized by its fine, lightweight texture. The word itself derives from "Mosul," a city in present-day Iraq, where the fabric was originally traded. In the context of a perfume, "Mousseline" implies a fragrance that is delicate, transparent, and sophisticated, much like the fabric it is named after. The choice of this name suggests a scent that is subtle yet captivating, appealing to those who appreciate understated elegance and timeless beauty. It evokes a sense of grace and refinement, perfectly aligning with the post-war desire for a return to classicism and subtle luxury.