In 1939, the year Etourdissant by Jean Desprez was launched, the world was on the brink of profound change. Europe was descending into the chaos of World War II, marking a tumultuous period of uncertainty and shifting societal norms. Despite the looming conflict, the world of fashion and fragrance continued to thrive as an escape and expression of luxury and elegance.
Jean Desprez's choice of the name "Etourdissant" for his perfume carries significant meaning. "Etourdissant" is a French word that translates to "dazzling" or "bewildering" in English. It derives from the verb "étourdir," which means "to dazzle" or "to stun." This choice of name reflects a desire to capture attention and evoke a sense of awe and wonder, qualities highly sought after in a perfume during this glamorous era.
In the context of 1939, "Etourdissant" would have been a bold and evocative name for a perfume. It speaks directly to the desire for opulence and allure amidst the uncertainty of the times. Those who related to a perfume called "Etourdissant" would likely be individuals seeking escape from the harsh realities of war, drawn to the promise of luxury and the transformative power of fragrance.
The name "Etourdissant" suggests images of brilliance and splendor, conjuring visions of shimmering lights, sparkling jewels, and dazzling soirées. It evokes feelings of enchantment and glamour, transporting wearers to a world of sophistication and allure. For those experiencing the perfume, it would likely inspire a sense of fascination and admiration, perhaps offering a brief respite from the challenges of the day.
In summary, launched in 1939, Etourdissant by Jean Desprez epitomizes the desire for luxury and escape amidst a world in turmoil. Its name, meaning "dazzling" in French, perfectly encapsulates the allure and opulence sought after during this glamorous era, appealing to those who sought to indulge in moments of beauty and extravagance.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a classic floral chypre fragrance for women, it was described as "startling". It begins with green note of galbanum, sparkling aldehydes and citrus, followed by a floral heart of Bulgarian rose and jasmine, resting on a classic mossy, powdery chypre base.
- Top notes: galbanum, aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, limette, geranium
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, spices, orange blossom, clary sage, orris, opoponax
- Base notes: styrax, vanilla, myrrh, vetiver, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli, civet, amber
La Femme Chic, 1945:
"For brunettes also (and even for very intense brunettes) the aptly named Etourdissant by Jean Desprez, based on Russian leather and chypre, which develops immediately and holds wonderfully. We recommend it for morning walks in the Bois and for cool weather."
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Stunning by Jean Desprez: extraordinary, unexpected, marvelous...this chypre fragrance contains a fairly strong note of gardenia and amber but which fades into the velvety mosses."
Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Etourdissant from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like.
I applied a few drops of the deep golden yellow extrait to my skin, and at first sniff, Etourdissant had a dry smoky opening highlighted with a sparkling aldehyde, and a twist of citrus essences of bergamot and sweet mandarin oranges. A soapy lily of the valley mixed with fresh geranium and very green galbanum followed with a floral heart of heady orange blossom, bubblegum jasmine and Bulgarian rose sprinkled with spices of cinnamon, dry coriander, nutmeg and clove. I detect the faintest traces of clary sage and orris hidden within. The powdery base features fuzzy oakmoss, myrrh, opoponax, balsamic notes of vanilla, styrax and labdanum punctuated with the woody notes of vetiver and earthy patchouli, this was layered over the creaminess of genuine Mysore sandalwood resting on animalic facets of natural musk, civet and precious ambergris.
This is a drop dead, fantastic vintage fragrance, so very hard to find, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!
Scent Story:
In the heart of Paris, under a night sky glittering with a thousand stars, the grand ballroom of a historic château comes alive with visions of shimmering lights, sparkling jewels, and dazzling soirées. The air is filled with a sense of brilliance and splendor, every corner echoing with laughter and the clinking of crystal glasses. As you step inside, you are immediately enveloped by the captivating aura of Etourdissant by Jean Desprez.
The first sensation is a burst of freshness that awakens your senses. The green note of galbanum greets you with its crisp, herbal intensity, mingling with the sparkling effervescence of aldehydes. This combination creates a sensation of cool, invigorating air, reminiscent of early spring mornings. The zesty brightness of bergamot and mandarin follows, their citrusy tang blending with the slightly bitter, lime-like note of limette, evoking images of an orchard bathed in sunlight. The subtle, rosy hint of geranium adds a touch of greenery and floral freshness, setting the stage for the unfolding splendor.
As you move deeper into the ballroom, the heart of the fragrance blossoms with an exquisite floral symphony. The rich, opulent scent of Bulgarian rose fills the air, its velvety petals exuding a deep, romantic allure. Jasmine, with its heady, sweet aroma, intertwines with the rose, creating a bouquet that is both intoxicating and elegant. The delicate sweetness of orange blossom adds a soft, creamy note, while the earthy, slightly spicy aroma of clary sage and the powdery, violet-like scent of orris root provide a sophisticated complexity. The resinous, balsamic nuances of opoponax add a warm, amber-like touch, enriching the floral heart with depth and richness.
As the night progresses, the fragrance settles into its classic chypre base, enveloping you in a warm, sensual embrace. The soft, powdery scent of oakmoss blends with the creamy, sweet warmth of vanilla and the rich, smoky undertones of myrrh. Vetiver adds a woody, earthy note, grounding the composition with its dry, grassy aroma. The musk and civet bring an animalic sensuality, while the sweet, resinous labdanum and the rich, woody notes of sandalwood and patchouli create a luxurious, lingering trail. Amber, with its golden warmth, ties everything together, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and sophistication.
In this enchanting setting, surrounded by visions of shimmering lights and sparkling jewels, the sensory experience of Etourdissant by Jean Desprez is nothing short of mesmerizing. The fragrance unfolds like a story, each note revealing a new chapter of brilliance and splendor, making you feel as if you are part of a timeless, dazzling soirée where every moment is infused with magic and allure.
The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:
"But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel, the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."
Book of Friendship, 1947:
"Jean Desprez Parfumeur, 17, rue de la Paix, Paris, presents its perfumes: ETOURDISSANT, VOTRE MAIN, JARDANEL, GRANDE DAME and its POUDRE DE BEAUTÉ for all seasons. Jean Desprez certifies all his perfumes to be imported from France. They are entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin."
Bottles:
Housed in various bottles, the most stunning presentation of Etourdissant by Jean Desprez is undoubtedly the exquisite Baccarat crystal flacon, designed to resemble a faceted crystal shard, reminiscent of a dazzling diamond. This bottle exudes luxury and sophistication, perfectly complementing the fragrance's opulent theme. Adding to its allure, the crystal flacon is typically displayed within a tripod stand crafted from translucent and green Lucite, a rare find that enhances the overall aesthetic. This stand not only supports the bottle but also elevates it to a pedestal of artistry and exclusivity, making it a coveted piece among collectors and connoisseurs of fine perfumery.
Modele Pratique:
The Modele Pratique bottle used for Etourdissant by Jean Desprez during the war period offers a practical yet elegant presentation. This original square French crystal flacon, topped with a ground glass stopper, served as the vessel for Etourdissant as well as other early Jean Desprez perfumes like Grande Dame, Jardanel, and Votre Main. This choice was likely influenced by the constraints of wartime, where the availability of more elaborate and expensive flacons was limited due to cost and supply restrictions.
The bottle features a distinctive paper label depicting the stunning Baccarat crystal flacon, designed to resemble a faceted crystal shard, similar to the luxurious presentation used in more prosperous times. The label also showcases the flacon nestled within a tripod stand crafted from translucent and green Lucite, enhancing its appeal with a touch of artistic elegance. The base of the box proudly declares the perfume's lineage: "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grande Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."
This Modele Pratique bottle not only reflects the practical considerations of its time but also preserves the essence of luxury and craftsmanship that defines Jean Desprez's renowned perfumes, making it a testament to both innovation and enduring elegance.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Etourdissant by Jean Desprez, a fragrance launched in 1939, has an intriguing history marked by its eventual discontinuation, the exact date of which remains unclear. Despite its discontinuation, Etourdissant continued to be available for purchase as late as 1950, indicating its enduring popularity and demand among perfume enthusiasts. This longevity in the market underscores the perfume's timeless appeal and the lasting impression it made within the fragrance industry during its active years.
The decision to discontinue Etourdissant, although shrouded in mystery regarding the precise timing, is reflective of the shifting trends and economic realities that often influence the fate of perfumes. Factors such as changing consumer preferences, evolving tastes in fragrance compositions, and broader market dynamics likely played a role in its eventual withdrawal from production. Despite this, its continued availability well into the 1940s and beyond suggests that Etourdissant maintained a loyal following and remained cherished by those who appreciated its distinctive blend and luxurious presentation.
For collectors and enthusiasts today, the knowledge that Etourdissant was still being sold in 1950 adds to its allure as a piece of olfactory history. It serves as a reminder of a time when perfumes were crafted with meticulous care and enjoyed by discerning individuals seeking elegance and refinement in their personal fragrance choices. The discontinued status of Etourdissant lends it an air of exclusivity, making vintage bottles prized possessions among collectors who cherish its legacy and the timeless allure it represents.
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